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  1. #1
    Super Clyde
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    Heavy duty wheels?

    I posted this over in the Clydesdale Forum, and I thought I'd post it here to for a wider audience. I apologize if I shouldn't have posted in both. I'm 6 ft. and 360lbs. I think I need a heavier duty wheel than what I have now. Right now I have a Campy Stentho wheelset with Deore hubs and Conti Town & Country tires running about 60 psi. I don't know all the specifics, like what spokes it has, but I do know they were hand built in 1994 by a friend. When I started riding on them I was only about 225lbs, and rode mostly single track. I've recently picked riding back up as cross training along with running. Now the rear wheel won't stay true, and I feel like I'm getting a lot of flex when turning, carrying pretty decent speed. I ride exclusively on the road, and am only at about 4-6 miles. Once I lose more weight I plan on finding so off road trails, but will probably stick to easy single track. My budget is only about $300 so I know I am fairly limited. I'm planning on upgrading to disc brakes at the same time, so they need to be 6 bolt compatible. Thanks!


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  2. #2
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    I explain to people how to build strong wheels here Zerodish's Blog | Just another WordPress.com site and here Flickr: Charles Ramsey's Photostream What you need is a six bolt Shimano hub the cheapest will work silver with 36 holes. Then remove the 9 cog freehub and replace it with a 7 cog freehub and remove as much dish as you are able. Also replace the hollow axle with a solid one. A Araya VP 20 a Weinmann 519 or 520 or no name copies rim. Use Wheelsmith 13 gauge Sapim 13 gauge or Pillar 2.2mm spokes. Hub $40 rim $25 spokes $30 axle $10 freehub find a used one labor $30 total $135. Also look for the 6 cogs on single speed hubs for something a bit more expensive. 6 cogs on a SS hub -- best solution?
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  3. #3
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    Zerodishes response is extremely biased. You can absolutely build dished, VERY strong wheels.

    Its also fairly silly to focus on dish, and then pick a piece of junk weinmann rim If you build what he suggested, you'd break them and be out all the money your spent. You *need* a very stiff heavy duty rim. No matter what you build, it wont hold up unless the rim is sturdy.

    I cant think of any rim off the top of my head, as all the HD 26 rims are disc brake only these days. For a 29er/700c you'd have lots of options. Just do keep in mind, you need a very sturdy rim, for 26ers something around 600+g is appropriate.

  4. #4
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    Yes I'm biased toward dishless wheels. Santana tandems and me think a dishless wheel is twice as strong as a standard wheel. Wheels and Hubs that would make it stronger than a 48 spoke wheel which will cost more than your $300 budget. The tandem forums recommend the velocity deep V rims for reduced spoke wheels. I don't recommend what I haven't tested there have been no rim failures on my back wheels which typically have 20000 miles each with 165 to 190 pounds on them.
    "Dish is illogical." Spoke of Vulcan.

  5. #5
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    If I were looking for a cheap, strong rim for the purposes the OP mentions, I think I would look at the Sun Rhyno-Lite. You can get them in 36h, and you can get Shimano hubs in 36h fairly readily too. Grab some Sapim 'Strong' (2.3mm at the j-bend, and then butted down to 2.0mm). Use brass nipples. You should be able to get all the parts for this build for $250 to $300.

    Rhyno Lite rims @ $31.00 each - free shipping ($62.00)

    Sun Rhyno Lite 26'' 36h Silver Rim Presta Valve Drilled | eBay

    Sapim Strong spokes @ $0.85 each (72 = $61.00 plus tax and shipping)

    Sapim Strong Single Butted Spoke - Wheelbuilder.com

    That puts you at $123 (plus tax and shipping for the spokes), which leaves some decent room for a better-than-Deore rear hub.

    Here is a 36h Saint rear hub with a 10mm rear axle for $79 (free shipping), which is a good step above most other Shimano rear hubs in terms of durability, and it's about 1/4 lb lighter than Deore through XT models.

    Shimano Saint FH M810 Rear MTB Hub Centerlock Disc 36h 135mm Black | eBay

    And then, here is a Shimano Deore front hub (Deore is fine for front hubs) for $29.99 (w/free shipping)

    Shimano Deore M525A 36h Mountain Bike Front Disc Hub Black | eBay

    That leaves some left over for some brass nipples, and you're right at (or very close to) your $300 budget, and you have a good shot at a good budget clydesdale wheelset.

    Just an example to show that if you shop around, you should be able to accomplish what you're looking for, and stick to your budget.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
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    I have ordered several wheels from universal cycles. They have a wheel builder utility on their site that lets you pick the hub, rim, and spokes. I have found this to be the best (greatest value) option for me. For example, I screwed up a wheel last night, and spec'd out a rear wheel with XT hub, Champion double butted spikes, aluminum nipples, and a Mavic 721 rim for $192. The front wheel should be cheaper.

    If I were you, I would order up a 36 hole rear / 32 hole front set with the thickest gauge double butted spokes (not the aeroblade because they are more expensive); brass nipples; XT or SLX hubs; and a Mavic 700 series downhill rim.

    In my opinion, you get the most value by avoiding blingy hubs.

  7. #7
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    Quote Originally Posted by veryavgwhtguy View Post
    I have ordered several wheels from universal cycles. They have a wheel builder utility on their site that lets you pick the hub, rim, and spokes. I have found this to be the best (greatest value) option for me. For example, I screwed up a wheel last night, and spec'd out a rear wheel with XT hub, Champion double butted spikes, aluminum nipples, and a Mavic 721 rim for $192. The front wheel should be cheaper.

    If I were you, I would order up a 36 hole rear / 32 hole front set with the thickest gauge double butted spokes (not the aeroblade because they are more expensive); brass nipples; XT or SLX hubs; and a Mavic 700 series downhill rim.

    In my opinion, you get the most value by avoiding blingy hubs.
    He weighs 360 lbs. If his leg strength gets up there and he climbs steep hills, XT freehubs are prone to failure. The last time I was using them, I blew up three within a year. Not from abusing them, but because my leg strength combined with pushing my 275 lb carcass up steep hills was more than they could withstand. For strong clydesdales that ride up steep hills, those so-called blingy hubs can become economical over time, not to mention the inconvenience of breaking down out on the trail.

    Also, as an FYI for the sake of clarity, the DT Swiss Champion spokes are straight gauge. It is the Competition spokes that are double butted.

  8. #8
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    Have look at the Azonic Outlaw wheel set. These are inexpensive and well reviewed by downhill park riders, and should hold up to this heavy weight rider OP's use for smooth trail and pavement training rides.

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