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  1. #1
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    Gorilla tape ghetto tubeless works great.

    I saw a vid about this on youtube.

    Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0
    Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1ib5HdA5M

    So, I got the tape, some Stan's sealant and cut the presta valves out of two tubes.

    I pretty much followed the vids with these changes:

    1. Cut the tape to fit into the rim so the tape DOES NOT go up the inside walls of the rim. The tire will not seal if it does.

    2. I didnt bother with the string to measure the length of tape. I cut the tape to the correct width on the roll with a razor knife and just wound it around the rim twice

    3. On my Bontrager Mustang rims I could not get the tires to air up with one layer of tape. With two layers they puffed right up first try.

    4. Cut the rubber around the presta valve a little big so it just fits between the tire beads. This helps hold the beads in place near the valve.

    5. Air it up with soapy water to help the seal first. This will seat the bead. I then I used a tire lever to open up a little gap in the bead and squirted 2oz of Stan's sealant into the tire.

    The rest of the process is the standard wiggle the tire while rotating it then set it on its side for a minute or so...wiggle, rotate and st it on the other side. Repeat untill its seals completely.

    I weigh 210lbs and I run 28psi F and 30psi R.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by formulaone33
    I saw a vid about this on youtube.

    Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0
    Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1ib5HdA5M

    So, I got the tape, some Stan's sealant and cut the presta valves out of two tubes.

    I pretty much followed the vids with these changes:

    1. Cut the tape to fit into the rim so the tape DOES NOT go up the inside walls of the rim. The tire will not seal if it does.

    2. I didnt bother with the string to measure the length of tape. I cut the tape to the correct width on the roll with a razor knife and just wound it around the rim twice

    3. On my Bontrager Mustang rims I could not get the tires to air up with one layer of tape. With two layers they puffed right up first try.

    4. Cut the rubber around the presta valve a little big so it just fits between the tire beads. This helps hold the beads in place near the valve.

    5. Air it up with soapy water to help the seal first. This will seat the bead. I then I used a tire lever to open up a little gap in the bead and squirted 2oz of Stan's sealant into the tire.

    The rest of the process is the standard wiggle the tire while rotating it then set it on its side for a minute or so...wiggle, rotate and st it on the other side. Repeat untill its seals completely.

    I weigh 210lbs and I run 28psi F and 30psi R.
    For mustangs the Bonti plastic strips work very well and used to be cheap. For valves the Bontrager tubeless valves are only $3.99 ea and have a removeable core making putting sealant int easy.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratt
    For mustangs the Bonti plastic strips work very well and used to be cheap. For valves the Bontrager tubeless valves are only $3.99 ea and have a removeable core making putting sealant int easy.
    Where do you get the Bontrager valves in the US?

  4. #4
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    Video shows using a UST tire...I wonder how well this method will prevent burping on standard tires (not UST or "Tubeless Ready") vs The split tube ghetto method

  5. #5
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    I am running normal (not UST or 2Bliss) Specialized Roll X Team folding tires at pretty low pressure and I have had no problems.

  6. #6
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    How many rides have you done on it?

    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    How many rides have you done on it?

    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".

    I have one weekend on them. I rode a trail system with a lot of roots and rough fast down hill sections on a hard tail...no burps.

    There are a few thousand people running Stan's tubeless kits with regular tires on all sorts of rims with no or very infrequent problems.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    Where do you get the Bontrager valves in the US?
    Any trek dealer.

  9. #9
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    This is basically the Stan's method. The deviations are in the materials he chose to use and the fact that he tapes over the valve stem after it is installed. I did one of these gorilla conversions with an old valve stem this evening. No issues, sealed right up. It's a bit easier than ghetto tubeless and obviously more tire swap friendly. We'll see how well it holds up compared to Stan's yellow tape, but rumor has it the stuff is pretty good.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  10. #10
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    I think like most Ghetto methods, it is probably dependant on the rim and tires used. I ripped my valve stem from my Ghetto strip last week. So since I'm using "Tubeless Ready" tires right now and WTB Speed Disc AM rims that have very good bead hooks...I thought I'd give it a shot (not sure I'd try this with a standard tire as I had numerous burping issues a few years back with standard tires and UST rims). I left the layer of straping tape on and did one wrap of Gorilla tape (comes in 1" x 30ft rolls, perfect width for my Speed Disc AM's) with an overlap at the valve stem hole. I had a couple of Mavic UST stems in my parts bin so I installed these after just punching a hole in the tape. 3oz of my tubeless sealant mix and about a 5 second blast from my compressor and the tires seated. One ride and a week later, they're holding air better than the Ghetto method.

    So we'll see...I'd still be nervous about standard tires since there is no seal on the bead, but for tubeless ready tires I feel pretty confident of this working.

  11. #11
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    I think the key to this working well is using one or two layers of tape depending on the depth of the rim channel. Deeper rims need a 2nd layer of tape to ease initial inflation and possibly improve the bead seal.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    I think like most Ghetto methods, it is probably dependant on the rim and tires used.
    Definitely true. For my conversion I only did one wrap in the rim bed, not a wider strip over the bead seat. The WTB rims have a sharp and deep center channel that makes this type of conversion a bit more of a dilema. I lost a few psi overnight, but will go for a ride this afternoon so that should shake the sealant around a bit more. I actually did very little shaking since the tire is a true ust, thick sidewall, maxxis. I tried to shake it a bit at the valve stem to make sure it sealed there.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  13. #13
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    Its been a few weeks now and my conversion is still going great. Bontrager Mustangs, Specialized Roll-x folding tires, Gorilla tape, Stan's sealant, and cut out presta valves from old tubes. I weight 210lb and I am running 30 in the rear and 25 in the front on a 26" hardtail. I have experienced zero problems, no burps, blow outs or even loss of pressure week to week.

    Saturday I converted 3 other bikes and we all rode today with no issues.

    Bike 1: Belongs to my GF. Fisher Joshua Z0 She is 115lb.

    Sun CR17A rims
    Specialized Captain 2.1 Wire beads
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    22psi F/ 25psi R

    Bike 2: Belongs to my best friend. Stumpy FSR Elite He is 250lb.

    Mavic 223 disc rims
    Specialized Captain 2.1 Wire beads
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    30psi F/ 35psi R

    Bike 3: Belongs to my friend's wife. Giant Cypher (Women's Trance X) She is 135lb.

    WTB Speed Disc XC rims
    Specialized Fast Trak LK S-works Folding
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    22psi F/ 25psi R

    Bikes 1 and 2 needed 2 layers of tape for easy initial inflation.

    Bike 3 with the WTB rims seemed to be tubless ready as they had flat shelves for the tire beads to climb up on to. It only needed one layer of tape and it inflated and sealed instantly.

    All tires held air with no leaks of loss of pressure and no one had and burps today even on some nasty roots and very steep washed out g-outs.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the updates...I decided to try it with "Tubeless Ready" tires on my WTB Speed Disc AM 29 rims and Mavic UST Valves.

    Yes the WTB rims use "International Bead Seat" on their Laser and Speed Disc rims, its seems to really hold on to tire beads tight. The 1" wide roll of Gorilla Tape is the perfect width for LaserDisc Trail and Speed Disc AM's.

    I've been a bit limited on my rides due to trail closures (fire hazard extreme due to dry and hot summer) but I have gotten about a half dozen rides and had zero issues.

  15. #15
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    My conversion has been trouble free. It bleeds off about 10psi if I let the bike sit for a few days. I check pressure before every ride, so that is a non issue for me. I will do my other wheel sometime next week.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  16. #16
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    Has anyone tried this conversion with DT Swiss 5.1D rims?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtforester
    Has anyone tried this conversion with DT Swiss 5.1D rims?
    Just go with the Gorrilla tape, bonty rim strip method. I have the DT kit and it is awesome - remember to run real UST tires for best results.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".
    That would be my biggest concern too. I have never burped a tire with the "split tube" method. I even used that method on UST wheels with regular tires, because even with a UST rim, a "regular" tire is not made to seal at the bead, and the split tube takes care of that.

    I think that with a UST, or Tubeless Ready tire, the tape would be okay, but I don't think I would trust the bead seal with a "regular" tire. I like the way the "split tube" method provides a good seal at the bead.

    In the end, if it works, it works. Lots of people think I am crazy doing the "split tube" method instead of real tubeless, but it works well for me as long as I don't try to use ultralight tires with weak sidewalls. I've been tubeless for 4 years, using Stans strips, and "split tubes" and have never burped a tire, so for me it works.

  19. #19
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    I just got back from a ride on gnarly, rooty, rain rutted single track with two friends that I did the Gorilla tubeless conversion and we are all good. No leaks, flats or burps.

    I did increase my pressure from 28F and 30R to 30 and 35 since I felt my rear rim bottom out last week. Not hard enough to do any damage but I felt it.

  20. #20
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    my experience

    sun rhyno lite rims and kenda nevegals dtc.(non ust.)
    Gorilla tape method = sucky results. Did a short ride and it burped all to hell. They were well sealed. Lost no air sitting in garage a few days. First trail ride was total failure. went from 35 psi to about 10 psi in one ride from rolling typical desert trails. LAME

  21. #21
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    E !, lots of variables (aka things to go wrong) on a tubeless conversion.

    One constant remains:
    sucky materials + poor implementation = sucky results
    Conversely:
    good materials + careful installation = success (usually)

    Personally I wouldn't use a nevegal as they have such thin sidewalls. Of course I am 240lb and ride is rocks about 80% of the time. Was the tire new or used? How was the fit onto the rim? Did you use 1 or 2 layers of tape? How wide was your tape?
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Thanks for the updates...I decided to try it with "Tubeless Ready" tires on my WTB Speed Disc AM 29 rims and Mavic UST Valves.

    Yes the WTB rims use "International Bead Seat" on their Laser and Speed Disc rims, its seems to really hold on to tire beads tight. The 1" wide roll of Gorilla Tape is the perfect width for LaserDisc Trail and Speed Disc AM's.

    I've been a bit limited on my rides due to trail closures (fire hazard extreme due to dry and hot summer) but I have gotten about a half dozen rides and had zero issues.
    I would be curious to hear some advice opinions on how adventuresome or risk taking I could be trying the Gorilla Tape conversion method on a couple of 29"er specific rims. I've got the Blunts and the Delgado Discs (wider XC rims) that I currently run converted using Stans Freeride 26" strips or the split tube ghetto method (both work just fine). Would it be worth it to mess around with one or both of these rims to give the G.Tape a shot. Curious what the tape method weight would be for a 700c rim (tape and valve weight) compared to the Freeride or split tube weight? Freeride strips are not light. I also use center channel fill (foam weatherstripping) on both of these rims with the Stans Freeride strips to keep the rimstrip from sagging down and pulling away from the rim wall cavity. Sounds like that would not be needed with the Gorilla Tape. Perhaps 2 layers of Gorilla Tape to get everything nice and snug for quick sealing and easy airing up.

    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB
    Good question. Gorilla tape isn't light either when looking at it by the inch I would guess that it is close to the weight of the split inner tube. I suppose weather strip plus freeride kit does give some wiggle room on weight. But it does add a bit more tire and rim compatibility to the equation. I think the split tube is about the most secure of the tubeless methods. Gorilla tape has worked well for me, but I am using UST tires with a thick casing so burping hasn't been an issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er
    Good question. Gorilla tape isn't light either when looking at it by the inch I would guess that it is close to the weight of the split inner tube. I suppose weather strip plus freeride kit does give some wiggle room on weight. But it does add a bit more tire and rim compatibility to the equation. I think the split tube is about the most secure of the tubeless methods. Gorilla tape has worked well for me, but I am using UST tires with a thick casing so burping hasn't been an issue.
    I would agree that the split tube method is probably the most secure burping wise. Its fault is in remounting tires...I've done it but the tube shifts and its a bit of a PITA. A double sided tape may be the solution here but I haven't tried it...I'd love to hear if anyone has. What I like about the Gorilla Tape is I can literally remove a tire, clean the rim, and install another tire. But I do believe there are a lot of variables here with both rims and tires. The WTB rims have a nice profile that actually mimics the Mavic UST rims with a nice shelf for the tire beads to lock in. Other brands don't have this...as we've seen in this thread, one user has had issues with the Rhyno Lite. Also, my "Tubeless Ready" tires seated up and stayed air tight with no issues while I've since gone and threw a new set of Kenda Klaws and it has been more troublesome. No burps so far, but the tire casing has lots of pin holes that took some time to seal. Of course, this would be an issue on the split tube method as well so its more the tire than the conversion.

  25. #25
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    Well, after trying the stans kit (didn't seem to fit the rim very well, WTB Laserdisc trails) I decided to go the DIY route.

    I did the front tire tonight with no issues. Used the gorilla tape to seal the rims, had a bontrager valve from my old bike, so tossed it in. Tire is an actual UST bluegroove because that's what I had laying around. Dry run with no sealant, aired up perfectly. So pulled the bead off a small part & put in stan's sealant & aired up again. So far so good.
    Will get a good ride on it tomorrow...if all goes well I will do the rear, but try a non-UST nevegal.

  26. #26
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    Update, got a good 17 miles in this morning despite packed trails (Don't people sleep in anymore?? LOL).
    No issues with the front bluegroove running tubeless, felt alot better than the nevegal with a tube up front for sure.
    Put it through it's paces in some rock gardens & no leaks, no burps.

    Will be converting the rear tonight with a non-ust nevegal.

  27. #27
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    Update: My girlfriend let her tires go flat in a Florida garage, in summer for 2 weeks and her stans dried out...lol! I put more in and they aired right up. She has a little leak at the pinned rim joint of her Sun CR17A rims. The Stans took care if it in seconds.

  28. #28
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    Finished the rear tire with a non-UST version nevegal + stans, it aired up right away.
    It lost a bit of air over the first 2 days, I rode it today & it held up to roots & a bunch of small jumps.
    So far so good

  29. #29
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    I have Specialized Adrenaline tires on Mavic Crossride rims. Is this going to work for a ghetto tubeless setup?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I would be curious to hear some advice opinions on how adventuresome or risk taking I could be trying the Gorilla Tape conversion method on a couple of 29"er specific rims. I've got the Blunts and the Delgado Discs (wider XC rims) that I currently run converted using Stans Freeride 26" strips or the split tube ghetto method (both work just fine). Would it be worth it to mess around with one or both of these rims to give the G.Tape a shot. Curious what the tape method weight would be for a 700c rim (tape and valve weight) compared to the Freeride or split tube weight? Freeride strips are not light. I also use center channel fill (foam weatherstripping) on both of these rims with the Stans Freeride strips to keep the rimstrip from sagging down and pulling away from the rim wall cavity. Sounds like that would not be needed with the Gorilla Tape. Perhaps 2 layers of Gorilla Tape to get everything nice and snug for quick sealing and easy airing up.

    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB
    Not exactly what you were asking, but I've started hearing that Bonty TLR rim strips work like a charm in the Blunts... you might do some research on that option as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  31. #31
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    as an aside, i can't believe this thread is still facepalm free. chas must be on vacation.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  32. #32
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    Can I do this with a Shrader valve? All my rims I have drilled out to shrader.......
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say.” – Joshua Stinebrink

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ae111black
    Can I do this with a Shrader valve? All my rims I have drilled out to shrader.......
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    Great! because I here every one talking about Presta this and Presta that.... I've abandoned Presta back in the Ninty's
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say.” – Joshua Stinebrink

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  35. #35
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    just did this with 29er crest rim, one layer of gorilla tape, presta valve cut from an old tube. weirwolf tire. aired up with a floor pump without soapy water! didn't hold more than 15-20 psi though. homebrew sealant (from the best homebrew thread) and now holding 40 psi.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    I have prestas on my tubeless setup but running schraeder valves make perfect sense for the reasons quoted above.......I just have not had the gonads to take a drill to my rims.........

  37. #37
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    i had/have the stan's rim strips in my rims for my tubeless, so i figured id try to shave some weight and make it easier for trailside repairs (dont have to remove strip, just drop remove valve and drop in a tube) and do the gorilla tape method. removed the stan's strip, cleaned the wheel, put on 1 nice clean layer with good overlap on valve area, i couldnt get the tire to seat (WTB velociraptor). i fiddled with everything, couldnt get it to seat and mount, it looked like it was tryin to, but couldnt. poped my kenda small block 8 back on and it instantly seated and sealed. had to eventually put my strips back in, and it instantly sealed.

    any ideas?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by AkumaY
    ...any ideas?
    Add more tape.

    P

  39. #39
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    I was skeptical but I converted my Am Classic Wheels with non-tubeless Schwalbe Racing Ralphs to tubeless using only electrical tape, an old threaded valve stem and some Stan's. Have 6 hours of riding on them and so far so good. Total cost $13 for the sealant. I do have an air compressor at home so inflation was a snap. The hardest part was getting the valve to hod air, I really had to crank down the nut on the valve.

  40. #40
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    I have a new set of 26" WTB Laser disc trail wheels. Will be converting to tubeless with gorilla tape and running WTB TCS Am tires, have a set of Muatano 2.4s and a set of Weirwolf 2.3s in the new TCS inner peace versions. I am going to do exactly what this guy does because IMHO every thing is logical and makes sense.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqbJ5...eature=related

    The tip of using a tube to push down the tape over night sounds like a winner.

    The only thing I will do different is use 1" wide gorilla tape and Mavic UST valves since i already have the valves and sealant and dont feel like buying the expensive effetto mariposa tape.

  41. #41
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    Thought I would post my results for people to reference in the future.

    Just successfully converted to ghetto tubeless using gorilla tape on mavic xc717/xm117 with continental mountain king 2.2s. Didn't have an air compressor, so it was a b!tch to get it to seal. Ended up having to do two layers of gorilla tape, and on the xm117, had to go back and add another layer of tape over the valve hole. I also used the mavic ust valve kit, which had rubber o-rings, couldn't imagine having to do it with standard valves.

    So glad to finally be tubeless, not gonna miss those trailside tube changes...

  42. #42
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    I g-taped my Laser Disc 29 last year. So far, no issues, but don't have many miles on them, either. Rampages set up super quick. Geax Saguaros had a harder time seating, but it seems to hold air better than the Rampages.

  43. #43
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    i just setup one of my tire this way as a trial. after an hour seems to be holding still. ride test tomorrow. setup is 29er velocity vxc rim, conti mountain king 2.4 tire. i'm excited to see this working.

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    Just wanted to give my input. I successfully mounted a kenda blue groove 2.35 to a mavic crossride front rim using electric tape over the spoke holes, then gorilla tape over that to seal airtight. I did the stan's sealant dance, used an air compressor to bead and let it sit all night. Seems to hold pressure fine, will go on a trial ride at ~25-28 psi. I did a mix of 2 parts stans/1 part slime

    I did the same set up to my velocity blunt rear wheel 26inch with schwalbe fat albert 2.25, and the tire beaded with the air compressor but it started leaking through 3 large cuts in my tire. I was hoping the sealant would seal it, but it just sprayed out instead. So I patched the tire and going to ride with a tube for a couple days to let the patch adhere and will retry converting it to tubeless. It should be successful and I will keep people interested posted!

  45. #45
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    I just converted a WTB Laserdisc and a Bontrager Mustang disc rim with Gorrilla take and Stans. I'm running non-UST WTB prowler SL Race tires.

    They seated very easily with a compressor, then I had to work the sealant around to stop minor leaks. A short ride and a few hours later and they appear to be holding air. I'll update after this weekend.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    Just wanted to give my input. I successfully mounted a kenda blue groove 2.35 to a mavic crossride front rim using electric tape over the spoke holes, then gorilla tape over that to seal airtight. I did the stan's sealant dance, used an air compressor to bead and let it sit all night. Seems to hold pressure fine, will go on a trial ride at ~25-28 psi. I did a mix of 2 parts stans/1 part slime

    I did the same set up to my velocity blunt rear wheel 26inch with schwalbe fat albert 2.25, and the tire beaded with the air compressor but it started leaking through 3 large cuts in my tire. I was hoping the sealant would seal it, but it just sprayed out instead. So I patched the tire and going to ride with a tube for a couple days to let the patch adhere and will retry converting it to tubeless. It should be successful and I will keep people interested posted!
    Please do follow up. I have 2.25 Fat Alberts on Mavic Crossride rims and I have to figure out some way to stop getting goathead flats! The LBS/Yeti dealer, discouraged me from trying to go tubeless with Stan's on this combination tire/rims, but these are both brand-new (original equipment on the bike) and I don't want to spring for UST wheelset/tires.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    Please do follow up. I have 2.25 Fat Alberts on Mavic Crossride rims and I have to figure out some way to stop getting goathead flats! The LBS/Yeti dealer, discouraged me from trying to go tubeless with Stan's on this combination tire/rims, but these are both brand-new (original equipment on the bike) and I don't want to spring for UST wheelset/tires.

    Hi Porschefan,
    Sorry it's been a hectic week, my riding buddy landed in the ICU. I've been decompressing from all things biking and busy with work. I never got the chance to try converting my Fat Albert's on my blunt's again, and I don't think I will anymore as the tire hasn't as favorable as my panaracer xc fire as a rear. I also read too many posts of the fat albert not being the best rear tire, as blowouts, burps happen freq due to poor beading issues. The blunt is a 28mm rim so I would rather not risk having the setup fail on me.

    My front blue groove has held through everything I've thrown at it. From small jumps at the dirt park, rock gardens, high speeds (my buddy wrecked at 30+mph, I had to dodge him and ended up riding on all sorts of stuff mainly on my front trying to slow down), small drops - the tire has held up absolutely amazing. I'm running it at 24-25PSI and I'm sure I'm able to go lower but I love the feeling of it where it's at.

    In Montana we don't have many prickly things to cause flats so I don't have any input on goat head flats.

    What type of sealant are you using? Have you tried a combo (i am using 2 parts stans, 1 part slime) to help patch the holes? Are the burrs puncturing deep and when you get the flats are you removing them right away before the sealant has time to patch some of it?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    Hi Porschefan,
    Sorry it's been a hectic week, my riding buddy landed in the ICU. I've been decompressing from all things biking and busy with work. I never got the chance to try converting my Fat Albert's on my blunt's again, and I don't think I will anymore as the tire hasn't as favorable as my panaracer xc fire as a rear. I also read too many posts of the fat albert not being the best rear tire, as blowouts, burps happen freq due to poor beading issues. The blunt is a 28mm rim so I would rather not risk having the setup fail on me.

    My front blue groove has held through everything I've thrown at it. From small jumps at the dirt park, rock gardens, high speeds (my buddy wrecked at 30+mph, I had to dodge him and ended up riding on all sorts of stuff mainly on my front trying to slow down), small drops - the tire has held up absolutely amazing. I'm running it at 24-25PSI and I'm sure I'm able to go lower but I love the feeling of it where it's at.

    In Montana we don't have many prickly things to cause flats so I don't have any input on goat head flats.

    What type of sealant are you using? Have you tried a combo (i am using 2 parts stans, 1 part slime) to help patch the holes? Are the burrs puncturing deep and when you get the flats are you removing them right away before the sealant has time to patch some of it?
    No worries--thanks for the response.

    I wen to an LBS today and talked over the situation with the guys in the shop. Decided to try a compromise solution: two new tubes with removable-core Presta valves filled with Stan's (instead of Slime).

    They do "ghetto tubeless" conversions at this shop also--and for only $40-$50 per bike, so I was really tempted to just do that, but the shop manager said the downside to that was the Fat Albert tires--some risk of them not sealing as well as other tires--especially UST. Their advice was that if I wanted to stop the goathead problem and wasn't too concerned with the fact that tubeless would allow me to run lower pressures, then the Stan's + tubes solution would work great. We'll see. I know that the Slime + tubes ain't cutting it! So I'm going to mount these new tubes and see what happens.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    No worries--thanks for the response.

    I wen to an LBS today and talked over the situation with the guys in the shop. Decided to try a compromise solution: two new tubes with removable-core Presta valves filled with Stan's (instead of Slime).

    They do "ghetto tubeless" conversions at this shop also--and for only $40-$50 per bike, so I was really tempted to just do that, but the shop manager said the downside to that was the Fat Albert tires--some risk of them not sealing as well as other tires--especially UST. Their advice was that if I wanted to stop the goathead problem and wasn't too concerned with the fact that tubeless would allow me to run lower pressures, then the Stan's + tubes solution would work great. We'll see. I know that the Slime + tubes ain't cutting it! So I'm going to mount these new tubes and see what happens.
    I was under the impression you were doing a ghetto tubeless conversion with gorilla tape. I would watch the vids on this thread and consider going tubeless. The tubes filled with stans will do the job though. I would add a little slime to it to keep the stans from drying out. But definitely checkout going tubeless as it is very easy to do.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    I was under the impression you were doing a ghetto tubeless conversion with gorilla tape. I would watch the vids on this thread and consider going tubeless. The tubes filled with stans will do the job though. I would add a little slime to it to keep the stans from drying out. But definitely checkout going tubeless as it is very easy to do.
    I think tubeless conversion (probably ghetto) will be what I do eventually, but I've gotten two "thumbs-down" on the Fat Alberts + Mavic Crossride, so I'm going to delay it. I have seen the Gorilla Tape videos and that's an option.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

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