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  1. #301
    Rocks belong
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    How many and how long?


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    Quantity: more than 5, less than 10
    Duration: 3+ years
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  2. #302
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    My two pairs have been great for about a year. Has anyone tried the boost version of the hub yet? It's quite a bit heavier.

  3. #303
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    Anyone know of any coupon codes available right now? Looking to make an order.

  4. #304
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    I don't know about coupon codes but they do have a package special for front/rear combo MTB180/270 Hubsets - $30.00 Off . I've been liking my MTB270. I'm a 250# 6'1" clydesadale who's broken several Shimano freehubs over the years.

  5. #305
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    The black set shows RED in the description. I will call them monday and see. I hope they still have this deal next friday because thats when I have to place my order after a mishap within the past hour, lol

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    The black set shows RED in the description. I will call them monday and see. I hope they still have this deal next friday because thats when I have to place my order after a mishap within the past hour, lol
    For the black set order from this page BLACK MTB180 / MTB270 Hubset with Bitex Logo - 32/32 - $30.00 off! . I don't see anything about red in the description there.

    Edit: I see where you are talking about in the first link. You have to select either red or black by clicking on the choices and the select which axle types you want. That would be the second link that I just posted.

  7. #307
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    Jesus what a deal.
    Dang. Now I need to find a reason to have more hubs... which grow into bikes, which grow into conversations about "why do you have so many bikes that are kind of the same?"
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  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Jesus what a deal.
    Dang. Now I need to find a reason to have more hubs... which grow into bikes, which grow into conversations about "why do you have so many bikes that are kind of the same?"
    Hmm....somehow that sounds very familiar...
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  9. #309
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    So I bought the mtb270 in ano blue and holy hell does this thing feel quality! No clue how they do it but I'm glad. I laced it to a wtb KOM i29 27.5 using sapim d light spokes (2.0/1.65)

    Came out feeeling exceptionally light for a rear 29mm rim. I'll be mounting it all up this afternoon to my filthy trail bike. Toocold to wash!


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  10. #310
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    I used these hubs on a CX build in the summer of 2015. Used it a bunch but in the end that bike just wasn't comfy enough to allow me to love it. (Carbon thru axle frame/fork for sale? Anyone? I'm motivated. $250?)
    But, these perfect hubs will make a move onto whatever frame takes it's place.
    It's likely to be a steel frame and will be used for endless long days.

    Of the bits and parts I'm considering for the new build, the one part I haven't given a second thought to are the wheels and these hubs.
    They're just perfect. And remain to be so.

    Go ride.
    Snowing hard here, so if you can- go ride.
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  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    So I bought the mtb270 in ano blue and holy hell does this thing feel quality! No clue how they do it but I'm glad. I laced it to a wtb KOM i29 27.5 using sapim d light spokes (2.0/1.65)

    Came out feeeling exceptionally light for a rear 29mm rim. I'll be mounting it all up this afternoon to my filthy trail bike. Toocold to wash!


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    Man! Nice. Unfortunately it doesn't appear the boost hubs are in anything but black. Make planning a 17 model bike tough! The blue looks great tho. I'm running reds right now.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Man! Nice. Unfortunately it doesn't appear the boost hubs are in anything but black. Make planning a 17 model bike tough! The blue looks great tho. I'm running reds right now.
    I'm glad you said they make a boost hub. I'll have to look into that. I'm planning on building a norco torrent ht+ and will be needing boost hubs for that.


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  13. #313
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    Was looking at their boost hubs but it does not spec # of spoke holes. Anybody know?

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisyews View Post
    Was looking at their boost hubs but it does not spec # of spoke holes. Anybody know?
    The front shows 32. I'm sure the rears are as well.
    I like turtles

  15. #315
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    Just ordered a set of the sale hubs. Hard to beat a set of reliable hubs for under $150.

    Looking at building up another set of wheels for my single speed. Bike is an On-one Inbred SS. Horizontal track end dropouts.

    What hub do I want? Do I get a 10x135mm thru axle and get a DT RWS axle? Will that work? Seems better than using a XT QR.

    Or is there a way to use the MTB270 hub with a bolt on axle?

    Thanks and glad I found out about this thread and these hubs

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Just ordered a set of the sale hubs. Hard to beat a set of reliable hubs for under $150.

    Looking at building up another set of wheels for my single speed. Bike is an On-one Inbred SS. Horizontal track end dropouts.

    What hub do I want? Do I get a 10x135mm thru axle and get a DT RWS axle? Will that work? Seems better than using a XT QR.

    Or is there a way to use the MTB270 hub with a bolt on axle?

    Thanks and glad I found out about this thread and these hubs
    One of my friends has a Surly Krampus which has horizontal dropouts too. He has BHS hubs and Shimano quick release skewers. Never gives him an ounce of trouble.
    He's running gears but I don't see how that would make any difference.
    I like turtles

  17. #317
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    I run qr on my sliding dropout frames. No issues. Make sure it's a closed cam and a quality skewer. Salsa, hope, xt all work

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  18. #318
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    I remember some story about a QR lawsuit years ago. Like 1995 or so. A QR had opened so an independent company was testing various QRs to see what worked and what didn't.

    As your basic shop kid- the choice seemed easy no simple. GO w/ the Salsa of course.
    But the test company (that's who I was talking w/) found out that Shimano QRs were the tightest by a significant margin.

    2nd story- Know a guy who's all about his Surly w/ some horizontal drops. But when he gets big air or some such he had axle slippage. So I told him that same QR story. Now he uses Shimano. Boring and zero on the Bling scale. But his problems are over.

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  19. #319
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    Yeah, I was originally going with the XT, just wondering if a 10mm thru axle with a RWS would be better. or if there was a "bolt on" thru axle option.

  20. #320
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    BHS has so many end caps, I wouldn't be surprised if they offer some that that would work w/ a RWS.
    Would love to hear from anyone that can confirm whether a bolt on RWS style is actually tighter than the QR designs. Seems obvious that the bolt on would be tightest but heck if I know for sure.
    Anyone?
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  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    BHS has so many end caps, I wouldn't be surprised if they offer some that that would work w/ a RWS.
    Would love to hear from anyone that can confirm whether a bolt on RWS style is actually tighter than the QR designs. Seems obvious that the bolt on would be tightest but heck if I know for sure.
    Anyone?
    Just ordered the Loaded AmX Step Down Axle from Bluesky as it measures at 12.08mm for a snug fit in my just ordered MTB270, the thru axle bolts down for added security from slipping QR lever and theft. I will be trading out the Loaded supplied axle nuts for Problem Solvers Tracked nuts.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  22. #322
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    Anyone know if the boost hub is also 55 poe?

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  23. #323
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    PDX-
    Thanks. In one post you helped answer more than one question I've had for various builds I have.
    The loaded axle is a great solution.
    It's good for me to wander into web pages I've never seen!
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  24. #324
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    Anyone using the BOOST Bitex Hubs - BX 210 series? Looks like a new model also out but not listed via BHS

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamper11 View Post
    Anyone using the BOOST Bitex Hubs - BX 210 series? Looks like a new model also out but not listed via BHS
    It looks to me to be the same as BHS MTB148, which as we know BHS hubs are unbranded Bitex hubs. According to the specs the weights are the same as well as the PCD.

    The top photo is the BHS MTB148

    Name:  MTBBOOST-2T.jpg
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    The bottom is the Bitex BX210R

    Name:  boost-rear.png
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    Unless I'm mistaken they both use the freehub that has all six pawls locking at the same time which probably means less POE.

    Name:  R07-M2C2Z Freehub.png
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    R07-M2C2Z
    MTB : 6 pawls working together
    Alloy Freehub body
    6 pawls working together
    For Shimano 10s / 11s
    For MTB ( Heavy Duty )

    Bearing option:
    steel Bearings
    Stainless Steel Bearings
    Ceramic Bearings
    Japanese Ceramics Bearings

    Weight:79.9g
    Material:Alloy ( 7075 )
    Bearings:3 ( 6802*2 + 6902*1 )
    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    It looks to me to be the same as BHS MTB148, which as we know BHS hubs are unbranded Bitex hubs. According to the specs the weights are the same as well as the PCD.

    The top photo is the BHS MTB148

    Name:  MTBBOOST-2T.jpg
Views: 888
Size:  32.9 KB

    The bottom is the Bitex BX210R

    Name:  boost-rear.png
Views: 896
Size:  179.8 KB


    Unless I'm mistaken they both use the freehub that has all six pawls locking at the same time which probably means less POE.

    Name:  R07-M2C2Z Freehub.png
Views: 904
Size:  200.3 KB
    R07-M2C2Z
    MTB : 6 pawls working together
    Alloy Freehub body
    6 pawls working together
    For Shimano 10s / 11s
    For MTB ( Heavy Duty )

    Bearing option:
    steel Bearings
    Stainless Steel Bearings
    Ceramic Bearings
    Japanese Ceramics Bearings

    Weight:79.9g
    Material:Alloy ( 7075 )
    Bearings:3 ( 6802*2 + 6902*1 )
    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub
    I just checked the drawings for both and the are in fact the same hubs.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-p-569471f4261c3.png
    Name:  MTBBOOST-3T.jpg
Views: 864
Size:  34.4 KB

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by yourrealdad View Post
    Just ordered a set of the sale hubs. Hard to beat a set of reliable hubs for under $150.

    Looking at building up another set of wheels for my single speed. Bike is an On-one Inbred SS. Horizontal track end dropouts.

    What hub do I want? Do I get a 10x135mm thru axle and get a DT RWS axle? Will that work? Seems better than using a XT QR.

    Or is there a way to use the MTB270 hub with a bolt on axle?

    Thanks and glad I found out about this thread and these hubs
    I too have an older 110/135 dropout frame and recently got a bundle deal from BHS with the 180/270 hubs plus Pacenti TL28 rims/Sapim, etc. (1595g wheelset for little over $300, sweet) and decided to go RWS instead of regular QR. Just get the 9mm/10mm endcap option and you'll be good to go. Thread on RWS here: dt swiss thru bolt vs. dt swiss RWS mtb skewers vs. regular skewer
    but disregard the negative comments about plastic skewer arm breakage as they are all aluminum now. Search Amazon or Jenson, etc. to find deals on the RWS as they can be had pretty cheap now since everything is thru bolt last few years.
    These aren't the exact same hubs, but here is how to replace the end caps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=py4Qy_wJmy4

  28. #328
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    I have 2 sets of Bitex/BHS hubs. The older set is about 4 years old and the only problem I've ever had was I broke a pawl. It was an older model 270 and it took BHS awhile to find to correct freehub but I got it. They changed the freehub design and my hub was not compatible with the new design or even XD drivers. Other than that I have had zero issues.

    The newer ones are about 18 months old. Again never a problem until I tried to install an XD driver. It poped right on and when I tightend axle, the driver bound up. When put into the frame with the maxle it would bind up even more. Finally figured out I have to leave the hub axle about a 1/2 to 3/4 turn from tight to stop the binding. I also cannot run the maxle at full tightness.

    I may get a shimano compatible Sunrace cassette to stop the binding and its cheaper than the SRAM cassette.

    I love these hubs despite the minor problems that are easily fixable that I won't be going back to super high end hubs anytime soon....unless they were free.

    Also Orgin8 uses Bitex as their elite classic hubs. So you can get a Freehub body that is the same as the BHS/BITEX hubs if your shop is a J&B dealer.
    Last edited by danmtchl; 01-26-2017 at 09:35 PM.

  29. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    Unless I'm mistaken they both use the freehub that has all six pawls locking at the same time which probably means less POE.
    I was curious recently so i pulled the freehub/axle out of one of my 270's. after counting 54 clicks with it installed, i counted the notches on the ratchet. it had 27. so the 6 pawls are offset and engage 3 at a time.

    if you look closely at the pic of that freehub you attached, it looks like the pawls are arranged in three pairs. kind of hard to tell exactly from that pic alone, but if you dig a little deeper you'll find this pic on other websites.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-screen-shot-2017-01-26-8.44.44-pm.jpg

    I know the 270 and the fatbike rear hub share the same drive mechanism. i would guess the boost is similar.
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  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    I was curious recently so i pulled the freehub/axle out of one of my 270's. after counting 54 clicks with it installed, i counted the notches on the ratchet. it had 27. so the 6 pawls are offset and engage 3 at a time.

    if you look closely at the pic of that freehub you attached, it looks like the pawls are arranged in three pairs. kind of hard to tell exactly from that pic alone, but if you dig a little deeper you'll find this pic on other websites.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen shot 2017-01-26 at 8.44.44 PM.jpg 
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ID:	1117945

    I know the 270 and the fatbike rear hub share the same drive mechanism. i would guess the boost is similar.
    Yes I am aware that the 270 has that set up but if you look on Bitex's website you will see that the RO7-M2C2Z freehub is the only one that is listed as "heavy duty" and is listed as "6 pawls working together." If you then click on each hub to view the details all of them except the RO7-M2C2Z show the "A-team and B-team" picture.
    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub
    That is what makes me think that it could be different with less POE.

  31. #331
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    I have a problem with my MTB270 rear hub. If I pedal the bike in the stand, and let it freewheel, the freehub is dragging and the cranks continue to spin. All it takes is one finger to stop the cranks and they will stay still if you let them go while the wheel continues to spin.

    I pulled the freehub off and cleaned it up with a little alcohol and a rag. The pawls sprang freely, the spacer was in place, bearings are smooth and play free. I reassembled with one drop of Phil's Tenacious Oil on each pawl pivot, a very light coat of Maxima waterproof grease on the ratchet teeth, and a little grease on the seal but it continues to drag.

    One thing that concerns me is there are teeth marks on the freehub body between a couple of the pawls. They are not deep enough to catch a fingernail but thre has been enough contact to wear the anodizing off. I did notice once the axle end cap had loosened so that may have been the cause of the marks.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by erb16 View Post
    One thing that concerns me is there are teeth marks on the freehub body between a couple of the pawls. They are not deep enough to catch a fingernail but thre has been enough contact to wear the anodizing off. I did notice once the axle end cap had loosened so that may have been the cause of the marks.
    I haven't taken one of these apart but am interested in them for a future build. Some of the other lightweight but inexpensive hubs have had problems with axle flex when run in a QR configuration, so under heavy riders, or high pedaling/impact loads the axle would bow in the middle and allow the cassette body to come out of alignment with the hub shell and ratchet ring, potentially digging and tearing things up as you describe. On these hubs, is the axle end cap that you mention a key part of the axle stiffness?

    Regarding the binding, does axle end cap or through axle tightness affect the situation as in the example danmtchl posted above with his hub and the XD driver?

  33. #333
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    I just got this hub with my new wheelset. Is it okay to have a little play sideways? I just noticed it and I didn't notice it on my previous wheelset.

  34. #334
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    Nope, you should tighten the 2 endcaps so that there is no play and not so tight that you can't spin the wheel by hand.
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  35. #335
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    Any one using the 150mm? How do you like them?

  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow poke View Post
    Any one using the 150mm? How do you like them?
    Front fat bike hub? I have two of em and like them just fine. All I care about is that it's black and rolls nice. Hit on both counts. I also have a couple Salsa 150mm hubs, two 907 and a Hope. The ones I like the least are the Salsa because they have Salsa emblazoned across them in script. Looks a little sloppy. I know... White people problems.
    I like turtles

  37. #337
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    lol- actually looking for a good rear hub 150mm. I like black too- and red.

    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Front fat bike hub? I have two of em and like them just fine. All I care about is that it's black and rolls nice. Hit on both counts. I also have a couple Salsa 150mm hubs, two 907 and a Hope. The ones I like the least are the Salsa because they have Salsa emblazoned across them in script. Looks a little sloppy. I know... White people problems.

  38. #338
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    Remind me again about using the cassette spacer with the hub...will I need to use it when putting an 11 speed XT 11x42 cassette on the hub?

  39. #339
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    I just put on an XT 11x42 on a hub that had a 10-spd cassette on it, didn't use a spacer and shifts great. If it makes a difference it was a Spec Roval wheel.
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  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    Remind me again about using the cassette spacer with the hub...will I need to use it when putting an 11 speed XT 11x42 cassette on the hub?
    The 1.8mm spacer is needed for freehub that are built to take 11 speed road cassettes. Those are the ones that need the spacer for the 10 or 11 speed MTB cassettes. You can see a bit of that explanation here at the start of this video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_gkh4uGto
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  41. #341
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    Just had a set of BHS hubs delivered, they are very nice looking! Smooth bearings, nice finish, seems like a great value. Just waiting on my rims to show up so I can order spokes.. hope they work as good as they look!

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaXCarp View Post
    Remind me again about using the cassette spacer with the hub...will I need to use it when putting an 11 speed XT 11x42 cassette on the hub?
    Yeah. You need the spacer.
    I like turtles

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graveldad View Post
    Just had a set of BHS hubs delivered, they are very nice looking! Smooth bearings, nice finish, seems like a great value. Just waiting on my rims to show up so I can order spokes.. hope they work as good as they look!
    You and me both. I initially ordered a Stan's 3.30 hub, but picked this one up soon after because it'll last more than ten minutes.

  44. #344
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    BHS hubs are great. The aluminum freehubs are kind of soft so don't use cassettes that don't have aluminum carriers. I bought the steel freehub and been flawless. And that's the 170mm one. I will be using their hubs in any wheel builds for my bikes from now on. Though I like Shimano hubs (angular contact bearings), BHS can rotate between axle standards, parts are available, engagement is REALLY nice and put up with winter riding quite well.

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  45. #345
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    Yes, I'd say RAKC nailed it.

    I too have always had a soft spot for the undersung and overbuilt Shimano hubs. Bulletproof and invincible though a shade behind in axle swap tech.

    But the BHS hubs just shine in their quiet versatile way.

    New dropbar build coming, it'll be BHS again.

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  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Yeah. You need the spacer.
    Huh... I now see it on the XT cass box but don't know how to parse that in relation to these hubs. My congnative dissonance realized - I've been running XT8000 on a BHS 270 rear hub for over a year without it and it's been great so double huh. Asking BHS to confirm. Mounted up the sans spacer looks normal to me and with spacer seems to push it out too far. Need to check on the hardtail w/ spacer - who knew?

    But to chime in - I have 3.5 sets of these (3R, 4F) and they are my goto for doing a no hassle, cheap reliable build. 2 Shimano FH, 1 XD driver. Fast engagement but has freehub some drag compared say my Hadleys; Hadleys and CK have less bearing resistance too. So not bling/boutique but if you want high engagement for reasonable price- here you go.

  47. #347
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    I had to use a spacer with my sunrace 10-speed wide range cassette. At first I put it on without the spacer, because I didn't know better, and in one ride it quickly gouged up the freehub because the smallest 4 rings had some play (the other 6 big rings were on carriers). Barely perceptible, but enough. Put on the spacer and it's much better. After a year of riding, showing some signs of gouging, but nothing like that first ride.
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  48. #348
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    If you are fat like me you might want to upgrade to the HD steel freehub right away.

    This is what mine looks like after 1.5 seasons of riding. It started to make clunking sounds when engaging, so I figured a pawl spring or something was a miss. Turns out 4 springs are shot. The pawls have deformed the hub, and there is evidence of the ratchet teeth gouging the hub. Also, I had a very hard time getting the cassette off. I had to use a mallet to get each gear disengaged from the hub and the a screwdriver to pry them off. I will have to use a file to get the spacer removed.




  49. #349
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    no hub is bullet proof just ask jonshonda about his experiences. Not sure what cassette you used but some have the 5 inner cogs riveted to a billet carrier that will help alleviate much of the drive damage you experienced.
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  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    no hub is bullet proof just ask jonshonda about his experiences. Not sure what cassette you used but some have the 5 inner cogs riveted to a billet carrier that will help alleviate much of the drive damage you experienced.
    Yeah, many manufacturers of alloy freehubs recommend only using cassettes that have a spider carrier to reduce this sort of damage. I am a big fan of the one-piece cassettes such as SRAM XX or XX1, which aren't susceptible to this, but the cost is somewhat prohibitive. The middle-ground of having the largest gears on a spider is usually fine, since only the largest gears apply the most torque.

    It's too bad that titanium has gotten so expensive, it was a great material for freehubs in the past. Steel freehubs do last longest, though.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by banjor View Post
    It's too bad that titanium has gotten so expensive, it was a great material for freehubs in the past.
    The White bros XMR hubs have Ti freehubs..

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dscn1825.jpgInitial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dscn1823.jpg
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  52. #352
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    The cassette is a mid grade SRAM 10 speed. The 2 largest cogs are on a carrier. I'm not saying BHS hubs have a flaw. I do. I'm too fat for biking. I ordered a steel freehub right away. The stronger material and extra bearing will hopefully help it last longer.

  53. #353
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    Sure some cassettes might do less damage to the freehub than others but if it says it's compatible? It's compatible. Or should be (hopefully)!

    But what about the hub shell damage.
    Can you tell us more about that?

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  54. #354
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    around each pawl the material is locally deformed. You can feel it is raised up and pushed out. The surface is crazed from all of the fracturing in the material. The outside diameter has come into contact with the hub shell as can be seen in the picture. Only a couple pawls springs still work, but that could be an effect and not the cause.

    I really like these hubs and don't want anyone to not get them. Just be aware, if you are a fat pig like me, you might want to look at the HD steel freehub sooner than later. The tougher material and extra bearing hopefully will make it last longer.

  55. #355
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    Thanks Slow. Now that I look at your photos on a screen that isn't my phone- I see the swelling? Swells? Uh....

    Do these humps interfered in any way w/ the FH's interface w/ the hub shell?

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  56. #356
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    They did not. The hub is recessed in this area enough that there was no rubbing.

  57. #357
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    Huh, I had the inner 142 axle sleeve on my MTB270 completely crack when going down a 2 ft drop yesterday...I'd only ridden the hub for about 400 miles. Kind of alarming; I've never had an axle on a bike break like that before. I'm going to replace the axle unit and keep riding it for now, but I'm definitely going to view the hub with a little more suspicion from here on out.

  58. #358
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    Are you talking the axle for the frame or the hub itself?

    I'm 280lbs and hammer the hell out of my 170mm version on my fat bike (use steel freehub though, I know better than to use aluminum freehubs). Don't even know how many miles couple hundred at least in nasty winter conditions, mud everything. Not afraid of small jumps/drops whatever. No even a single tiny whimper from the hub.

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  59. #359
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    It was the sleeve within the hub that supports the frame's thru-axle that cracked, not the frame's thru-axle. I'm a "light clydesdale" (215lbs) and while I'm fairly hard on my gear I'm also a bit of a wuss.

  60. #360
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    Was this on a hardtail or fs? What size tire? Just curious...
    I like turtles

  61. #361
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    I got the new steel freehub installed. They must have made a few tweaks because it seems to be even quicker to engage and is MUCH quieter than the aluminum freehub.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride454 View Post
    If you are fat like me you might want to upgrade to the HD steel freehub right away.

    This is what mine looks like after 1.5 seasons of riding. It started to make clunking sounds when engaging, so I figured a pawl spring or something was a miss. Turns out 4 springs are shot. The pawls have deformed the hub, and there is evidence of the ratchet teeth gouging the hub. Also, I had a very hard time getting the cassette off. I had to use a mallet to get each gear disengaged from the hub and the a screwdriver to pry them off. I will have to use a file to get the spacer removed.



    It's easy to end up with damage like this one these hubs if the axle is run loose. I'm not saying that's what you did, but I did damage to the pawl area like yours has on the AL freehub body on my BHS hubs when the axle loosened. I ended up going with the steel free hub body and have not had any issues since.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Was this on a hardtail or fs? What size tire? Just curious...
    It was on my hardtail, running a 29x2.2 tire. The axle shell fractured right at the interface between the freehub body and the hub shell. Maybe my riding was outside the design specification, although there's nothing in the description about the hub only being for XC riding, or anything of a weight limit.

    FWIW, I'm running the alloy freehub body with an XT 11sp cassette, and the freehub body seems fine (no significant gouges)

  64. #364
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    I was only asking because I really only ride plus and fat bikes and I break NOTHING. My theory is that the higher volume tires protect everything.
    I like turtles

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggrumble View Post
    It was the sleeve within the hub that supports the frame's thru-axle that cracked, not the frame's thru-axle. I'm a "light clydesdale" (215lbs) and while I'm fairly hard on my gear I'm also a bit of a wuss.
    Bummer to hear about that. I would view it as an isolated event though. I've got two sets, one 142mm, one 150mm. I ride the 142 a lot more (my daily driver trail bike) and holy moly I beat the tar out of this thing. Big heavy drops, rock gardens, high speed hits, jumps, I mean I hammer this thing.

    Hope you can get set up again pretty cheaply and keep charging!

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post

    Quote Originally Posted by slowride454 View Post
    If you are fat like me you might want to upgrade to the HD steel freehub right away.

    This is what mine looks like after 1.5 seasons of riding. It started to make clunking sounds when engaging, so I figured a pawl spring or something was a miss. Turns out 4 springs are shot. The pawls have deformed the hub, and there is evidence of the ratchet teeth gouging the hub. Also, I had a very hard time getting the cassette off. I had to use a mallet to get each gear disengaged from the hub and the a screwdriver to pry them off. I will have to use a file to get the spacer removed.



    It's easy to end up with damage like this one these hubs if the axle is run loose. I'm not saying that's what you did, but I did damage to the pawl area like yours has on the AL freehub body on my BHS hubs when the axle loosened. I ended up going with the steel free hub body and have not had any issues since.
    I just pulled my hub apart for cleaning last night and noticed almost exactly the same thing except I did not have any deformation of the freehub in the pawl seat areas. End cap was loose (almost finger tight)....for how long I don't know. Freehub was chewed up between the pawls and I had a hell of a time getting the cassette off. Once disassembled I filed down the high spots on the splines, relubed, reassembled and tightened down the end caps....I've been thinking about it all day though and just ordered a new heavy duty steel freehub for peace of mind and ease of cassette replacement. I did notice a random pop sound once in a while under heavy load but it was never consistent and only happened a few times over months of riding so I attributed it to dirty chain on dirty cassette teeth and being fairly worn drivetrain....that still may have been what those sounds were for all I know.

    It should be noted that I'm in the ultra uber clyde category at 300 lbs riding and I'm not very smooth at all....pretty much everything on/in a bicycle is subject to damage and a shortened life!
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  67. #367
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    It happens on the chris king freehubs too, but only the 3-4 outter cassette. I think even my hadley titanium freehub shows a little mark on the 3 small cassette. Seem to be much worst on the MTB 270 freehub though.
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  68. #368
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    I'd been running a cheap sram 10sp cassette that only had the two biggest cogs on a carrier. I'm putting a new drivetrain on as it is....Sunrace 11-40, 30T N/W and chain. That cassette has the six biggest cogs on two carriers so it wouldn't cause that much damage to an aluminum freehub to start with, but at my weight (lots) and riding style (unabashedly not smooth) the HD steel freehub with three bearings vs two bearings on the aluminum will help considerably....I imagine.
    2013 Cannondale Trigger 29er

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Garden View Post
    I'd been running a cheap sram 10sp cassette that only had the two biggest cogs on a carrier. I'm putting a new drivetrain on as it is....Sunrace 11-40, 30T N/W and chain. That cassette has the six biggest cogs on two carriers so it wouldn't cause that much damage to an aluminum freehub to start with, but at my weight (lots) and riding style (unabashedly not smooth) the HD steel freehub with three bearings vs two bearings on the aluminum will help considerably....I imagine.
    As stated above, I destroyed one of the aluminum free hub bodies with both pawl spring damage, pawl shoulder area damage and free hub spline damage. 600 miles ago I put the steel free-hub body on and it's been flawless ever since. I only weigh about 190 geared but this bike sees very very heavy usage like shuttle trails in laguna and 5-6 park days a year. You won't be disappointed with your choice.

    FWIW, I use slick honey to grease the pawls. I also use blue loctite on the axle end nuts.

  70. #370
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    My aluminum has a little bit of damage, but I'm not worried yet.
    Totally going steel when the time comes.

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  71. #371
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    It never came loose in two years....until it did it on it's own sometime near the end of last season. The last time (prior to the other night) I pulled the wheel they were tight enough I couldn't loosen them by hand and no play so I called it good. I rode about a month or so (guessing) after that before winter set in. Just doing a mid-winter full bike check/clean/lube and the nut was loose with play. I've never had to loctite the axle nut, but I will when I put the new freehub on....end check it more frequently.
    2013 Cannondale Trigger 29er

  72. #372
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    FWIW, I did contact BHS to see if they had an anti-bite freehub for the MT270 and Brandon is supposed to be sending me that in place of the all steel version at my request. It's not listed on their site at this time, but he does have them.

    Checking into Bitex's website I see they have several freehubs shown: anti-bite alloy (2 bearings), HD anti-bite (3 bearings) and all steel (3 bearings)

    Makes me wonder if the new BHS hubs are going to be coming with the anti-bite freehubs from the start now or at some point in the future?

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  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by biggrumble View Post
    It was the sleeve within the hub that supports the frame's thru-axle that cracked, not the frame's thru-axle. I'm a "light clydesdale" (215lbs) and while I'm fairly hard on my gear I'm also a bit of a wuss.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Bummer to hear about that. I would view it as an isolated event though. I've got two sets, one 142mm, one 150mm. I ride the 142 a lot more (my daily driver trail bike) and holy moly I beat the tar out of this thing. Big heavy drops, rock gardens, high speed hits, jumps, I mean I hammer this thing.

    Hope you can get set up again pretty cheaply and keep charging!
    I had the same thing happen to my hub last season, after only a few hundred miles. I'm heavy and ride hard, but no drops whatsoever. When I removed the wheel to do some maintenance the freehub and cassette fell off the rest of the wheel. The freehub body (aluminum) showed gouging similar to the pictures from a few posts ago. I replaced the hub axle and rode it for a couple of months before the freehub started making noise and sticking occasionally when freewheeling. I switched to my backup wheel and am now in the process of picking out the parts for a new wheel, probably with a Hope hub. I may replace the freehub on this hub and keep it as a backup, but I won't ride it as a primary wheel anymore.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-20160608_214803.jpg

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-20160608_214825.jpg

  74. #374
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    What is going on here? This thread started over two years ago, and had virtually nothing but glowing reviews, so three weeks ago I bought a set of BHS hubs. In the last two weeks, it's turned into a carnage thread!! Collapsed freehubs, broken axles, exploded hub shells.. I haven't built my wheels yet, should I be looking for something better?

  75. #375
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    Seriously... Similar to how the Koozer thread went a couple years ago. The only difference is that I damaged koozer freehubs in short order, and my BHS freehub is still fine after 7 or 8 months. Ill be taking my freehub off again this weekend for a proper inspection, but it hasn't given me a stitch of trouble after 600-700 hard (clyde) miles.

  76. #376
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    Nah- blow those complaints off.
    Not that they aren't valid- but they are the rare moment.
    There are way too many of these hubs out there running just fine to discount them due to a few complaints.

    I just (last night) built up a new steel frame using these hubs from a previous build.
    There are part concerns (will the 10s Shimano work well enough w/ a mtn shifter on a drop bar?), should I chop the Woodchippers down some?
    But the wheels? Nah- they won't be part of the issue. They'll do their job day after day.
    These hubs are a non-event. They just work.

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  77. #377
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    Yep. I build mostly with the fat hubs which I would think would have a higher rate of failure and so far, not one has come back.
    Anything will break. Look up some of Johnshonda's threads. He breaks Industry 9 and other high end hubs.
    I like turtles

  78. #378
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    I was curious as to how my freehub looks on mine. I'm a 260# clyde and I have about 800 miles on mine. I am also rough on freehubs as I have broken many over the years. Mine looks to be in great shape! I didn't see any of the deformations in the pawl sockets that slowride454 had.



    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-mtb270-1.jpg



    While I had it apart I put some Lucas Semi Synthetic Assembly Lube on the pawls just to see what happens. I had some left over from when I changed cams on my Harley. It is very sticky and prevents seizing, galling and scuffing. When I put it back together it was silent, not that it made much noise before as I thought it was a pretty quite hub to begin with. I will report back later as to how long the silence lasts.

  79. #379
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    Here's my xD freehub after 600-700 miles of hard clyde mashing with plus bike traction and 28/46 gearing.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-bitexfreehub.jpg

    My endcaps were snug but not tight. Id guess they were around 3 or 4 ft lbs. More than finger tight, but very easy to take apart with wrenches on the flats. I have a little bit of scoring from the freehub teeth, which means theres a little bit of axle deformation happening. I also see just the slightest bit of deformation in the pawl hinges, but nothing to worry about yet. I will say that the springs dont feel as stiff as they did when they were new. All in all, this freehub is holding up much better than my last ones. Its not the end of the world if I had to replace the freehub once every year of two, but for now Ill see how long this one lasts. I re-lubed up, and tightened the endcaps to roughly 10 ft lbs, ready to do more battle.

  80. #380
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    These hubs are so old now that some people have thousands of miles on them. The freehubs are a hard alloy, similar to DT and harder than most hubs out of Asia. That said, it's still aluminum. It'll dent in.

    IMO, these are end of the line hubs. If you can ruin a BHS hub, you need to buy something like a king with a steel fhb because nothing else would hold up anyway! You reached the limit of how durable something affordable can be.

  81. #381
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    Just a little update on my situation. I received the new freehub on Saturday. I did a very thorough inspection of everything (new and old). I noticed a slight mark all the way around the axle exactly where the inboard freehub bearing rests. I didn't grab a picture, but it's just slightly visible and you can feel it dragging a fingernail over it, but it's not a deep gouge or anything of the like. New freehub looks exactly like the old alloy one with the exception of three approximately 1mm thick steel (stainless steel?) reinforcement splines equally spaced around the freehub on the driving edge of the splines. I greased (lightly with slick honey) and assembled. I did apply blue loctite to the axle/nut interface and torqued precisely to 'that-feels-about-right' and put the cassette on reinstalled the wheel. Spins freely, feels good. I'll likely pull it after a month or so of riding and see how it looks.

    That ring is certainly from the axle flexing due to torque on the freehub. I surmise this won't happen if the axle/nut are tight. If I have to replace the axle so be it. I can't complain about a $100 hub that needs a little maintenance after two years. I have kept my old freehub for a spare as it still works fine, but has some deep bite marks in it and I felt better replacing it.

    The Sunrace cassette has only two cogs that are likely to bite in. The 11 & 13 both have the spacer built it so their load is spread over that area. The 15 & 18 are the only one that are single cog width and they now rest on a steel spline so that should help. The 21-28 and 32-40 are each on a carrier so no worries about biting in there.
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  82. #382
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    I have put about 1000 kms on mine. Totally problem free so far. I am not a clyde at 170 lbs but managed to bust two koozer hubs in short order before trying the BHS. I will check on the internals and report back to you guys.

  83. #383
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    Has anyone replaced the coil springs in the freehub? I wonder if its possible to get something a little heavier. I feel like my pawls have lost a good bit of spring, compared to new.

    I see the industry 9 springs, which are the only coil springs I can find for sale. I wonder if its worth a $5 gamble?

  84. #384
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    My first BHS wheels are built. My only concern is the free hub sounds sort of dry, I'll probably pull it open for some lubes tonight before riding tomorrow. Probably over thinking this... Built them up with Easton ARC30 rims and Wheelsmith butted spokes for my trail bike. Considering I haven't built a bicycle wheel in about 10 years the building went really well, about 6 hours for the pair, the front went together really easily, probably because I wasn't trying to hurry, lol! Did the rear with increased confidence after the front went so easily, the confidence was quickly shattered when the wheel laced way out of true. Had to back the tension off and redo the initial alignment, everything was easy after patience was forced upon me! I really enjoy the process, it's a great brain exercise..

    To anyone thinking wheel building is beyond your ability, or that you need a bunch of equipment, don't worry! I used the bike as a truing stand, did tension by sound, the only equipment I bought was a new spoke wrench. Worst case, you'll have to find someone to rework your wheels for you if you truly can't make them work, best case you'll have a set of wheels you'll be proud of for years. Try it!

  85. #385
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    With spokes in the right length, it's pretty hard to screw up a wheel build beyond repair. I did my first wheel ever with a BHS, Lasers, alloy nipples, and a carbon EIE rim... mostly using one arm. I ended up getting the dish wrong, but it wasn't hard to correct. It's all about nipple lubrication.

  86. #386
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    So here is the steel freehub:
    https://www.bikehubstore.com/product...b270-steel.htm

    It says it has an extra bearing for added support.

    Here is a question. This freehub is more durable and, heavier, than the normal one. Outside of being more durable, are there any other benefits over the normal? i.e. Better engagement, faster, etc?

  87. #387
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    Durability is it's only advantage. Weight is a disadvantage. Engagement remains unchanged.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Durability is it's only advantage. Weight is a disadvantage. Engagement remains unchanged.

    Thanks.

    I am pulling mine apart to swap the QR with a 10mm thru and will also re-grease if needed. Figured I could also swap the free hub if need be.

    I am curious to see what type of damage I did to mine... if any. I put it in July of last year and rode it heavily until mid-November. I was about 195 last year on a hard tail.

  89. #389
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    So I will finally get around to building myself a new rear this year. Reading back through the thread a few pages it is pretty much confirmed that the BITEX that BHS sells is the same as his hub (MTB270) correct? Only difference is the his is the 6-bolt and the Bitex is the Centerlock?

    Will plan to lace this up to a WTB i29 29er rim with DT Swiss spokes so that front and rear match (for the most part). Front currently is a WTB i29 with Formula hub (got luck and grabbed from REI last year when it was on sale for $99 shipped). Liking the wide rim so fa with my 2.4" tires (coming from a rim that is 19mm internal).

  90. #390
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    I pulled my freehub apart to check for grease, it was pretty much good to go from the factory. I added some heavy wet chain lube, seems quieter and smoother now. End caps were nice and tight, overall everything seemed properly set up out of the box. I've got about a hundred miles on mine so far, they're working perfectly. Time to forget about them and ride!

  91. #391
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    So I pulled my DX freehub out again last night, to measure the springs to see if I could source something a little stiffer. The freehub body doesnt look like its been gouged out any more than it did last time, but the hub still feels like its not engaging as "strong" as it should for lack of a better way to describe it. I suspect the pawls are not engaging on the rare occasion, and the freehub is skipping a tooth. I feel like stiffer springs will help with this.

    My verneer calipers gave me approx .080 OD, .065 ID, and .200 OAL for the spring. This leads me to believe the original springs are 2mm OD, 5mm OAL, and 0.2mm wire thickness. Keep in mind this is the XD driver, not the shimano freehub. I found a bag of 25 0.3mm x 2mm x 5mm springs for 8 bucks on ebay and pulled the trigger. Hopefully they will be a little stiffer, and give me a little more confidence. Theyll probably make the freehub a little noisier, which I'm fine with.

    While I was in there, I noticed two of the pawls felt like they had much lower tension than the others. I pulled the springs out and gently stretched them a bit. Upon reassembly, the pawls felt more even. The freehub sounds a bit better too as the spinning wheel clacks away.

    EDIT: Clarified the slow engagement.
    Last edited by GuitsBoy; 04-26-2017 at 08:05 AM.

  92. #392
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    In my BMX days, I remember riders obsessing over having a loud hub and going to great lengths to make the driver spring on their hub stronger. I think a few riders managed to cram two identical springs in their driver to do the job.
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  93. #393
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    My concern isn't so much about loudness. Its about positive pawl engagement. I dont think Id be able to get two springs under each pawl, but I could probably shim it with something if all else failed. Good luck getting it back out though...

  94. #394
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    Bike Roomer wrote that Wolftooph is going to make a carbon wrapped ti spring for these.

    After careful research they decided that pawl springs are the only thing left on any bikes that aren't insanely expensive.

    Supposed to be $75 per set.
    A steal though you can get em off Alibaba for $11 in a few months.

    There are even rumors of their new springs coming in orange to match your racer guy Fox fork.
    Sure you can't see them, but the ego wants what the ego wants.

    Back on point- I love these hubs. Moved them over to a better more sturdy build than their original home.

    Lots of miles, few centuries. Plenty of goop, snow, mud, rain, sun and all else (except submersion- oh, that too but only for a few seconds) and all is well.

    need hubs?
    these will work just fine.

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  95. #395
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    Man, You guys are BRUTAL.

    Sure the hubs are working just fine now, but I dont want them to suffer the same fate as the Koozers did (which had a great rep right up until we all started breaking them).

    I'm hoping a little tweak and some garage engineering might give me a little extra confidence in them. Or is customizing or altering a component from stock in any way completely anti-mountain biking now?

    But hey, If you've got a line on those carbon wrapped ti springs, I'm all ears. Did you happen to get a weight on those?

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    The freehub body doesnt look like its been gouged out any more than it did last time, but the hub still feels like its not engaging as "strong" as it should for lack of a better way to describe it.
    your looking for a problem that isn't there.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Sure the hubs are working just fine now, but I dont want them to suffer the same fate as the Koozers did (which had a great rep right up until we all started breaking them).
    Koozer hubs are no where near the quality of these hubs. Bitex hubs are most frequently compared to Hope and DT 350 hubs.

    But hey, If you've got a line on those carbon wrapped ti springs, I'm all ears. Did you happen to get a weight on those?
    your kidding right?
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  97. #397
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    With all due respect to the senior members of this thread, I disagree.

    I do have visible pawl socket deformation, and gouging on the freehub body from the teeth of the ratchet ring. When riding it occasionally will feel like the engagement is not as quick, or that the pawls skip one tooth before engaging. With the hub disassembled, two of the pawls had noticeably less spring tension than the other four. I am not simply imagining these things.

    Maybe the hub would have continued to live a long and fulfilling life on its own, and these minor issues never would have turned into anything threatening. But if I can make a small and inexpensive tweak to help insure it doesn't grenade under my clydeness, why do you guys feel the need to talk me out of it?

    Yes, I agree that these hubs are far better out of the box than the koozers are, but I'm not convinced theyre quite DT or Hope either. Thats not a bad thing, since theyre substantially cheaper, and work very well just the same.

    And yes, I was obviously kidding.

  98. #398
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    if your having a problem with your hub, i would contact BHS.
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  99. #399
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    In this case, "problem" is subjective. The freehub is not broken, and does not have any reproducible problems (issues are sporadic at best), aside from the gouges and deformation which may well be considered normal.

    I did however voice my concerns about the spring tension to Brandon, and he doesn't seem to think there's a problem judging by the pictures. He suspects its a pawl that may engage a little "late", which is known to happen with 6 pawl freehubs. He mentioned that they sell a ton of these hubs with a very low failure rate.

    Ever being the tinkerer, I decided to take matters into my own hands, and figured I'd post on the thread so anyone interested could follow along. I'm not disparaging the hubs, or saying theyre defective or insufficient in any way, I'm simply trying to "upgrade" them for my particular needs. I thought the measurements and info may be helpful to someone, somewhere. But it appears that the BIG BITEX lobbyists want to shut me down. (That's another joke, if you haven't had your coffee yet)

    But in all seriousness, it seems that you guys dont think this thread is the right place to post this stuff. I would have thought this was *Exactly* the right place to post it.

    EDIT: Updated the post regarding the response from BHS.
    Last edited by GuitsBoy; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:48 AM.

  100. #400
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    by all means, post up your info. yes your in the right place, and yes others may benefit from your experience.

    your initial description/reasoning was that it doesn't feel like it engages "strong". to me that sounds like you just don't know what your talking about, or how to articulate it. You didn't mention anything about slow engagement or skipping. that's a problem.

    can you post pics of the gouging your talking about?
    Rigid SS 29er
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