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  1. #1
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs

    First it was XT, then King, the DT 240s.
    And it has stayed DT 240s since 2003.
    My only regrets were selling some 240s on old bikes. Should have transplanted them to new bikes. They are too good to let go.

    But- they aint cheap. And they aint getting any cheaper.
    I'm buiding a knock off Asian CX frame (Miracle Bikes) so thought I'd recycle some bits, and find new cheap items for others. An experiment.
    I know what a DT hub does year after year after year. It works all the time. Press a new bearing or 2 in and you're good to go.

    But- they aint cheap.
    What hubs are cheap? Crappy hubs are cheap. And heavy. And not versatile.
    What hubs are cheap? Light? And can accomidate any axle I want?
    BikeHubStore.com hubs. Specifically the MTB270 and 180 (front/rear disc thru axle) hubs.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    How cheap? $60 for the front, $100 for the rear.
    A quick Google tells me that 240s are about $230/$330 for their F/R hubs.
    Oh- you work at a shop? Get a deal? That'll help take the edge off.

    How light? On my scale- 180g for the front, 285g for the rear. A bit heavier than the DTs. About 25g per pair. That's less than one ounce per a pair heavier. An iPhone 6 weighs about 4.5 ounces. Just a thought.

    One ounce is worth it, to me, to save so much $$. That $$ can pay gas to get me to a new area to pedal. It'll use the Amtrak to get me, GF, bikes, and gear to Canada.
    To me, it's worth it.

    Durability?
    Don't know yet. I do see that you could pull the cassette w/ free hub (6 paws, high engagement) to replace spokes on the drive side easily (if you were touring in some bizarre place).

    But I've taken them apart a bit, and there's really not that much to fail. Of course, flanges and hub shells can split and crack. Time will tell.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    If you see me limping along on the side of the road w/ a non-functioning Asian cheap part project under my arm, please pick me up.

    Not USA made, not bling, won't match your anodized nipples and headset. Won't impress your friends. No included sticker to put on your Sprinter van or VW TDI.
    But- seemingly a great cheap hub.

    Time will tell.
    Last edited by Johnny Chicken Bones; 02-10-2015 at 02:56 PM. Reason: to add photos
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  2. #2
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    Great review. Make sure you continually update this thread once built and spinning.

    Looks like they have pretty high engagement.

    Could be a great alternative if reliable.

  3. #3
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    Very interested to hear how they work out for you. BHS opened their shop location less than 5min from my house not too long ago - I've been meaning to go by there. I'm not giving up my Kings, but it might be a good low cost option to point people towards.

  4. #4
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    I bought these hubs at the beginning of the year, and I'm getting them put on a set of WTB rims. My LBS guy said "they look like Stan's hubs" and didn't have anything negative to say about them on first inspection. My build isn't done yet so I can't comment yet on how they ride, but they sure do look and feel better than the sram and xt hubs i've had before.
    Last edited by matadorCE; 02-10-2015 at 05:00 PM.

  5. #5
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    They will be laced up shortly to a pair of WTB Kom rims. Not sure if I'll lace w/ the tried and true DT Super Comp spoke or use the cheaper (in the spirit of this build) Pillar spokes.
    Then will be run tubless w/ WTB Nano 40s on a SS CX thru axle freak show build.

    Stans eh? Interesting. They seem similar to several makes. I'll need to study some STans hubs for comparison.
    Just had the F hub a bit apart Have no idea how I'd pop the bearings out to replace them. The R is pretty straight forward.
    Please keep us posted on your resutls, I'll do the same.
    JCB
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  6. #6
    Land of the 230+
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    I like your tone. but a sprinter? Not around these parts. They must have doubled up on TDIs.

    Anyway, Ive heard nothing but good things about those hubs. Good luck with them.

  7. #7
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    The BHS MTB270 is a sleeper...

    Fully convertible (12x142, QR, etc)
    SRAM XD compatible
    54POE
    278-285g
    $100

    Oh, and replacement freehubs are $45-50... vs $90 for DT

    BHS is a great company to work with and I've ended up very happy with every transaction I've had with them.

    To date I've bought:

    1 MTB180
    4 MTB270's

    I currently run MTB270's on the rear of both of my bikes (SRAM XD on one, 1x10 with Wolftooth 42T on the other)

    I have noticed that the MTB270's freehub is 'harder' than other freehubs I've used in the past. It's still alloy, so a SRAM cassette will dig in, but they survive better than other freehubs I've used.

    I'd definitely recommend XT cassettes for the MTB270 (and really any alloy freehub).
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  8. #8
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    Just did a search for Stans hub info. Definitely similar but not quite the same but I only looked at the 3.3 hub.
    I'd love to know any other brands that these are sold under. Please don't tell me they are the same as American Classic.....
    Even if AC have improved, I don't want to relive a complete failure on the Maah Daah Hey in 2004.
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  9. #9
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    They are Bitex MTR12 and MTF 15/20
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  10. #10
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    Oh, and they use Enduro bearings
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  11. #11
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    I've got a couple of the MTB270 myself and there the best hub out there for a 100 bucks...here's the cassette at 1500ish miles
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-bhs-hubs-service-2000mile-001.jpg

  12. #12
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    Bitex! Definitly.
    From a quick search they are identical.
    Are there any other makes slapping their stickers on the Bitex hubs?

    A sleeper. Well said. That seems very accurate.

    The bearings are TPI, not Enduro, at least that's what's printed on the side of these.
    I've pressed Enduro bearings into BBs and DTs and trust them. TPI? Never heard of them. Will know more in time I suppose but have no reason to doub them. They sure look like Enduro.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    They will be laced up shortly to a pair of WTB Kom rims. Not sure if I'll lace w/ the tried and true DT Super Comp spoke or use the cheaper (in the spirit of this build) Pillar spokes.
    Then will be run tubless w/ WTB Nano 40s on a SS CX thru axle freak show build.

    Stans eh? Interesting. They seem similar to several makes. I'll need to study some STans hubs for comparison.
    Just had the F hub a bit apart Have no idea how I'd pop the bearings out to replace them. The R is pretty straight forward.
    Please keep us posted on your resutls, I'll do the same.
    JCB
    I went with Super Comps for my front wheel and I was able to reuse the Comps from the sram x7 hub that came on the i23 wheels to the BHS/Bitex rear hub.

  14. #14
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    If their MTB hubs are anything like their road hubs, you will have many years of trouble free enjoyment. I've got several sets with many thousands of miles with zero maintenance.

  15. #15
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    What is the quality of the pawls and springs/leafs under the pawls? Hard to tell from the photos I've seen.

    I have broken the leaf springs in my hope hub, but have put thousands of miles on them (4-5K miles?).

    I've grown accustomed to a higher engagement hub and I need 11s road cassette compatibility so that I can swap the wheels with my cross bike, this hub seems to fit the bill as long as the pawls and springs seem of high quality.
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  16. #16
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    Hokie-
    I was wrong. Well, partially wrong any way.
    I pulled the rear hub apart when showing it to a co-worker. The freehub definitely has Enduro bearings. No idea why they are using TPI in the hub shell, and Enduro in the freehub.

    GFisher-
    I don't have much of an idea about the paw springs. They are little compression springs on the 6 paws.

    I know that a compression spring is pretty long lived if it's compressed along it's normal axis. Expansion springs can fail faster.
    I'd be pretty surprised if these springs end up being a problem.
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  17. #17
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    Subscribed. Thanks for taking the time post your impression and inside pics of these hubs. I am looking to pick up a set myself when I get back from my mtb trip next week! Was set on getting some DT 350's for new wheel build, but can't bring myself to pay $100 more for the little 36t rachet upgrade on those.
    Ride On!

  18. #18
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    I like to set a pair of these on a scale next to the 350s.
    Sure seems like their weights are very comparable.

    I ran the higher engagement on my 240s for a few months.
    Chipped all the teeth in the higher engagement star rings. Now I'm back to the usual and all is well. Has been since 2010 when I swapped back.

    Been running the same 240s since 2008 on two mountain bikes. Love them.
    If these BHS hubs work even close to as well, for this low low price- well hell. It might be a while until I can justify the $$ for 240s again.
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  19. #19
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    I wish I had seen this a few weeks ago. I've also been running DT Swiss 240s hubs and love them. But I'm building up a set of carbon wheels and could not justify $600+ for the 36 POE 240s hubs when the carbon rims were only costing me $150 each.

    I decided to take a chance on a set of Novatec D711SB / D712SB hubs. They're light and cheap and the reviews seemed decent. But you know what they say about light, cheap and durable.... Pick 2.

  20. #20
    Formerly of Kent
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs

    You can still find 240s on the cheap-ish.

    $180 for a DT 240: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=231470026807


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  21. #21
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    I have about 3 sets of BHS hubs on several mtb and one road bike. All reliable except one rear hub that broke the spring/leaf....but in full honesty it was my fault. I let the rear hub develop some play and during a race, well, lurch lurch skip skip crunch. It's on a 27.5 wheel and since I'm only riding 29er and 26er (gasp) these days it's not a priority to fix, but replacement parts are out there.

    If I was to build another wheelset it'd be with these hubs.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    GFisher-
    I don't have much of an idea about the paw springs. They are little compression springs on the 6 paws.

    I know that a compression spring is pretty long lived if it's compressed along it's normal axis. Expansion springs can fail faster.
    I'd be pretty surprised if these springs end up being a problem.
    To clarify, they are mini coil springs under compression
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  23. #23
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    Getting closer to actually riding on these hubs. Here is the 270 with 40T Wolftooth GC, sram cassette, and WTB i23 wheel.




    My biggest positive impressions so far: low weight and low drag! I don't have a scale so I didn't weigh anything, but the weight I shed by dumping the X7 hubs that were on those wheels is definitely noticeable. it feels like the wheels with the BHS hub and cassette is lighter than the wheel with the X7 hub alone. I only spun the hub while the bike was on the stand and they seem pretty low drag to me.

  24. #24
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    I'm in the same boat.
    Wheels are laced, much of the frame is too.
    A few minor but vital parts are missing before I can ride them.

    The frame is one of those low cost Chinese carbon frames. It's odd to be sure. I'll build it as a SS cross frame... w/ discs, tapered fork, and thru axles. Total odd duck.
    But keeping w/ the low cost frame, I went w/ these unknown hubs. Truth told- I have more trust in the hubs than the frame! Well, perhaps more than the fork anyway. Frame looks fine.
    I added reflective tape to the hubs. Spruces em up a bit and makes me safer on those long days that end later than I hoped for.
    Also added a sweet rattle can paint job to two spokes. I can't imagine this will ever look this good again. The smallest bit of abus causes the paint to scrape righ off. But for now- They look pretty sharp.
    Tires are WTB Nano 40. I've never tried this tire but they look fantastic. I've yet to know a gravel ride that doesn't include too much pave an a sliver or three of just a hair too rough trail.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    Several packages from now, I should be able to report more.
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  25. #25
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img-20140623-00801.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img-20140808-00883.jpg

    Here is the RED laced to WTB i25, Spaim Force spokes w/ brass nips

    Over 300 miles rolling smooth
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
    Love Dirt / Hate Pavement

  26. #26
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    I would like to say that I've recovered from my red accent phase but my counselor probably thinks otherwise.
    I have two bikes (one SS, one w/ gears) that are pretty much identical. And they have all sorts of red ano on them.
    When they were new all parts matched. Now though, sun and time have faded most parts to various shades of red/pink.
    Thanks Chris King for the now pink headset that doesn't match the King headset spacers (that for some reason haven't faded one bit). Nipples get replaced w/ new rims so they look red. Salsa seat collar is red-ish.
    No way I'd want red hubs...
    No way. Nope. I'm cured.
    I'd never....
    I couldn't possibly.
    (sound of me hurrying to BHS to order new hubs)
    I'll be keenly interested to hear if their color changes over time. Seems American anodising fades while over sea sources might last longer.
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  27. #27
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    hahaha Yeah, it all seams to fade. My black RFace handelbars are turning grey, just look under the grip or shifter/brake clamp..
    I don't really care how long the "lipstick n rouge" is on before the ride is over hahahahaa

    Make it Pertty!
    Ride it DIrty!!

    RIDE!!!!!!!!!
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  28. #28
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    Summer heat/Sun is damn hot here and this up incoming one will be my hubs first full summer of burn. Guess a photo to photo comparison with the same camera and photos 1yr apart might be a good future post
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
    Love Dirt / Hate Pavement

  29. #29
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    black hubs... FTW
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  30. #30
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    My black King hubs always changed to a nice eggplant over the years.

    Wonder why a Thomson post stays black and the King headset below it morphs into ugly.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    black hubs... FTW
    ComON Hokie, you know you want BLING!! :-P
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
    Love Dirt / Hate Pavement

  32. #32
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    I have a red accent affliction also. I think it's understandable with the long standing trend of black everything. From frames to components to hubs to rims to spokes. I like a little color. Here is my freshly built cross wheelset using BHS hubs and Chinese carbon rims. Note the fancy 3 cross on the rear drive side and radial on non-drive side. I used their 16:8 hole hub.

    So no help here as far as durability, but I can tell you that they are light as hell and they want to spin forever.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1291.jpgInitial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1294.jpgInitial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1298.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1296.jpg  


  33. #33
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    Nice wheels.
    In person do they have that pink-ish tint to them?
    I really like the super thin non-disc look of the F hub.

    When new, the various red anodized items I have were all a similar color of red.
    Now, they are all various shades of red and pink. For some reason (that I'm sure King would never admit to)- the King headsets are faded all to hell and the same era King headset spacers are a mostly unfaded red. What the heck King? Am I supposed to believe you do the same anodizing on each? Or is someone else doing your spacers?
    (But that's just me complaining to the Ethernet)
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Nice wheels.
    In person do they have that pink-ish tint to them?
    I really like the super thin non-disc look of the F hub.

    When new, the various red anodized items I have were all a similar color of red.
    Now, they are all various shades of red and pink. For some reason (that I'm sure King would never admit to)- the King headsets are faded all to hell and the same era King headset spacers are a mostly unfaded red. What the heck King? Am I supposed to believe you do the same anodizing on each? Or is someone else doing your spacers?
    (But that's just me complaining to the Ethernet)
    I wouldn't say they're pinkish, but they are definitely a shade lighter than my red TRP CX8 mini V brakes. I gave up on trying to get exact matches in anodized colors. I work in an unrelated industry that does plating and anodizing so know that the base metal affects how the final color looks. I would guess that would be the cause of the King inconsistency.

  35. #35
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    As someone in that world- can you tell me why one item (oh say.... KING stuff) is supposed to be top shelf (and then fades) and another item (oh say... Bottom of the barrel knock off Asian stems on rental bikes) stay ano black for what seems like forever?
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  36. #36
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    Unfortunately, I have no idea.

  37. #37
    wanna ride bikes?
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    has anyone tried the rear hub conversion kit? specifically the 12x135? will this conversion kit fit into a standard 10x135 drop out frame?

    yes i'm aware that a 12mm peg will not fit in a 10mm hole, but description/dimension of certain parts are often not exactly what they are described as being.

    I would love to use these hubs, mostly the rear, but it has to accept a 10mm thru bolt of some kind.

    what axle/frame are you guys using this rear hub on? anyone tried the 10x135 conversion on a standard drop out frame?
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  38. #38
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    so i sent bikehubstore an email and this is what i got back.

    BikeHubStore.com
    To me Today at 6:29 AM
    Ben,

    The OLD is 135mm. Whether it will fit on your bike I do not know. These were 12/135 axles sent to us in error, but there have been a few people who wanted them. But I cannot guarantee compatibility with your bike.

    Brandon
    not very helpful, but it seems a few people have at least tried it. anyone here on MTBR? i wonder though if it's the wrong part, and they have no idea if it fits into a standard 135 frame, why are they selling them? hmmm

    can't tell from the pic what diameter the end caps are.
    Attachment 972130
    Last edited by *OneSpeed*; 03-12-2015 at 07:58 AM.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  39. #39
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    man this guy must be having a bad morning! i sent a follow up e-mail to "Brandon" asking if they had an accurate measurement, or if someone there could try to fit it into a standard drop out. what i got back was a snarky response full of attitude saying he doesn't know and "if i'm uncertain then don't buy them. I don't know what else to tell you." kind of a jerk, not the best way to answer a customers questions who is intending to buy at least 2 sets of hubs. not to mention share the experience with everyone on MTBR.

    he did however include pictures showing a micrometer measuring the end caps, and that answered my question. no.

    the end cap is 19mm wide, with the flat sides measuring 17mm. I'm not sure what frame that fits but it's nothing I own.

    i still wonder if i could drill out the 5mm end caps and use a Hadley thru bolt conversion or something. DT RWS?

    so are most of you just using a standard quick release with your rear hubs?
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  40. #40
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    I'm confused on your question. It works just fine in a 135 drop out frame.

    I have a MTB270 QR rear axle assembly that I'd be happy to measure, but again, I'm not sure what you're asking.

    Brandon is a fair, honest guy and is great to work with.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  41. #41
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    my question was about the conversion kit. not the quick release version. read my first post again. i also linked it, if you click the picture in my post above it will take you to the page.

    he may be a fair and honest guy, he must just be having a bad day is all.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  42. #42
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    Sorry, I can't speak to 12x135. Just 135QR and 12x142.

    I have been happy with the 4 MTB270's and 1 MTB180 that I purchased.

    I currently am running a 12x142 MTB270 on the rear of both of my bikes.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  43. #43
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    yeah, that's kind of what i want to do...

    I am looking for a rear hub that I can use a 10x135 thru bolt, like a Hope pro II, or Hadley hub. I was going to go with the Hope, but if these can do it for half the price and a little higher engagement, that would have been sweet.
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    I use a 12mm to 10mm 135mm bolt on axle with my 12x135mm MTB 270. You can also find step down axles with a with a QR if you don't want to use bolts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by degu22 View Post
    I use a 12mm to 10mm 135mm bolt on axle with my 12x135mm MTB 270. You can also find step down axles with a with a QR if you don't want to use bolts.
    YES! thats what i was looking for. where did you get your axle? do you have a link?

    I would like to use the strongest/stiffest possible combination. i don't care what brand, although i would like to avoid the DT RWS.

    something like this American Classic QR thru axle HERE
    Attachment 972180

    or a Hadley thru bolt like THIS
    Attachment 972181

    will either one of these work?
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    I think I got mine off ebay. Get one with the 15mm bolts, that's as stiff as you'll get with 10mm dropouts. I have one similar to the one on the bottom but I don't really trust it, it seems a bit weak. Both of those would work as long as they have the 10mm step-down.

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    i don't think either of those have a step down, they are just 10mm.

    however i found this a while ago 12 to 10mm adapter
    Attachment 972190

    it's also available on ebay. I would rather have a QR version like the AC but will still be happy if this works.
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    BENKD29:

    I ran a Hope Pro 2 12x135 in 10mm QR dropouts with a stepdown axle and it was definitely stiffer than a QR. I used an Azonic Momentum axle first: Azonic Momentum Axle 12mm X 135mm | Azonic, then switched to a much lighter (and also much more expensive) Loaded AMX axle: Loaded USA :: Loaded Precision Components :: Products .

    Although it's not as clean looking, and requires an additional wrench in you pack, I definitely prefer the 15mm nutted axles over something with a recessed hex head.

  49. #49
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    Ha! more options. i love it. good info, thanks.

    yeah, i just realized they don't sell the hub as a 12x135, you have to buy the adapter kit, and the thru bolt separately. plus i feel like the weight is creeping up as well as the money. the hub+adapter is $132, plus a thru bolt $12-60. thats getting close to Hope money.

    the loaded precision looks nice. that seems to be the best option so far.
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    Daaammmnnn!
    This thread has gone places.
    Interesting fits questions for the rear hub.

    Although I have less time on them than the other folks here that are posting, I'll keep w/ the original spirit when I started this thread.
    Perhaps 200 miles. ZERO issues.
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  51. #51
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    I started talking with Brandon about 135 x 10mm thru axles for his hubs. He was busy dealing with weather and school closures and then I broke my ankle. As soon as I'm completely mobile again, I'm going to pick up on this conversation again.
    I have that setup on a rear Hope on one of my bikes and in my opinion, it's the only way to set up a bike with standard dropouts.
    I like turtles

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I have that setup on a rear Hope on one of my bikes and in my opinion, it's the only way to set up a bike with standard dropouts.
    I agree. I'm converting all my bikes now. I will never use a standard quick release again. i wish the industry would make a drastic change so that all hubs were 9mm/10mm quick release thru axles as standard. good luck with that.

    truth is they are hard to come by, with the exception of high end hubs. the Sram X9 comes to mind, and the Specialized Stout front (which i don't think is made anymore and not convertible). and now of course the BHS hubs.

    I'm relatively new to the sport, and 210 lbs, but i'm still shocked that there isn't a higher demand for this. I realize that most new frames/forks are 15mm front/142x12 rear but still...
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    So wait-
    What are you guys talking about?
    You take a 12/142 hub. Stuff some converter in it? And use it as a bolt on? Or a QR?

    Please clarify if you can.
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    You take a 12/142 hub. Stuff some converter in it? And use it as a bolt on? Or a QR?

    Please clarify if you can.
    no, it's a 135 hub. go back a page and read from Post #37

    or skip my initial question and read from Post #43 where the question gets answered.

    let me know if that helps
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    BENKD-
    I read it again but guess previous head injuries or lack of coffee are precluding my ability to gain clarity.

    You take a BHS hub.
    It starts life as at 135mm wide.
    But it's not the thin diameter associated w/ a standard QR- it's 10mm?
    I don't see any options on BHS that make a 10x135.

    The only parts I understand are that it's 135mm wide and it's for a frame w/ vertical dropouts. The rest is voodoo.
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  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    BENKD-
    I read it again but guess previous head injuries or lack of coffee are precluding my ability to gain clarity.

    You take a BHS hub.
    It starts life as at 135mm wide.
    But it's not the thin diameter associated w/ a standard QR- it's 10mm?
    I don't see any options on BHS that make a 10x135.

    The only parts I understand are that it's 135mm wide and it's for a frame w/ vertical dropouts. The rest is voodoo.
    Grab a coffee and have a read of this.

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    you got a problem with voodoo??? jk

    the end caps dictate what axle can be used. using the same 135 hub, 12x142 end caps are for a 142 TA frame only. but on some hubs you can switch the end caps to take a standard quick release, or vice versa. you are correct, BHS does not make a 10x135 hub.

    standard dropouts are 100x9mm front, 135x10mm rear. the BHS rear hub has an optional conversion kit to go from a 5mm QR to a 12mm bolt on axle. in this case you remove the end caps with hollow tube, and insert a hollow tube that has an inner diameter of 12mm.

    now you buy a bolt on axle that is 12mm in diameter except at the ends where it needs to fit in the drop outs. the diameter is decreased to 10mm. it "steps down." you then thread on the bolts from the outside using a 15mm threaded nut and a standard 15mm wrench in place of a quick release.

    Attachment 975225
    here is a standard quick release end cap compared to the 12x135 conversion.

    Attachment 975227
    here is the inner diameter of the 12x135 conversion kit. and to make it work, you need a bolt.

    Attachment 975228
    you can see the 10mm step down at the ends

    the goal is to get the most robust setup achievable in a drop out frame.

    did that clear it up? I'm sure i left something out, or could have clarified better, if so i'll go back and edit if necessary.
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  58. #58
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    BroSide-
    Yep.
    That helps. Thanks.

    The funny thing is that I'm running the DT RWS set up on the back of two bikes and didn't do the math on this! Not only do I know it, I have it. Sheesh.

    Sorry to sidetrack it all.
    10x135 now makes sense.

    BENDK-
    Another huge help.
    Great explanation. Thank you.
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  59. #59
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    no prob, I just figured it out myself. happy to share.

    9mm/10mm hubs being standard on everything would make life a lot easier, and better. but that would be too easy.
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    Can anyone chime in on the difference in the sound between the DT Swiss 240/350 and the BHS MTB270.

    I'm weighing these hubs for a new wheel build and like to stay somewhat stealth in the woods. Seeing wildlife is a pleasant plus on the trail.

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    Just throw some Phil's oil on the pawls. My I9 hubs are not quite quiet and my guess is they were louder than the BHS hubs

  62. #62
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    The BHS hubs have a quieter, slightly higher pitch "buzz" than most of the other hubs.
    I like turtles

  63. #63
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    I'm using 240s on two bikes. Have been running them for years and my ear is very used to a quiet hub.

    The BHS hubs are definitly louder than my 240s, but even as someone who isn't a fan of loud hubs- they aren't bad at all to me.

    As someone said, a bit of wear and oil will go a long way to making them a bit quieter, and hopefully still functional in 0 degree weather.

    I will say- they are nowhere near as annoying as a damned King or Hope.
    Not even close.
    My best pal rides his SS w/ a Hope and oh my.... It's really something to be near. Some like that stuff, but it's not my cup of bees.
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    Thanks for the feed back on sound...

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    The cheap OEM hub on my Giant Trance started skipping late last season and I was going to eek a final season out of it until I saw this post. Another plus is that the hub has the same spoke diameter as my old hub so I can hopefully use the same spokes. I've never laced a wheel so this will be a learning experiences for me. I've always wanted to try it (have a truing stand already).

    I ordered a MTB270 in Shimano 10mm this morning. Can't wait...

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    I like reusing spikes when it seems prudent- they can be surprisingly long lived if you let them be.
    Many builders get all touchy about it- but if they are not too dinged up- use them.
    But- perhaps new nips. Unless they are brass... Then maybe.
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  67. #67
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    I hate loud hubs. I find the sound of the BHS MTB270 to be actually pretty pleasant. A little Phil's does make it a touch quieter. Once you ride with a hub that has a bit of a metallic/ pissed off hornet buzz, you actually start to like it
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I like reusing spikes when it seems prudent- they can be surprisingly long lived if you let them be.
    Many builders get all touchy about it- but if they are not too dinged up- use them.
    But- perhaps new nips. Unless they are brass... Then maybe.
    When you disassemble the wheel, lay out a paper towel and with a pen, make lines to separate the towel into 4 sections. Label each section NDS outer, NDS inner, DS inner and DS outer. This will help in assembly with used spokes immensely.
    I like turtles

  69. #69
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    Just ordered my 5th BHS MTB270... apparently they have them in black, red and silver now. Went with silver. It'll clash horribly with the lime green frame I've got coming. Fawk it. I like loud colors. Why the hell not?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Just got the hub in the mail yesterday. It seems really stiff, wonder if it needs to break in or if I need to adjust something. It's a very quiet hub, which I like.

  71. #71
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    There's no adjustment.
    Just go ride, and I bet you'll be fine.
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  72. #72
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    As they wear, their sound gets louder.
    Still isn't as bad as a Hope, but I dropped some grease in this eve to hopefully quiet it down a bit.

    Just an FYI for the new buyers.
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  73. #73
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    Thanks for the feedback Johnny - I'm still on the fence but probably buying hubs within the next couple of days.

  74. #74
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    Even as a loud hub hater, I'd happily do these again.
    So far anyway!
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  75. #75
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    Did the oil/grease quiet them back down?

  76. #76
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    I'll know more this eve.
    Gave it a good couple of cranks on the stand and is sounded about the same.
    I was amazed at how long the wheel will continue to spin when I do that not so scientific test.
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  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I was amazed at how long the wheel will continue to spin when I do that not so scientific test.
    ^^ ditto
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 04-28-2015 at 12:40 PM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Johnny - have you been out for a ride after the oil/grease service?
    Did it help bring the sound back down?

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    Yep.
    It's quieter but it's been light riding.
    I didn't want to post until it had some thing more substantial on it.
    Too many trails drying out!
    I'd rather be on more single track oriented bikes than the CX bike these days!
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    I had one of the first ones available and grenaded it. Literally managed to blow it into two halves.

    BSH was great and replaced it. Have one ride on the replacement and it's good so far.

    I have a question on spoke lengths. Has anyone found their spoke calcs to be long when using the provided dimensions?

    I built it up into a Pacenti TL28 28h 3x with Cx-Rays. After building I was pretty much bottoming out the nipples on the threads and it wasn't as high a tension as the wheel should have.

    Planning to scrap the rim and spokes due to another issue and rebuild the hub into another rim, but want to see if others have had issues with long spokes before I round further down on the spoke calc.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    want to see if others have had issues with long spokes before I round further down on the spoke calc.
    All 5 of mine have built up just fine with the stated dimensions. Haven't taken the time to measure myself as I seem to remember that others have confirmed the measurements.

    Are you using the mfg's stated ERD? Or are you verifying your rim's ERD's yourself and then ordering the appropriate spoke length?

    The reason I ask is I've seen plenty of rims come in with an ERD higher than stated. Many mfg's report nipple seat diameter, but do not account for the thickness/height of the spoke head itself. If the ERD is off, I find that it tends to be off by 3-4mm, which is the thickness/height of a spoke nipple head.

    EDIT: error in ERD will more significantly impact the spoke length measurement than an error in hub dimension. I've swapped hubs that have different flange diameters and different spacing and everything has worked out OK.

    Same cannot be said for a 2-4mm error in ERD.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  82. #82
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    Oh, another thing, are you accounting for spoke stretch?

    In DT Swiss' spoke calculator, it'll often have you round down if you select DT Revolution spokes (which are like your CX-Rays, except not bladed) vs. DT Competition spokes. IE: thinner spokes stretch a bit more. Especially so on the drive side/disc side.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    I initially used the stated ERD I found online for the rims.

    Will be waiting till I have rims in hand and confirm myself on the ERD for the next set.

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    I've been running the MBT270 for about a month. Initially I was disappointed because the freehub had a lot of friction and skipped a lot under load. I decide to allow it a break in period before returning it and I'm glad I did. After about five hours of riding it stopped skipping and has lostened up substantially. Now I love the hub.

  85. #85
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    Weird!
    Friction eh?
    Mine has seemed buttery since the start.
    Wonder what that is about.
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    I initially thought it was because of the extra pals. More pals, more contact points... It was enough that I could feel it pushing my pedals while coasting. I pulled off the freehub and everything looked fine. Plenty of grease, etc.

    Now that it's broken in both problems are gone. Weird that it needed a break in period.

  87. #87
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    Just got an m270 delivered. Seems like a well built hub and the engagement is excellent. Will be building with Derby rims. Wanted to give props to Brandon for terrific customer service. Ordered the wrong axle converter, asked to exchange and he shipped it off to me immediately without waiting for me to mail back the one I had and didn't ask me to pay shipping even though it was my mistake. Will report back once wheel is built.

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    Nice Myers.
    Always good to hear of another happy (so far!) buyer.

    Mine have a reasonable chunk of miles now. Plenty of abuse and torque (well as much as I can muster) on a SS cross bike.
    Not a single glitch or skip of the paws.
    So far, so good. Sound seems broken in and makes no racket.

    THESE HUBS ARE A GREAT ALTERNATIVE (so far anyway)
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  89. #89
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    There is no jamb nut or other way to set preload on bearings. You sort of need to get lucky between too loose or too tight. Your axle attachment to the bike then adds a little more preload and tightens things up.
    This issue also shows up if your wheel spins forever or not. If it really spins well when not mounted, it will likely be too loose when mounted on a bike, resulting in the position of the brake disc moving around (drag). If the disc moves side to side when you grab your wheel, the preload needs to be tighter.
    Not much of a problem if your are looking for it.

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    On this type of cartridge bearing hub, theres no preload. There shouldnt be any slop either.

    Its setup like a hope or DT swiss hub. They just work, no adjustments necessary or possible.

  91. #91
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    Taking the thread back a bit to hub conversions. Got my M270 with the 142 x 12, and also ordered the 135 x 12 converter to run it on a 135 rear frame. The option to run a through bolt on 135mm rear frames is definitely a plus, way better than QR!

    Did some searching for a 12 to 10mm step down thru-bolt based on suggestions in post #48; Azonic Momentum, cheap (~$12- 15) but heavy (84gm) and the Loaded Precision AMX axle, light (60gm) but pricey ($60). I ran across this Stan's converter, $25 and light. Looks to be the same as this Sun-Ringle axle.

    Ordered the Stan's version from Jenson. Weighed in at 60g, so same weight as the AMX for a fraction of the cost. Fit was a bit tight, but it does go thru. Total weight of hub/converter/step down axle=337g on my scale.

    My Derby rims arrived today, now to measure and order spokes. Getting stoked to try my first wheel build

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers005 View Post
    My Derby rims arrived today, now to measure and order spokes. Getting stoked to try my first wheel build
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Mine have a reasonable chunk of miles now. Plenty of abuse and torque (well as much as I can muster) on a SS cross bike.
    Not a single glitch or skip of the paws.
    So far, so good. Sound seems broken in and makes no racket.
    No problems with the alloy freehub and SS use? I would think that a single gear would dig horribly into the freehub.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    But is there beer involved?

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    Not having a jamb nut is a bad design. The bearing preload is then dependent on how tight the frame/axle (QR or maxle) is torqued. The brake disc centerline then moves around as well. If the bearing preload is set way too loose, the maxle can also comes loose in use. This exact thing happened to me on a few rides in a row and it was not until I realized that the bearing preload was the problem that it got permanently fixed.

    Can the design work and do other manf use it - sure, but it does not mean it is right. Anyway, this is just information that might help others.

    The good news is that even with cheap ABEC1 grade bearings, my buddies can't keep up with me just coasting without having to peddle on long gradual downhill. All and all pretty damn good hubs.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johnny Chicken Bones's Avatar
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    Please disregard.
    --------- __o
    ------- _`\<,_
    ------ (*)/ (*)
    ******************
    Running is for prey.

  97. #97
    Rocks belong
    Reputation: 06HokieMTB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommybees View Post
    Not having a jamb nut is a bad design. The bearing preload is then dependent on how tight the frame/axle (QR or maxle) is torqued. The brake disc centerline then moves around as well. If the bearing preload is set way too loose, the maxle can also comes loose in use. This exact thing happened to me on a few rides in a row and it was not until I realized that the bearing preload was the problem that it got permanently fixed.

    Can the design work and do other manf use it - sure, but it does not mean it is right. Anyway, this is just information that might help others.

    The good news is that even with cheap ABEC1 grade bearings, my buddies can't keep up with me just coasting without having to peddle on long gradual downhill. All and all pretty damn good hubs.
    The axle has a jamb nut. It's the end cap. You can tighten the axle to remove slop. Loctite helps keep it in place. Once you get it tight, the frame skewer/axle has no impact on the bearing preload.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  98. #98
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    Absolutely true. I was building wheels for a shop. Kept me plenty busy. He just closed up and moved to Idaho. I'm having withdrawals already.
    I like turtles

  99. #99
    Rocks belong
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers005 View Post
    But is there beer involved?
    Plenty. Whiskey as well.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  100. #100
    DFMBA.org
    Reputation: MTBeing's Avatar
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    Found this hub on eBay and it looks identical to the BHS MTB270, even down to a 1 gram diff in claimed weight. Perhaps just another no-label Bitex. Oh, and $30 cheaper which pays for the 12/135mm conversion kit. Mr Ride 2015 54T 6pawl MTB Rear Hub 32h Mountain Bike SRAM 10 11 Speed Black | eBay
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

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