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  1. #1
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    Gorilla tape ghetto tubeless works great.

    I saw a vid about this on youtube.

    Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0
    Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1ib5HdA5M

    So, I got the tape, some Stan's sealant and cut the presta valves out of two tubes.

    I pretty much followed the vids with these changes:

    1. Cut the tape to fit into the rim so the tape DOES NOT go up the inside walls of the rim. The tire will not seal if it does.

    2. I didnt bother with the string to measure the length of tape. I cut the tape to the correct width on the roll with a razor knife and just wound it around the rim twice

    3. On my Bontrager Mustang rims I could not get the tires to air up with one layer of tape. With two layers they puffed right up first try.

    4. Cut the rubber around the presta valve a little big so it just fits between the tire beads. This helps hold the beads in place near the valve.

    5. Air it up with soapy water to help the seal first. This will seat the bead. I then I used a tire lever to open up a little gap in the bead and squirted 2oz of Stan's sealant into the tire.

    The rest of the process is the standard wiggle the tire while rotating it then set it on its side for a minute or so...wiggle, rotate and st it on the other side. Repeat untill its seals completely.

    I weigh 210lbs and I run 28psi F and 30psi R.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by formulaone33
    I saw a vid about this on youtube.

    Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UeO8Utfny0
    Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H1ib5HdA5M

    So, I got the tape, some Stan's sealant and cut the presta valves out of two tubes.

    I pretty much followed the vids with these changes:

    1. Cut the tape to fit into the rim so the tape DOES NOT go up the inside walls of the rim. The tire will not seal if it does.

    2. I didnt bother with the string to measure the length of tape. I cut the tape to the correct width on the roll with a razor knife and just wound it around the rim twice

    3. On my Bontrager Mustang rims I could not get the tires to air up with one layer of tape. With two layers they puffed right up first try.

    4. Cut the rubber around the presta valve a little big so it just fits between the tire beads. This helps hold the beads in place near the valve.

    5. Air it up with soapy water to help the seal first. This will seat the bead. I then I used a tire lever to open up a little gap in the bead and squirted 2oz of Stan's sealant into the tire.

    The rest of the process is the standard wiggle the tire while rotating it then set it on its side for a minute or so...wiggle, rotate and st it on the other side. Repeat untill its seals completely.

    I weigh 210lbs and I run 28psi F and 30psi R.
    For mustangs the Bonti plastic strips work very well and used to be cheap. For valves the Bontrager tubeless valves are only $3.99 ea and have a removeable core making putting sealant int easy.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratt
    For mustangs the Bonti plastic strips work very well and used to be cheap. For valves the Bontrager tubeless valves are only $3.99 ea and have a removeable core making putting sealant int easy.
    Where do you get the Bontrager valves in the US?

  4. #4
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    Video shows using a UST tire...I wonder how well this method will prevent burping on standard tires (not UST or "Tubeless Ready") vs The split tube ghetto method

  5. #5
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    I am running normal (not UST or 2Bliss) Specialized Roll X Team folding tires at pretty low pressure and I have had no problems.

  6. #6
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    How many rides have you done on it?

    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    How many rides have you done on it?

    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".

    I have one weekend on them. I rode a trail system with a lot of roots and rough fast down hill sections on a hard tail...no burps.

    There are a few thousand people running Stan's tubeless kits with regular tires on all sorts of rims with no or very infrequent problems.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    Where do you get the Bontrager valves in the US?
    Any trek dealer.

  9. #9
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    This is basically the Stan's method. The deviations are in the materials he chose to use and the fact that he tapes over the valve stem after it is installed. I did one of these gorilla conversions with an old valve stem this evening. No issues, sealed right up. It's a bit easier than ghetto tubeless and obviously more tire swap friendly. We'll see how well it holds up compared to Stan's yellow tape, but rumor has it the stuff is pretty good.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  10. #10
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    I think like most Ghetto methods, it is probably dependant on the rim and tires used. I ripped my valve stem from my Ghetto strip last week. So since I'm using "Tubeless Ready" tires right now and WTB Speed Disc AM rims that have very good bead hooks...I thought I'd give it a shot (not sure I'd try this with a standard tire as I had numerous burping issues a few years back with standard tires and UST rims). I left the layer of straping tape on and did one wrap of Gorilla tape (comes in 1" x 30ft rolls, perfect width for my Speed Disc AM's) with an overlap at the valve stem hole. I had a couple of Mavic UST stems in my parts bin so I installed these after just punching a hole in the tape. 3oz of my tubeless sealant mix and about a 5 second blast from my compressor and the tires seated. One ride and a week later, they're holding air better than the Ghetto method.

    So we'll see...I'd still be nervous about standard tires since there is no seal on the bead, but for tubeless ready tires I feel pretty confident of this working.

  11. #11
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    I think the key to this working well is using one or two layers of tape depending on the depth of the rim channel. Deeper rims need a 2nd layer of tape to ease initial inflation and possibly improve the bead seal.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    I think like most Ghetto methods, it is probably dependant on the rim and tires used.
    Definitely true. For my conversion I only did one wrap in the rim bed, not a wider strip over the bead seat. The WTB rims have a sharp and deep center channel that makes this type of conversion a bit more of a dilema. I lost a few psi overnight, but will go for a ride this afternoon so that should shake the sealant around a bit more. I actually did very little shaking since the tire is a true ust, thick sidewall, maxxis. I tried to shake it a bit at the valve stem to make sure it sealed there.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  13. #13
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    Its been a few weeks now and my conversion is still going great. Bontrager Mustangs, Specialized Roll-x folding tires, Gorilla tape, Stan's sealant, and cut out presta valves from old tubes. I weight 210lb and I am running 30 in the rear and 25 in the front on a 26" hardtail. I have experienced zero problems, no burps, blow outs or even loss of pressure week to week.

    Saturday I converted 3 other bikes and we all rode today with no issues.

    Bike 1: Belongs to my GF. Fisher Joshua Z0 She is 115lb.

    Sun CR17A rims
    Specialized Captain 2.1 Wire beads
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    22psi F/ 25psi R

    Bike 2: Belongs to my best friend. Stumpy FSR Elite He is 250lb.

    Mavic 223 disc rims
    Specialized Captain 2.1 Wire beads
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    30psi F/ 35psi R

    Bike 3: Belongs to my friend's wife. Giant Cypher (Women's Trance X) She is 135lb.

    WTB Speed Disc XC rims
    Specialized Fast Trak LK S-works Folding
    Gorilla tape
    Stan's Sealant
    Cut out Presta valve stems
    22psi F/ 25psi R

    Bikes 1 and 2 needed 2 layers of tape for easy initial inflation.

    Bike 3 with the WTB rims seemed to be tubless ready as they had flat shelves for the tire beads to climb up on to. It only needed one layer of tape and it inflated and sealed instantly.

    All tires held air with no leaks of loss of pressure and no one had and burps today even on some nasty roots and very steep washed out g-outs.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the updates...I decided to try it with "Tubeless Ready" tires on my WTB Speed Disc AM 29 rims and Mavic UST Valves.

    Yes the WTB rims use "International Bead Seat" on their Laser and Speed Disc rims, its seems to really hold on to tire beads tight. The 1" wide roll of Gorilla Tape is the perfect width for LaserDisc Trail and Speed Disc AM's.

    I've been a bit limited on my rides due to trail closures (fire hazard extreme due to dry and hot summer) but I have gotten about a half dozen rides and had zero issues.

  15. #15
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    My conversion has been trouble free. It bleeds off about 10psi if I let the bike sit for a few days. I check pressure before every ride, so that is a non issue for me. I will do my other wheel sometime next week.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  16. #16
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    Has anyone tried this conversion with DT Swiss 5.1D rims?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtforester
    Has anyone tried this conversion with DT Swiss 5.1D rims?
    Just go with the Gorrilla tape, bonty rim strip method. I have the DT kit and it is awesome - remember to run real UST tires for best results.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    I'm asking because burping is usually the main issue of running standard tires on tubeless systems. I ran standard tires on UST rims many years ago and had numerous burping issues. Now running standard tires with the tube Ghetto method...none because the tire actually seals to the "rim strip". But with this Gorilla Tape method, it doesn't...it may vary from one tire to another but I would be concerned with burping since there is no seal between the tire and the "rim strip".
    That would be my biggest concern too. I have never burped a tire with the "split tube" method. I even used that method on UST wheels with regular tires, because even with a UST rim, a "regular" tire is not made to seal at the bead, and the split tube takes care of that.

    I think that with a UST, or Tubeless Ready tire, the tape would be okay, but I don't think I would trust the bead seal with a "regular" tire. I like the way the "split tube" method provides a good seal at the bead.

    In the end, if it works, it works. Lots of people think I am crazy doing the "split tube" method instead of real tubeless, but it works well for me as long as I don't try to use ultralight tires with weak sidewalls. I've been tubeless for 4 years, using Stans strips, and "split tubes" and have never burped a tire, so for me it works.

  19. #19
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    I just got back from a ride on gnarly, rooty, rain rutted single track with two friends that I did the Gorilla tubeless conversion and we are all good. No leaks, flats or burps.

    I did increase my pressure from 28F and 30R to 30 and 35 since I felt my rear rim bottom out last week. Not hard enough to do any damage but I felt it.

  20. #20
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    my experience

    sun rhyno lite rims and kenda nevegals dtc.(non ust.)
    Gorilla tape method = sucky results. Did a short ride and it burped all to hell. They were well sealed. Lost no air sitting in garage a few days. First trail ride was total failure. went from 35 psi to about 10 psi in one ride from rolling typical desert trails. LAME

  21. #21
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    E !, lots of variables (aka things to go wrong) on a tubeless conversion.

    One constant remains:
    sucky materials + poor implementation = sucky results
    Conversely:
    good materials + careful installation = success (usually)

    Personally I wouldn't use a nevegal as they have such thin sidewalls. Of course I am 240lb and ride is rocks about 80% of the time. Was the tire new or used? How was the fit onto the rim? Did you use 1 or 2 layers of tape? How wide was your tape?
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Thanks for the updates...I decided to try it with "Tubeless Ready" tires on my WTB Speed Disc AM 29 rims and Mavic UST Valves.

    Yes the WTB rims use "International Bead Seat" on their Laser and Speed Disc rims, its seems to really hold on to tire beads tight. The 1" wide roll of Gorilla Tape is the perfect width for LaserDisc Trail and Speed Disc AM's.

    I've been a bit limited on my rides due to trail closures (fire hazard extreme due to dry and hot summer) but I have gotten about a half dozen rides and had zero issues.
    I would be curious to hear some advice opinions on how adventuresome or risk taking I could be trying the Gorilla Tape conversion method on a couple of 29"er specific rims. I've got the Blunts and the Delgado Discs (wider XC rims) that I currently run converted using Stans Freeride 26" strips or the split tube ghetto method (both work just fine). Would it be worth it to mess around with one or both of these rims to give the G.Tape a shot. Curious what the tape method weight would be for a 700c rim (tape and valve weight) compared to the Freeride or split tube weight? Freeride strips are not light. I also use center channel fill (foam weatherstripping) on both of these rims with the Stans Freeride strips to keep the rimstrip from sagging down and pulling away from the rim wall cavity. Sounds like that would not be needed with the Gorilla Tape. Perhaps 2 layers of Gorilla Tape to get everything nice and snug for quick sealing and easy airing up.

    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB
    Good question. Gorilla tape isn't light either when looking at it by the inch I would guess that it is close to the weight of the split inner tube. I suppose weather strip plus freeride kit does give some wiggle room on weight. But it does add a bit more tire and rim compatibility to the equation. I think the split tube is about the most secure of the tubeless methods. Gorilla tape has worked well for me, but I am using UST tires with a thick casing so burping hasn't been an issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er
    Good question. Gorilla tape isn't light either when looking at it by the inch I would guess that it is close to the weight of the split inner tube. I suppose weather strip plus freeride kit does give some wiggle room on weight. But it does add a bit more tire and rim compatibility to the equation. I think the split tube is about the most secure of the tubeless methods. Gorilla tape has worked well for me, but I am using UST tires with a thick casing so burping hasn't been an issue.
    I would agree that the split tube method is probably the most secure burping wise. Its fault is in remounting tires...I've done it but the tube shifts and its a bit of a PITA. A double sided tape may be the solution here but I haven't tried it...I'd love to hear if anyone has. What I like about the Gorilla Tape is I can literally remove a tire, clean the rim, and install another tire. But I do believe there are a lot of variables here with both rims and tires. The WTB rims have a nice profile that actually mimics the Mavic UST rims with a nice shelf for the tire beads to lock in. Other brands don't have this...as we've seen in this thread, one user has had issues with the Rhyno Lite. Also, my "Tubeless Ready" tires seated up and stayed air tight with no issues while I've since gone and threw a new set of Kenda Klaws and it has been more troublesome. No burps so far, but the tire casing has lots of pin holes that took some time to seal. Of course, this would be an issue on the split tube method as well so its more the tire than the conversion.

  25. #25
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    Well, after trying the stans kit (didn't seem to fit the rim very well, WTB Laserdisc trails) I decided to go the DIY route.

    I did the front tire tonight with no issues. Used the gorilla tape to seal the rims, had a bontrager valve from my old bike, so tossed it in. Tire is an actual UST bluegroove because that's what I had laying around. Dry run with no sealant, aired up perfectly. So pulled the bead off a small part & put in stan's sealant & aired up again. So far so good.
    Will get a good ride on it tomorrow...if all goes well I will do the rear, but try a non-UST nevegal.

  26. #26
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    Update, got a good 17 miles in this morning despite packed trails (Don't people sleep in anymore?? LOL).
    No issues with the front bluegroove running tubeless, felt alot better than the nevegal with a tube up front for sure.
    Put it through it's paces in some rock gardens & no leaks, no burps.

    Will be converting the rear tonight with a non-ust nevegal.

  27. #27
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    Update: My girlfriend let her tires go flat in a Florida garage, in summer for 2 weeks and her stans dried out...lol! I put more in and they aired right up. She has a little leak at the pinned rim joint of her Sun CR17A rims. The Stans took care if it in seconds.

  28. #28
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    Finished the rear tire with a non-UST version nevegal + stans, it aired up right away.
    It lost a bit of air over the first 2 days, I rode it today & it held up to roots & a bunch of small jumps.
    So far so good

  29. #29
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    I have Specialized Adrenaline tires on Mavic Crossride rims. Is this going to work for a ghetto tubeless setup?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown
    I would be curious to hear some advice opinions on how adventuresome or risk taking I could be trying the Gorilla Tape conversion method on a couple of 29"er specific rims. I've got the Blunts and the Delgado Discs (wider XC rims) that I currently run converted using Stans Freeride 26" strips or the split tube ghetto method (both work just fine). Would it be worth it to mess around with one or both of these rims to give the G.Tape a shot. Curious what the tape method weight would be for a 700c rim (tape and valve weight) compared to the Freeride or split tube weight? Freeride strips are not light. I also use center channel fill (foam weatherstripping) on both of these rims with the Stans Freeride strips to keep the rimstrip from sagging down and pulling away from the rim wall cavity. Sounds like that would not be needed with the Gorilla Tape. Perhaps 2 layers of Gorilla Tape to get everything nice and snug for quick sealing and easy airing up.

    Thoughts anyone? Would dropping the split tube ghetto method or the Freeride strip conversion method be worth it for the Gorilla Tape method to shave at least part of the strip's weight from the conversion equation?

    BB
    Not exactly what you were asking, but I've started hearing that Bonty TLR rim strips work like a charm in the Blunts... you might do some research on that option as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  31. #31
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    as an aside, i can't believe this thread is still facepalm free. chas must be on vacation.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  32. #32
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    Can I do this with a Shrader valve? All my rims I have drilled out to shrader.......
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say.” – Joshua Stinebrink

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ae111black
    Can I do this with a Shrader valve? All my rims I have drilled out to shrader.......
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    Great! because I here every one talking about Presta this and Presta that.... I've abandoned Presta back in the Ninty's
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say.” – Joshua Stinebrink

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  35. #35
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    just did this with 29er crest rim, one layer of gorilla tape, presta valve cut from an old tube. weirwolf tire. aired up with a floor pump without soapy water! didn't hold more than 15-20 psi though. homebrew sealant (from the best homebrew thread) and now holding 40 psi.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather
    sure ya can... just cut the valve out of a schraeder tube. all schraeders have removeable cores AFAIK, so adding sealant and getting good air flow for seating should be easy.
    I have prestas on my tubeless setup but running schraeder valves make perfect sense for the reasons quoted above.......I just have not had the gonads to take a drill to my rims.........

  37. #37
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    i had/have the stan's rim strips in my rims for my tubeless, so i figured id try to shave some weight and make it easier for trailside repairs (dont have to remove strip, just drop remove valve and drop in a tube) and do the gorilla tape method. removed the stan's strip, cleaned the wheel, put on 1 nice clean layer with good overlap on valve area, i couldnt get the tire to seat (WTB velociraptor). i fiddled with everything, couldnt get it to seat and mount, it looked like it was tryin to, but couldnt. poped my kenda small block 8 back on and it instantly seated and sealed. had to eventually put my strips back in, and it instantly sealed.

    any ideas?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by AkumaY
    ...any ideas?
    Add more tape.

    P

  39. #39
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    I was skeptical but I converted my Am Classic Wheels with non-tubeless Schwalbe Racing Ralphs to tubeless using only electrical tape, an old threaded valve stem and some Stan's. Have 6 hours of riding on them and so far so good. Total cost $13 for the sealant. I do have an air compressor at home so inflation was a snap. The hardest part was getting the valve to hod air, I really had to crank down the nut on the valve.

  40. #40
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    I have a new set of 26" WTB Laser disc trail wheels. Will be converting to tubeless with gorilla tape and running WTB TCS Am tires, have a set of Muatano 2.4s and a set of Weirwolf 2.3s in the new TCS inner peace versions. I am going to do exactly what this guy does because IMHO every thing is logical and makes sense.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqbJ5...eature=related

    The tip of using a tube to push down the tape over night sounds like a winner.

    The only thing I will do different is use 1" wide gorilla tape and Mavic UST valves since i already have the valves and sealant and dont feel like buying the expensive effetto mariposa tape.

  41. #41
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    Thought I would post my results for people to reference in the future.

    Just successfully converted to ghetto tubeless using gorilla tape on mavic xc717/xm117 with continental mountain king 2.2s. Didn't have an air compressor, so it was a b!tch to get it to seal. Ended up having to do two layers of gorilla tape, and on the xm117, had to go back and add another layer of tape over the valve hole. I also used the mavic ust valve kit, which had rubber o-rings, couldn't imagine having to do it with standard valves.

    So glad to finally be tubeless, not gonna miss those trailside tube changes...

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    I g-taped my Laser Disc 29 last year. So far, no issues, but don't have many miles on them, either. Rampages set up super quick. Geax Saguaros had a harder time seating, but it seems to hold air better than the Rampages.

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    i just setup one of my tire this way as a trial. after an hour seems to be holding still. ride test tomorrow. setup is 29er velocity vxc rim, conti mountain king 2.4 tire. i'm excited to see this working.

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    Just wanted to give my input. I successfully mounted a kenda blue groove 2.35 to a mavic crossride front rim using electric tape over the spoke holes, then gorilla tape over that to seal airtight. I did the stan's sealant dance, used an air compressor to bead and let it sit all night. Seems to hold pressure fine, will go on a trial ride at ~25-28 psi. I did a mix of 2 parts stans/1 part slime

    I did the same set up to my velocity blunt rear wheel 26inch with schwalbe fat albert 2.25, and the tire beaded with the air compressor but it started leaking through 3 large cuts in my tire. I was hoping the sealant would seal it, but it just sprayed out instead. So I patched the tire and going to ride with a tube for a couple days to let the patch adhere and will retry converting it to tubeless. It should be successful and I will keep people interested posted!

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    I just converted a WTB Laserdisc and a Bontrager Mustang disc rim with Gorrilla take and Stans. I'm running non-UST WTB prowler SL Race tires.

    They seated very easily with a compressor, then I had to work the sealant around to stop minor leaks. A short ride and a few hours later and they appear to be holding air. I'll update after this weekend.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    Just wanted to give my input. I successfully mounted a kenda blue groove 2.35 to a mavic crossride front rim using electric tape over the spoke holes, then gorilla tape over that to seal airtight. I did the stan's sealant dance, used an air compressor to bead and let it sit all night. Seems to hold pressure fine, will go on a trial ride at ~25-28 psi. I did a mix of 2 parts stans/1 part slime

    I did the same set up to my velocity blunt rear wheel 26inch with schwalbe fat albert 2.25, and the tire beaded with the air compressor but it started leaking through 3 large cuts in my tire. I was hoping the sealant would seal it, but it just sprayed out instead. So I patched the tire and going to ride with a tube for a couple days to let the patch adhere and will retry converting it to tubeless. It should be successful and I will keep people interested posted!
    Please do follow up. I have 2.25 Fat Alberts on Mavic Crossride rims and I have to figure out some way to stop getting goathead flats! The LBS/Yeti dealer, discouraged me from trying to go tubeless with Stan's on this combination tire/rims, but these are both brand-new (original equipment on the bike) and I don't want to spring for UST wheelset/tires.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    Please do follow up. I have 2.25 Fat Alberts on Mavic Crossride rims and I have to figure out some way to stop getting goathead flats! The LBS/Yeti dealer, discouraged me from trying to go tubeless with Stan's on this combination tire/rims, but these are both brand-new (original equipment on the bike) and I don't want to spring for UST wheelset/tires.

    Hi Porschefan,
    Sorry it's been a hectic week, my riding buddy landed in the ICU. I've been decompressing from all things biking and busy with work. I never got the chance to try converting my Fat Albert's on my blunt's again, and I don't think I will anymore as the tire hasn't as favorable as my panaracer xc fire as a rear. I also read too many posts of the fat albert not being the best rear tire, as blowouts, burps happen freq due to poor beading issues. The blunt is a 28mm rim so I would rather not risk having the setup fail on me.

    My front blue groove has held through everything I've thrown at it. From small jumps at the dirt park, rock gardens, high speeds (my buddy wrecked at 30+mph, I had to dodge him and ended up riding on all sorts of stuff mainly on my front trying to slow down), small drops - the tire has held up absolutely amazing. I'm running it at 24-25PSI and I'm sure I'm able to go lower but I love the feeling of it where it's at.

    In Montana we don't have many prickly things to cause flats so I don't have any input on goat head flats.

    What type of sealant are you using? Have you tried a combo (i am using 2 parts stans, 1 part slime) to help patch the holes? Are the burrs puncturing deep and when you get the flats are you removing them right away before the sealant has time to patch some of it?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    Hi Porschefan,
    Sorry it's been a hectic week, my riding buddy landed in the ICU. I've been decompressing from all things biking and busy with work. I never got the chance to try converting my Fat Albert's on my blunt's again, and I don't think I will anymore as the tire hasn't as favorable as my panaracer xc fire as a rear. I also read too many posts of the fat albert not being the best rear tire, as blowouts, burps happen freq due to poor beading issues. The blunt is a 28mm rim so I would rather not risk having the setup fail on me.

    My front blue groove has held through everything I've thrown at it. From small jumps at the dirt park, rock gardens, high speeds (my buddy wrecked at 30+mph, I had to dodge him and ended up riding on all sorts of stuff mainly on my front trying to slow down), small drops - the tire has held up absolutely amazing. I'm running it at 24-25PSI and I'm sure I'm able to go lower but I love the feeling of it where it's at.

    In Montana we don't have many prickly things to cause flats so I don't have any input on goat head flats.

    What type of sealant are you using? Have you tried a combo (i am using 2 parts stans, 1 part slime) to help patch the holes? Are the burrs puncturing deep and when you get the flats are you removing them right away before the sealant has time to patch some of it?
    No worries--thanks for the response.

    I wen to an LBS today and talked over the situation with the guys in the shop. Decided to try a compromise solution: two new tubes with removable-core Presta valves filled with Stan's (instead of Slime).

    They do "ghetto tubeless" conversions at this shop also--and for only $40-$50 per bike, so I was really tempted to just do that, but the shop manager said the downside to that was the Fat Albert tires--some risk of them not sealing as well as other tires--especially UST. Their advice was that if I wanted to stop the goathead problem and wasn't too concerned with the fact that tubeless would allow me to run lower pressures, then the Stan's + tubes solution would work great. We'll see. I know that the Slime + tubes ain't cutting it! So I'm going to mount these new tubes and see what happens.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    No worries--thanks for the response.

    I wen to an LBS today and talked over the situation with the guys in the shop. Decided to try a compromise solution: two new tubes with removable-core Presta valves filled with Stan's (instead of Slime).

    They do "ghetto tubeless" conversions at this shop also--and for only $40-$50 per bike, so I was really tempted to just do that, but the shop manager said the downside to that was the Fat Albert tires--some risk of them not sealing as well as other tires--especially UST. Their advice was that if I wanted to stop the goathead problem and wasn't too concerned with the fact that tubeless would allow me to run lower pressures, then the Stan's + tubes solution would work great. We'll see. I know that the Slime + tubes ain't cutting it! So I'm going to mount these new tubes and see what happens.
    I was under the impression you were doing a ghetto tubeless conversion with gorilla tape. I would watch the vids on this thread and consider going tubeless. The tubes filled with stans will do the job though. I would add a little slime to it to keep the stans from drying out. But definitely checkout going tubeless as it is very easy to do.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    I was under the impression you were doing a ghetto tubeless conversion with gorilla tape. I would watch the vids on this thread and consider going tubeless. The tubes filled with stans will do the job though. I would add a little slime to it to keep the stans from drying out. But definitely checkout going tubeless as it is very easy to do.
    I think tubeless conversion (probably ghetto) will be what I do eventually, but I've gotten two "thumbs-down" on the Fat Alberts + Mavic Crossride, so I'm going to delay it. I have seen the Gorilla Tape videos and that's an option.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

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    I'm in process right now. Converting my Velocity Rims and Maxxis Ignitors EXO 29" setup. Just starting with the front. I followed the youtube, but peppered in some of the Stan's video itself. Like drilling out the inner hole first, using soapy water, and I actually kept in my rimstrip as I needed the extra meat for seating. Sealed up real well. I'll give it a test ride tomorrow.

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    Just finishing the rear. It's much easier the 2nd time thru. Can't wait to try it out.

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    Gorilla Tape didn't work nearly as well for me as electrical tape on Arch rims, two wraps.

    I believe that the electrical tape may not hold after tire changes as well but it adheres with less gaps for air to escape.
    Last edited by TunicaTrails; 06-13-2011 at 09:00 AM.

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    I could not get this method to work...only tried once though. Conti XKing 2.4...inflated and tried to seal...I think that I did not wash the inside of the tire good enough. My Conti Mountain King II 2.4 would not inflate at all. Just went with tubes, a thick DH in the rear and a regular one up front.

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    Ok here is a question for everyone. I have watched the videos multiple times and the guy says to make the strip about 1" wide.... I am assuming that the tape DOES NOT go up on the side walls but rather is almost as wide as the base inside the rim? Correct? I did that with one rim and while trying to put on my wire bead tire (still running tubes) I ended up screwing up the tape. Anyone else have this problem?

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    That's correct, with two wraps of electrical tape, put it as close to the sidewalls without going over, one wrap on one side, one on the over, you'll have good overlap.

    Although I got a great, lightweight seal with electrical tape, it's going to be tricky to keep if I change the tires. I don't swap tires often so it works for me.

    You're also going to be swimming upstream with rims other than Notubes ZTR or something similar with low sidewalls.

    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Ok here is a question for everyone. I have watched the videos multiple times and the guy says to make the strip about 1" wide.... I am assuming that the tape DOES NOT go up on the side walls but rather is almost as wide as the base inside the rim? Correct? I did that with one rim and while trying to put on my wire bead tire (still running tubes) I ended up screwing up the tape. Anyone else have this problem?

  57. #57
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    I did the gorilla tape on my cross bike and it is working great. I think if I can get it to work with 34c tires on a road rim, it will work fine on a mtb. I used Clement crusades on Easton Ea50SL wheels. I used two layers of gorilla tape, one layer as wide as the rim channel, and the second coming all the way up the inside sidewalls, similar to the split tube method. It's been holding air for a few months just fine now, only a couple of small burps from some hard landings. I can now run pressures in the low 30's as opposed to 50 psi with tubes. If you are having trouble with the gorilla tape, I suggest trying to run it all the way up the sidewalls to the bead lock.
    I also used a dab of silicone sealant around the valve going into the rim, because I didn't have room in the road rim to put a layer of tape over it. It sealed perfect.

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    I tried Gorilla tape, but had some leakage into the spoke holes. Now I use reinforced packaging tape, just wide enough to cover the holes, then Scotch 33 or Scotch 88 over that. One wrap of each. Just make sure the packaging tape is smaller width than the electrical tape. Don't use cheap electric tape. It just won't stretch and seal good enough. This has worked for me for over 2 years. Gorilla leaves a sticky mess if you have to remove it and it's heavier. Also, I like Stans over homemade. After purchasing latex at the art store along with the other ingredients, the price wasn't much different.

  59. #59
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    I've done this method (somewhat altered) on a couple of bikes with great success. What I do differently than he does in the video is after I wrap the Gorilla tape around the rim I run an exacto knife along both edges and remove the tape where it goes up the side of the rim (so it's only in the bottom). Also I don't cover up the stem with another strip of tape (never made any sense).

    Bike 1 - Spinergy Xyclone 26" rims - I have nearly 500 miles ridden on this bike with no problems. Being a heavier rider (215 lbs) and the rims being skinny I ride these at 30 psi.

    Front tire - Kenda Nevegal DTC - single wrap of tape, tire mounts easily. I use a compressor to air up, never tried just a pump on this combo
    Rear tire - Geax Saguaro TNT - Don't actually think I need the tubeless ready version of this tire but I had it on hand. Single wrap of tape, tire mounted easily


    Bike 2 - DT Swiss X420SL rims - This is a friend's bike (175 lbs) and was recently converted. He's rides at 25 psi and has had no issues.

    Front tire - Specialized Captain Control 2.2 over single layer of tape. Tire was a bit of a struggle to get on.
    Rear tire - Specialized Fast Trak Control 2.0 over a single layer of tape (just for kicks I tried a hand pump to air this one up and it inflated with no issues). This tire was also tight and a bit difficult to get on.
    I'm super, thanks for asking...

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbug View Post
    Thought I would post my results for people to reference in the future.

    Just successfully converted to ghetto tubeless using gorilla tape on mavic xc717/xm117 with continental mountain king 2.2s. Didn't have an air compressor, so it was a b!tch to get it to seal. Ended up having to do two layers of gorilla tape, and on the xm117, had to go back and add another layer of tape over the valve hole. I also used the mavic ust valve kit, which had rubber o-rings, couldn't imagine having to do it with standard valves.

    So glad to finally be tubeless, not gonna miss those trailside tube changes...
    Well my ghetto setup with the mountain kings failed me this weekend, though most(all) of the blame looks to be the fact that the stans was all dried up. I'll probably go back to tubes until I get some true ust rims, though tubeless was great while it lasted.

    Just a reminder to always keep fresh sealant in your tires, as that can be the difference between a great setup and a failed one.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbug View Post
    Well my ghetto setup with the mountain kings failed me this weekend, though most(all) of the blame looks to be the fact that the stans was all dried up. I'll probably go back to tubes until I get some true ust rims, though tubeless was great while it lasted.

    Just a reminder to always keep fresh sealant in your tires, as that can be the difference between a great setup and a failed one.
    For me if Stans dries up quicker than normal usually mean there is a hole in the tire somewhere. Can be tough to find the leak but it you do just patch it and thing may return to normal.

  62. #62
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    Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried Gaffer's Tape? How did it seal?

  63. #63
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    Anybody tried this with Sun Rhyno Lite rims?
    I'm currently riding tubes, but I'd like to try tubeless without the expensive rim strips.

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    otg - I'm not sure about the Sun rims with Gorilla Tape, but if I were you, I'd try split-tube first. You've already got tubes, so it would just cost you $10 or so for Stan's sealant. I also put a dab of Mold Builder (available at any craft store) to help seal better.

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    Gorilla tape tubeless

    I can't tell, does the tape sit in the bottom of the wheel well only or is it so wide that it goes up each side of the wheel well and become part of the bead so that the tire is sitting against it and not against the metal of the wheel?

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbbarney View Post
    I can't tell, does the tape sit in the bottom of the wheel well only or is it so wide that it goes up each side of the wheel well and become part of the bead so that the tire is sitting against it and not against the metal of the wheel?
    I used the 1" roll with dt 5.1 rims, it fits perfectly at the bottom of the rim without going up the sides. 3 years still going strong.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbbarney View Post
    I can't tell, does the tape sit in the bottom of the wheel well only or is it so wide that it goes up each side of the wheel well and become part of the bead so that the tire is sitting against it and not against the metal of the wheel?
    I bought the wider role of tape and mine goes up the sides some, but it isn't near the tire bead. I have used this for a year now and it's doing great.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

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    Just mounted an Ardent 2.4 on the stock S-XC Giant 29er rim on my Anthem with 1" Gorilla tape, stan's valve and Stan's sealant...with a hand pump! Also mounted the stock Crossmark 2.1 on the rear the same way with a CO2.

    Soapy water is the key IMHO. Ride report as soon as the trails open back up.

  69. #69
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    I posted this on the 650b forum, but figured it was relevant here.

    I may be a piss poor mechanic and a slob, but here is a pictorial on how I seated Neo 2.1 650b tire on a Velocity Blunt rim. So far, nobody makes a UST 650b tire. Schwalbe sells a TLR 650b Racing Ralph and one day I'd like to try one.

    Anyway, the rim has 3 layers of 1" gorilla tape, a valve cut from an old tube, and homebrew sealant (mold builder latex mixed with polyglycol antifreeze) injected after the tire was mounted. 1" tape is below the bead hook on this wide a rim.

    The tire mounted easily and loosely on the rim. Could not get it to seat with a compressor, even with valve core out and a pint or so of soapy water. Step two was to paint gobs of auto bead sealer around the tire beads and rim bead ledge. That created a nice mess but it still would not seat.

    Step three was to paint gobs of sealant around the tire beads and rim bead ledge (a variation of meltingfeather's sure cure seating method) and let it dry 24 hours, and this mess is what it looked like:



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Then hook up the compressor (valve core in) and apply much soapy water. Bingo. sssssssssssssss pop pop pop. Here is the inflated tire covered with soap:



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    And the mess on the basement floor:



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    And the final cleaned up product:



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    That's a lot of elbow grease to get a regular tire to seat tubeless, but the method requires no rimstrip or ghetto tube. The sucker is on until the tire wears out; does not burp (I run 25 psi front and 30 psi rear and weigh 175 lbs) ; leaks very little air between rides; and performs exactly the way I like it.

    I suppose other folks have had better success with less effort

    Note when I was running TLR and UST tires on my 26'er, I also used tape and sealant only and NEVER had to make this much effort or mess to get them to seat. TLR beads seat with a floor pump, sealant, and occasionally soapy water. Rule of thumb is the harder to mount the tire, the tighter the fit and the easier to seat. IME, UST spec beads are much harder to mount and much tighter than regular tires, and rarely require a lot of effort to seat. The exception is when they get stretched out after repeated mounting.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Rule of thumb is the harder to mount the tire, the tighter the fit and the easier to seat.
    This is key to it.

    I've used electical tape, usually over a std rim tape / liner or a layer of tape used on normal tube rims, for years now with no issues. Converted DT and Mavic not-UST rims and sealed Stans and P35 rims with this method.
    Mix latex solution and water around 3 or 4 parts to 1 ratio, line with enough tape to suit the tyre, tighten down an old valve pretty hard and use UST tyres for best results. Pouring a little latex around the bead and rotating the tyre to get it between tyre bead and rim helps seal, but normally they seal dry and then I add some sealant afterwards.

    I've not had good results with not UST or TLR tyres though. They're less puncture-resistant anyway and Iprefer the more robust / stable at low pressure UST or TLR tyres. Maxxis EXO work well.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Just mounted an Ardent 2.4 on the stock S-XC Giant 29er rim on my Anthem with 1" Gorilla tape, stan's valve and Stan's sealant...with a hand pump! Also mounted the stock Crossmark 2.1 on the rear the same way with a CO2.

    Soapy water is the key IMHO. Ride report as soon as the trails open back up.
    10 miles on fast rooty single track, some small drops and such, no problem. I let air out twice on the ride and could still probably go lower, but I don't have a good way to check my air pressure, don't really trust my floor pump. I would guess I have 24 lbs up front and about 28 in the back.

    Diggin' the fat Ardent up front. Only slid a couple times and that was in several inches of freshly fallen leaves. No burps no nothing, rode great.

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    Some may have different experiences but I found this out in my tubeless experimentation. If you run tape over the valve stem to seal it that way be sure to cut it away enough to not cover the hole at all. I didn't cut the opening in the tape enough and couldn't add more sealant through the value stem with the core removed. It hit the tape and blew back out of the hole. Also didn't like to air up very well. Figured that out, fixed it, and have loved it ever since. Running WTB SX24 rims and WTB Weirwolf 2.1s at 25psi Fr and 28psi Rr and I'm 160 lbs.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbug View Post
    Well my ghetto setup with the mountain kings failed me this weekend, though most(all) of the blame looks to be the fact that the stans was all dried up. I'll probably go back to tubes until I get some true ust rims, though tubeless was great while it lasted.

    Just a reminder to always keep fresh sealant in your tires, as that can be the difference between a great setup and a failed one.
    I know I am reviving an old thread, but this may be useful for someone that finds it. Stans will dry out! After running your tires for 3-4 months or more if you ride in a thorny area add more sealant or you will find yourself with a flat on the trail. Keep some stans, slime, or caffelatex around so this won't happen to you.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  74. #74
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    Been running mine now since my last post (bout 9 months) and it has been great! Had a couple burps but that was due to super low pressure. I do lose about a psi or two a week but nothing super bad. Looking to do this on my new CX bike, anyone have success on a 19mm wide rim (17mm internal)?

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    I haven't tried using Gorilla or electrical tape but 20" tubes split down the middle have worked very well with Geax DHEA TNT tire ont he front & a Maxxis Ardent 2.25 EXO on the rear. Very easy to set-up. Will be changing the front tire soon & was thinking of wrapping in electrical tape for added protection for the split tube.

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    tagged for future ref.
    roccowt.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarr View Post
    tagged for future ref.

    Me too.

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    Just tried this on my bontragger superstock 29er with WTB moto raptor. Rode for 10 miles on dirt and paved roads, it seems to be working fine. I'll post an update in a week.

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    I just finished installing mine on some DT Swiss X1600. I cut the tape at 22mm and did 2 loops. I'm running some Maxxis Ikon (EXO) and there where a bit tight to install (I needed to use tire leavers) but once on, I was able to pump them up with a floor pump. I used 60ml of Stans sealant and they sealed up nicely with just a few tinny bubbles in a few places on each side.

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    Just did a Conti Race King on a WTB Laser Disc 29er. Removed the cheapo rimstrip and used the 1" Gorilla tape once around and overlapped by 3 " at the valve hole. Used Stan's overpriced valve stems and 3.5 oz. of Orange Seal.

    Used my air compressor to blow the tire up with the valve core removed. The tire seated somewhat. I added the sealant after breaking a section of bead open opposite the valve. Repeated the initial blow up without the valve core. Replace the valve core and aired up to about 45psi and got loud pops and snaps as the tire seated. Minimal sealant spillage.

    I did the shake, rattle, and roll with the wheel and had minor fizzy bubbles in a few places along the bead. Those bubbles settled down quickly.

    I skipped the soapy water step that others have mentioned. Next time I will not skip that step because initial air up was touchy and critial. I may have considerd setting fire to the wheel had I not had an air compressor.

  81. #81
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    just did this to a Mavic 321 and a Conti Race King 2.2. Took a few minutes of messing around to get the tire to air up with my compressor and for a while I thought it wasn't gonna happen, but I kept pushing the tire around and stuff and it finally went. Seems to be holding air. We'll see overnight. Was WAY easier than I thought! Can't believe I didnt do this sooner!

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er View Post
    My conversion has been trouble free. It bleeds off about 10psi if I let the bike sit for a few days. I check pressure before every ride, so that is a non issue for me. I will do my other wheel sometime next week.
    Damn, I've been running Maxxis Ardents with tube strips on Shimano MT-55's for two months, and haven't lost a single psi. Been riding the **** out of them too. I think Maxxis tires are one of the friendliest when it comes to tubless. Just converted my Aspens on another rimset today, inflated and sealed immediately.

  83. #83
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    Going to give this a shot.

  84. #84
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    Did a rear Small Block 8 (wire bead) on the WTB rim with roughly the same procedure below. Setup and seated bead quickly but lost all air overnight. Aired it up and rode on it for 16 miles and raced the next day over the weekend. Its Wednesday now and havent added any air since last Friday... still good.


    Quote Originally Posted by h3hound View Post
    Just did a Conti Race King on a WTB Laser Disc 29er. Removed the cheapo rimstrip and used the 1" Gorilla tape once around and overlapped by 3 " at the valve hole. Used Stan's overpriced valve stems and 3.5 oz. of Orange Seal.

    Used my air compressor to blow the tire up with the valve core removed. The tire seated somewhat. I added the sealant after breaking a section of bead open opposite the valve. Repeated the initial blow up without the valve core. Replace the valve core and aired up to about 45psi and got loud pops and snaps as the tire seated. Minimal sealant spillage.

    I did the shake, rattle, and roll with the wheel and had minor fizzy bubbles in a few places along the bead. Those bubbles settled down quickly.

    I skipped the soapy water step that others have mentioned. Next time I will not skip that step because initial air up was touchy and critial. I may have considerd setting fire to the wheel had I not had an air compressor.

  85. #85
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    Just for fun and 28 estimated grams of weight savings I tried one small 23mm by 25mm wide patch of Gorilla tape over each spoke hole on the cheap carbon rims from Light bikes. Each piece of tape was carefully cut off the roll and then placed squarely over the spoke hole with my index finger, making sure that the patch was centered over and into the hole as far as my finger could press it. After that, the edges of the tape were pressed down against the inside of the rim using a wooden dowel with a rounded tip. Tioga Genius tires were aired up to 40 psi without Stan’s to check for leakage and to make sure the tape was set before I added Stan’s a few hours later. So, two weeks later and about 100 km of riding on this WW Ghetto mod without fail. Gorilla Tape Rocks, even in small portions.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by PB Matrix View Post
    Just for fun and 28 estimated grams of weight savings I tried one small 23mm by 25mm wide patch of Gorilla tape over each spoke hole on the cheap carbon rims from Light bikes. Each piece of tape was carefully cut off the roll and then placed squarely over the spoke hole with my index finger, making sure that the patch was centered over and into the hole as far as my finger could press it. After that, the edges of the tape were pressed down against the inside of the rim using a wooden dowel with a rounded tip. Tioga Genius tires were aired up to 40 psi without Stan’s to check for leakage and to make sure the tape was set before I added Stan’s a few hours later. So, two weeks later and about 100 km of riding on this WW Ghetto mod without fail. Gorilla Tape Rocks, even in small portions.
    By using squares of tape there is obviously no benefit of the tape adding to the bead-bed for a tighter interface with the tire. If this is the case what is the advantage of the heavy gorilla tape over thinner, lighter tapes? I just bought a roll of 1" gorilla tape for 2.99, so I'm guessing its cost. Otherwise, I want the best tire-rim interface I can get, light weight, then cost. So..... Am I looking at rhythm strips, yellow tape, a full wrap of G-tape, or what?

    I will be building up my light-bicycle rims shortly, and hoping for a good tubeless experience...
    --Reamer

  87. #87
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    To me, I prefer that the wanna be tubeless tire bead sits in and on the rim instead of some slippery tape. Why do I use G-tape, cost and availabilty is the major factor in my mind. One strip of G-Tape per wheel costs a buck or so from the big rolls, and if for some reason it needs to be replaced due to a broken spoke or whatever, I do not feel like I wasted what ever the tubeless specific tapes cost. Plus having G-tape around the workshop is great for many other things beside making tubeless tires.

  88. #88
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    Going to buy my first 27.5er this week and want to go immediately tubeless when I purchase it. Anybody have a favorite 27.5 tire for this tubeless method?
    Ride it into the ground.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by wacobkr View Post
    Going to buy my first 27.5er this week and want to go immediately tubeless when I purchase it. Anybody have a favorite 27.5 tire for this tubeless method?
    You may want to start a specific thread on the 27.5. I have no interest in it myself. Maxxis tires have always been the easiest for me to convert.
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    that's the stupidest idea this side of pinkbike.

  90. #90
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    Gorilla tape ghetto tubeless works great.

    Quote Originally Posted by AL29er View Post
    You may want to start a specific thread on the 27.5.
    I will hopefully the guys over there have some suggestions thanks!
    Ride it into the ground.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by wacobkr View Post
    Going to buy my first 27.5er this week and want to go immediately tubeless when I purchase it. Anybody have a favorite 27.5 tire for this tubeless method?
    I would just get tires that are good for your riding conditions / trails because nearly every tire will work fine tubeless on your MTB. I have had success with even ones that have been reported to be difficult to setup. I mean, what is the point if it is easy(er) to setup tubless but the tread pattern / compound sucks on your trails?

    Make sure to get an air compressor to get the burst of air to pop the tire on the rim, and use soapy water (with a big brush) all around the bead on both sides (I have tried skipping this step and it has never worked).

    Personally, I use the presta stems with a removable core, then I remove the core and use the plastic connector on my compressor for filling pool toys, it fits perfect in the wide open presta valve, then I blast 110psi from the air compressor in there. Once the tire seats and has pressure I then take off the hose, and put my finger over the presta valve hole, then quickly put the core back in. You really do not loose that much air when putting it back in. Then I just adjust the pressure with my floor pump.

    Make sure to follow the steps in the videos published by STANS (shaking the tire on its side / etc).

    Good luck and have fun. Been tubeless for 2+ years, and there is no way I could ever run tubes again. Probably setup 5 different brands/models of tires and they have all worked fine.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarr View Post
    tagged for future ref.
    You do know you can select "Thread Tools" menu on the top of this page and select "Subscribe to this thread..." to get notifications of new posts / etc, so that you do not need to post things like this, right?

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by wacobkr View Post
    Going to buy my first 27.5er this week and want to go immediately tubeless when I purchase it. Anybody have a favorite 27.5 tire for this tubeless method?
    I have converted a lot of tires to tubeless using both "split-tube ghetto" method, and also on Flow rims.

    The biggest guideline I follow is to not use super light tires, but I live in AZ, and the trails I ride are brutally rocky. Stay the hell away from tires like the "S works" versions from Specialized. Use their trail versions instead, the S-works are too thin.

    I recently converted my Firebird to 27.5 and I'm using 2.3 Pacenti Neo Moto tires. They sealed up easily, and the sidewalls have held up fine so far.

  94. #94
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    Gorilla tape ghetto tubeless works great.

    Just used this method with the stock rims on my Giant Talon 27.5 4 and WTB Wolverines Race 2.2 on both front and back. The bead on this tire sits very tightly on the rim so initial dry run seated the tire with my Topeak joe blow mountain floor pump just fine. Small air leaks at first but I shook the Stan's around a lot and they sealed right up. After the first day the tires seem to have lost a little bit of air pressure. I will reinflate and shake the Stan's around again before I go for the first ride on them. Will report back with the performance after the maiden voyage.
    Ride it into the ground.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by wacobkr View Post
    Just used this method with the stock rims on my Giant Talon 27.5 4 and WTB Wolverines Race 2.2 on both front and back. The bead on this tire sits very tightly on the rim so initial dry run seated the tire with my Topeak joe blow mountain floor pump just fine. Small air leaks at first but I shook the Stan's around a lot and they sealed right up. After the first day the tires seem to have lost a little bit of air pressure. I will reinflate and shake the Stan's around again before I go for the first ride on them. Will report back with the performance after the maiden voyage.
    Good to hear...don't forget to update.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarr View Post
    Good to hear...don't forget to update.
    Did a ride this morning. ~30 psi back and ~28 front. I weigh ~160 lbs and I will probably go down to a lower air pressure for my next ride in both back and front. Was very pleased with the performance of this setup. The stan's seems to have sealed up any and all small air leaks. It may be working too well in fact because the presta valves that I cut out of punctured tubes for this method are getting clogged with stan's now, making it difficult to put air in/out of the tire. I also used the method in the video where I put a strip of gorilla tape over the top of the cutout valve and then made a hole in the tape with a knife, and I wonder if that is contributing to stan's clogging of the valves?

    When my stan's dries out I will probably go back and re-tape the rims with a foam weather-strip first and gorilla tape on top because these rims have a deep internal channel and I found the tires seat much easier when that channel is filled up with tape. I also will not run a strip of tape over the top of the presta valve. I think I heard somewhere using a bit of silicone sealant when inserting the valve will achieve a good seal.
    Ride it into the ground.

  97. #97
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    Just did this today on my front tire. Just to test the waters on. Gorilla tape, 2oz of stans sealant, and a 24 inch tube. Only trouble was I couldn't get it to air up on my hand pump. Quick drive to the corner store and used their air compressor. Pumped up to 40psi, to test and seal. Will drop to 28-30 psi tomorrow after work. If it holds, I will be doing the rear as well. Under $20 bucks, and about an hour off labor. Not to shabby I might say.

    Spilt tube, on stock giant revel 29er rims and tires. Just for a reference.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747

  98. #98
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    Infes7, why are you doubling the weight?? You are using two methods that work independently, as in standard rim tape with a 24" tube or Gorilla tape. No need for both at the same time

  99. #99
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    Re: Gorilla tape ghetto tubeless works great.

    Quote Originally Posted by PB Matrix View Post
    Infes7, why are you doubling the weight?? You are using two methods that work independently, as in standard rim tape with a 24" tube or Gorilla tape. No need for both at the same time
    Just gorilla tape not rim tape. I just covered the spoke holes. Also one round of tape around the rim. It's a spilt 24 inch tube.

    http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/f19...tricks-240026/

    This is the guide I followed, worked great. Reasons I went this way was 1. Better grip from lower pressure 2. No pinch flats 3. I like to tinker, so I did this to please me. :-)

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747

  100. #100
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    one wrap of gorilla tape, covering the spoke holes, is enough.

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