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  1. #401
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    Sure, the pic is up the page a little bit, post #379. With another hundred fifty miles on the freehub, the gouges dont really look much worse, but the socket deformation continues. Not really much you can do about that, since its going to happen to any alloy simply from the torque. But if the pawls are skipping because the spring tension is too weak, they have a little extra momentum when they finally slam home into the gear ring.

    I will admit my original description was a bit lacking. And switching to a lighter weight oil and stretching the springs a bit has seemed to help, at least in my quick test. Like I mentioned, the clacking of the pawls slapping sounds more even now, likely due to the more even spring tensions. But IMO the spring tension should be enough to overcome whatever oil or grease I put in there.

    Maybe there's a subtle difference in the XD driver springs, or maybe its because I bought the discount BITEX branded hubs from BHS. But either way, the pawl tension is considerably lower than even the koozers were and not even in the same universe as a hope. Granted leaf vs compression springs are apples and oranges, but in practical application the results are the same. Hopefully that will explain my desire to get a hold of some beefier springs.

  2. #402
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    sorry, totally missed that. I'd still try contacting Brandon, if e-mail doesn't work I'd try a phone call. .
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    sorry, totally missed that. I'd still try contacting Brandon, if e-mail doesn't work I'd try a phone call. .
    Ill let you guys know what he thinks...

  4. #404
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    I've been watching this, thought I'd throw my 2c in.

    If one or more pawls don't engage, the load on the freehub won't be symmetrically supported, pushing the freehub off center and creating the gouging you're seeing. This would likely cause inconsistencies in engagement or skipping. I think Guits is on the right path looking at the pawl springs and ensuring free movement.

    I've cleaned and lubed my new hubs drive mechanism, it was pretty well lubed out of the box. I'd suggest checking the lube and torque of any new parts before use, I've found many poorly assembled parts of all types over the years. If they miss some grease on the assembly line it could easily lead to these kind of problems. And if some better springs are available, I'll grab a set as a preventative upgrade for sure. Especially if they're color matched, carbon wrapped titanium, lol!!

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    With all due respect to the senior members of this thread, I disagree.

    I do have visible pawl socket deformation, and gouging on the freehub body from the teeth of the ratchet ring. When riding it occasionally will feel like the engagement is not as quick, or that the pawls skip one tooth before engaging. With the hub disassembled, two of the pawls had noticeably less spring tension than the other four. I am not simply imagining these things.

    Maybe the hub would have continued to live a long and fulfilling life on its own, and these minor issues never would have turned into anything threatening. But if I can make a small and inexpensive tweak to help insure it doesn't grenade under my clydeness, why do you guys feel the need to talk me out of it?

    Yes, I agree that these hubs are far better out of the box than the koozers are, but I'm not convinced theyre quite DT or Hope either. Thats not a bad thing, since theyre substantially cheaper, and work very well just the same.

    And yes, I was obviously kidding.
    When my Hopes start doing exactly the same thing, I replace the bearings. Cures it. You need to do it before too much damage is done.
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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    When my Hopes start doing exactly the same thing, I replace the bearings. Cures it. You need to do it before too much damage is done.
    The hubs have less than 1000 miles on them, and the bearings still seem tight and smooth. I suspect the flex has something to do with a 230 lb gymrat furiously mashing away on 28/46 gearing with plus tire traction, on a 10x135 thru axle that's not supporting the hub axle in the middle. Its the exact recipe you'll find in the hub destroyers cookbook.

    Still, its information that is worth paying attention to. I will keep an eye on the bearings and make sure theyre not the source of any runout or deflection.

  7. #407
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    ALL of my hubs require annual attention. I weigh about 255 right now. I will get skipping and ultimately, stripped ratchet rings on any hub if I don't change the bearings annually.
    Now, since I have lotsa wheels, I have to keep a log so a wheel that doesn't get ridden a lot unnecessarily gets bearings.
    I have wrinkled aluminum Hope drivers behind the pawls. I run steel on everything now.
    I still have an alloy driver on a BHS hub on my Dahon commuter bike. That bike only gets ridden on pavement and so far, two years and still going strong. I'll probably put bearings in that hub this year for good measure.
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  8. #408
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    Here was Brandon's response after sending him the pic and description:

    Im not sure there is a problem here. Occasionally one pawl will engage a little late when under load, creating a kind of popping sound. This is something that is known to happen with 6 pawl freehubs like the kind Bitex uses. This is not something we see often, if at all, really. We sell over XXXX of these hubs every year (MTB270) and see very few freehub/pawl failures of any kind
    He did offer some replacement parts, but apparently skipping teeth is par for the course?

    Anyway, new springs are on the slow boat from China just the same.

  9. #409
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    I have a MTB270 that exhibits the "skipping tooth" symptom. It happens when applying heavy power after a short period of freewheeling, like pausing the pedals to avoid a pedal strike then getting back on the gas. I am using it in a single speed configuration. I pulled the freehub off to investigate. I removed the freehub seal then reassembled without it. Like this you can see the pawls engaging the ratchet ring.

    I found one pawl was out of "time". The other 5 are fully engaged into the ratchet and this one had barely crested the "peak" of its respective tooth.

    It doesn't seem to me like this could be corrected by a heavier spring of a different lube. It is a machining issue where the pawl seat is not evenly indexed with the others.

    I have contemplated ordering another freehub but decided to leave it alone until it happens more frequently, I can see excessive wear or impending damage.

  10. #410
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    They are offset in two groups of 3 pawls. So 5 should never be fully engaged at a time. Only 3 should be engaged at a time while the other 3 are mid way up the ramp.

    I suspect maybe youre having a difficult time observing them through the window youve created, but if you are indeed correct, youre right that it would not be fixable, you would need a new freehub. If you want to prove it one way or another, check the measurements between pawls. You should get alternating measurements, in two groups of 3.

  11. #411
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    Yes. My mistake. 1 out of the group of 3. I was thinking 6-1=5 while typing my post.

    The pawls and ratchet ring can indeed be seen clearly with the seal removed.

  12. #412
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    Also while freewheeling the bike in the stand, or slowly riding on smooth ground, you can hear a pawl out of time with the rest. There is a single click that is out of rhythm with the consistent buzz during every revolution of the wheel.

  13. #413
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    I just finished lacing up a set of wheels with BHS's boost hubs. First set of them I've seen. They have the exact same brown anodized driver as all their other stuff. Nice hubs, exactly as I expected.
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  14. #414
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    I've been hammering on mine since last summer. The aluminum freehub body lasted about 50 miles on my fat bike before I swapped it and it took some work to get the cassette off (reason I quickly replaced with the steel version). Cassette gouged it and I was having some skipping. But I'm 275lbs on a fat bike with low gearing of 26/42 and wasn't nice to it.

    Steel freehub body since then and not a single issue.

    Aluminum body sits in the drawer for replacement pawls, springs or bearings when I need them. Still useable but with what my fat bike has already gone through since the new wheel build, not touched the hubs since install yet and everything is like new, don't see anything failing majorly on me.

    Everyone should know by now though:

    If your a clyde and mash on your drive train, stay away from aluminum freehubs. Your going to have issues regardless of brand. Going to destroy them.

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  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I just finished lacing up a set of wheels with BHS's boost hubs. First set of them I've seen. They have the exact same brown anodized driver as all their other stuff. Nice hubs, exactly as I expected.
    Good to know. Thinking of using BHS Boost vs DT350 for new build. I can get Hope Pro 4 at employee price but they're too loud. BHS weight and cost can't be beat, and durability is not questionable. The 3 sets nonBoost are doing well other than 1 which I let get loose and destroyed hub shell teeth. My bad!

  16. #416
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    Can y'all help me out I am going nuts tracking down some play in my front wheel.

    Setup...
    MTB180 laced to a Flow EX
    Bolted to a Fox 36 - 20mm caps
    SRAM Guide RSC brake
    Shimano RT66 rotor 180mm

    Fork/wheel about 18mo of hard riding
    Brake basically brand new, 5-6 rides

    When I hold the front brake I can grab the tire and get an *almost* imperceptible amount of fore/aft play in the system.

    I've ruled out the headset as I can do this with the bike hanging and a zip tie holding constant pressure on the brake. Holding wheel and fork, I get the play. Also of note, all rotor bolts are tight

    I can't really see the movement except up at the rim. Like I said almost imperceptible AMT of play. But it's definitely there...and it didn't used to be. And it's freaking me out on my new build.

    Is the front hub body and disc mount one piece? Or is there any kind of interface that could develop play? Similar to the rear wheel, is there anything that could come loose over time on this front hub? I know on the rear you should check your axle nuts every so often.

    Is A fastened or forged to B - one place to start? Photo below...



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  17. #417
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    I think that's all one piece. Could be the pads moving in the caliper.
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  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Can y'all help me out I am going nuts tracking down some play in my front wheel.

    Is A fastened or forged to B - one place to start? Photo below...



    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
    A and B are one piece, ie. constituting the hub shell. I literally just rebuilt a front wheel replacing old hub with the BHS hub.

    Btw, if you are holding the brake and checking for movement, and you get movement it usually is the headset/headtube. The brake locks the wheel so it can't move, ie. its locked out. The only other major moveable part is the headset ignoring play in the fork stanchions.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I think that's all one piece. Could be the pads moving in the caliper.
    This. Shimano brakes are terrible for this, but any brake can do it. The Pads rock back and forth on the center pin.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    This. Shimano brakes are terrible for this, but any brake can do it. The Pads rock back and forth on the center pin.
    They will move the first time you grab the brake. But after that that's it. Pads should not rock back and forth while clamped, otherwise you'd have some serious brake issues.

  21. #421
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    I have had ample Shimano pad slip in such a back/forth test.
    Many levels of brakes, many calipers.
    Pull super hard and the pads are much less likely to do this. That's one test.
    In my experience it's not a severe brake issue. Just a teeny bit of play that most brake models have.

    Another might be to turn the bars 90.
    If it's still happening it could be the headset.

    When the wheel isn't turned that 90- slide your hand down the upper stanchion so that your thumb is lightly pinched between the upper stanchion and the fork crown.
    Then when you rock it you might be able to clearly feel possible play between the upper/lower stanchions.

    And here's one you can all chime in to tell me I'm wrong but I've experienced this:
    Every now and then when I've done that F brake rock back forth, I've felt play at the rear shock bushings slightly reverberate to mimic a loose headset. I know I know... can't be. Impossible. (And I wasn't holding the rear brake st all).
    It's been baffling but dammit I've felt it.

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  22. #422
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    Fantastic replies all. Thanks. I'll further investigate the brake. Like I said this happens when the bike is hanging (by the saddle) and I have one hand on the wheel, one on the fork, zip tie on the brake. Pretty confident that rules out the headset.

    Cheers!

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  23. #423
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    Other thing to check is the mounting bolts to the fork for the brake caliper itself. They could have worked themselves lose and allow the caliper to move slightly. There could also be a slight bit of play in the end caps of the hub so I would check everything and clean all interfaces real well to ensure that you dont have some random grain of sand that is not allowing the hub to not mount fully on one side to the fork and giving you that small amount of play.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Other thing to check is the mounting bolts to the fork for the brake caliper itself. They could have worked themselves lose and allow the caliper to move slightly. There could also be a slight bit of play in the end caps of the hub so I would check everything and clean all interfaces real well to ensure that you dont have some random grain of sand that is not allowing the hub to not mount fully on one side to the fork and giving you that small amount of play.
    All good points here. Another simple issue to the problem can be just a slightly loose axle. Thru axles do and will come loose if left alone long enough. Just this slight movement and being un-tight can cause problems with braking and hub performance. As mentioned, check ALL related points of contact and bolts!
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  25. #425
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    So my new pawl springs arrived after a few weeks waiting for them to come in from china. I ordered size 2mm OD, 5mm OAL, 0.3mm coil thickness. The new springs are substantially thicker. I didn't even think they were going to fit, but they did fit just fine. The pawls were noticeably firmer, which is what I was hoping for.

    Here's a comparison between the original and new pawl springs. You can see the new ones are much beefier, and fewer coils, resulting in a higher spring rate.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-palw_springs_compare.jpg

    Here are all six of my original pawl springs. Hard to tell from the picture, but some springs appear to be more compressed than others. There was a noticeable variation a couple weeks ago, before I stretched a couple springs to give them some more life.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-pawl_springs_orig.jpg

    Here are the new pawl springs installed.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-pawl_springs_installed.jpg

    This hub is LOUD. Like extremely loud. Its considerably louder than my buddies hope pro 4, as well as another buddy still riding his koozers. I notice the wheel has quite a bit more drag when freewheeling on the bike stand, but its obviously impossible to notice while riding. While turning it slowly by hand, its easy to hear the pawls being slightly out of time with one another. Theres probably only a degree or two variation, but its a little disconcerting that you could potentially have only one or two pawls catch on the rare occasion.

    Out on the trail, the new pawl springs seem to engage with authority and confidence. I did not notice a single skip or any slow engagement. Perhaps only because of the loudness of the buzz, the annoying clunk is no longer noticeable when engaging hard.

    Overall, the new springs may be a bit overkill. Though I greatly prefer them to the anemic stock springs I had, I may order a slightly lighter spring, maybe with a .2 mm thickness, instead of the .3 thickness I have now. My fear is that the pawls and ratchet ring may wear faster because of the added spring rate. But maybe the springs will soften slightly after a few more rides. Ill post back and let you guys know how the settle in.

  26. #426
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    Do you have a link for those exact springs? I'd like to get a set too for my 270.

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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Do you have a link for those exact springs? I'd like to get a set too for my 270.
    Before I link you, theres a few things you need to fully understand.

    1. These springs are probably not necessary (nor advisable) for most users. In most cases the stock springs are plenty. I feel like I may have had a bad batch, and I was having some issues with the freehub skipping/slow engagement. If you dont have these issues, I suggest you leave well enough alone.

    2. These springs were for my hubs, which came with an xD driver. I cannot verify that the same springs will fit the normal shimano style freehub.

    3. These springs are completely untested. Aside from completely nullifying any warranty you may have, I cant vouch for how long these springs will last. Who knows, they could start breaking or soften up on me in the next few rides. I'm rolling the dice here.

    4. These springs could possibly do more harm than good. They are completely untested, and we have no way of knowing if there are any detrimental long term effects in running them. They could potentially wear out the pawls or ratchet ring much faster than they otherwise would.

    5. As I mentioned, these springs were probably overkill. The 0.3 mm thickness seems like its a bit heavier than I shoudl have gone. I may go with a slightly lighter 0.2 mm thickness spring in the near future.

    That said, if you're still interested, here is the ebay listing I purchased:

    25pcs Stainless Steel Compression Spring 0.3*2*5 | eBay

    Please note that the ebay item image does not match the springs in question.

  28. #428
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    Don't know if I wrote about it in this thread or another one but on my first ride on my first build (with 180/270 hubs) I felt kind of like a 1/4 revolution skip until it grabbed and noticed nothing irregular during the rest of the ride.
    I got home and removed the pawls and also noticed that not all of the springs were the same length so I stretched them all out a little to match the longest one and it's been fine ever since.
    I like the upgraded spring idea.
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  29. #429
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    Update on Heavier Springs:

    The 0.3 mm coil thickness springs were a bit too heavy, so last night I swapped them out to new 0.2 mm coil thicness springs. Upon disassembly, I saw that one of teh heavier springs had actually broken at some point in the last 100 to 150 miles. The pawl was still operating, as only one coil had broken off. The broken coil had worked itself out of the ratchet ring and up against the seal, so it wasn't doing any damage. The springs were nowhere near coil bind, so IMO its simply too heavy a spring, and it simply succumbed to fatigue.

    The lighter weight 0.2 mm springs have more coils, so fatigue life should be extended a bit. Its hard to remember how the stock springs sounded, but the new springs are FAR quieter than the 0.3 mm springs were. I'll miss the rattle snake sound a bit, but hopefully this will be a good middle ground. I have not yet gone for a ride on them yet, but theres a lot less resistance spinning the wheel by hand.

  30. #430
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    Does anyone have an extra mtb270 XD driver body they can sell? I have the Shimano splined freehub but I have 2 XD cassettes i wanna use. Wanted to save before buying new from the store.

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Does anyone have an extra mtb270 XD driver body they can sell? I have the Shimano splined freehub but I have 2 XD cassettes i wanna use. Wanted to save before buying new from the store.
    Unfortunately buying from BHS at full pop may be your only option. Ive been all over ebay, aliexpress, DH gate, and the rest of the usual "asian direct" sites without any luck tracking down a bitex XD driver. Assuming nobody is willing to part with theirs.

  32. #432
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    Ill just say it first, buy one from brandon at BHS. Hes a long time member here, and at RBR. Hes an actual rider running a really cool small business. He responds to emails personally and he'll do what he can to help you out. Plus the product is good.

    That said, bitex will definitely sell you whatever bitex part you want. It'll take forever to show up. They do have a website. Ive done many, many orders with bitex and honestly its a huge pain in the ass. Its always right in the end, but getting to the end isnt necessarily smooth or fun.

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    That said, bitex will definitely sell you whatever bitex part you want. It'll take forever to show up. They do have a website. Ive done many, many orders with bitex and honestly its a huge pain in the ass. Its always right in the end, but getting to the end isnt necessarily smooth or fun.
    Ive seen the UK site that you can order from, but the prices are over what BHS sells for. Ive seen what I believe is the bitex corporate site Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub, but it doesnt appear that you can order. They have links to distributors, and BHS is the only one stateside.

    As for Brandon, and BHS, I like the guy, but it can sometimes take a couple of tries to get in touch with him. My first email went unanswered, but he eventually responded to a followup. Though in all fairness, I only emailed, and did not try to give him a phone call.

    He didn't exactly offer any resolution when my freehub was skipping, and my springs barely had any pressure. I believe his words were "I dont think there's really a problem here". I had to tinker around and come up with my own solution to stop the freehub from getting gouged. Though the freehub never failed, or even close, so it doesn't really count as a warranty issue either. As I mentioned in a previous post, the freehub may have lived on for years with the occasional skip, pop, and some cosmetic gouging. My efforts were towards nipping the problem in the bud.

    He's probably like every other small business owner, overwhelmed, just trying to keep his head above water. I know its not personal, but it does make it frustrating when you have a problem, or are trying to find a specific item. When you do get in touch with him, he does seem to be a down to earth and genuinely nice enough guy.

    Any difficulties aside, you'll be hard pressed to find any other hub this strong for this price. I would be remiss if I did not continue to recommend the hubs to family and friends as a great budget option.

    EDIT:
    I did receive an email from Brandon apologizing for missing my emails, and offering replacement parts. He's not sure how the emails went missing, but I have to concede that its equal parts my fault for not trying to contact him by phone. Regardless, I dont think any replacement parts are necessary at this point since the freehub is working well now. But his contacting me does go a long way in reaffirming my faith in BHS. Thanks, Brandon, for tracking me down to make sure I was a happy customer.
    Last edited by GuitsBoy; 08-23-2017 at 08:58 AM.

  34. #434
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    Hey dudes. Totally blew out the bearing closest to the pawls on my mtb270
    Any idea what I'll need for a replacement?

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  35. #435
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    Just ordered a Boost148 hub. I think this is my 6th rear hub from Brandon. Couldn't be happier.

    Sold a 3 year old MTB270 on a bike yesterday... was still going strong. It did have some decent gouging on the freehub from the shimano cassette. It was the older alloy freehub. This has been addressed with the anti-bite inserts on the new alloy freehubs, or with the steel freehubs.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  36. #436
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    BTW: the only thing I've noticed with these hubs is that frequent wheel swaps/installs can cause the end caps to loosen on the thru axle. The end cap keeps the freehub tight against the bearing, which keeps the pawls supported in the drive ring. If the end caps aren't tight, I can see how play can develop between the pawls and the drive ring. (Maybe that caused some of carnage that others recently saw?)

    You can feel lateral play in the wheel/hub when the end caps are loose. (Hold the bike and push the wheel/tire side to side.)

    Moral of the story? Add a drop or two of Loctite to the end cap threads, keep 'em torqued and they seem to last forever!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  37. #437
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    Looking at using these for a road wheel build. Anyone have any better suggestions for a 12x142 rear/15mm front setup? I think literally the only thing that could be better is a Bitex road disc setup that maybe shaves weight....

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  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Looking at using these for a road wheel build. Anyone have any better suggestions for a 12x142 rear/15mm front setup? I think literally the only thing that could be better is a Bitex road disc setup that maybe shaves weight....

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  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    BHS hubs are Bitex hubs.
    Lol. I got it man. I'm just saying I wonder if the only thing better than a MTB270/180 setup for road would be if Bitex made a road specific set...but I don't think they do!

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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Lol. I got it man. I'm just saying I wonder if the only thing better than a MTB270/180 setup for road would be if Bitex made a road specific set...but I don't think they do!

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    They do but they are not disc brake compatible.
    SL210 SuperLight Rear Road Hub
    SuperLight Wide Front Hub

    All of their road hubs are listed here. Road Hubs

    Edit: It looks like they do have centerlock hubs. Bitex BX106R Rear Center Lock Disc Hub

  41. #441
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    Has anyone ordered the straight pull version of these hubs? I see BHS has them on the site, but there is an error if you click on them. I emailed Brandon yesterday asking about them, but dont have a reply yet.

    Thinking about doing a wheel build using one of the higher end Chinese carbon 28 hole and the straight pull version.

  42. #442
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    Converted a 142 MTB270 to Boost148 tonight.

    The idea came after looking at my buddies hubs (DT350 and Industry9) after they installed the Boostinator kits.

    Anyway, I bought a 148x12 thru axle from Brandon.

    Then I took an old aluminum end cap I had and cannibalized it, plus a thick 15mm ID washer that I had in my tool box.

    To do it from scratch, you'd need a 6mm thick spacer, that is 28mm OD/15mm ID.

    Install the 148 axle from the cassette side, slide on the 6mm (28/15 OD/ID) spacer against the Disc side outer bearing and then install the normal end cap. Do this on the Disc side. (The Boostinator kits only space the Disc side, the cassette side is essentially in the same place in the drive side of the frame.)

    Then install an eBay 6mm rotor spacer (again, Disc side... but I guess that's given).

    Wa-La.

  43. #443
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    Oh, I've also got two new Boost148 rear hubs (Bitex, from BHS) and can confirm that the 142 and 148 rear hubs use the same freehub.

    I converted a new Boost148 Shimano hub to XD with an MTB270 XD driver that I had.

    Frickin love these hubs.

    The Boost148 BHS hubs look strikingly similar to the SRAM 900 Boost hubs. I think the POE is even the same. And SRAM advertises their 900 hubs to have an offset "DoubleTime" freehub, which also sounds strikingly similar to the way the offset pawls in the 56POE BHS/Bitex hubs operate... hmmm.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Install the 148 axle from the cassette side, slide on the 6mm (28/15 OD/ID) spacer against the Disc side outer bearing and then install the normal end cap. Do this on the Disc side. (The Boostinator kits only space the Disc side, the cassette side is essentially in the same place in the drive side of the frame.)

    Then install an eBay 6mm rotor spacer (again, Disc side... but I guess that's given).

    Wa-La.
    Oh yeah, you're supposed to redish your wheel when you do this. I probably will the next time that I put the wheel on the truing stand. Luckily, my wife's new bike (Boost148 rear) has enough tire clearance that a 2.4 tire being slightly (maybe 3mm) out of dish is not noticeable and doesn't cause any clearance issues.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Oh yeah, you're supposed to redish your wheel when you do this. I probably will the next time that I put the wheel on the truing stand. Luckily, my wife's new bike (Boost148 rear) has enough tire clearance that a 2.4 tire being slightly (maybe 3mm) out of dish is not noticeable and doesn't cause any clearance issues.
    Know what's funny? My wife has ZERO mechanical or engineering abilities but she would notice a wheel 3mm out of dish.
    I like turtles

  46. #446
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    Found the straight pull set online for a ridiculous price. $120 for the pair:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bite...809661675.html

    Can anyone confirm these are the same hubs as the ones found at BHS? If so, this price is nuts!

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krigloch View Post
    Hey dudes. Totally blew out the bearing closest to the pawls on my mtb270
    Any idea what I'll need for a replacement?

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    Well I was going to take a pic of the damage, but the bearing exploded in there. No damage anywhere else and the other bearings were just fine.
    Very weird, but a cheap fix

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  48. #448
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    Breaking in...

    How long was it before the end caps on the rear stopped loosening?
    ...

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    How long was it before the end caps on the rear stopped loosening?
    I brought my bike in for service after about 6 months. The tech at the shop found my endcap was only finger tight.

    Not sure how quickly it became loose... but it did.

  50. #450
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    For break in period, it's normal to re-torque to spec @ first couple rides...should not continue to loosen up after snugging it back up to spec a coupl'a times, which is why I'm asking.

    I can feel it through the pedals when hammering up hill, cranks rotate forward slightly at high torque when the hub seems to slip EDIT*- it's not the pawls skipping either -
    ...

  51. #451
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    I've never NOT had the rear endcaps be loose no matter how tight I torque them. I dont want to potentially crush the bearings, and I can feel drag when I torque it too much. I was considering a touch of threadlocker. Does anyone know what the proper torque spec is?

  52. #452
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    Cmon guys, it's not a torque issue. A couple of drops of blue thread locker on the first few threads of the Disc side of the axle (after you've inserted it through the hub)

  53. #453
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    Purple locite would probably be most appropriate. Purple should be used nearly everywhere people use blue.

  54. #454
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    While i don't disagree, I think blue is fine for this application. Either will work.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Cmon guys, it's not a torque issue. A couple of drops of blue thread locker on the first few threads of the Disc side of the axle (after you've inserted it through the hub)
    I'm always aware of and take note of how much play/how coarse threaded fasteners are on my bikes. If there's too much wiggle room, it gets addressed at assembly and during break in.

    This is on a 155mm steel hardtail, 180mm cranks and meaty rubbers...more than a little torque involved here

    It's getting less and less but taking quite a while to "break in"
    ...

  56. #456
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    subbed, planning to pick these. hope they turn out as good as people say they are.

  57. #457
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    Can anyone comment on the drag or rolling resistance of these guys? In a 142x12 axle?
    Compared to say a DT Swiss 18t or 36t?
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  58. #458
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    When I ran DT 240s w/ a 36t, I noticed no difference in drag compared to the 18t.
    (though I did chip the 36t and go back to the 18t).
    And compared to the 18t DT240, I think the BHS hubs might (might?) spin more freely.

    On the down side, my hubs have a small knock when pedaling on choppy terrain.
    When there's lag in my pedal stroke and the terrain is rough, you can hear the paws re-engage after those occasional moments when pedal pressure slightly relents.

    No an issue. Just an odd sound. Pretty sure I can address it w/ some grease.

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  59. #459
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    Got a couple q's.

    1. Is the only difference between BX106F and MTB180 that the BX is centerlock, 180 is 6-bolt? Same question for the rear I guess (BX106R vs. MTB270).

    2. Do all the Bitex hubs use same end cap setups? e.g. will the BX106's convert just as easily as the 180/270 setup?

    3. For the MTB boost hubs, what are you guys using....the BX211 front/rear?


    I've got two different wheel builds coming up, one with Centerlocks (standard 142 on a gravel bike), and one for a new MTB with boost.

  60. #460
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    I opened up my rear bhs hub after a year and about 1000 kms since installing it. Most of these are trail miles, which included several wet rides and some river crossings. I was pleasantly surprised with how it has been holding up.

    Turning the axle by hand off the bike felt smooth, no gritty feeling, just like new. This was surely a good sign.
    Removed the freehub and there were was no marring from it hitting the drive ring on the side. My bhs fat hub on the other hand, does show some drive ring marks on the freehub body. I guess the increased width makes it flex more.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender-1-.jpg
    The condition of the outermost bearings was what really surprised me. They look brand spanking new. The grease is intact ant totally uncontaminated. They are definitely very well sealed. I even felt bad for popping them open. I didnt open the other bearings after having a look at those two.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender-2-.jpg

    I am happy with the hubs so far.

    Cheers

  61. #461
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    I picked up a BX centerlock. They're shipping with the anti bite freehubs now, so that's cool. 248g.

  62. #462
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    Is anyone else having issues with the outer surface of the freehub where the cassette slides on getting marred by the cassette? The cassette is getting stuck on the freehub because it is digging into the ridges on the freehub. Hope that makes sense.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
    Is anyone else having issues with the outer surface of the freehub where the cassette slides on getting marred by the cassette? The cassette is getting stuck on the freehub because it is digging into the ridges on the freehub. Hope that makes sense.
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by noremorse1 View Post
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub
    Yep. Not only these. My Hopes do it too. I try to get steel freehubs with any hub. Also helps to run an XT cassette.
    I like turtles

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by noremorse1 View Post
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub
    thanks. I never had the issue to this extent with other freehubs so was just curious. I am at the point where I am having to file down the burrs to get the cassette back on. I will look into the heavy duty, may be worth it, but not sure for the added weight. This freehub has been ridden on for 2 years, so maybe just replacing it every 2 years isnt terrible.

  66. #466
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    Freehubs

    Just go with the anti-bite version which has steel faces on half the grooves. Will solve the problem without adding hardly any weight. A lot of manufacturers have this type. There's also a full TI version now, but that is silly money.

  67. #467
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    Is there only the one source to buy these hubs or do they offer discount codes? It seems like most people bought theirs cheaper than the what the BHS lists them for..($159 for boost rear with XD/$89 front). I can get SRAM 900s a little bit cheaper, and they seem to be around the same weight with the same engagement, so I'm trying to decide which way to go with the next build.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    Is there only the one source to buy these hubs or do they offer discount codes? It seems like most people bought theirs cheaper than the what the BHS lists them for..($159 for boost rear with XD/$89 front). I can get SRAM 900s a little bit cheaper, and they seem to be around the same weight with the same engagement, so I'm trying to decide which way to go with the next build.
    You can find them on Ali Express for cheaper. Heck... you can get the 28-hole set with straight pull 100x15 front and 142x12 rear for $133.00 shipped.

    Downsides are... you are not supporting Brandon at BHS and he has been a very good dude to a lot of those here (me included). I dont mind spending my money local (or in the USA for that matter) when I know there is good service/people behind it.

    Also... it takes 2-3 weeks to ship for Aliexpress.

    I dont mind linking it in this case because BHS does not stock this item. Brandon had them... but I dont think he is going to get them back in.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bite...809661675.html

  69. #469
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    You're paying a little extra with BHS for the warranty.... which is really very good. Its up there with the best. I suppose its up to you to decide what thats worth.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    You're paying a little extra with BHS for the warranty.... which is really very good. Its up there with the best. I suppose its up to you to decide what thats worth.
    Also a very good point. As I mentioned... Brandon has been very good to all of us who have done business with them. I have probably 8 orders from him.

    The only reason I consider buying the item I linked from Aliexpress is because BHS does not have the straight pull, 28-spoke, hubs listed. They did for a short period... and I emailed them to ask about them and if they would be back in stock. I have always gotten a reply from them but, for some reason, never got a reply to that inquiry.

  71. #471
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    So I ordered my hubs and rims (stans). Anyone mind double checking my calculation for spoke length?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-front.png  

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-rear.png  


  72. #472
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    I ran your measurements through Freespoke and got Front: 292/293.5 and rear:293.4/292.
    So, looks good.
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  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I ran your measurements through Freespoke and got Front: 292/293.5 and rear:293.4/292.
    So, looks good.
    Thanks, I guess the main thing I was concerned with was plugging in the measurement specs from BHS. Some of the measurement abbreviations were different from the ones used in the calculator.

    mtbr180 front

    Technical Information:

    Weight 182g
    Length (OLD) 100mm
    Bearings 2x TPI Sealed Cartridge
    PCD Left 58mm, Right 45mm
    Right Flange-to-Center 36mm
    Left Flange-to-Center 23mm
    Hole Diameter 2.6mm
    Axle Al-7075
    Body CNC Machined Al-6061


    mtb270 rear

    Weight 278g (QR), 267g (12mm Thru)
    Length 135mm or 142mm
    Bearings 4 sealed TPI bearings
    Pawls 6
    Driveside PCD 58mm
    Non-Driveside PCD 58mm
    NDS Flange-to-Center 34.14mm
    DS Flange-to-Center 19.54mm
    Hole Diameter 2.7mm
    Axle Al-7075
    Body CNC Machined Al-6061

  74. #474
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    As long as your not relying on website number for measurements. Brandon is awesome but I ran into the measurements being way off on the website versus in my hand for the fat bike hubs.

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  75. #475
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    Just wanted to add that even light riders can chew up an alu freehub. This is about 6 months of riding, averaged out to about 2 rides per week.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_20170920_183106.jpg

  76. #476
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    Ah- that bit of indent isn't an issue.
    It takes much more gouging to be an issue.
    When you have to use your chain whip to reverse drive the smaller cogs to remove them- it gets annoying.
    But even then everything still works fine.
    Even shift gates of cogs seem to sync fine.

    I haven't experienced that on these hubs, but know it can get much worse and still be fine.

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  77. #477
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    Fair enough, but the cassette was totally stuck on. I've since filed the tops of the gouges so my new cassette could go on.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoinSlot View Post
    Fair enough, but the cassette was totally stuck on. I've since filed the tops of the gouges so my new cassette could go on.
    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub

  79. #479
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    The aluminum freehubs now have steel inserts, no need for a full steel one.

  80. #480
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    Steel inserts?
    I take it all back. Sure I've seen the aluminum freehibs gouge a bit but I've never experienced any actual problems due to it (except the occasional issues with cassette removal though that's more minor hurdle than real issue)

    But....
    Steel inserts? Well crap. That sounds like a perfect compromise.
    I just placed a BHS order. Wish I'd know.
    But thanks.

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  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    The aluminum freehubs now have steel inserts, no need for a full steel one.
    IDK, I've still dug the cassette into freehubs with the "anti-bite" steel inserts. (AC hub) Unless it was a race wheelset, I'd personally still choose a steel freehub.

    I was pretty surprised the first time I removed the cassette from my Bitex fatbike hub. (Non steel insert version) Even the 11t cog was dug in. I've not seen that before and my thought is that the aluminum Bitex freehubs are softer than most.

    Not the end of the world, it will be replaced with a steel one, just wish I knew that going in. I also wish it was an option when buying, like Hope, instead of being something that's an immediate and necessary upgrade.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  82. #482
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    I'm at about 1000 miles on my BHS hubs, been completely solid so far. I'm about #200, push a bigger gear than I probably should, so I'm thinking these are great hubs for the price..

  83. #483
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    I just did a service on my son's 907 built with BHS hubs about two years ago. He said his brakes needed to be bled. I bled the brakes, replaced the pads, oiled the chain and washed it. I am amazed how fast and long the rear wheel coasted in the stand.
    Made me think yet again how awesome these hubs are.
    I like turtles

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvibert View Post
    I had the same thing happen to my hub last season, after only a few hundred miles. I'm heavy and ride hard, but no drops whatsoever. When I removed the wheel to do some maintenance the freehub and cassette fell off the rest of the wheel. The freehub body (aluminum) showed gouging similar to the pictures from a few posts ago. I replaced the hub axle and rode it for a couple of months before the freehub started making noise and sticking occasionally when freewheeling. I switched to my backup wheel and am now in the process of picking out the parts for a new wheel, probably with a Hope hub. I may replace the freehub on this hub and keep it as a backup, but I won't ride it as a primary wheel anymore.

    Attachment 1127024

    Attachment 1127025
    I have had this exact same issue - I contacted Brandon and he said it was an isolated incident and sent me a new one quickly. I was doing some maintenance a while back and noticed a groove getting cut into the sleeve again, so i emailed Brandon to make him aware there is something going on with this hub but never received a response.

    Fast forward to a few weeks ago - I pulled the rear wheel to do some maintenance and cassette hit the ground which really pissed me off (they aren't cheap if damaged). Not to my surprise the sleeve broke again, I emailed Brandon hoping he could send a replacement and no response. I got the wheel rigged back on the bike so I can at least ride it but pretty disappointed with the lack of response when there is obviously something going on here.

    I will probably just go ahead and purchase a new sleeve (they aren't that expensive) since it doesn't seem Brandon is willing to help the second time around but it seems this will be a 1-2x a year replacement part for me.

    Other than that the hub has been good.

  85. #485
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    ^^^^i do not understand how y'all are snapping the axle.

    QR frame?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    ^^^^i do not understand how y'all are snapping the axle.

    QR frame?
    I have a thru-axle - 12x142, I am not even sure how either but its happening.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    I have a thru-axle - 12x142, I am not even sure how either but its happening.
    Same here, 12x142. I don't understand how it happens either, but it does.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    pretty disappointed with the lack of response when there is obviously something going on here.
    He's much better responding through phone. I've been a little miffed by unanswered emails in the past as well, but to Brandon's point, I should have just picked up the phone.

    Still, it would be nice to see him get a better handle on this. One of the perils of being a small business owner, I guess.

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvibert View Post
    Same here, 12x142. I don't understand how it happens either, but it does.
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.
    I have had my last two emails to Brandon go unanswered as well.

    Funny that you mention that spacer. The last email I sent to him was trying to source the spacer as I lost mine when I was servicing my hub about a month back. I was unable to locate a new one... and even went to my LBS. However, they did have one the exact size I needed made out of nylon that seemed very sturdy. We put it in there as a temporary fix.

    If it is that space that is wearing a groove in the sleeve and snapping it... I wonder if my quick-fix might actually be better as nylon should not where a groove in a metal sleeve?

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.
    In my case I'm not using a XD driver. I'm not sure if the same spacer exists with the standard freehub.. I haven't looked at the hub since I stopped using it.

  92. #492
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    Hammering the daylights out of this hub for just over 2 years. Not one peep then broken axle. Honestly not too bummed and will gladly order another on Monday, just a bit argh since I waited till Friday night to do my maintenance and find it. Gravel bike for the weekend I guess. Wom wom.

    12x142 bolt on with XD driver

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

  93. #493
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    Same thing here x3. Clearly a fatigue problem. Recently blew up the hub (lots of cracked metal) so now went with the full steel hub which has a pair of bearings (3 total). Hope the flex of the axle is a little less thereby extending fatigue life of the axle sleeve and also getting rid of gouging to boot. If that blows, well maybe time for a whole new wheel.
    Front is dope though, little plain and dorky looking but does the job just fine. The best looking hubs ever came from Cane Creek, but for some reason they bailed on hubs about 5 years ago and stopped supplying anything wheel.

  94. #494
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    Has anyone here broken an axle w/ a steel freehub?
    Anyone know if BHS offers some more burly axle?

    Think CKing used to offer such items to save the day when some burly rider kept blowing things up.

    -JCBs
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    Running is for prey.

  95. #495
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    For me, after about a year in (not too bad), inner freehub bearing went bad 2x, then the axle broke, then a bearing again, then a shaft and finally the freehub spilt open where the bearing lives. So was it then the first bad bearing that caused the shaft to fail (not supported in that area) and then hub or vice versa? Steel freehub has two bearing so depending on root cause all of my problems they should go away -right. I banked on this theory and went with the doublewide bearing setupand crossing my fingers and so far so good (5 months in).The only real answer to the shaft breakage problem is a steel shaft (or Ti) because this issue is a fatigue problem and there is no more room for thicker aluminum.
    BUT, the fact that the tolerances are such that you cant just torque the nuts and load the bearings perfectly like a high end hub, it means that depending on how tight you torque the nuts, it significantly changes the game. My bearings could have been toasted by my setup all along, leading to the other problems. These are simple deep groove bearings but are being forced into working like a cup and cone set up, i.e., too tight, lots of drag and blown bearings or too loose and sloppy wheel/break rub. I've tried bearing shims but cant get it quite right and then kind of sniff a little when I think about how did I get here and how much time I'm spending on this. And as the price creeps up.....
    BTW im 205# and ride hard but no big drops or crazy air...too old and just glad to be riding. Now that I think about it, too loose torque may also be part of the shaft breakage problem because the shaft can bend more (i think?) with this loading. Net, keep your preload just right!
    Hope that helps.

  96. #496
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    How much has this axle been running you guys when talking to Brandon? Did I see somebody above got one replaced for free? I am going to try picking up 3 of them, 1 to replace mine, 1 for backup, and 1 for a buddy's backup! haha.

    And boost/non-boost both been snapping axles?

  97. #497
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    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.
    They have been good for me. I have about 2,000 miles on them and have not encountered an issue.

    HOWEVER... I am going to build a set of wheels this winter through Carbonfan... and will be opting for DT 350's with the 54T upgrade.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.
    Having held a SRAM900 and a BHS in my hands at the same time, I could be convinced they're the same hub.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Having held a SRAM900 and a BHS in my hands at the same time, I could be convinced they're the same hub.
    Interdasting. I have the 900. We should measure our axle wall thicknesses and compare.

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