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  1. #1
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    Exhausted with tubeless goop.

    Going to try my first tubeless set-up. Tired of worthless slime tubes. Lots of homework has left me still wondering which goop to use. Looks like the 24" split tube method will be most reliable for my 650b Neo-moto's and whineman's.

    I would just go with Stans, but I don't think removing big boogers every three to six months sounds very professional (as a product). I looked at the sites. Orange seal, very little info other than ours is the best. Flat-attack, truckerco, Victor heavy duty sealant, Slime pro. Homebrew leaves me with thoughts of a chemestry lab test gone bad (JOKE).

    If Stans didn't dry up it would be a no brainer, but jeepers, I need a aspirin.

    Testimonials, reviews. That would help!

  2. #2
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    I've been using Stan's for a year or so. All the guys I ride with who ride tubeless ride Stan's. We put more fluid in after 6 months or so, but never have to take the tires off to clean them out or anything. We wear out tires before they'd get too bad anyway. Total disclosure: I haven't used any other tubeless brews, but Stan's is easy enough and reliable enough that I haven't been motivated to go searching.
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  3. #3
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    As I undertand it, auto tire sealants are primarily designed to plug puntures (various particles suspened in antifreeze solution) while latex based tubeless bicycle tire sealants asre designed to seal beads and to make non UST tire casings airtight. Your NeoMotos are not a UST or a TLR tire - they are designed to be run with tubes and not tuebless. To get them to run tubless you wil need a latex base sealant. Stans has been around the longest and is tried and true. If you check the no tubes website, the MSDS for the sealantt found here lists 3 ingresientrs: liquid latex, propylene glycol, and water. Not that there might not be other ingredients. But it is easy to find inexpnsive liquid latex and propylene glycol used in non toxic antifreezee online. Mix them 1 part latex, 2 parts antifreeze plus water as needed to thin. Trust me this homebrew works fine. FYI I hve 4 neomotos, three 2.1's and one 2.3 all mounted and running tubeless. The easy part is mixing the selant. Getting non tubeless tires to seat can make your head ache. There are various methods, all requiring latex sealant: Stans rim strip, ghetto split tube, gorilla duct tape. You have to plug the spoke holes in the rim with tape such as Stans yellow tape, and support the tire bead so it won't burp or blow off the rim which is normally the job of the tube of tube. I use gorilla tape alone, no rim strip or ghetto tube which has worked fine for months on 2 650b bikes. but not a normally accepted or reccommended method, but the least expensive as well as least labor intensive.


    check you tube and other threads in this forum.. There are a a lot of ways to run tubleless. the questions and the variations are 1) how expensive; 2) how heavy 3) how difficult and 4) how reliable (safe)? The notubes wesbite has a list of non tubeless tires compatible with notubes rimstrips. A lot of folks on the 650b forum run Pacentis as well as Nevagals tubeless wiith sealant and gorilla tape only (me for example).
    Last edited by dwt; 03-26-2012 at 03:46 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbowho View Post

    I would just go with Stans, but I don't think removing big boogers every three to six months sounds very professional (as a product).
    Well, split tube is pretty unprofessional too. But stans works. If you haven't even tried it yet the sealant will be the least of your worries. Getting the tires to stay locked on to the rims with a strip of rubber stuck between the bead and the rim is job one.

  5. #5
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    NB: Slime Pro doesn't dry out or booger up like Stan's

    Also, get a real UST setup, or at least a rim with a bead lock.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    NB: Slime Pro doesn't dry out or booger up like Stan's

    Also, get a real UST setup, or at least a rim with a bead lock.
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
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  7. #7
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    The homebrew sealant I use is:

    1 part green slime
    1 part Latex Mold Builder (+/-)
    1 part Anti-freeze
    2 parts water (+/-) to "taste"

    and works fine for me in a majority of setups (split tube and gorilla tape)
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
    Dried out over the course of what time frame?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    The homebrew sealant I use is:

    1 part green slime
    1 part Latex Mold Builder (+/-)
    1 part Anti-freeze
    2 parts water (+/-) to "taste"

    and works fine for me in a majority of setups (split tube and gorilla tape)
    Similar for me, with some mods
    1 part Slime for Tubeless Tires (found cheaper at Autoparts Store, with small black chunks in it)
    1 part Mold Builder
    2 parts RV Antifreeze (non-toxic, already diluted, cheap)
    +/- glitter for chunks

    Been using the current formula for a couple years after tweaking it over the course of a year or two. But it does still get the boogers after about 6 months.

  10. #10
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    Real good people. Everyone stayed on topic which gave me some hands on insight. DWT I'm going to go with strips, and stans thank you, your experience with what I am running is a big help. LightJunction makes a point I wanted to hear. 92gli, the vid of a 24" tube seemed easy, but your point makes sense, I will hold off on that for now. No more slime for me either Shiggy! And I'm not ready to go full proper set up until I hurt what I have. I'm old school but couldn't hold out any longer with slime flats. Thanks

    Update!! Cancel.

  11. #11
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    Well for all you noobs at tubeless, it's fairly simple. But I did do some one off stuff that worked flawlessly. First, I opted out of Stan's stems due to them only coming in presta. (I have shrader). So I stole the shrader valves from my offroad used tube stash. With a grinder and wire wheel, I had two perfect threaded shraders with zero rubber on them and ground down perfectly to fit a o-ring. Sano, snug, hope it works long term. No strips either, I used 10-mil plumbers tape, basically a heavy duty electrical tape and very tacky. Stans was good advice, I was a bit surprised how fast they popped into place and sealed right up. I'm a plumber so this stuff was all on hand.

    Suggestion for us noobs! Do a dry run first with soapy squirt bottle to make sure it holds air, then pour in the juice. I found putting the wheels back on a upside down bike a handy tool. PS air compresor.

  12. #12
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    I didn't refresh my former front tire since, maybe, mid-summer. I replaced the tire a few days ago & it still had liquid in it. All the inside was coated with Stan's 'moss' (that's what it reminded me of). I live in TX so last summer was SUPER HOT. It may have been more like late summer since putting in some extra Stan's but it was still awhile & it lasted longer than I thought it would. I run ghetto tubeless & the bead was stuck to the split tube but wasn't difficult to remove.

    Before putting in Stan's, I check for leaks & let it sit for a bit. So far, no leaks of any kind. I've used Geax TNT Dhea, Maxxis EXO Ardent, & Schwalbe Hans Dampf.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    FWIW there will be a new sealant released this summer by a major player that addresses these "issues" and still seals the bead on tightly. Completely different formula than the popular brand. I'm sworn to secrecy so that's all I can say but they did give me some for testing today so I'll know real soon if they have elevated the game. Their lab testing has shown that it seals tires that are difficult to seal with the other brand for initial mounting so that's another big plus. Tire technology is also changing as a result of better sealants but I can't reveal how just yet. Let's just say tubes are going the way of V-brakes soon - a lot sooner than peeps might think.

    Have FUN!

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  15. #15
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    There is also Orange Seal Cyclery made in TX. My lbs told me they're started using it & like it more than Stan's b/c it is less watery so doesn't dry out as fast.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    FWIW there will be a new sealant released this summer by a major player that addresses these "issues" and still seals the bead on tightly. Completely different formula than the popular brand. I'm sworn to secrecy so that's all I can say but they did give me some for testing today so I'll know real soon if they have elevated the game. Their lab testing has shown that it seals tires that are difficult to seal with the other brand for initial mounting so that's another big plus. Tire technology is also changing as a result of better sealants but I can't reveal how just yet. Let's just say tubes are going the way of V-brakes soon - a lot sooner than peeps might think.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Awesome news, THANKS!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
    I don't believe you, this time.
    I am immune to your disdain.

  18. #18
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    I use the home brew sealant recipe listed in this thread. I have still had a nice booger form before, and I still get sealant drying out. Although it is more on an annual basis instead of every couple of months. I think it is not so much drying out as seeping through the sidewalls. I notice that my tires all eventually have very weepy sidewalls when I use the homebrew. Not that I'm losing air pressure, but some part of the sealant is weeping out. I think it is the anti freeze.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
    I use the home brew sealant recipe listed in this thread. I have still had a nice booger form before, and I still get sealant drying out. Although it is more on an annual basis instead of every couple of months. I think it is not so much drying out as seeping through the sidewalls. I notice that my tires all eventually have very weepy sidewalls when I use the homebrew. Not that I'm losing air pressure, but some part of the sealant is weeping out. I think it is the anti freeze.
    Thats what is happening with my homebrew sealant. Green ooze coming out of the tires if the bike sits for too long.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Thats what is happening with my homebrew sealant. Green ooze coming out of the tires if the bike sits for too long.
    Yup, that's what mine all end up looking like. I pretty much always use Specialized 2Bliss tires and when they are new there will be no seepage. But after a while it starts. I think I scuff the sidewalls a lot and that lets the seeping start. As long as I'm not losing air pressure then it doesn't really concern me. But it is a bit filthy looking and it collects trail dust. I smell like an auto mechanic after handling my tires.

  21. #21
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    I'm having lunch with the guys making the new sealant on Monday so I'll find out when it will be publicly released and just what info I can say here. I've been using it for only a month but so far I find that it holds air better than Stan's does when used with standard tires (non-UST) so that has been a big plus. They swear that it doesn't dry out like Stan's either - easily last a year or more. The company behind this... let's just say they're a MAJOR player in the bicycle industry and they have every intention of dominating that market with something better.

    Have FUN!

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  22. #22
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I'm having lunch with the guys making the new sealant on Monday so I'll find out when it will be publicly released and just what info I can say here. I've been using it for only a month but so far I find that it holds air better than Stan's does when used with standard tires (non-UST) so that has been a big plus. They swear that it doesn't dry out like Stan's either - easily last a year or more. The company behind this... let's just say they're a MAJOR player in the bicycle industry and they have every intention of dominating that market with something better.
    Stans consists of liquid latex, propylene glycol and water. All tubeless mtn bike sealants are latex based except Cafelatex, which uses an artificial latex concoction. The reviews in this forum of Cafelatex are not exactly glowing as far as sealing punctures. The main use for latex sealants is to seal beads and casings on non UST tires so they can be run tubeless. If you can't achieve an air tight seal, you don't have a tubeless tire. Sealing punctures is related, but really another subject.

    Many MTBR tubeless riders have concocted their own latex based "homebrews", costing a fraction of any commercial sealant and working as well or better. What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.

    I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano.

    I will argue in advance that whatever they come up with has been done before, and it will be a variation of the S.O.S. Period. It will NOT be better or even different. Anybody who falls for it is a victim of marketing and nothing more.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.
    Slime pro does not booger up like Stan's does. The Slime Pro people at Sea Otter also told me that you can use CO2 with their sealant.

    [Latex in solution begins to coagulate when the pH starts to go down, i.e. becomes more acidic. This can either happen because the ammonia that buffers the latex somehow "goes away", or by the addition of CO2, which goes into solution as carbonic acid]

    What this tells me is that S.P. must have some kind of a better buffer solution than Stan's.

    Also, S.P. does become more viscous with time. I recently reconstituted mine with water, and it seemed to still seal up sidewall leaks just fine.

  24. #24
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    The best results I've has are with stans....I've not personally tried everything, but in my riding group we have. The balls of latex you must expect, most of them come from small punctures that you never even knew existed until you removed the tyre. The massive balls I've really only ever come across when I did DIY sealant (as mentioned above). Those ones tend to break back down into their constituent parts....ie the radiator fluid will weep out of the tyre pores.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    ...I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano...
    What about Conti? Has anyone got hold of the new Conti sealant?

    What about the OKO sealants - they've been doing non bike tubeless stuff for decades and now have two different types of bike sealant - an XC type and a "extreme" type. Has anyone tried their stuff?

  26. #26
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    What this tells me is that S.P. must have some kind of a better buffer solution than Stan's.
    Don't tell me that sealant is now a religion like wheel size

    I think "better" is in the eyes of the beholder. Price OTOH is objective. SP is more expensive than Stans. Whether its better and worth it is up to you.

    I don't care if some new "super sealant" claims it's "better" than SP or Stans. If it's expensive it's a rip off. I can brew pretty much the same solution in my basement (and have for years) for a miniscule cost, and infallible reliability.

    It's your money, but there are many paths, not one.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Stans consists of liquid latex, propylene glycol and water. All tubeless mtn bike sealants are latex based except Cafelatex, which uses an artificial latex concoction. The reviews in this forum of Cafelatex are not exactly glowing as far as sealing punctures. The main use for latex sealants is to seal beads and casings on non UST tires so they can be run tubeless. If you can't achieve an air tight seal, you don't have a tubeless tire. Sealing punctures is related, but really another subject.

    Many MTBR tubeless riders have concocted their own latex based "homebrews", costing a fraction of any commercial sealant and working as well or better. What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.

    I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano.

    I will argue in advance that whatever they come up with has been done before, and it will be a variation of the S.O.S. Period. It will NOT be better or even different. Anybody who falls for it is a victim of marketing and nothing more.
    I have converted to cafeLatex 100% now. It did get a bad rep, but it actually seals beads and such better than stans and doesn't weep do to it's skinning property. Everyone whined about the skinning but it's actually a good thing as it doesn't weep if stood for a long time like the home brews do.

    I've seen the stans booger up more than once, dries up faster. But, the CaffeLatex does have a harder time sealing the larger holes. I started adding a few pinches of glitter to the stuff and it's been flawless for a few years now. I've had 2 flat in 3 yrs with it and both were 3/4" or longer gashes in the side walls.. and the last one even though the Caffelatex didn't 100% seal it I did get it to hold it closed enough to get out riding, just had to keep pumping up ever few miles.. and the sealant was EVERYwhere on the frame.

    I've gotten more than a few non tubeless setups that Stans wouldn't seal to work with the Caffelatex, including my own getto setup with Gorilla tape on P-35 rims and the older version of Mtn king 29er tires. With Stans I was loosing air and having to pump up the tires every few weeks. once I got the Caffe Latex and got a couple rides in it never leaked again.

    One note.. Stans and Caffe latex DON'T MIX!!! you'll end up with a stringy, gooey a$$ mess if you don't clean one out REALLY WELL!! before trying the other .. personal experience!!

    one other thing... when seating new wheels NEVER add glitter or anything till the beads are seated.. the stuff will seal leaks but you don't want it between the bead of the rim and tire.. just plugging the holes...

    also, no matter if you use Stan's, Caffe Latex, home brew or any of the tire Manufactures brands .. NEVER USE CO2 on a tire with sealant.. you could end up flash freezing the liquid and get all kinds of issues.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Stans consists of liquid latex, propylene glycol and water. All tubeless mtn bike sealants are latex based except Cafelatex, which uses an artificial latex concoction. The reviews in this forum of Cafelatex are not exactly glowing as far as sealing punctures. The main use for latex sealants is to seal beads and casings on non UST tires so they can be run tubeless. If you can't achieve an air tight seal, you don't have a tubeless tire. Sealing punctures is related, but really another subject.

    Many MTBR tubeless riders have concocted their own latex based "homebrews", costing a fraction of any commercial sealant and working as well or better. What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.

    I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano.

    I will argue in advance that whatever they come up with has been done before, and it will be a variation of the S.O.S. Period. It will NOT be better or even different. Anybody who falls for it is a victim of marketing and nothing more.
    Wow, ignorance is bliss they say. FWIW my background is coatings/adhesives chemistry (might be why I'm involved with the manufacturer, lol) and my best friend is at one of the leading manufacturers of latex polymer chemistries in the world. To assume "latex" is all the same (especially comparing to what Stan's is using) is flat out hilarious so thanks for the morning laugh! The new sealant is so different from Stan's that it doesn't even use glycol. And, I can assure you, no one else is making this formula. Marketing didn't seal up my tire better with no weeping! Doubters gonna doubt, riders gonna ride...

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 05-21-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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  29. #29
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    , . Marketing didn't seal up my tire better with no weeping! Doubters will doubt, riders will ride..
    And the flip side is that there is no end to how much money poseurs will spend on over hyped bling they don't need.

    My morning laugh is thinking of you blowing all kinds of cash on the magic sealant developed by your rocket scientist friend at the undisclosed MAJOR company, while my homebrew is so inexpensive I can replace it in 4 wheelsets any time I feel like going to the trouble for pennies. It works fine, doesn't bleed, and does not have a logo on it that itself costs money.

    Have fun wasting yours.
    Last edited by dwt; 05-20-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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  30. #30
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    Why don't we have a nice technical discussion about the metrics that make a sealant "good", instead of how homebrew sealants are cheap. Because we all know that price is not a metric for sealant, VALUE is. Effectiveness divided by what you put in (money, time, etc)

    I'll start.

    1) A sealant is good when it lasts a very long time without either drying out or coagulating, necessitating replacement. A sealant that has turned into one big booger has an effectiveness of zero, thus it's value is zero, even if you got it for free. A free sealant that requires replacement 4 times a year, vs a commercial one twice a year, does not come out on top of value unless your time is worth less than $5 an hour.

    2) A sealant is good if it can somehow manage to seal up sidewall holes by itself during normal riding.

  31. #31
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    Why don't we have a nice technical discussion about the metrics that make a sealant "good", instead of how homebrew sealants are cheap. Because we all know that price is not a metric for sealant, VALUE is. Effectiveness divided by what you put in (money, time, etc)

    I'll start.

    1) A sealant is good when it lasts a very long time without either drying out or coagulating, necessitating replacement. A sealant that has turned into one big booger has an effectiveness of zero, thus it's value is zero, even if you got it for free. A free sealant that requires replacement 4 times a year, vs a commercial one twice a year, does not come out on top of value unless your time is worth less than $5 an hour.

    2) A sealant is good if it can somehow manage to seal up sidewall holes by itself during normal riding.
    Whatever you say.

    I seriously doubt any homebrewer would rate their sealant at zero value or they wouldn't use it, recommend it, or post up their recipes on MTBR so that superior people will ridicule them. I rate mine high in performance and a great value. I change it twice a year on 4 wheelsets.

    IOW, sealant ain't broke, so it don't need fixing. Improvement is always welcome, but if the price tag is too high, you ain't going nowhere, no matter how perfect the product is. If our rocket scientist can achieve no. 2, then maybe he has a shot of siphoning off a few people who have been happy with what they have been using for years. Maybe.

    IME, sidewall damage consist of cuts, not round punctures. I have never seen any latex sealant seal a cut. I have seen it leak like a sieve. In many instances, superglue applied from the outside will be a sufficient trailside cut repair and get you home. In others, you've gotta tube up.

    So if Rocket Scientist and MAJOR player can seal a sidewall cut along with all the other perfection, they could get a foot in the door so long as they don't go too long on the price. And if they are blowing smoke, they will get hammered.

    We will see.


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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    IOW, sealant ain't broke, so it don't need fixing. Improvement is always welcome, but if the price tag is too high, you ain't going nowhere, no matter how perfect the product is.
    Well here we have a difference of opinion. I think sealant is broke if it dries up or coagulates. If Mr Major Player can make a sealant that even lasts twice as long as Stan's or Ghetto Homebrew, meaning that I don't have to change it for another 6 months, then I will pay that stupid extra $1 per serving.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    Well here we have a difference of opinion. I think sealant is broke if it dries up or coagulates. If Mr Major Player can make a sealant that even lasts twice as long as Stan's or Ghetto Homebrew, meaning that I don't have to change it for another 6 months, then I will pay that stupid extra $1 per serving.
    Yes it IS a matter of opinion. I like what have and how it performs, and while I don't have my exact numbers handy, homebrew is way more than $1 per serving savings over Stan's.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    And the flip side is that there is no end to how much money poseurs will spend on over hyped bling they don't need.

    My morning laugh is thinking of you blowing all kinds of cash on the magic sealant developed by your rocket scientist friend at the undisclosed MAJOR company, while my homebrew is so inexpensive I can replace it in 4 wheelsets any time I feel like going to the trouble for pennies. It works fine, doesn't bleed, and does not have a logo on it that itself costs money.

    Have fun wasting yours.
    Uhm, I get it free so... way more than a $1 per serving cheaper than your homebrew, LMAO!

    dwt - you should join the comedy circuit, you really are hilare!

    Have FUN!

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  35. #35
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    I got sick and tired of dealing with goo as well, so I went back to tubes and haven't looked back.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Uhm, I get it free so... way more than a $1 per serving cheaper than your homebrew, LMAO!

    dwt - you should join the comedy circuit, you really are hilare!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Would rather be on the comedy circuit than a self important name dropping poseur on a mt . bike forum.

    Do you seriously get a charge coming on MTBR bragging that you are a rocket scientist with a "MAJOR" player which has developed a magic sealant that never dries up, never coagulates and plugs sidewall cuts, and meanwhile insult lay people who just ride bikes? You need help. Either that or penis enlargement pills.

    One more piece of advice. Don't let the marketing dept of MAJOR player read the crap you post on MTBR,or they'll fire your ass and stick with the other rocket scientist. Bad PR from employees with bad attitudes usually is not rewarded.
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  37. #37
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    can we go back to discussing the technical merits of sealant, plz?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    can we go back to discussing the technical merits of sealant, plz?
    Why bother. If rocket scientist is correct and not blowing smoke, anything now on the market soon will be obsolete.



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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    can we go back to discussing the technical merits of sealant, plz?
    Absolutely! Learned that the new sealant will coagulate behind punctures for, basically, a more permanent repair of punctures vs. natural latex that the popular brand uses (though I admittedly had some thorn holes that were never an issue after sealing with that). Unfortunately, their kick off not slated until August (July for Europe - why do they always get the goods first?) so my lips are sealed... and so are my tires.

    Have FUN!

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Would rather be on the comedy circuit than a self important name dropping poseur on a mt . bike forum.

    Do you seriously get a charge coming on MTBR bragging that you are a rocket scientist with a "MAJOR" player which has developed a magic sealant that never dries up, never coagulates and plugs sidewall cuts, and meanwhile insult lay people who just ride bikes? You need help. Either that or penis enlargement pills.

    One more piece of advice. Don't let the marketing dept of MAJOR player read the crap you post on MTBR,or they'll fire your ass and stick with the other rocket scientist. Bad PR from employees with bad attitudes usually is not rewarded.
    Let's get this straight - I NEVER said I was a rocket scientist nor even a chemist working on the product NOR am I with a major player. Simply put, my background allows me to understand the technical aspects of these sealants better than most. Simply informing forum members that a better product is coming that alleviates the drawbacks of the popular brand. I like to ride bikes and share my knowledge to help other riders as most here will attest. Technology advances... get used to it!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 05-21-2012 at 06:23 PM.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Let's get this straight - I NEVER said I was a rocket scientist nor even a chemist working on the product NOR am I with a major player. Simply put, my background allows me to understand the technical aspects of these sealants better than most. Simply informing forum members that a better product is coming that alleviates the drawbacks of the popular brand. I like to ride bikes and share my knowledge to help other riders as most here will attest. Technology advances... get used to it!
    It's the attitude. If you have expert or inside knowledge and want to help and educate people on MTBR, there are subtler ways of getting it across than insulting people and coming off as an arrogant, smug, insider connected know it all.

    I have no problem with any improving, developing or evolving technology. I do have a problem with hype and over marketing.

    The sealant I use needs no improvement, especially at a high price.

    I really hope the MAJOR player you have lunch with but don't work for is
    Specialized, because this will be yet another product of theirs which I will never buy. Plus, by being associated with such an unpleasant person as you, it gives me another reason to hate them and the thuggish way they throw their weight around. Win win.



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  42. #42
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    I use Slime Pro, 1 yr, love it.

    Most guys I ride with (all) use Stans,they love it. I like Slime Pro. use old tooth brush to rub some around rims edges, put on one bead, pour slime, put on other bead, floor pump only.
    I tried Geax, worked great but dried and boogered in 3 months
    I tried Hutchinson, worked great but disappeared when I went to change tire 5 months later. Use care when inflating w/ Hutchinson, don't clog line while filling tire. Slime Pro so far for me. I saw Chris put a 1cm rip in his tire, Stans flew everywhere, then sealed up 10 minutes later. He kept adding air instead of putting tube in. Very impressive.

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    Never understood the idea of home brew sealants. A big ol bottle of Slime Pro is $12 and will do 6-8 tires: Slime 10112 Slime Slimepro Tubeless Sealant . Tubeless set-up is kind of a messy PITA to begin with, why would anyone want to further complicate it by mixing their own brew? To save a few $? That's cool, but not worth my time, at all.

    I welcome whatever sealant advancements come. Who wouldn't? Less time fuggin with tires and more time riding sounds great to me!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Never understood the idea of home brew sealants. A big ol bottle of Slime Pro is $12 and will do 6-8 tires: Slime 10112 Slime Slimepro Tubeless Sealant . Tubeless set-up is kind of a messy PITA to begin with, why would anyone want to further complicate it by mixing their own brew? To save a few $? That's cool, but not worth my time, at all.

    I welcome whatever sealant advancements come. Who wouldn't? Less time fuggin with tires and more time riding sounds great to me!
    ya.. I have to agree... I get the big bottle of Caffe Latex for $23 and it lasts me like 4 yrs.. and that's not just doing my bike but friends bikes, lawn tractor, wheel burrow, lawn trailer, car trailer and the only reason I bought more this yr was I forgot to close it when doing my neighbor wheel burrow and knocked it over, sealed my garage floor nicely

    I keep looking at the home brew and thinking it's about the same price and I'll end up with gallons of stuff sitting in my garage.. sure per use it's cheaper but it's over kill to store unless you are doing a fleet of bikes...
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post

    So if Rocket Scientist and MAJOR player can seal a sidewall cut along with all the other perfection, they could get a foot in the door so long as they don't go too long on the price. And if they are blowing smoke, they will get hammered.

    We will see.
    Agreed. Don't care unless it can seal a small cut.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Never understood the idea of home brew sealants. A big ol bottle of Slime Pro is $12 and will do 6-8 tires: Slime 10112 Slime Slimepro Tubeless Sealant . Tubeless set-up is kind of a messy PITA to begin with, why would anyone want to further complicate it by mixing their own brew? To save a few $? That's cool, but not worth my time, at all.
    Mixing homebrew is child's play and saves more than a few bucks.. A"big ol bottle" of Slime Pro is all of 16 oz. for $12.00 if you can find it at that price.
    The most basic homwbrew consists of one part Moldbuilder and two parts propylene glcylol antifreeze. You can get creative and add other ingrediants, but these two are all you need. It take all of 5 minutes to mix one pint of mold builder with a quart of antifreeze. 1 pint mold builder @ $13.26+ 1 quart of antifreeze@ $1.00, gives you 48 oz of sealant for $14.00 +/- That would be less than $3.50/16 oz. This brew seals beads as well as any thing now on the market, and stays liquid as long or longer. not so good with punctures without other ingredients.

    i welcome whatever sealant advancements come. Who wouldn't? Less time fuggin with tires and more time riding sounds great to me!
    That would be true if the new magic sealant works as advertised and is not priced outrageously. You talk abourt saving time. I have 4 wheelsets of tubeless tires which are holding air just fine, thank you. What could possibly motivate me to pop them all of the rims and remount with the magic sealant? That would be insane.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  47. #47
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    ^^^^
    What dwt said regarding why bother with homebrew. My reason for trying homebrew at all is that my wife is a crafter and so I spend quite a bit of time walking through the craft store with her. I saw the mold builder on the shelf, I had read about saving money making your own sealant, so I decided to give it a try. I agree about how easy it is to to make, about the same level of difficulty as making juice from concentrate. My batch has lasted me 3 years and I've just procured the ingredients to make my second batch. I have 2 wheelsets that are setup tubeless, but I only ever swap tires on the one set. I swap tires about 5 times a year on it, topping off the sealant each time. I do find that the sealant dries up/disappears at a much slower rate than Stans, but it does still happen. Same with the booger forming. I have no issue with Stans and would use it again with no qualms if it was all that was available. It just so happens that there is a much cheaper alternative available that seems to perform just as well. I have never tried Caffe Latex, but its reviews on this site have kept me from wanting to try it.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Mixing homebrew is child's play and saves more than a few bucks.. A"big ol bottle" of Slime Pro is all of 16 oz. for $12.00 if you can find it at that price.
    The most basic homwbrew consists of one part Moldbuilder and two parts propylene glcylol antifreeze. You can get creative and add other ingrediants, but these two are all you need. It take all of 5 minutes to mix one pint of mold builder with a quart of antifreeze. 1 pint mold builder @ $13.26+ 1 quart of antifreeze@ $1.00, gives you 48 oz of sealant for $14.00 +/- That would be less than $3.50/16 oz. This brew seals beads as well as any thing now on the market, and stays liquid as long or longer. not so good with punctures without other ingredients.



    That would be true if the new magic sealant works as advertised and is not priced outrageously. You talk abourt saving time. I have 4 wheelsets of tubeless tires which are holding air just fine, thank you. What could possibly motivate me to pop them all of the rims and remount with the magic sealant? That would be insane.
    At $2 per tire for Slime Pro, ANY savings to be had via a home brew is minuscule. When you factor in the value of your time, the cost of materials, driving around to obtain the materials, storage containers, clean-up costs, etc, you are saving WAY less than $2 per tire, if you're saving anything at all. Considering a decent bike costs over a grand, trying to save $2 per tire is kinda like weaving your own floor mats for your AMG Benz. If you just enjoy doing it, great, but the savings and cost-effectiveness of it is dubious.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
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  49. #49
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    On a value for money basis, I just bought some OKO ATV sealant from a moto supplier for $15 for 1.25litres (about 42 fluid ounces). I was going to try to mix up some homebrew but the ingredients in Aust like "Slime Pro" are not easy to come by.

    I'll report back after some testing.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    Stans consists of liquid latex, propylene glycol and water. All tubeless mtn bike sealants are latex based except Cafelatex, which uses an artificial latex concoction. The reviews in this forum of Cafelatex are not exactly glowing as far as sealing punctures. The main use for latex sealants is to seal beads and casings on non UST tires so they can be run tubeless. If you can't achieve an air tight seal, you don't have a tubeless tire. Sealing punctures is related, but really another subject.

    Many MTBR tubeless riders have concocted their own latex based "homebrews", costing a fraction of any commercial sealant and working as well or better. What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.

    I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano.

    I will argue in advance that whatever they come up with has been done before, and it will be a variation of the S.O.S. Period. It will NOT be better or even different. Anybody who falls for it is a victim of marketing and nothing more.
    I don't understand how you can dismiss advances in tubeless sealant outright.
    I am immune to your disdain.

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