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  1. #1
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    ghetto- yellow tape, pipe, tape, flapped tubes, or other?

    OK-

    I'm a minimalist; I'm thinking of cutting a presta from a tube, and then:

    1. yellow tape ....how to install in rim, how wide? advantage/disadvantage??

    2. pipe tape ....same ques.

    3. flapped over tube... same ques; but thinking this just adds weight/complexity so if it seals w/ method 1 or 2, why bother?

    4. tube trimmed to under bead edge... same ques; but thinking this just also adds weight/complexity so if it seals w/ method 1 or 2, why bother?

    Using home brew sealant; mold builder, slime, etc...rims are wtb xc lite.

    I won't be using stan's or a ust valve.

    Lemee know what you think...
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  2. #2
    trail rat
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    My first, second, and only ghetto was done with strapping tape and a split tube, so number 3 and then trimmed to number 4. Worked fine for me, until I needed to add more fluid. I went to the NoTubes rim strips on those wheels. I have two sets of Arches with yellow tape and notubes valve stems. Muy mo' bettah!
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  3. #3
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    Go for it! Nr. 1 & 2 will not work on all rims, just try. Obviously, the tape should cover to just below the bead hook on the rim.

    For a valve you could use one from a Schwalbe(e.g.) tube. They have removeable cores, ideal for greater airflow when setting the bead, and for refilling.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by flexbaba
    Go for it! Nr. 1 & 2 will not work on all rims, just try. Obviously, the tape should cover to just below the bead hook on the rim.
    Where do you get the yellow tape? Is the pipe tape better?
    Just one pass?

    Why do people have to build up the middle w/foam insulation? Won't seat?



    Quote Originally Posted by flexbaba
    For a valve you could use one from a Schwalbe(e.g.) tube. They have removeable cores, ideal for greater airflow when setting the bead, and for refilling.
    ....that sounds great..BUT- I'm too cheap!

    Don't know why I'm making a big deal of this; I guess just the 'mess' aspect if it burps, or when changing tires.???

    I have everything I need but for the tape...
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  5. #5
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    this a good thread.

    Just find your way into tubeless, it's not really a one way road.

  6. #6
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    i used method 4 to good effect (and still do on several bikes i have) but my daily rider now has a mavic wheelset with 2bliss tires.

    the method i used takes a lot of time, but works on any wheelset and tire combination. so if you want that awesome tire in a 2.4 width in tubeless, you can get it. even on you're old pinned rims.

  7. #7
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    I just flipped the bird to Bontrager, by not buying their rim strips for a tubeless conversion.

    1) Two old tubes; cut the valves off.
    2) Cut clear, all-weather duct tape (much nicer to work with and apply/remove than "traditional" duct tape) into 1" width, apply around rim 2x.
    3) Poke hole in duct tape at valve hole, insert valve.
    4) Insert a bit of the sealant du jour.
    5) Air up the tire with a compressor*, manually moving the bead out to the rim in sections that aren't hooking up.

    *Goooooood luck doing this without a compressor.

    First wheel took me 15min, the second took me 5min. Total cost was ~$4.50 for a roll of clear duct tape. Tires have held steady for the last 4 days now. Took the front wheel out on my ride Sunday; the lower pressure and big volume of the XDX on the wide Rhythm Comp was much appreciated with the recent snowfall, compared to my normal Jones XR front, mounted on the 355 29er rim.

  8. #8
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    I used method 4. Single layer of black e-tape on the rim (to keep it clean) then a single layer of strapping tape, then a sliced open 20" bmx tube, then mount the tire and add goop, inflate, trim excess tube width by running knife along top edge of rim.

    Pretty fast process, and it lasted 6 months with no maintenance. Sure, it "adds more weight" - about half the weight of a 20" bmx tube! Are you worried about those 50 grams? I suspect most of it is in the stem (which you need anyhow) and the other methods use more tape, so it may well work out the same. Its still lighter than a "real" tubeless rimstrip.

    Complexity? I dunno, maybe- seems the simplest system to fully seal the goop so it stays in to me. Changing it does require a new tube, and getting the tire on can be a pain, but its really not all that bad.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by flexbaba
    this a good thread.

    Just find your way into tubeless, it's not really a one way road.

    Yes, thanks, bit I am wanting to NOT used the flapped tire...
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fungazi
    I used method 4. Single layer of black e-tape on the rim (to keep it clean) then a single layer of strapping tape, then a sliced open 20" bmx tube, then mount the tire and add goop, inflate, trim excess tube width by running knife along top edge of rim.

    Pretty fast process, and it lasted 6 months with no maintenance. Sure, it "adds more weight" - about half the weight of a 20" bmx tube! Are you worried about those 50 grams? I suspect most of it is in the stem (which you need anyhow) and the other methods use more tape, so it may well work out the same. Its still lighter than a "real" tubeless rimstrip.

    Complexity? I dunno, maybe- seems the simplest system to fully seal the goop so it stays in to me. Changing it does require a new tube, and getting the tire on can be a pain, but its really not all that bad.
    OK, so you're atually using method#3...you are trimming from outside after mounting.
    #4, some folks are cutting the inner tube to under the bead lip.

    I'm hoping someone who is NOT using the tube (just a valve and tape) can chime in, please?
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  11. #11
    eBiker
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecoast
    Yes, thanks, bit I am wanting to NOT used the flapped tire...
    If you have the WTB rims with the UST-like bench you will probably only need tape.

    From WTB, http://www.wtb.com/technology/wheels/:
    GBS
    WTB’s proprietary Global Bead Seat design utilizes deeper grooves for the bead seats as well as two raised lips that lock the tire’s beads into place on the rim. GBS–featured on LaserDisc, SpeedDisc and Dual Duty series rims–holds the tire firmly in place and greatly reduces the chance of “burping” the tire off the rim in heavy lateral loading.
    P

  12. #12
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    I found 10 mil pipe tape very effective, and one roll will do many wheels. I got the 2 inch width and used a razor blade (carefully....) to trim right up under the bead. I did use a layer of strapping tape under the pipe tape.

    Don't skimp on getting a valve with removeable core (off of a slime or conti tube) , along with a core remover (I use the notubes core remover with a rubber band wrapped around it for extra grip).
    ***

  13. #13
    oooh, shiny...
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    Just found this on youtube, only hours after doing the cut tube on my wheels.

    Part1


    Part2

  14. #14
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    Yellow tape (aka filament tape) and cut out valve works fine on my WTB rims (2 sets) and also works fine on many others as well. I do 2 layers of tape just to be sure. As others said, buy conti/schwalbe tubes for their removable core, it's money well spent. Now get to it!! Steve

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevo the Devo
    Yellow tape (aka filament tape) and cut out valve works fine on my WTB rims (2 sets) and also works fine on many others as well. I do 2 layers of tape just to be sure. As others said, buy conti/schwalbe tubes for their removable core, it's money well spent. Now get to it!! Steve
    Why bother buying tubes? Bontrager/Trek tubeless stems are only $3.99 each.

  16. #16
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    Why are you opposed to the flapped tube?

    Quote Originally Posted by ecoast
    Yes, thanks, bit I am wanting to NOT used the flapped tire...
    Why are you opposed to the flapped over tube? I mounted some tires on my 29er this weekend using ghetto. I did them ghetto last year and they held up perfectly all season. I cut up some new tubes (continental 26" w/ removable presta core) for the new season and things aired up first try with compressor no problems. No tape, no foam, no soapy water, no complexity, 0.35 lbs lighter than last year's setup due to lighter tires this time around. Remember that even though you are adding a tube, it is a smaller diameter tube than what your wheel would normally use and you are also then trimming away about 2/3 of that tube after things are mounted.

    I have cracked the seal on ghetto tubeless mounted in this fashion and taken the tire off and put it back on, it is not that difficult to get things reseated. The tubes I used last year did not have removable cores so I had to break the bead seal each time I added new sealant. This season I used tubes with removable presta cores.

    I'm also a Stan's fan. $14 for a bottle that lasts most of a season between two tubeless bikes, is it really saving money to reinvent the wheel?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa
    Why are you opposed to the flapped over tube? I mounted some tires on my 29er this weekend using ghetto. I did them ghetto last year and they held up perfectly all season. I cut up some new tubes (continental 26" w/ removable presta core) for the new season and things aired up first try with compressor no problems. No tape, no foam, no soapy water, no complexity, 0.35 lbs lighter than last year's setup due to lighter tires this time around. Remember that even though you are adding a tube, it is a smaller diameter tube than what your wheel would normally use and you are also then trimming away about 2/3 of that tube after things are mounted.

    I have cracked the seal on ghetto tubeless mounted in this fashion and taken the tire off and put it back on, it is not that difficult to get things reseated. The tubes I used last year did not have removable cores so I had to break the bead seal each time I added new sealant. This season I used tubes with removable presta cores.

    I'm also a Stan's fan. $14 for a bottle that lasts most of a season between two tubeless bikes, is it really saving money to reinvent the wheel?

    Well, I'm opposed to the flapped tube because it's redundant.

    Additionally, the homebrew vs. stan's is less expensive seems to work as well, and stays liquid longer.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevo the Devo
    Yellow tape (aka filament tape) and cut out valve works fine on my WTB rims (2 sets) and also works fine on many others as well. I do 2 layers of tape just to be sure. As others said, buy conti/schwalbe tubes for their removable core, it's money well spent. Now get to it!! Steve
    Steve-
    So you are not using the flapped tube?
    When you say filament tape, do you mean the 3m strapping tape?

    I found the 10mil, 2" pipe tape for 6.27, so I'm gonna try it.

    It's made from pvc, and seems to exactly what you need...we'll see, just need eg antifreeze to finish sealant.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecoast
    Well, I'm opposed to the flapped tube because it's redundant.

    Additionally, the homebrew vs. stan's is less expensive seems to work as well, and stays liquid longer.
    flapped tube = same function as the yellow tape or pipe tape. It seals up the rim channel. But I can see where tape is lighter than rubber.

    I've never made my own, but is a bottle of anti freeze, windex, and a jug of mold builder <$13? I suppose you make more per batch and if it stays liquid longer that would be an improvement over Stan's. But I'm still a Stan's fan. Good luck!
    Last edited by ewarnerusa; 03-09-2009 at 11:26 AM.

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