Industry Nine - Break-in .. Tight freewheel

[stunzeed]

Just got a set of the DH wheels, the freewheel is very tight ..so tight when I backpedal it makes the chain fold back

Any ideas of how long it will take to break in or what I can do to help?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[customfab]

I've had good luck taking the seal off the backside of the main bearing. It frees the hub up a little and doesn't change service intervals. I generally find their hubs to be a little tight just like almost every other high engagement hub though.

[Gman086]

That never breaks in. You need to take half the pawls out - drops the engagement some but drag is significantly less - you CAN notice it when coasting too. The high POE of their hubs comes at a price (wish I'd have known that before buying them - never again, sticking with Hadley from now on).

Have FUN!

G MAN

[Ace5high]

That never breaks in. You need to take half the pawls out - drops the engagement some but drag is significantly less - you CAN notice it when coasting too. The high POE of their hubs comes at a price (wish I'd have known that before buying them - never again, sticking with Hadley from now on).

Have FUN!

G MAN

Its not the pawls that cause the extra drag, but actually the large bearing seals are very tight. I did an experiment, by removing 3 pawls and leaving the seals in tact and then used all 6 pawls and removed the large bearing seals. Without the bearing seals the wheels spins as freely as any hub I've run

[Gman086]

You've owned them for a month and now you're an expert on them? Maybe you should let the bearings seat and get back to us. Whatever dude!

Have FUN!

G MAN

[aussie_yeti]

definitely the big bearing that is the interface between freehub body and hub shell. too much seal drag. remove one of the seals/both the seals/replace grease with light lube/replace entire bearing with good ceramic bearing including low drag seals. it's the only thing that frustrates me about the wheels.

running 3 pawls instead of 6 does make some difference, but the big bearing with high drag seals is the main culprit.

[Ace5high]

...You've owned them for a month and now you're an expert on them? Maybe you should let the bearings seat and get back to us. Whatever dude!

Have FUN!

G MAN
***************..

Actually I've only owned them for two weeks, and I am having plenty of fun on them thanks!

[Gman086]

I spoke with Jake at I9 today and they DID have an issue with the seals never really allowing for easy freewheeling when they were using the German SKF Abec 5 bearings in their hubs 3-4 years ago and older. CURRENT hubs use Enduro Abec 5 bearings (has etched on the outer race) and will only have that drag until break in (first 100 miles or so). After that it's all about the pawls as I stated. In fact, Jake told me pro DH racers remove all but two side-by-side pawls so as to have instant engagement but the smallest amount of drag possible (every 100th of a second counts in DH). Obviously not recommended by I9 for hub longevity but Pros don't care since they get them for free.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - They do have a ceramic bearing option with less drag for $70.
PSS - And that's the REST of the story!

[Ace5high]

Thanks good info

[Ace5high]

definitely the big bearing that is the interface between freehub body and hub shell. too much seal drag. remove one of the seals/both the seals/replace grease with light lube/replace entire bearing with good ceramic bearing including low drag seals. it's the only thing that frustrates me about the wheels.

running 3 pawls instead of 6 does make some difference, but the big bearing with high drag seals is the main culprit.

If we remove one or both seals and run them without are we taking a large chance of premature wear on the large bearing do you think?

Seems there is also a SS bearing option thats cheaper, so I guess its not a huge deal replacing it if need be. Ive got at least 100 miles on mine and still by removing the large bearing seals Im getting pretty significantly less drag...

[tnrider]

Do you have a 145mm axle in the rear, if so a design flaw seems to pre load the bearing. A buddy of mine made a small spacer for the rear so this would not happen.

[Ace5high]

Do you have a 145mm axle in the rear, if so a design flaw seems to pre load the bearing. A buddy of mine made a small spacer for the rear so this would not happen.

The bearing preload is adjustable though...? Was the end cap backed all the way out and it was still creating too much preload?

[stunzeed]

is it hard to remove these seals?

[aussie_yeti]

If we remove one or both seals and run them without are we taking a large chance of premature wear on the large bearing do you think?

If you take the seals off the bearing is no longer sealed. If any contaminants get inside the hub there will be no protection against them getting into the bearings. If that happens it won't be long before you're replacing a bearing.

[Betarad]

I've had my I9's for over 2 years. Despite what Gman claims, mine broke in just fine after about three months of noticeable drag. It totally becomes a non-issue. Without removing half the pawls. Without removing the seals on the "sealed" bearings (c'mon folks...think this one through a wee bit). Imagine that.

[Gman086]

I've had my I9's for over 2 years. Despite what Gman claims, mine broke in just fine after about three months of noticeable drag. It totally becomes a non-issue. Without removing half the pawls. Without removing the seals on the "sealed" bearings (c'mon folks...think this one through a wee bit). Imagine that.

The bearing is still "sealed" from the other side if you only take off the inner seal. In fact Hadley does this with their hubs (have seal only on the outer side) and they roll with the least amount of friction of any hub. Gee, imagine that?!

Have FUN!

G MAN

[Ace5high]

The bearing is still "sealed" from the other side if you only take off the inner seal.

G MAN

I must agree with you on this point, after putting mine through the ringer (several hundred miles in Pishah mountains NC) I took them apart for inspection and was surprised despite the many creek crossings, sand, dirt, mud, etc how little contamination was found inside. They do seem to seal fairly well, I wouldn't remove bearing seals normally but with regular maintanince I don't think this is any issue with the I9's. Again that's only my observation so don't everyone go doing what I'm doing, I have a mechanical background so for me it's not a concern...

[Dan GSR]

after about three months of noticeable drag

jeez for that much money i want them to be perfect out of the box

[Ace5high]

jeez for that much money i want them to be perfect out of the box

I would agree... but... In reality whats really ever perfect out of the box these days? With costs of running manufacturing businesses on US soil and consumers only wanting to pay second hand ebay prices or china reproduction prices on goods, Its harder to blame the manufacturers...

[Dan GSR]

my hadley hubs had zero drag out of the box
and were broken in, in 3 or 4 rides
yes they are a little heavier, and yes the have fewer POE
but the hadleys are cheaper

[Ace5high]

And yes they require special tools for maintenance, and yes they are difficult to get

Im not saying I9's are better, for me they just happen to be all I could get my hands on when I needed my wheels built, enjoy.