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  1. #1
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    Exhausted with tubeless goop.

    Going to try my first tubeless set-up. Tired of worthless slime tubes. Lots of homework has left me still wondering which goop to use. Looks like the 24" split tube method will be most reliable for my 650b Neo-moto's and whineman's.

    I would just go with Stans, but I don't think removing big boogers every three to six months sounds very professional (as a product). I looked at the sites. Orange seal, very little info other than ours is the best. Flat-attack, truckerco, Victor heavy duty sealant, Slime pro. Homebrew leaves me with thoughts of a chemestry lab test gone bad (JOKE).

    If Stans didn't dry up it would be a no brainer, but jeepers, I need a aspirin.

    Testimonials, reviews. That would help!

  2. #2
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    I've been using Stan's for a year or so. All the guys I ride with who ride tubeless ride Stan's. We put more fluid in after 6 months or so, but never have to take the tires off to clean them out or anything. We wear out tires before they'd get too bad anyway. Total disclosure: I haven't used any other tubeless brews, but Stan's is easy enough and reliable enough that I haven't been motivated to go searching.
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  3. #3
    dwt
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    As I undertand it, auto tire sealants are primarily designed to plug puntures (various particles suspened in antifreeze solution) while latex based tubeless bicycle tire sealants asre designed to seal beads and to make non UST tire casings airtight. Your NeoMotos are not a UST or a TLR tire - they are designed to be run with tubes and not tuebless. To get them to run tubless you wil need a latex base sealant. Stans has been around the longest and is tried and true. If you check the no tubes website, the MSDS for the sealantt found here lists 3 ingresientrs: liquid latex, propylene glycol, and water. Not that there might not be other ingredients. But it is easy to find inexpnsive liquid latex and propylene glycol used in non toxic antifreezee online. Mix them 1 part latex, 2 parts antifreeze plus water as needed to thin. Trust me this homebrew works fine. FYI I hve 4 neomotos, three 2.1's and one 2.3 all mounted and running tubeless. The easy part is mixing the selant. Getting non tubeless tires to seat can make your head ache. There are various methods, all requiring latex sealant: Stans rim strip, ghetto split tube, gorilla duct tape. You have to plug the spoke holes in the rim with tape such as Stans yellow tape, and support the tire bead so it won't burp or blow off the rim which is normally the job of the tube of tube. I use gorilla tape alone, no rim strip or ghetto tube which has worked fine for months on 2 650b bikes. but not a normally accepted or reccommended method, but the least expensive as well as least labor intensive.


    check you tube and other threads in this forum.. There are a a lot of ways to run tubleless. the questions and the variations are 1) how expensive; 2) how heavy 3) how difficult and 4) how reliable (safe)? The notubes wesbite has a list of non tubeless tires compatible with notubes rimstrips. A lot of folks on the 650b forum run Pacentis as well as Nevagals tubeless wiith sealant and gorilla tape only (me for example).
    Last edited by dwt; 03-26-2012 at 02:46 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbowho View Post

    I would just go with Stans, but I don't think removing big boogers every three to six months sounds very professional (as a product).
    Well, split tube is pretty unprofessional too. But stans works. If you haven't even tried it yet the sealant will be the least of your worries. Getting the tires to stay locked on to the rims with a strip of rubber stuck between the bead and the rim is job one.

  5. #5
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    NB: Slime Pro doesn't dry out or booger up like Stan's

    Also, get a real UST setup, or at least a rim with a bead lock.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    NB: Slime Pro doesn't dry out or booger up like Stan's

    Also, get a real UST setup, or at least a rim with a bead lock.
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
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  7. #7
    Master of the Universe!
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    The homebrew sealant I use is:

    1 part green slime
    1 part Latex Mold Builder (+/-)
    1 part Anti-freeze
    2 parts water (+/-) to "taste"

    and works fine for me in a majority of setups (split tube and gorilla tape)
    Can't a guy get bombed and call his ex at 3 in the morning without it meaning something?!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
    Dried out over the course of what time frame?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by djr8505 View Post
    The homebrew sealant I use is:

    1 part green slime
    1 part Latex Mold Builder (+/-)
    1 part Anti-freeze
    2 parts water (+/-) to "taste"

    and works fine for me in a majority of setups (split tube and gorilla tape)
    Similar for me, with some mods
    1 part Slime for Tubeless Tires (found cheaper at Autoparts Store, with small black chunks in it)
    1 part Mold Builder
    2 parts RV Antifreeze (non-toxic, already diluted, cheap)
    +/- glitter for chunks

    Been using the current formula for a couple years after tweaking it over the course of a year or two. But it does still get the boogers after about 6 months.

  10. #10
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    Real good people. Everyone stayed on topic which gave me some hands on insight. DWT I'm going to go with strips, and stans thank you, your experience with what I am running is a big help. LightJunction makes a point I wanted to hear. 92gli, the vid of a 24" tube seemed easy, but your point makes sense, I will hold off on that for now. No more slime for me either Shiggy! And I'm not ready to go full proper set up until I hurt what I have. I'm old school but couldn't hold out any longer with slime flats. Thanks

    Update!! Cancel.

  11. #11
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    Well for all you noobs at tubeless, it's fairly simple. But I did do some one off stuff that worked flawlessly. First, I opted out of Stan's stems due to them only coming in presta. (I have shrader). So I stole the shrader valves from my offroad used tube stash. With a grinder and wire wheel, I had two perfect threaded shraders with zero rubber on them and ground down perfectly to fit a o-ring. Sano, snug, hope it works long term. No strips either, I used 10-mil plumbers tape, basically a heavy duty electrical tape and very tacky. Stans was good advice, I was a bit surprised how fast they popped into place and sealed right up. I'm a plumber so this stuff was all on hand.

    Suggestion for us noobs! Do a dry run first with soapy squirt bottle to make sure it holds air, then pour in the juice. I found putting the wheels back on a upside down bike a handy tool. PS air compresor.

  12. #12
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    I didn't refresh my former front tire since, maybe, mid-summer. I replaced the tire a few days ago & it still had liquid in it. All the inside was coated with Stan's 'moss' (that's what it reminded me of). I live in TX so last summer was SUPER HOT. It may have been more like late summer since putting in some extra Stan's but it was still awhile & it lasted longer than I thought it would. I run ghetto tubeless & the bead was stuck to the split tube but wasn't difficult to remove.

    Before putting in Stan's, I check for leaks & let it sit for a bit. So far, no leaks of any kind. I've used Geax TNT Dhea, Maxxis EXO Ardent, & Schwalbe Hans Dampf.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    FWIW there will be a new sealant released this summer by a major player that addresses these "issues" and still seals the bead on tightly. Completely different formula than the popular brand. I'm sworn to secrecy so that's all I can say but they did give me some for testing today so I'll know real soon if they have elevated the game. Their lab testing has shown that it seals tires that are difficult to seal with the other brand for initial mounting so that's another big plus. Tire technology is also changing as a result of better sealants but I can't reveal how just yet. Let's just say tubes are going the way of V-brakes soon - a lot sooner than peeps might think.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
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  15. #15
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    There is also Orange Seal Cyclery made in TX. My lbs told me they're started using it & like it more than Stan's b/c it is less watery so doesn't dry out as fast.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    FWIW there will be a new sealant released this summer by a major player that addresses these "issues" and still seals the bead on tightly. Completely different formula than the popular brand. I'm sworn to secrecy so that's all I can say but they did give me some for testing today so I'll know real soon if they have elevated the game. Their lab testing has shown that it seals tires that are difficult to seal with the other brand for initial mounting so that's another big plus. Tire technology is also changing as a result of better sealants but I can't reveal how just yet. Let's just say tubes are going the way of V-brakes soon - a lot sooner than peeps might think.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Awesome news, THANKS!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Slime Pro dried out in four of the six tires I have used it in.
    I don't believe you, this time.
    I am immune to your disdain.

  18. #18
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    I use the home brew sealant recipe listed in this thread. I have still had a nice booger form before, and I still get sealant drying out. Although it is more on an annual basis instead of every couple of months. I think it is not so much drying out as seeping through the sidewalls. I notice that my tires all eventually have very weepy sidewalls when I use the homebrew. Not that I'm losing air pressure, but some part of the sealant is weeping out. I think it is the anti freeze.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
    I use the home brew sealant recipe listed in this thread. I have still had a nice booger form before, and I still get sealant drying out. Although it is more on an annual basis instead of every couple of months. I think it is not so much drying out as seeping through the sidewalls. I notice that my tires all eventually have very weepy sidewalls when I use the homebrew. Not that I'm losing air pressure, but some part of the sealant is weeping out. I think it is the anti freeze.
    Thats what is happening with my homebrew sealant. Green ooze coming out of the tires if the bike sits for too long.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Thats what is happening with my homebrew sealant. Green ooze coming out of the tires if the bike sits for too long.
    Yup, that's what mine all end up looking like. I pretty much always use Specialized 2Bliss tires and when they are new there will be no seepage. But after a while it starts. I think I scuff the sidewalls a lot and that lets the seeping start. As long as I'm not losing air pressure then it doesn't really concern me. But it is a bit filthy looking and it collects trail dust. I smell like an auto mechanic after handling my tires.

  21. #21
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    I'm having lunch with the guys making the new sealant on Monday so I'll find out when it will be publicly released and just what info I can say here. I've been using it for only a month but so far I find that it holds air better than Stan's does when used with standard tires (non-UST) so that has been a big plus. They swear that it doesn't dry out like Stan's either - easily last a year or more. The company behind this... let's just say they're a MAJOR player in the bicycle industry and they have every intention of dominating that market with something better.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  22. #22
    dwt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I'm having lunch with the guys making the new sealant on Monday so I'll find out when it will be publicly released and just what info I can say here. I've been using it for only a month but so far I find that it holds air better than Stan's does when used with standard tires (non-UST) so that has been a big plus. They swear that it doesn't dry out like Stan's either - easily last a year or more. The company behind this... let's just say they're a MAJOR player in the bicycle industry and they have every intention of dominating that market with something better.
    Stans consists of liquid latex, propylene glycol and water. All tubeless mtn bike sealants are latex based except Cafelatex, which uses an artificial latex concoction. The reviews in this forum of Cafelatex are not exactly glowing as far as sealing punctures. The main use for latex sealants is to seal beads and casings on non UST tires so they can be run tubeless. If you can't achieve an air tight seal, you don't have a tubeless tire. Sealing punctures is related, but really another subject.

    Many MTBR tubeless riders have concocted their own latex based "homebrews", costing a fraction of any commercial sealant and working as well or better. What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.

    I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano.

    I will argue in advance that whatever they come up with has been done before, and it will be a variation of the S.O.S. Period. It will NOT be better or even different. Anybody who falls for it is a victim of marketing and nothing more.
    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    What comes with the territory of latex and water is coagulation and evaporation. That means boogers and eventual drying is inevitable and cannot be avoided by your MAJOR player.
    Slime pro does not booger up like Stan's does. The Slime Pro people at Sea Otter also told me that you can use CO2 with their sealant.

    [Latex in solution begins to coagulate when the pH starts to go down, i.e. becomes more acidic. This can either happen because the ammonia that buffers the latex somehow "goes away", or by the addition of CO2, which goes into solution as carbonic acid]

    What this tells me is that S.P. must have some kind of a better buffer solution than Stan's.

    Also, S.P. does become more viscous with time. I recently reconstituted mine with water, and it seemed to still seal up sidewall leaks just fine.

  24. #24
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    The best results I've has are with stans....I've not personally tried everything, but in my riding group we have. The balls of latex you must expect, most of them come from small punctures that you never even knew existed until you removed the tyre. The massive balls I've really only ever come across when I did DIY sealant (as mentioned above). Those ones tend to break back down into their constituent parts....ie the radiator fluid will weep out of the tyre pores.
    Rimmer - "There's an old human saying - if you talk garbage, expect pain"

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    ...I can think of only two bike companies which qualify as "MAJOR" and which would have the chutzpah to take on Stans and try to market a so called super sealant: Specialized and Shimano...
    What about Conti? Has anyone got hold of the new Conti sealant?

    What about the OKO sealants - they've been doing non bike tubeless stuff for decades and now have two different types of bike sealant - an XC type and a "extreme" type. Has anyone tried their stuff?

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