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  1. #1
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    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?

    I have a Cannondale F900SX equipped with the Coda Expert cartridge bearing rear hub, pretty old bike. I feel that the rear hub is not that smooth so I am trying to change out the bearings.

    I took off the brake rotor, the cassette and all the rubber seals. I read someone saying to tap from the non-drive side. I used a rubber mallet and pounded on the non-drive side, no luck. Neither bearings budged. Now what? How to take off the freehub? How to take out the cartridge bearings? Below are a bunch of photos. Please advise. Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-san-jose-20130303-01358.jpg  

    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-img-20130307-01365.jpg  

    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-img-20130307-01367.jpg  

    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-img-20130307-01368.jpg  

    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-san-jose-20130307-01369.jpg  


  2. #2
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    I have no knowledge of that particular hub but I've stripped lots of Asian sourced hubs in general and their methods of construction are always quite similar. They have two main methods of cassette carrier retention.

    Remove the cassette carrier. This one appears to me that it should just pull off. Try just grabbing it and pulling on it. If it pops off there will be a washer between it and the hub's inner DS bearing so look out for it. If it doesn't pull off try re-installing the cassette and using it to pull on. Then the axle should tap out (or pound out depending on the fit tolerance) from the DS pushing the NDS bearing with it as the axle will have an inner collar on it. Then tap out the DS hub bearing from the NDS with a drift punch and hammer. Yes - always use a rubber mallet for all hammering on the ends of the axle.

    Re-install new bearings by tapping on correctly sized socket wrenches that fit the OD of the bearings. Or use an arbor press if you're lucky enough to have one. I have made a "hub box" that I use to support the hub while doing the tapping.

    Other varieties of Asian hubs use a 5mm allen wrench in both the axle ends to remove a DS cap that holds on the cassette carrier but yours doesn't appear to be held on by anything now that you have removed all the ends caps & seals.

    Failing the cassette carrier pulling off I'm at a loss and defer to the true experts on this particular hub.

    My hub box has two different sized holes, big enough to allow the bearings to pass through. Your hub might have different sized bearings in the carrier.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-hub-box1.jpg  

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  3. #3
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    Hi, Mike,
    Thanks for the tip. Regarding the freehub body (cassette carrier), I have tried to pull on it really hard but it wouldn't budge. Tonight I will try your method of re-installing the casettes and use that to pull the freehub body out.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    I have no knowledge of that particular hub but I've stripped lots of Asian sourced hubs in general and their methods of construction are always quite similar. They have two main methods of cassette carrier retention.

    Remove the cassette carrier. This one appears to me that it should just pull off. Try just grabbing it and pulling on it. If it pops off there will be a washer between it and the hub's inner DS bearing so look out for it. If it doesn't pull off try re-installing the cassette and using it to pull on. Then the axle should tap out (or pound out depending on the fit tolerance) from the DS pushing the NDS bearing with it as the axle will have an inner collar on it. Then tap out the DS hub bearing from the NDS with a drift punch and hammer. Yes - always use a rubber mallet for all hammering on the ends of the axle.

    Re-install new bearings by tapping on correctly sized socket wrenches that fit the OD of the bearings. Or use an arbor press if you're lucky enough to have one. I have made a "hub box" that I use to support the hub while doing the tapping.

    Other varieties of Asian hubs use a 5mm allen wrench in both the axle ends to remove a DS cap that holds on the cassette carrier but yours doesn't appear to be held on by anything now that you have removed all the ends caps & seals.

    Failing the cassette carrier pulling off I'm at a loss and defer to the true experts on this particular hub.

    My hub box has two different sized holes, big enough to allow the bearings to pass through. Your hub might have different sized bearings in the carrier.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by lidation View Post
    Hi, Mike,
    Thanks for the tip. Regarding the freehub body (cassette carrier), I have tried to pull on it really hard but it wouldn't budge. Tonight I will try your method of re-installing the casettes and use that to pull the freehub body out.
    That method is the same as DT-Swiss 240 hubs too. If it doesn't work and no-one else chimes in with the definitive guide, try the Park Tool website - or Google your problem.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  5. #5
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    I had one of those back in 2000, and am trying to remember how it came apart. All I can remember is the freehub had a big hollow allen bolt holding the freehub into the hub body itself. I think the brake side bearing came out first and then the axle and then used a punch from the brake side to punch out the bearing in the freehub and then you can accesses the freehub body bolt. Hope this helps.
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  6. #6
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    Looks like the drive side spokes had a run in with the chain at some point. Might be a good time to deal with that as well?

  7. #7
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    Update:
    Thank you for all the suggestions! I tried to pull the freehub but was unsuccessful. Then I was able to tap from the drive side to get the brake-side bearing out. It tunrs out that the drive-side bearing is grinding pretty bad. The brake-side bearing is smooth though. But I will replace both just in case. I will also replace the freehub 'cause it's skipping a bit. Now when I looked into the hub from the brake side and saw that the freehub was actually screwed to the hub with a giant hollow torx bolt.

    Now to continue my job I need to:
    1) go buy a giant torx bit to unscrew the freehub
    2) remove the brake side bearing from the shaft.

    I have two questions here:
    a) How do I remove the brake side bearing from the shaft? With a bearing puller? Where to get one?

    b) When installing new bearings, how do I do it? The fitment seems pretty tight. And I don't think I can tap the bearing in while putting the force through the center race. But then is there a cheap tool somewhere I can use to put the new bearing in? Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-cimg9255.jpg  

    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-cimg9251.jpg  


  8. #8
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    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?

    You can use a large diameter socket to tap your bearings back in place make sure it's only touching the outer race and a light grease will help it slide easily in place


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  9. #9
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    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?

    As far as getting the old bearing off the axle drill a hole in a 2by4 just big enough for the axle to slip through up to the bearing and tap your axle through should work and you don't have to buy any tools


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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the idea!!

    Quote Originally Posted by manuelS View Post
    As far as getting the old bearing off the axle drill a hole in a 2by4 just big enough for the axle to slip through up to the bearing and tap your axle through should work and you don't have to buy any tools


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  11. #11
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    I can't answer any of your questions but if it was me I'd be buying a new hub; one that was easy to work on -

    MTB252 Rear Disc Hub - 10mm Axle

    Woops, I can answer this question -

    "How do I remove the brake side bearing from the shaft? With a bearing puller?"

    Rest bearing on partially open vise jaws. Tap axle down thru the bearing. Reverse the process to install.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  12. #12
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    Changing the whole hub definately would be great but I really don't want to lace the spokes 'cause I have never done it nor do I want to spend the time doing it. I heard it takes a lot of time and skills and need truing stand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    I can't answer any of your questions but if it was me I'd be buying a new hub; one that was easy to work on -

    MTB252 Rear Disc Hub - 10mm Axle

    Woops, I can answer this question -

    "How do I remove the brake side bearing from the shaft? With a bearing puller?"

    Rest bearing on partially open vise jaws. Tap axle down thru the bearing. Reverse the process to install.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lidation View Post
    Changing the whole hub definately would be great but I really don't want to lace the spokes 'cause I have never done it nor do I want to spend the time doing it. I heard it takes a lot of time and skills and need truing stand.
    None of that is true. You didn't read my site did you? You'll probably need new spokes though.
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

  14. #14
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    Mike T, Thank you! I just notice your site. Whow! You have a wealth of information on DIY wheel building. Not sure about this time but I guess if like you suggest if it's not that hard I might try build some wheels down the road. Thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    None of that is true. You didn't read my site did you? You'll probably need new spokes though.

  15. #15
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    So I was able to take everything off except for the freehub body. I bought a 12mm Allen wrench but I could not loosen it. I wonder if I was turning at the correct direction.

    See photo below. What my thinking is that from the drive side (freehub side), the freehub body is the normal thread (clockwise turn to tighten). Hence, from the brake side, I was turning the Allen wrench clockwise. I was using an 18" cheater bar but still couldn't loosen the freehub body.

    There seems to be some dirt trapped inside the freehub body so I'd like to open it and clean it from the inside.


    Please help! thanks!

    Heck, with so much time invested in messing around with this wheel bearing project, I might as well just buy a new set of wheels to save all the trouble. But I did learn a thing or two from this experience.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?-img-20130327-01407.jpg  


  16. #16
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    How do I take out the cartridge bearing from my rear hub (Coda Expert)?

    Try putting the Allen key in a good table vise and turning the wheel, as for the direction to turn I'm not sure if its a left hand three or not


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  17. #17
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    I remeber doing as Manuel suggested, putting the allen in a BIG bench vise and using the wheel to turn the allen wrench. It IS "normal" threaded, "righty/tighty-lefty/loosey". You may want to spray Liquidwrench or PB Blaster in there first to help loosen the bolt.Spray whatever "bolt-loosening' spray you are using thru both sides of the hub, especially the opposite side of where the Allen wrench goes in so the spray gets into the threads of the holding bolt. Once you get it out and go to re-install the freehub put "never-sieze" or grease on the holding bolt threads.
    Too bad you live so far away or I'd say bring it over and we would "Git her done". I remember the bolt being very tight.Good luck!
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  18. #18
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    Thanks a lot! I used a bent needle to trace the threads that sticks out a bit and found it to be really the "normal threaded" like you indicated.

    I have sprayed PBlaster for a day already but still no worky. Need to find a friend who has a vise to get this done. Thanks!

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