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  1. #1
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    ... and if we just ... Homemade Tire Sealants or Brews

    How about we start a discussion only about this topic and comment about the different recipes or brews available as of right now...thus far i have seen 2 or 3 variations...perhaps any chemistry experts can jump in and help us out a bit more...

    ingredients: mold builder latex, slime or stans, windex and/or antifreeze, water, and glitter...i saw somewhere that somebody even used regular elmer´s glue...

    ok, so here goes my opinion:

    1. for some reason i am not liking water in the mixture, i believe that it does not work well enough with latex..
    2. using glitter is kind of interesting, i think it will help make up a clog.

    so lets see the discussion, thanks...
    [SIZE="4"]´07 IBEX Asta Expert X9 "La Bonita"
    ´04 LITESPEED Classic "Chispita"[/SIZE]
    Jan ´07 @ 224lbs - Jan ´08 @165lbs - Goal @ 155lbs

  2. #2
    Single(Pivot)and Happy
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    The "Search" tool is your friend.
    The suspension of your bike sucks if it's different than mine. Really. It sucks. Big time.

  3. #3
    gnuH
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    Instead of glitter, attack an old tube with a coarse file - the rubber 'dust' is a great hole sealer.

  4. #4
    trail addict
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwirider
    Instead of glitter, attack an old tube with a coarse file - the rubber 'dust' is a great hole sealer.
    I had thought about giving that a try-it could be good for those stubborn leaks.

    My recipe isn't really homebrew-I am having good luck with about 50/50 Stan's/Tubeless Slime, but Stan's by itself seems adequate for brand new tires-older tires with more imperfections need slime's little particles and thicker consistency.
    You better just go ahead and drop that seatpost down to the reflector... the trail gets pretty rough down there.

  5. #5
    trail rat
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    Recipes, lots of tubeless brew recipes. Yummy!
    Why reinvent the wheel? Or best tubeless brew?
    Best Tubeless Brew?
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    "The physician heals, Nature makes well" - real fortune cookie

  6. #6
    Saucy Size Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwirider
    Instead of glitter, attack an old tube with a coarse file - the rubber 'dust' is a great hole sealer.
    Whoa! Genius.

    I've been using the glitter in my mix but have yet to see a hole actually get plugged by it. I think maybe the individual little flecks are too stiff. And they definitely do not want to accumulate into a scab -- they're kind of stick-proof. But shredded rubber bits, holy cow. And boy do I have a mess of old tubes and tires laying around here...

    +1 cookie for kiwirider.

    p.

  7. #7
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    i'm using 3 parts latex 1 part slime (atv type with bigger chunks ) 1 part windscreen wash, then add glitter. i have managed to get glitter strips in black much bigger than normal glitter. not sure about adding water myself as well. i have used it to make it thinner but i too think it doesn't mix well with latex. i ran mine in a speed king supersonic last week and suffered a nice flint puncture. it sealed first time .riding buddys were impressed too one was using a well known brand and had a puncture front and back, i had to give him a tube as he only had one.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boulder Pilot
    The "Search" tool is your friend.
    mmmm...i have been tooling with it for the past couple of weeks...the only reason i started the thread was for people like me to find the info in a single thread sort of like a metaanylisis and for more experienced users to let us know their experiences...the info is actually spread all over the forums so why not have it in a single thread and have a wonderful discussion...going ghetto tubeless and making your tire sealant is sort of like art...it has actually make me like the sport even more...
    [SIZE="4"]´07 IBEX Asta Expert X9 "La Bonita"
    ´04 LITESPEED Classic "Chispita"[/SIZE]
    Jan ´07 @ 224lbs - Jan ´08 @165lbs - Goal @ 155lbs

  9. #9
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    Donkey semen, and fruit fiber should do the trick. I don't know where you're gonna get the fruit fiber from though.

    How much does it cost to cook up a front-rear batch of that stuff?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garlock
    Donkey semen, and fruit fiber should do the trick. I don't know where you're gonna get the fruit fiber from though.

    How much does it cost to cook up a front-rear batch of that stuff?
    I don't laugh much while perusing this forum, but you got me.

  11. #11
    el cheapo
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    I think I have $25 invested in my tubeless setup unless you include the $10 worth of tape I already had lying around.

    $13 Mold Builder
    $2 Glitter
    $8 Slime
    $2 Clorox "natural" cleaner (can't remember the exact name)
    water

    "Ghetto rim strip"
    "rim tape" made from Frost King Weatherproof Tape (see below) with a layer of Gorilla Glue "duct tape" on the outside.

    http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u329227

    For a valve I used a presta valve cannibalized from a trash bin tube, a rubber washer from an outdoor faucet repair kit trimmed to fit between the grooves of the rim. I put a "nut" from an extra presta tube on first, slid on the washer and locked it in place with one on the outside of the rim. No leaks once the tire seals up.
    [SIZE=1]I am CHEAP[/SIZE]

  12. #12
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    wow interesting...had not heard about clorox...i will be doing my mix tomorrow or monday and i am relly inclined to use the following mix
    1. 3pts latex
    2. 1 pt slime
    3. 1pt antifreeze
    4. 1 pt windex
    5. couple tablespoons of glitter
    i only want to make a small amount just to try it out till a find what works the best...

    i kind a like using the 20in tube setup...the shcraeder valve makes it even easier for me to put more goo back into the tire...
    [SIZE="4"]´07 IBEX Asta Expert X9 "La Bonita"
    ´04 LITESPEED Classic "Chispita"[/SIZE]
    Jan ´07 @ 224lbs - Jan ´08 @165lbs - Goal @ 155lbs

  13. #13
    el cheapo
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    I have no problem pulling the tire off the rim to add more mixture with my setup. I just make sure to inset the lever well between spokes just in case I puncture my tape rim strip. I coated my old tires with slime to aid in sealing them up. Especially the bead. I used it as "lube" when I installed the first time and didn't get a single leak from there.

    The "clorox" isn't bleach, it's their natural wonders brand cleaner and I used it in place of Windex. It was concentrated so I added water, hence the water in the list.
    [SIZE=1]I am CHEAP[/SIZE]

  14. #14
    el cheapo
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    [SIZE=1]I am CHEAP[/SIZE]

  15. #15
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    Just a thought....

    Rather than glitter, how about glass microballons or microspheres? This may allow you to use less latex. I haven't tried it yet, but I have used glass microspheres with epoxy in model building. You get a very strong bond when building with this concoction, it is great at filling voids and small holes, and it is very, very lightweight. I don't see why this wouldn't work with latex. Check it out here:

    http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr1090.html

    As I said, it is just a (crazy) thought

  16. #16
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    I'm about to put together my own brew. I'm thinking about using Dot 3 Brake fluid instead of the windex a lot of people have been using. Good idea?

  17. #17
    Former Bike Wrench
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    A few thoughts-

    -Windex or any glass cleaner is a bad idea...main ingredient is Ammonia which is corrosive to aluminum and also has been linked to tire issues.

    -I have started using RV Antifreeze instead of regular antifreeze or windshield washer fluid as it uses much less toxic Propylene Glycol and Ethyl Alcohol. It runs about $4 a gallon and I have seen zero performance differences.

    -Still use glitter but might consider going with rubber dust...fact is, I've had no flats in over a year of using my homemade formula so it may not be worth changing.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    A few thoughts-

    -Windex or any glass cleaner is a bad idea...main ingredient is Ammonia which is corrosive to aluminum and also has been linked to tire issues.

    -I have started using RV Antifreeze instead of regular antifreeze or windshield washer fluid as it uses much less toxic Propylene Glycol and Ethyl Alcohol. It runs about $4 a gallon and I have seen zero performance differences.

    -Still use glitter but might consider going with rubber dust...fact is, I've had no flats in over a year of using my homemade formula so it may not be worth changing.

    No sure about ammonia being the main ingredient. We use 25% Ammonia at work and it is dangerous, certainly too dangerous to use in spray form like glass cleaner. Propylene glycol isn't real toxic, it's used in cosmetics, food, pharmaceuticals and heaps of other stuff. Ethylene Glycol's not so good though and that's used in antifreeze. Latex contains ammonia too but prob less than 1%.

    What does the Windex and or Anti freeze do for the goo? Extend the usable life?

    Like Epic Proportions I thought about microspheres. A range of sizes might help. Someone on this forum suggested chopping up cheap synthetic twine with sissors, prob as short as you can (less than 1 mm anyway). I can tell you that straining fibres out of paint is a nightmare so they'll probably seal leaks really well.

  19. #19
    Dr Gadget is IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by siwilliams
    Latex contains ammonia too but prob less than 1%.
    Yes, MSDS shows <1% by weight. But easily detectable by nose.

    Quote Originally Posted by siwilliams
    What does the Windex and or Anti freeze do for the goo? Extend the usable life?
    The idea of adding ammonia to the mix is to keep the latex liquid, since that's why the ammonia is in the latex to begin with. But IIRC it's the pH, not ammonia itself that prevents the latex from turning into rubber. Cleaning ammonia is <4% by weight and has been suggested rather than windex.

    Antifreeze - either propylene or ethylene glycol is in there because they don't evaporate very well (very low vapor pressure) and will stay around much longer than just water - which acts to dilute the latex and keep it moving around.

    So yes, both are for extending the life of the mix.

    Quote Originally Posted by siwilliams
    Like Epic Proportions I thought about microspheres. A range of sizes might help. Someone on this forum suggested chopping up cheap synthetic twine with sissors, prob as short as you can (less than 1 mm anyway). I can tell you that straining fibres out of paint is a nightmare so they'll probably seal leaks really well.
    Microspheres are a good possibility, but I would still prefer rough chunks over smooth ones - more likely to plug and stay put. YMMV
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  20. #20
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctorholguin View Post

    ingredients: mold builder latex, slime or stans, windex and/or antifreeze, water, and glitter...i saw somewhere that somebody even used regular elmer´s glue...

    ok, so here goes my opinion:

    1. for some reason i am not liking water in the mixture, i believe that it does not work well enough with latex..
    2. using glitter is kind of interesting, i think it will help make up a clog.

    so lets see the discussion, thanks...
    Water is redundant. The recommended antifreeze to use contains propylene glycol, which is part of Stan's formula and which is non toxic. The antifreeze is mostly water anyway, so no need to add more. Just enough to dilute the mold builder. Slime and glitter both is also not necessary. The reason people add slime to homebrew is because it has hole clogging particles suspended in it. Too much hole clogging additives can also clog your valves. So if you use Slime, you can ditch the glitter. Or you can use neither and rely on the latex alone - which is by by no means foolproof.




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  21. #21
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    After reading through this thread (as well as numerous other sites) I thought I’d give “my 2-cents’ worth”.

    Having rode pro-enduro for 13 years, OWNING A BICYCLE SHOP, & owning/operating numerous pieces of rubber-tired ag equipment (in rural, southeast Missouri; i.e.: thorns of all nature & size), I find the following to work very well.

    All of the opinions/formulas sound plausible, but I’d like to share an older tried-n-true method, as well as a newer one (admittedly semi-plagiarized from a commercial formula).

    In the mid ‘70s we started making our motorcycle tube sealant from: low buck, pink, generic, kitchen dish detergent (then a very dense viscosity); glycerin, & isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (a ratio of a bottle of each was fine). This stuff lasts forever; I still have it in my ‘76 factory works Suzuki PE250 tubes!!! I’ve also been running it (since ‘88) in the front tubes on my 40-horse farm tractor; with locust thorns the size of horseshoe nails having been pulled out of the tires!!!

    My new method is to use Palmolive green dish liquid (about the thickest available); glycerin; & isopropyl alky. PLUS, I use polyester (fiberfill type) batting. Another “plugging agent” that can be used instead of the poly-fill is cotton balls or batting. These are essentially the same idea behind the “wadding” mixed into the injectable, bulk Slime.

    For SV tube applications, the batting is chopped-up small enough (cut to the size of cotton-swab ends) to be poked into the Schrader valve (with core removed) using the stalk of a cotton swab (or similar “tool”); I then inject the 3-part goo into the tube using either a large syringe, of the veterinary or horse worming paste type. Another great fill tool is a mustard squirt bottle fitted with an old hose-n-coupler off a spent Fix-A-Flat can. For Presta valved tubes inserting the batting is a real bear & ONLY possible on tubes with removable cores (& with smaller pieces of batting, too)! PV tubes would be best done with just the goo, & hope for the best.

    On apps such as lawn tractors/etc., with TUBELESS tires/wheels, I just break the bead loose on one side, stuff the small pieces of the polyester directly into the tire’s cavity, pour in the goo & air it up; just leave it laying flat until the bead seats.

    With the banter in this forum over the different “antifreeze agents”, I thought I’d broach another interesting usage for same. A cheap method for adding “wheel-weight traction” on the rear of a lawn tractor is to pour windshield washer anti-freeze directly into the tubeless tire/rim assembly, as detailed above, until tire cavity is filled. Very little air volume required to take them to the max recommended PSI. You’re adding about 7.5 LBs/gallon of fluid; it’s not likely to freeze in most climates; & the detergent in it will keep the tire supple & won’t support rim rusting. And, this costs a lot less buck than wheel weights, & saves crushed toes/hernias. To some degree, this will seal minor leaks on its own, but not recommended if you’re intending on additionally using a stop leak in them. If you need to drain the wheel, pop the bead loose from one side & siphon the anti-freeze out for re-use.

    On any type of sealing agent applications, or the “wheel weighting“, ALWAYS position your valve stem @ 12 o’clock when airing/checking PSI or you’ll get a shower/leakage.

    AND, an FYI for all of the bicyclists: avoid using any sealers which contain ammonia (or ammoniated salts) around high-buck, tempered allow rims; it’ll cause metallurgical degradation of the tempered aluminum.

    Hope this helps everyone & be safe.

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