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  1. #801
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    The Koozer hub lasted only 2 months for me. Now the ratchet spins freely inside the hub shell.
    I've bought it from aliexpress and don't have any warranty cards. According to Koozer there will be no warranty in my case.



    As I understand the aluminium thread of hub body was minced by the steel thread of the ratchet.

    Whet it was working I really liked it. 72POE is the thing and really helps.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    72POE is the thing and really helps.
    So invest in a king, hadley or I9 then.

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    So invest in a king, hadley or I9 then.
    Buying a $500 hub from an US company is against my life philosophy.

    Koozer actually replied to me quite quickly and are going to send me a new hub. They say that they see this type of problem for the first time. And I believe them - I weigh about 120kg geared up and tend to brake all kind of components much more often then everybody else around.

  4. #804
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    might make sense for you to use a hub with a larger ratchet ring (more contact area with the hub shell) or one without a threaded-in ratchet ring (xm470, dt swiss)

    or maybe just one with deeper threads if you can find it

    I like how he said "invest", by the way
    like it's gonna pay off

  5. #805
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    As a fellow clyde, the koozers are likly to keep going out on you. I kept deforming freehubs though the ratchet ring never gave out on me. I'm interested to see how the clydes do on the xm370 ring.

    Anyway, I have since moved to bike hub store / bitex hubs, and for a little extra coin theyre considerably more stout. Theyre not without thier problems, and I miss the extra POE the Koozers have (72 vs 54), but the BHS hubs are definitely stronger.

    But hey, if they can figure out how to make the koozers a bit more clyde friendly, I'd be back for sure.

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    As a fellow clyde, the koozers are likly to keep going out on you. I kept deforming freehubs though the ratchet ring never gave out on me. I'm interested to see how the clydes do on the xm370 ring.

    Anyway, I have since moved to bike hub store / bitex hubs, and for a little extra coin theyre considerably more stout. Theyre not without thier problems, and I miss the extra POE the Koozers have (72 vs 54),
    Bitex hubs are not perfect either.
    I've snapped an aluminium axle on Bitex hub. Replaced it with a steel one from Novatec.
    Then after another year the bearing shell on drive side became enlarged - i.e. the bearing itself is loose inside it's shell and can be removed with bare fingers. Fixed using a bearing fitting compound.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Bitex hubs are not perfect either.
    I've snapped an aluminium axle on Bitex hub. Replaced it with a steel one from Novatec.
    Then after another year the bearing shell on drive side became enlarged - i.e. the bearing itself is loose inside it's shell and can be removed with bare fingers. Fixed using a bearing fitting compound.
    I'm not saying they are perfect. In fact I mentioned that they're not without their problems. I had skipping due to weak pawl springs in mine. but I still feel they are build a bit more stout than the koozers were, and so far they've handled the punishment much better. For what its worth.

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Koozer actually replied to me quite quickly and are going to send me a new hub. They say that they see this type of problem for the first time. And I believe them - I weigh about 120kg geared up and tend to brake all kind of components much more often then everybody else around.
    Glad to hear that they are standing behind the product and replacing it under warranty. I just laced up my XM490 (this was the first time I ever attempted to build my own wheel!) and for obvious reasons stories like yours get me nervous about the long term reliability of the hub. Just as a reference: did you use this website to reach out to them: About us | REBORN INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT LIMITED ? Thanks!

  9. #809
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    I have a brand new in black koozer hub. 32h qr 135

    I can let go for $45 shipped if anyone wants. I went with bitex and thought I cancelled this but appatently he didn't get the message.

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by Szy_szka View Post
    Glad to hear that they are standing behind the product and replacing it under warranty. I just laced up my XM490 (this was the first time I ever attempted to build my own wheel!) and for obvious reasons stories like yours get me nervous about the long term reliability of the hub. Just as a reference: did you use this website to reach out to them: About us | REBORN INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT LIMITED ? Thanks!
    Yes, I've contacted them using the email address listed there.

    So I've just received the hub. They sent the whole hub by DHL and didn't asked to send the broken back. So far this is my best warranty experience with hubs.

    Also the seller from Aliexpress offered to send a replacement but I would have to pay for the shipping.

    On the other hand when I minced down internals of Hope Evo 2 hub I had to send it back (+€7) first. The whole process took more then a month.

  11. #811
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    Mine is now unlaced and going to my office as a liter paperweight. It's done and I'm really done, it's not even a viable backup anymore.

    It just doesn't roll well now. I'm not going to figure out why. It's not gritty, it has nice skf bearings. it just stopped rolling well. The pawls are beat, the shell is beat. I bet the axle bent.

  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Mine is now unlaced and going to my office as a liter paperweight. It's done and I'm really done, it's not even a viable backup anymore.

    It just doesn't roll well now. I'm not going to figure out why. It's not gritty, it has nice skf bearings. it just stopped rolling well. The pawls are beat, the shell is beat. I bet the axle bent.
    Quitter.

    Maybe turn it into a salt shaker?

  13. #813
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    4 months so far with the Koozer XM 470 and everithing is working fine. Some muddy rides doesnt afected so far, bearings spinning freely and a clean ratchet is what i saw when opened the freehub.

    About the sound, i compared the 470 vs Hope Pro 4 and measured the sound with an app and the results are very surprising. Koozers are 12 db louder than hopes, this damm hubs are noisy! so fans of loud hubs will be pleased. I think if your goal is to have a trustworthy hub without paying a big amount of money the koozers 470 are pretty ok, it seems to be that koozer have adressed some reliablity issues and they solved very well, of curse you dont have the ultra quick engagement, but 28t are pretty ok for many riders, maybe only on ultra technical sections you´ll find not so quick.

    Here you can see a video made by my self.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_okN8SxtcU

  14. #814
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    I've done a few rides on the dt ring drive knockoff version and it works fine. I have a lot of bikes and wheelsets so I can't put tons of time on it, but it looks like a solid design.

  15. #815
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    I need a louder hub than my old Hope for chasing bears off the trails, seriously.

    XM470 looks like it will work, has a skull on it to match the Yelli. Building up a set of 35mm id Kore Realm 35mm id hoops. (Modern bike has them for $40 a pop with the 7% code and free shipping btw).

    12db louder than a Hope is impressive. That should be twice as loud! Thanks for the info Bacalardo

    Last edited by Mr. Doom; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:03 PM.
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  16. #816
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    Soo in my desire to build a secondary wheel set, I came across this thread while looking for hubs. I made it halfway through and decided to purchase a set. Well, I have now read the whole thread and am starting to wonder if I made the right choice. On the plus side, I have an and extra set of reliable hubs that I can lace up still.

    I am 210 ride mostly XC with only 1-3 foot drops and jumps (which I rarely do) and I am not a pedal masher most of the time.

    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    Soo in my desire to build a secondary wheel set, I came across this thread while looking for hubs. I made it halfway through and decided to purchase a set. Well, I have now read the whole thread and am starting to wonder if I made the right choice. On the plus side, I have an and extra set of reliable hubs that I can lace up still.

    I am 210 ride mostly XC with only 1-3 foot drops and jumps (which I rarely do) and I am not a pedal masher most of the time.

    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?
    If you are comfortable with lacing wheels, I wouldn't hesitate to put them to use; for me, it's only about an hour of my time, and if I can get a year out of them, I'm happy. I have a set that have been on 3 different bikes now since early 2015, and are still in good shape... luckily I caught a bad freehub bearing pre-failure that was causing some flex, and I had to replace the thin plastic ring in the freehub, but they are otherwise fine. FWIW, I pound my bikes pretty good. Id go ahead and use them, maybe start off with some good bearings for insurance, especially in the freehub.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?
    If you usually don't brake components then you'll be fine.

    Unfortunelly I do brake everything quite oftent. Just yesterday I managed to crack freehub bearing and feehub itself after about 1.5 months of usage.
    It was the replacement hub that they sent to me.
    And I had exactly the same experience with Hope Evo 2 hub which was supposetly rated even for downhill. With Koozer it's a bit easy to deal with - they send replcements without asking you to send them the broken part.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171205_174642.jpg

    A couple of weeks before I cracked XT crankarm in half while climbing.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171005_084825.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171005_082619.jpg  


  19. #819
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    Those pics land somewhere between LOL and Holy Sh!t.

    I thought I was hard on my bikes. I see I have much to learn from you, master.

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    If you usually don't brake components then you'll be fine
    Lord have mercy, what exactly are you doing with that bike? Yeah, I don't break stuff often, looking at how most people who have broken these hubs ride, I am pretty easy on my bike.

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Those pics land somewhere between LOL and Holy Sh!t.

    I thought I was hard on my bikes. I see I have much to learn from you, master.
    That's exactly what I was thinking looking at the crank pic, lol.

  22. #822
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    I have a buddy who bought a set of the Poozers to try. The ratched ring broke free and started spinning inside the hub. Lasted a couple months at most.

    Total waste of Money.
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  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    I have a buddy who bought a set of the Poozers to try. The ratched ring broke free and started spinning inside the hub. Lasted a couple months at most.

    Total waste of Money.

    What kind of riding did he do? How heavy was he if you don't mind me asking?

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    What kind of riding did he do? How heavy was he if you don't mind me asking?
    He is 160-165 lbs
    Powerful for his weight I would say, but not a giant by any means.
    Most of the riding on them was flat prairie xc, and they broke on a trip to Deluth.
    The drive rings are not keyed - totall engineering mistake. They must be just bonded in. Considering a mtb'er generates the same torque as a small car, I'd say Poozer hubs are basically designed to fail. At lease the pawl and ratched style hubs.

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
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  25. #825
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
    Ouch, Oh well...... I can lace a wheel pretty easily and these are supposed to be the back up set. Plus i have a spare hub ready to go that will use the same spoke length. So I think i will give these a shot and see where it goes with the expectation of failure. I will just be sure to not use them when I absolutely need a reliable wheel set.

    Most of where I ride is well populated and never to far from the car....... The joys of living in Houston.

  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    He is 160-165 lbs
    The drive rings are not keyed - totall engineering mistake.
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    They must be just bonded in. Considering a mtb'er generates the same torque as a small car, I'd say Poozer hubs are basically designed to fail. At lease the pawl and ratched style hubs.
    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thank you for this. I'll be sure to hold on to this gem for future use.

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.



    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.



    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thanks for the clarification. Still... designed to fail! At least this version of the pooz.

    You will find also some companies to key their drive rings. Novatec does in their better hubs, like the Factor series for example.

    A few zipties on cassette and spokes is a neat idea. Still not going to be much fun through.
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  29. #829
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    factor hubs cost $200 or more per set
    haven't seen keyed ratchet rings in this price range (<=$100)

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.



    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.



    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thanks for the clarification. Still... designed to fail! At least this version of the pooz.

    You will find also some companies to key their drive rings. Novatec does in their better hubs, like the Factor series for example.

    A few zipties on cassette and spokes is a neat idea. Still not going to be much fun through.
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  31. #831
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    factor hubs cost $200 or more per set
    haven't seen keyed ratchet rings in this price range (<=$100)
    I was using as an example.
    I bought a set of new factors a while ago btw, for $120 usd to my door.
    In the last 6 months I've seen a good number of similar deals on nicer hubs.
    Crc has DT 350's for example, 36t,15x100 front 12x142 rear for around the $120 usd mark.

    If you aren't in a rush, better deals will pop up. You just have to watch for them.
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    had, you mean
    the rear 350s were probably gone in an hour

    yeah I bought a set myself once for less than that, but it was a one off deal as well, so not really something I can advise to someone as an alternative to hubs that are actually in stock somewhere

    btw, the RWS-style Koozers have keyed rings I think
    there were pictures on this thread a while ago

    only 3 tabs, but probably enough for most people
    not everyone is 220lbs and hucking 3ft drops in the bottom gear (and landing uphill)

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    had, you mean
    the rear 350s were probably gone in an hour

    yeah I bought a set myself once for less than that, but it was a one off deal as well, so not really something I can advise to someone as an alternative to hubs that are actually in stock somewhere

    btw, the RWS-style Koozers have keyed rings I think
    there were pictures on this thread a while ago

    only 3 tabs, but probably enough for most people
    not everyone is 220lbs and hucking 3ft drops in the bottom gear (and landing uphill)
    I think just a few keyed tabs is all you need.

    The 350's were up for a couple week - I was super surprised. After the first 3-4 days they upped the price on the rear hub by $20. I assume when things sell to quickly they must have something to cue a price increase.

    They were actually $99 for the rear and maybe $49 for front, Canadian. $20 off if you spend $149 because both were clearance marked! I suppose that makes them closer to $100 USD.

    I keep an eye out now every few days. I managed to pick up a DT 240s rear for super cheap recently - $140 usd. They were up for a couple weeks also.
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    You know the difference between rear 240s and 350 is basically the bearings (stainless vs regular) and a bit more weight shaving on the axle between the bearing stops, right?
    Manual lists different part numbers for the end caps and spacer as well but I fail to see how they're different

    oh yeah, and does anyone know if the framed part is threaded into the hub body or glued to it? I mean, neither is acceptable on a hub of this price, is it?

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -maxthonsnap20171208125509.png

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    You know the difference between rear 240s and 350 is basically the bearings (stainless vs regular) and a bit more weight shaving on the axle between the bearing stops, right?
    Manual lists different part numbers for the end caps and spacer as well but I fail to see how they're different

    oh yeah, and does anyone know if the framed part is threaded into the hub body or glued to it? I mean, neither is acceptable on a hub of this price, is it?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Indeed I do know, yes. I'd never pay the MSRP difference to get a set of 240's. But, when they are on super sale and the difference is small, why the heck not? the bearings in the 240's are some of the best in the business. Smoother longer lasting bearings and marginally lighter...not a bad thing.

    The axle configuration in the two is slightly different. The 240's can be converted in some cases. 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 for instance, and end caps play a part in that. The 350 is a dedicated standard which cannot be converted.

    Back to the Poozers. The big draw seems to be 72POE for cheap, but I'd rather less engagement and more reliability. If I were building a budget wheel, or backup set, I'd grab some XT hubs, disassemble, fill with a quality grease, and reassemble properly. I know cup/cone put some people off, but properly packed and assembled, they roll super smooth and are actually pretty tough - more so that most non-contact cartridge bearings found in the vast majority of modern hubs. Total cost, about $80-90 bucks for a set.
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    and 3 xt hubs will get you 72 POE, or more
    now to figure out a way to put them in one wheel

  37. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    If I were building a budget wheel, or backup set, I'd grab some XT hubs, disassemble, fill with a quality grease, and reassemble properly. I know cup/cone put some people off, but properly packed and assembled, they roll super smooth and are actually pretty tough - more so that most non-contact cartridge bearings found in the vast majority of modern hubs.
    The koozer freehub lasted much longer than any shimano deore/slx/xt I've ever had. I couldn't disagree with you more about XT being a good budget hub.

  38. #838
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    and 3 xt hubs will get you 72 POE, or more
    now to figure out a way to put them in one wheel
    Current XT hubs are 36T. That's actually not horrible.
    Again, for me, at that price point I'd prefer reliability over fast pick-up.

    And for reference, I like high POE hubs and have ridden/own some of the best - but I would just rather not feel my hub is a ticking time-bomb.

    It's totally cool if you own Koozers and love them. You are entitled to you opinion, and if you guys have had good experience with them I'm HAPPY to hear it - I wouldn't wish busted equipment on anyone. But, as you are entitled to you opinion, so am I - and as a fairly experienced wheel builder who's seen them fail in person, it's hard to me to see them positively. I'd never lace them for someone, but I'd have no issue lacing up a set of m8000 xt's - the only caveat being that I would tear them down and make sure things were up to spec before sending them out the door. Not really a luxary you are afforded with Koozers.
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  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    The koozer freehub lasted much longer than any shimano deore/slx/xt I've ever had. I couldn't disagree with you more about XT being a good budget hub.
    Have you used the current gen m8000 hubs? Or current gen m9000 xtr?

    They are actually quite good, if you can take five minutes to learn to properly maintain them.

    You'll also find pretty good reviews of the current xt and xtr wheelsets, with positive commentary on the hubs if you look.

    I've seen lots of failure in deore/lx/slx/xt in the past too, but not much in the current generation xt however. Much of this was from people not maintaining the hubs properly. Often they come out of the factory poorly adjusted and with very little grease.

    That said, you look like a burly man as I scroll through your posts, and I gather you're going to be hard on just about any hub. If money were a non-issue, I'd say Onxy hubs would be a great fit.
    • 2015 Kona Explosif Ti
    • 2015 Kona Process 111
    • 2016 Banshee Rune
    • 2017 Canfield Riot

  40. #840
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    Im one of the rare few that reliability use shimano hubs. Im also one of the not-rare many that busted a koozer

    I personally like shimano hubs. Ive seen so many failures for other people that its pretty hard to recommend them anymore, I dont know what the deal with the discrepancy is, but it is what it is.

  41. #841
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    Still no reports of failure of the (ratchet) 470's?
    ps My 490 rear hub is still flawless after 2 years of hard use at 170 lbs. Almost makes me nervous.

  42. #842
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    Not as many people bought them. We learned our lesson!

    At 72poe, it was worth taking a risk. At 28poe, it's just another low quality Asian hub.

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