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  1. #201
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    now this is the bearing that I'm trying to remove

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -12.jpg

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    now this is the bearing that I'm trying to remove

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So, if I'm correct, the axle has a flange in the middle. You would use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the axle and one side bearing should pop out. Repeat for the other side. The video links below were sent to me by "Matt" that works for Reborn (company that makes these hubs).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oct-egH6CKs
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cqPeEcYHoY

  3. #203
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    thanks poopshute.. will check out the links, do i really need to remove the spokes and rims before i can remove the inner bearings?

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    thanks poopshute.. will check out the links, do i really need to remove the spokes and rims before i can remove the inner bearings?
    Lol... nope! You can do this w/out completely blowing up your wheel. The basic idea is to make sure the Axle is free and has room to "slide out" with the bearing. A vice that's not compressed all the way is a good tool for the job. Use different size sockets from a socket wrench set and the same rubber mallet to press new bearings into place.

    Again, I'm not completely sure this is how the bearings come out but from first glance of my hub, it appears to be the only way. There's nothing threaded on the axle so it has to simply be held in by the pressed bearings.

  5. #205
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    will try removing the inner bearings if ever rain started pouring down, while it is not raining, i'll go out and use the other bike... thanks for the quick reply.. i really appreciate it..

  6. #206
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    now this link that you gave me seems to be the best match for the koozer hubs 6 pawls

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oct-egH6CKs

  7. #207
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    this link also looks like a good guide

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpjSclC0STQ

  8. #208
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    The second one you posted is a slightly different design where the entire axle comes out with the freehub. The first link is more inline with the design of our hubs.

  9. #209
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    Would you mind providing a quick how-to on how you removed the bearings from the freehub body? Also, when you get the bearings out of the hub, can you let us all know how it went?

    Planning on upgrading my bearings next season.

  10. #210
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    hi all

    just found out about this hubs, and I will like to know if anyone has use them for Freeride or Downhill?

    also, how are holding up the ones around? any problems with them?

    thanks a lot

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by leon78 View Post
    hi all

    just found out about this hubs, and I will like to know if anyone has use them for Freeride or Downhill?

    also, how are holding up the ones around? any problems with them?

    thanks a lot
    There's quite a few of using these hubs and no one has posted any issues so far. I ride aggressive XC that leans very much in the AM category. Lots of climbing and I tend to hit/jump over obstacles instead of ride around them on my 26er. Had a bee minor crashes as well. Both the hub and the new wheel build (I'm only rocking the rear) are holding up great.

    I don't know what makes a hub downhill compliant but I can tell you these hubs come in QR and 15mm (front)/142x12 (rear) through axles designs. The axle is also aluminum.


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  12. #212
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -asdf.jpgayt here are some pics, took me several hours to complete the task as i wanna take my time and be careful with the bearings and hubs.. will test ride the bike next time

    i forgot to take a picture of the retainer ring, like a washer on the axle ratchet side, you have you use thin metal to pry it out

    1. remove the end caps by using 2 pcs 5mm allen key ( i think it was 5mm )
    2. pull out the free hub body by doing counter clockwise motion
    3, remove the bearings on the freehub body, just, toggle the spacer and gently tap the bearing and it will fall off
    4. remove the retainer or washer like metal ring on the axle you can check both sides to be sure, but i removed the one on the ratchet side
    5. use rubber mallet gently tap the axle, i chose to hit the rotor side first, once out use the axle to remove the 4th bearing

    now i used different kinds of sockets from my socket wrench set, and a threaded rod to act as a press tool, cost me $1 USD

    havn't tried riding my bike, since i also removed BB, cranks, pulley, rotors, rollers, general check up and clean up after a grueling ride on the mountain, trails, mud, heavy rain..

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11732042_10153459001844431_1908019021040225626_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11741040_10153459007424431_3676314459789042173_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11754936_10153459012284431_6875684105960859037_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11792136_10153459010884431_4547933318077910118_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794302_10153459014054431_400056152450664767_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794382_10153459017189431_3905463602681630234_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794488_10153459003954431_3935853902128435372_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11807147_10153459015789431_5805527995102833205_o.jpg

  13. #213
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    the first picture with the red circle like line, that was the retainer that you need to remove, really hard to notice the ring

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    So you will have to give us a ride report after you have ridden with the new bearings. Wondering if it would be worth it to just replace the bearings right off with something like SKF or NAICHI bearings (they really don't cost all the much on eBay).

  15. #215
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    Thanks for the pics and write-up. I have a few questions that hopefully you can clarify:

    1.). When you say "toggle spacer" and gently tap the freehub body, are you saying to just remove the loose spacer ring and then tap the freehub body itself on a hard surface to let the bearings fall out? Are they not pressed in?

    2.). You mention a retainer ring on the axle. Will the ring dislodge itself when you use a mallet against the axle to force the bearings out? Meaning, is there really a need to remove this ring prior to tapping the axle with a mallet?

    Thanks again for posting your tear down. This is going to help a lot of people here!


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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So you will have to give us a ride report after you have ridden with the new bearings. Wondering if it would be worth it to just replace the bearings right off with something like SKF or NAICHI bearings (they really don't cost all the much on eBay).
    yup will definitely give a report or update after my test ride, but all i can say is that the axle moves smoothly when i tried spinning it by hand, unlike before i can really feel that the bearings were like rough and somewhat like grinding..

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Thanks for the pics and write-up. I have a few questions that hopefully you can clarify:

    1.). When you say "toggle spacer" and gently tap the freehub body, are you saying to just remove the loose spacer ring and then tap the freehub body itself on a hard surface to let the bearings fall out? Are they not pressed in?

    2.). You mention a retainer ring on the axle. Will the ring dislodge itself when you use a mallet against the axle to force the bearings out? Meaning, is there really a need to remove this ring prior to tapping the axle with a mallet?

    Thanks again for posting your tear down. This is going to help a lot of people here!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    step # 3 is to toggle the spacer or move the spacer so you can see the inner ring of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing, i used long allen key to pry it out, i don't intend to use the old bearings to for me it is okay to tap on the inner ring of the bearing


    retainer / ring - i think you will have a hard time if you use axle to force the bearings out without removing the retainer or ring

    i just wish that i can record or video shoot the process, but i don't have a digital cam only a xiaomi phone, and got no one to help me out with the video shoot

    the next time i hit the trails, will definitely open up the hubs and shoot a video

    +++++++++++++++

    now my problem is the front hub, this one i think is much harder, as i can't remove both end caps

    the axle doen't have hex key slot or can't use allen keys to act as a counter for you to remove the next end cap

    OR DO I JUST remove one end cap and use mallet??

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotdurt View Post
    Success! Koozer 9mm QR fr hub converted to 15mm thru-axle via Stan's end caps...

    Attachment 995473

    All that was needed was a few seconds each on the flat side of the grinder (maybe .5mm each), and they slipped right into the fork. The OD of the o-ring is *slightly* small so they will come out of the bore under their own weight dry, but a touch of grease holds them well. A slightly thicker o-ring could also do the trick, if it isn't too much. Either way, they'll do the job until Koozer comes out with the kit.
    @gotdurt

    did you do just a direct install with the stans endcaps onto the hub? Did you change out the axle?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    step # 3 is to toggle the spacer or move the spacer so you can see the inner ring of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing, i used long allen key to pry it out, i don't intend to use the old bearings to for me it is okay to tap on the inner ring of the bearing


    retainer / ring - i think you will have a hard time if you use axle to force the bearings out without removing the retainer or ring

    i just wish that i can record or video shoot the process, but i don't have a digital cam only a xiaomi phone, and got no one to help me out with the video shoot

    the next time i hit the trails, will definitely open up the hubs and shoot a video

    +++++++++++++++

    now my problem is the front hub, this one i think is much harder, as i can't remove both end caps

    the axle doen't have hex key slot or can't use allen keys to act as a counter for you to remove the next end cap

    OR DO I JUST remove one end cap and use mallet??
    Are you sure the end camp is threaded on? My 142x12 rear has end caps that are simply held on by small washers. The QR holds everything together.


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  20. #220
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    Anyone have info regarding XD drivers for this hub? Any other brands (Novatec) have one that might be compatible?
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
    Providing unrivaled support and unbeatable pricing on all cycling goods to riders near and far.

  21. #221
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    Looks like the bearings are the exact same used by DT Swiss, found that you can buy a set of bearings for a DT Swiss hub rebuild for about $15. Not sure if they are better than SKF/Nachi/etc. bearings but thought that was interesting.

    Pretty sure I am going to pick one of these up this fall and build it into a wider rim (possibly a 27.5+ rim for my 29er). If I do I will plan to replace the bearings first off.

  22. #222
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    @Forcemajeure

    I couldnt find why you changed the bearings in the first place. Had they given out or did you just change to better quality bearings preemptively?

    Cheers

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Are you sure the end camp is threaded on? My 142x12 rear has end caps that are simply held on by small washers. The QR holds everything together.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'am also not sure, but i think you are right the end caps on the front hub is not locked on the hub, only on the axle, so if i remove the other end cap, i could just gently hammer out the axle and it should be ok.. will re-check if my front bearings need some replacement

    i think the only need to be regrease or check if there's any dirt or anything that gives a rough spin, i just tried spinning the axle after our trail ride and it is really hard to spin, but i appliead some grease and will check next time

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    @Forcemajeure

    I couldnt find why you changed the bearings in the first place. Had they given out or did you just change to better quality bearings preemptively?

    Cheers
    i forgot my reason why i wanted to change the bearings..

    a short story.. bought the koozer september 2014 been using them on roads and light trails..

    now come july 26, i used them on heavy trails, dh, mud, rain and everything..

    I checked my bike and hubs the next day, and found out that the axle on rear and front hubs are quite hard to spin by hand..

    so went on and opened up rear hub, found some dirt, sand, water on the hub..
    tried spinning the axle and it was a lil bit rough not really smooth..

    i think the old bearings can still be used, but we ride on no bail out zones, can't afford to lose a bearing while riding

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Determinants View Post
    I need information about shops here in Philippines who sell koozer hubs.
    Nabili ko yung saakin s "wiley's bikeshop"(search mo nlng s FB) pwede meet-up s sta. Cruz church 4.5k lng

  26. #226
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    Just laced a rear koozer 72 POE QR to a carbonbicycle rim. Used sapim laser and brass nipples. Total weight is 810 grams before taping.

    It sounds, sweeeeeezzzztttt!! Wheel feels great. Havent had a chance for a real test ride yet.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -dsc_5787.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -dsc_5783.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -img_3787.jpg

  27. #227
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    had a small ride with the koozer new bearings on rear hubs, ride was only at 10kms on road only

    and i think it runs well, rear hub still smooth, but will try them out next time on trails

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Looks like the bearings are the exact same used by DT Swiss, found that you can buy a set of bearings for a DT Swiss hub rebuild for about $15. Not sure if they are better than SKF/Nachi/etc. bearings but thought that was interesting.

    Pretty sure I am going to pick one of these up this fall and build it into a wider rim (possibly a 27.5+ rim for my 29er). If I do I will plan to replace the bearings first off.
    This is just my opinion but if you're going to replace the bearings, why not go with something nicer like an Enduro ceramic bearing? They're double the cost but will perform better. Just my $.02.

  29. #229
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    Also... normal store bought mineral oil doesn't stay put in these hubs. I had the fluid leak out after one ride. Sure, some of the oil staid on the pawls but over the counter mineral oil is too light. Trying Dumonde Tech freehub oil. Hope this stuff works as it's pricey!

  30. #230
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    for me I'm using top 1 synthetic lithium hi-temp grease as BB, hub, headset lubricant

  31. #231
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    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?

    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Finished building a set for a friend, red koozer hubs, sapim race, stans arch. Here are some pics and hub sound video.

    Attachment 983828

    Attachment 983829

    Attachment 983830

    Attachment 983831

    https://www.facebook.com/uberwheels/...type=3&theater

    Cheers

  32. #232
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    Spokes and nipples go through Dans Comp for single cut, single purchase ability. Comp style spokes are common but heavier but also easiest to build with.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmdog View Post
    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?
    In my research, I found that DT Swiss comp spokes are the go-to spokes for wheel builds. They make chrome and black. Maybe get DT Swiss comp spokes and red nipples from a different source (like Dans Comp)? Sorry I don't have size information. I had a local shop build my wheel for me.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    This is just my opinion but if you're going to replace the bearings, why not go with something nicer like an Enduro ceramic bearing? They're double the cost but will perform better. Just my $.02.
    Right but I have not found anything in my limited research that suggests that they are markedly better than a quality steel ball version for justification in the price. Plus I am not a weight weenie so the slight increase in weight is nothing I am concerned about. Granted I haven't done a whole lot of research but in this type of application there really isn't a "need" for ceramic ball bearings at close to/or more than the cost of a quality steel.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Right but I have not found anything in my limited research that suggests that they are markedly better than a quality steel ball version for justification in the price. Plus I am not a weight weenie so the slight increase in weight is nothing I am concerned about. Granted I haven't done a whole lot of research but in this type of application there really isn't a "need" for ceramic ball bearings at close to/or more than the cost of a quality steel.
    Word... Each to his own. I'm sure the bearings you buy will be sufficient.


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  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Word... Each to his own. I'm sure the bearings you buy will be sufficient.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    So I am curious, why do you feel that the ceramic bearings would be better? Like I said, I have not done a whole lot of research on it but I am curious as to your opinion why they are worth double the cost?

  37. #237
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    same here i want to switch to ceramic bearings on hubs and BB but i can't find any seller in philippines

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmdog View Post
    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?
    When you get those bad boys built up post the pics, specs and the weights if you could. I'm considering the exact same setup.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So I am curious, why do you feel that the ceramic bearings would be better? Like I said, I have not done a whole lot of research on it but I am curious as to your opinion why they are worth double the cost?
    I come from a roller hockey background. Each wheel used a pair of cartridge bearings and we tried to get the highest ABEC rating possible with the least friction possible. Back then ceramic bearings were just being introduced and were not affordable. With inline skates, you could feel the difference in high quality low friction bearings vs. cheapos. I'm just using that experience and translating it to the biking world. I want my wheels to spin as smooth and fast as possible. Investing a few bucks more for bearings I'll keep around for a while (with proper maintenance) is worth it to me.

    I installed an enduro ceramic BB a year ago and my crank free-spin was night and day compared to the stock shimano BB.

    But, would you feel a difference let alone care? Totally up to you. I'm a techy-gadget guy. Like the latest and greatest as long as it's within my budget.


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  40. #240
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    less maintenance for ceramic bearings.. and rust proof, my vote goes to ceramic as well

  41. #241
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    Ok see what I was read was that the ABEC rating only really applies to super high rpm situations. This is something that what I was reading is more for high speed machinery or vehicles, not bikes.

    With the advancements in technology the ABEC 3/5 bearing that are steel are same surface consistency as ceramic bearings. But yes the ceramic do not rust, but for me I do not live in a super wet area for riding.


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  42. #242
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    Bike hub store has the MTB180 / MTB270 Disc Hubset 15mm thru and 12x142 on sale now for $135 & free shipping...any opinions on these?

  43. #243
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    There's an active thread about the BHS hubs Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs
    I have 2 rides on my BHS mtb270. So far so good, nice hub.

  44. #244
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    $135 for the BHS hubs is a great price. I've got both, posted my opinion in this thread: Koozer vs BHS. I will add that the Koozer is a hell of a lot louder than the BHS MTB270.

  45. #245
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    koozer 6 pawls much louder than my Circus Monkey HDW3

  46. #246
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    i replaced my front hub bearing a week ago and, all i need to do is remove i end cap, use rubber mallet to hammer down the axle and was able to remove them without issues,

    same method on installing new bearings, i used d.i.y bearing press, same size of bearings

    bearings on freehub body does have a different size

  47. #247
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    does anyone know the koozers weight?
    they looks very interesting

  48. #248
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    I measured 201 g front, 304 g rear for the QR versions, without skewer.

  49. #249
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    thanks

  50. #250
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer-hub-ha02n-ha04n-mtb-bicycle-hub-keanho-1508-15-keanho%402.jpg

    koozer's weight with skewers

  51. #251
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    Ah,bummer, I see the 142x12 thru axle hub is NOT 6-pawls 72 POE but only 3-pawls

    Koozer 72HD HA02N HA04N Hubs CNC Aluminum 2 4 Bearing 32h Through Axle QC Hub | eBay

    Other sellers don't mention it... anyone has the thru axle version?

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Ah,bummer, I see the 142x12 thru axle hub is NOT 6-pawls 72 POE but only 3-pawls

    Koozer 72HD HA02N HA04N Hubs CNC Aluminum 2 4 Bearing 32h Through Axle QC Hub | eBay

    Other sellers don't mention it... anyone has the thru axle version?
    Try this one (seller Revmega).

  53. #253
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    bearings on koozer hubs much easier to replace than the circus monkey hdw3

  54. #254
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    Just got a reply from revmega that the thru axle hubs are convertible to QR. If anybody is interested.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by drakche View Post
    Just got a reply from revmega that the thru axle hubs are convertible to QR. If anybody is interested.
    good to know.
    does the conversion involve a different axle or just endcaps? and do they sell a conversion kit? can't see it listed.

  56. #256
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    just endcaps. 10$, they are not listed. you need to contact him and pay the 10$ separately, and he will ship them

    Also spare freehubs are 20$.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by drakche View Post
    just endcaps. 10$, they are not listed. you need to contact him and pay the 10$ separately, and he will ship them

    Also spare freehubs are 20$.
    ah... too late, he already shipped my hub. may have asked before

  58. #258
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    you can contac him and he will ship ou adaptors only

  59. #259
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    thnx, will do if i'll need them

  60. #260
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    Ok so had my Koozer hub now for awhile built to Arch EX rims. It engagement is amazing very impressed. Bit heavier than my DT240, louder and bearings not as smooth. I think if you changed out bearings on the Koozer to some higher end bearings of think it is a great hub for the money and can't be beat. I will upgrade to SKF bearings when mine need replacement otherwise just ride it for now.

  61. #261
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    I learned today that a batch of 12x142 hubs received axles with an incorrect ID tolerance (less than 12mm). I contacted Matt/Revmega and he had a replacement hub sent my way same day. I'm thoroughly impressed by both the hub and customer service! It's a real eye opener that Reborn is able to turn a profit on these hubs after both ebay fees and shipping from China!
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  62. #262
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    I sent a email to Revmega. I wanted to see if he sold 12x142mm end caps. He told me you can't go from QR to 12x142mm, But only 12x142mm to QR. But the newer hubs should be able too.

  63. #263
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    For those that have had the rear hubs for a while, how are they holding up for you? I had an obnoxious creak develop a couple of weeks ago, coming from the rear of the bike under load... checked all of the pivots, looked for cracks in the frame, etc and eliminated the frame as the problem... don't see any obvious external cracks in the hub body, but I swapped wheels with my other bike and the creak followed the wheel, with no creaks on the original bike now. The 2nd bike is a single speed, so it wasn't in the cassette, and I didn't see any visible external issues on the freehub when switching. I guess the next thing will be to tear the hub down when I have time and see if I can find anything, meanwhile I'll continue to ride it in hopes that it becomes a little worse and thus more visible. Maybe I'll get lucky and find that it's a bearing issue...

    Anyway, hoping maybe if any others are experiencing the same/similar problem, we might be able to nail it down.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  64. #264
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    You might have loose spokes on the rear wheel.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    You might have loose spokes on the rear wheel.
    That was actually the first thing I checked when I moved on to the rear wheel, but all was good; it doesn't sound like a typical spoke pop/creak though.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  66. #266
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    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by niel.evangelista@gma View Post
    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle
    I think they had the 15mm front thru axle for awhile now.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by niel.evangelista@gma View Post
    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle
    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    I think they had the 15mm front thru axle for awhile now.
    Correct. In all colors too. They've had 15mm versions for quite some time now. Just ordered and received a red one myself. My rear 142x12 6-pawl version is still going strong after a full Summer of riding 3-times a week. Impressive for the cost. Love them so far!

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Correct. In all colors too. They've had 15mm versions for quite some time now. Just ordered and received a red one myself. My rear 142x12 6-pawl version is still going strong after a full Summer of riding 3-times a week. Impressive for the cost. Love them so far!

    Sorry .my bad... is it good for AM or aggressive ride?? Coz the 9qr one say its for XC ...i'm planning to put it on our giant trance

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by niel.evangelista@gma View Post
    Sorry .my bad... is it good for AM or aggressive ride?? Coz the 9qr one say its for XC ...i'm planning to put it on our giant trance
    I ride my trail bike pretty damn hard. I would consider my riding style aggressive XC and a little AM. I tend to go through/over things instead of ride around them. Tend to bottom out my suspension and all that jazz. Anyways, after a few crashes, the rear hub is still holding up great. I have to muscle up some semi-technical stuff too and the hub has never slipped or given way. I'm very impressed for now. The hubs are very easy to service as well. Everything comes apart very logically and replacement bearings are easy to obtain. For the price, it's kind of a no-brainer. You can buy multiple backup-ups of the Koozer hubs for the price you'd pay for one mid-high end hub... not that you'd need to.

  71. #271
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    I was going to grab a set of these hubs to build up a wheelset for my cx bike but it doesn't look like they are shimano 11spd compatible yet?

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by iheartoregon View Post
    I was going to grab a set of these hubs to build up a wheelset for my cx bike but it doesn't look like they are shimano 11spd compatible yet?
    Shimano 11sp is the same freehub body as 9/10.

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    Shimano 11sp is the same freehub body as 9/10.
    11s mtb (11-40 or 42 cassette) is the same, but 11s road cassettes (up to 11-32) will not mount on 9/10s freehub body.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    11s mtb (11-40 or 42 cassette) is the same, but 11s road cassettes (up to 11-32) will not mount on 9/10s freehub body.
    Yeah, I missed the whole CX part of it LOL.

  75. #275
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    I have now logged about 500kms on my rear koozer hub. I have ridden it in the wet, sandy, muddy, dry etc. conditions and several creek crossings (with water level below the hub) and it has operated smoothly so far. I decided to take the hub apart today after a 70 km ride to see how everything was looking. I am very happy with what I saw.

    The negatives: Some scoring due to the cassette digging in. This can be prevented by using a higher quality cassette (xt). I had to pry (carefully) a couple of the cogs off with a screwdriver.

    The good: Grease on the pawls and over the bearings looks very clean. There was no sign of water or dirt under the seals. The pawls look in very good condition. Bearings still spinning very smoothly. Smoother than when new actually. Internal seals look very good. No play on the freehub body, or anywhere else. The hub appears to be very well sealed.

    Some scoring on the freehub body by cheap cassette (deore)
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer-500km.jpg

    Pawls in perfect condition as far as I can tell.
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer2-500km.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer3-500km.jpg

    Grease clean and clear. No water or dirt contamination.
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer4-500km.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer5-500km.jpg

    Except for the second picture of the zoomed pawl, all were taken before cleaning. Since I had taken it apart, I decided to go ahead and clean the grease an applied some phil wood oil. Now the angry bees have quieted down :-(

    Cheers

  76. #276
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    Question regarding 10 speed cassetee

    I was wondering if I can use 10 speed cassette on this hub and more specifically for the 40-11 set(17T replacing cog). I will be buying it soon Thanks!

  77. #277
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    it is possible for the 10spd for the 11spd not really sure

  78. #278
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    yes you can use 10 speed and shimano mtb 11 speed.

  79. #279
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    That's great! Thanks! I'm still debating on whether i should get Sram X9 or this hub. But I don't like the idea of 12 POE. Don't know if the Koozer is gonna stand my type of riding which is enduro/freeride

  80. #280
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    I currently am riding wtbi23 on x9 hubs. The x9 hubs have held up well for me with all mountain riding, and I weight 235lbs. With my gear. I am building a new wheel set and am considering this hub set also. I love the high engagement but durability is the most important factor for my build. I really can't see any bad feedback online but I would love some feed back from people that are putting these hubs through jumps, steeps, mud and everything else that is truly fun about mountain biking.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobdog31 View Post
    I currently am riding wtbi23 on x9 hubs. The x9 hubs have held up well for me with all mountain riding, and I weight 235lbs. With my gear. I am building a new wheel set and am considering this hub set also. I love the high engagement but durability is the most important factor for my build. I really can't see any bad feedback online but I would love some feed back from people that are putting these hubs through jumps, steeps, mud and everything else that is truly fun about mountain biking.
    Probably put over 1000 km's on mine this season, all trail riding, no maintenance, often riding in the pouring rain. Jumps, yes, steeps, yes. I try not to ride muddy trails, but they have seen a lot of dirty standing water.



    I'm 180 lb without gear, but they probably get more of a beating since it's a hardtail. Trail in the photo is Comfortably Numb descent in Whistler.

  82. #282
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    How are these hubs holding up for everyone? I saw they new have complete wheelsets but I don't know how good the rims are.

    Koozer XM 650B 27 5" MTB Wheelset Wheel 32h 72HD Click Noise 4 Bearings Hub Set | eBay

    Also has anyone built up a 27.5 (650B) wheel yet? I am thinking about getting these hubs with the nuke proof DH rims but I have no clue on spokes

    Nukeproof Generator 275 DH Rim 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles

  83. #283
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    no regrets on my Koozer hubs, yeah they are made in china, but so far still rolling

  84. #284
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    Mine spin great so far aswell. Seems drag has diminished more with use.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    I learned today that a batch of 12x142 hubs received axles with an incorrect ID tolerance (less than 12mm). I contacted Matt/Revmega and he had a replacement hub sent my way same day. I'm thoroughly impressed by both the hub and customer service! It's a real eye opener that Reborn is able to turn a profit on these hubs after both ebay fees and shipping from China!
    What issues did this produce? Was the through-axle not able to go through? How did you find out about this issue?

  86. #286
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    @forcemajeure hey nice to see you here too i see you often in pinoymtbiker.org, do you have any idea if the shops at manila already sell 12x142 rear hub versions?

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    @forcemajeure hey nice to see you here too i see you often in pinoymtbiker.org, do you have any idea if the shops at manila already sell 12x142 rear hub versions?
    zemper,

    sorry i dont have any idea about the 12x142, koozer in phils now cost a lot more,
    more demand i guess...

  88. #288
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    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.

  89. #289
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    Cool find KevinNZ! Looks new though, I doubt many would have had experience with this one. Lighter than the existing Koozers it seems.

    edit: darn, a 15TA + 12x142 set is about US $160. Kinda expensive for a relatively new product.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    Cool find KevinNZ! Looks new though, I doubt many would have had experience with this one. Lighter than the existing Koozers it seems.

    edit: darn, a 15TA + 12x142 set is about US $160. Kinda expensive for a relatively new product.
    Yeah, great find! I'm going to contact the seller to see if they ever plan on making a 32h version. If you (or anyone) picks one up, please do post feedback. A star ratchet/clutch version for that price is pretty killer! Looks like similar tech as a Chris King at a fraction of the cost.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    Just contacted a Reborn rep. 32 hole clutch/ratchet version will be coming out soon. It will utilize the conventional j-spoke holes which will be easier for a wheel builder to measure out spokes. Too bad I have a fairly new pawl version! Although, I couldn't be happier with the pawl version. It's still running strong.

  92. #292
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    Oh man, that's both good and bad news... currently trying to upgrade my stock 27.5 wheelset and torn between Koozer and Bitex hubs... J-spokes are good news as these are the most common spokes available here. hope that they make it soon, can't wait to build a proper 27.5 wheelset!!!

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    Oh man, that's both good and bad news... currently trying to upgrade my stock 27.5 wheelset and torn between Koozer and Bitex hubs... J-spokes are good news as these are the most common spokes available here. hope that they make it soon, can't wait to build a proper 27.5 wheelset!!!
    You'll definitely be a guinea pig with these new hubs. I'm sure they'll work great as this Chinese company is really trying to take a bite into the hub market. However, this new hub hasn't been tested much and their current 72 poe pawl version has been ridden by many people, myself included, with great results. I don't think you can go wrong with either version but you'll sure to be happy with their current version. If you do end up going with their ratchet/clutch version, please post up here!

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    No 32 holes for this new hub?

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    No 32 holes for this new hub?
    Lol. Dude. Read... Three to four posts up.

  96. #296
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    Is the mechanical clutch that big an upgrade compared to the pawls? I guess I don't ride hard enough to destroy my freehubs. Still, is it worth holding out for?

    I love the look of the straight pull hubs, but 24 spokes just isn't cutting it.

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Is the mechanical clutch that big an upgrade compared to the pawls? I guess I don't ride hard enough to destroy my freehubs. Still, is it worth holding out for?

    I love the look of the straight pull hubs, but 24 spokes just isn't cutting it.
    The whole idea behind the clutch/ratchet hubs is based around strength. Pawl versions usually have about half the pawls engaged at any given time (so 3 speaking of the Koozer hubs). With a clutch system, all "teeth" are engaged whenever you pedal. There's a VERY low chance of ever "spinning" a clutch/ratch hub. Ok, with that said, I ride my bike pretty hard. I weigh about 210 fully geared and haven't had a skip or a failure in my pawl version hub. Yeah, the clutch/ratchet system looks awesome and I may have held out for it if I hadn't already bought/installed/ridden the entire season the pawl version. Reborn (the people who make these hubs) state that the 32H version of the clutch hub will be a j-spoke design. I actually prefer that as the straight pull spokes are not readily available and the lengths are very specific to the hub dimensions. J-spokes are very readily available and sizes are fairly standard with a few measurements of the hub. I guess the straight-pull design is supposed to be stronger since there's no bend but with some high quality spokes like the DT-Swiss comp j-bend spokes, you should rarely (if ever) break a spoke unless you hit it super hard on something.

    I do agree that the straight pull design is pretty sweet looking.

  98. #298
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    Yeah, I googles and found http://www.rbn.hk/?lang=en and I knew what you meant by reborn rep. Did they give you any inkling as to the time frame or the price? I assume it going to be priced similarly to the straight pull version that's out now. The 93 dollar price point is what makes these things so appealing, but once you get close to doubling that, theres many other options, though none that include a mechanical clutch as far as I know.

    I hear the straight pull are a ***** to get started as well, since they just spin and spin and spin. Maybe in a few more years theyll become more prevalent...

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Yeah, I googles and found http://www.rbn.hk/?lang=en and I knew what you meant by reborn rep. Did they give you any inkling as to the time frame or the price? I assume it going to be priced similarly to the straight pull version that's out now. The 93 dollar price point is what makes these things so appealing, but once you get close to doubling that, theres many other options, though none that include a mechanical clutch as far as I know.

    I hear the straight pull are a ***** to get started as well, since they just spin and spin and spin. Maybe in a few more years theyll become more prevalent...

    If you look for the seller "revmega" on eBay, he's a legit Reborn rep. He goes by Matt. Contact him for any information. He didn't give me a timeframe but I also didn't push for one since I'm not really in the market to buy one. I do agree that I think the price will be close to what the 24h version is. There's no way they would sell as many of these hubs as they do if they were anywhere near the price of comparable hubs that can be bough in the US. I really don't see it being anywhere near $200. I'm assuming it'll be in the $120 ball park which for a clutch system hub is a pretty great deal. Even their 6 pawl 72poe hubs they currently sell for $60 is a really damn great bargain for what you get. A comparable hub with anything near 72 POE is going to cost you at least $150.

  100. #300
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    Wow, already a new hub and clutch design! And Japanese bearings. Never heard of them (EZO) but the Chinese NBK bearings are meh.

    Still waiting on a XD driver though. A couple weeks has turned into a couple months, oh well.
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