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  1. #1
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    Easton Haven Broken Spokes

    I have a five month old set of Haven's that I just broke a spoke on. Being that I rode my old wheel set (Mavic 317's with King Hubs and DT Revolution spokes) for 8 years without issue I was surprised that I broke a spoke so quickly. Anyone else been breaking spokes on the Haven's?

  2. #2
    but i want to ride now
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    nope. they took a 70mph fall off the back of my car like champs. I will continue to toot my horn about awesome my Havens have been
    sweet sweet trails

  3. #3
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    I have a set of Carbon Havens. I've had them for 12 months and I've broken a single spoke. Given Easton a call and get it replaced under warranty.

  4. #4
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    Good to hear. I will chalk it up to a manufacturing defect.

  5. #5
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    Nick, did your wheel go out of true after the spoke broke? I am interested in the Carbon Havens or EC90's but a bit concerned about the 24 spoke count.

  6. #6
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    I am also running the Carbon Havens. They did go slightly out of true with the broken spoke, but I am still riding them while waiting for the replacement. No issues.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod35 View Post
    Nick, did your wheel go out of true after the spoke broke? I am interested in the Carbon Havens or EC90's but a bit concerned about the 24 spoke count.
    I rode 3 miles on rocky singletrack, roots on my rear Havoc (24h) and it stayed pretty true and rode fine and back to true after replacing the spoke. I've put over 7 months of hard use on these wheels (220~ geared). Of course their Havoc's, but Easton makes pretty good wheels.

  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Good to hear. I will chalk it up to a manufacturing defect.
    And the extra stress load on each spoke. 24 spoke vs 32.
    mtbtires.com
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  9. #9
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    Lost another spoke today. They are failing at the nipples so there is something weird going on. I am going to call Easton on Monday.

  10. #10
    More Torque
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Lost another spoke today. They are failing at the nipples so there is something weird going on. I am going to call Easton on Monday.
    Is it the spoke or the nipple that broke?

    My easton road wheels would break spokes at the nipple.

    -D

  11. #11
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    Not the nipples, it is the spoke breaking off inside the nipple. Not super stoked right now to say the least. Got my new spokes yesterday and they did not send nipples with them. Since the spokes are breaking INSIDE the nipple they cannot be reused. I am wondering if there is some issue with how they are cutting the threads on the spokes because that is where they are breaking.

  12. #12
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    Not the nipples, it is the spoke breaking off inside the nipple. Not super stoked right now to say the least. Got my new spokes yesterday and they did not send nipples with them. Since the spokes are breaking INSIDE the nipple they cannot be reused. I am wondering if there is some issue with how they are cutting the threads on the spokes because that is where they are breaking.
    Or in the way nipples align (or do not align) with the spokes. The nipples do thread into the rim rather than float.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  13. #13
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    4 broken spokes on Easton Havens.

    Broke 4 spokes on non-drive side of my 4 month old Easton Havens after a moderate day at Angel Fire bike park. Interestingly, three of the spokes where on one side, alternating. Had a few flat landings. Bought these for my Transition Covert and I was told that they would be great for down hill. Not to sure now.

  14. #14
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    Call Easton- a buddy was breaking spokes on his 90s they kept sending new spokes and finally nipples. After the 5th break he escalated it and they had him return the wheel and relaxed it. So far no problems.

    Each break was inside the nipple so they have an issue.

  15. #15
    na
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    Interesting...the 4 breaks are in the nipple also. I'll give Easton a call. Should be under warranty.

  16. #16
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    The LBS i work at sells lots of sets of Easton road wheels , and recently, mainly sets sold in 2012, have been breaking spokes like crazy. I think Easton got a bad lot of spokes from Sapim. I was a huge fan of their wheels before the spoke problems.

    Personally I agree with other posters and would try to have Easton warranty replace your wheels.

  17. #17
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    I have a set of Easton Vice wheels that were speced on my 2011 kona coilair. In the first 2 months from new I have destroyed a rear free hub, broken multiple spokes 6+ in the rear, to the point where the wheel had a major collopase. Each time the wheel was trued by bike shop and was re-tensioned after inital bed in. The today I completly folded the front wheel on the down ramp landing off a table top. Not very hard, just had my weight to far forward and the wheel just folded under me and as a result had a pretty big off. The pressed join in the rim had completly seperated by about 2mm.
    For a wheelset speced on a 180mm travel bike they are one of the weakest wheelsets I have owned. I know they are not havens but just my experince with easton wheels.

  18. #18
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    Easton wheels like bad girlfriend.

    Having these wheels is like taking back a bad girlfriend. I love the way they ride. Stiff, responsive and light. Plus they look great. Despite the problems. Nevertheless, spokes break, hubs break. These wheels are definitely NOT all-mountain. I think I'll be switching to something heavier and more reliable. Like a set of Mavic 823s with Hadley hubs.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by camino4 View Post
    Having these wheels is like taking back a bad girlfriend. I love the way they ride. Stiff, responsive and light. Plus they look great. Despite the problems. Nevertheless, spokes break, hubs break. These wheels are definitely NOT all-mountain. I think I'll be switching to something heavier and more reliable. Like a set of Mavic 823s with Hadley hubs.
    +1
    lol, good analogy!
    only one broke spoke, but my rear hub has just developed lateral play

  20. #20
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    Lateral play is due to loosening of the pre-load adjustment. This is easily corrected with a 20mm cone wrench. On the outside of the hub, between the brake rotor and frame there is a black ring with (+) and (-) sign. All you need to do is tighten it enough for the wheel to spin and eliminate the play you feel. This can be done without removing the wheel. I have even adjusted it on the trail with a Leatherman tool.

    Too bad it doesn't work on girlfriends or wives. Although a tight squeeze sometimes helps.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by camino4 View Post
    Lateral play is due to loosening of the pre-load adjustment. This is easily corrected with a 20mm cone wrench. On the outside of the hub, between the brake rotor and frame there is a black ring with (+) and (-) sign. All you need to do is tighten it enough for the wheel to spin and eliminate the play you feel. This can be done without removing the wheel. I have even adjusted it on the trail with a Leatherman tool.

    Too bad it doesn't work on girlfriends or wives. Although a tight squeeze sometimes helps.
    I have been checking and adjusting the pre load monthly. Unfortunately this time, the pre load adjusted has reached it's limit. Any further tightening only binds the bearings.

  22. #22
    aka 'Grover'
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    if the preload adjuster isn't removing play you probably have a damaged axle. you have most likely ridden too long with the preload too lose and the movement has worn the axle down. now the play you are feeling is not lateral, but vertical between the inner race of the bearing and the axle.

    order a new axle and that'll solve the problem. when installing do not grease the preload ring, rather use loctite 243 or similar strength.

    PS. if you have a preload adjuster that tightens clockwise ask easton if you can retro fit the version that tightens anti-clockwise (doesn't work on hubs marked 120, only 121 version).

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by camino4 View Post
    Lateral play is due to loosening of the pre-load adjustment. This is easily corrected with a 20mm cone wrench. On the outside of the hub, between the brake rotor and frame there is a black ring with (+) and (-) sign. All you need to do is tighten it enough for the wheel to spin and eliminate the play you feel. This can be done without removing the wheel. I have even adjusted it on the trail with a Leatherman tool.

    Too bad it doesn't work on girlfriends or wives. Although a tight squeeze sometimes helps.
    This is how I have been adjusting it, with the wheel on the bike with the quick release tightened. And this always seemed to get good results.

    Quote Originally Posted by dimitrin View Post
    I have been checking and adjusting the pre load monthly. Unfortunately this time, the pre load adjusted has reached it's limit. Any further tightening only binds the bearings.
    I now believe that it should be done with the wheel off the bike.
    Today, I pulled the wheel, and removed the cassette and free hub body, and noticed that end of the axle is designed to insert a large allen hex key, 12mm I think.
    Well, with the hex key inserted into and securing the axle, I was able to tighten the adjuster a small amount more and eliminate that bit of lateral play. The wheel still rolls well, but now that I have the axle in my hands as I am checking that the wheel spins freely, I can feel that there is a slight bit of notchy-ness as the wheel rotates, giving me some concern as to the bearings.
    It still rolls well when bolted in the bike, but I can feel it through the axle if I hold it in my hands. Why adjusting it would produce different results in the bike vs. off the bike I do not understand.

    You know, Easton really should post a video that clearly demonstrates the procedure to adjust the preload. I have found threads that say to do it on the bike, and threads that say off the bike, and when I asked Easton I was told that it can be done on the bike.
    I now think it is a "best practice" to do it off the bike, with the axle secured with a large hex key inserted into the end opposite the adjuster.

    I talked to the customer service peeps at Easton a few days ago, they are sending a new axle and adjuster for my 121 series hub. I mentioned the bearings at that time and was informed that a new axle and preload adjuster is the standard fix, that the bearings will be fine. I now think I should have pushed the bearings to them a little firmer.

    yep, like dating a high maintenance hot little crazy titty dancer... you always try to convince yourself it's gonna work out.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    if the preload adjuster isn't removing play you probably have a damaged axle. you have most likely ridden too long with the preload too lose and the movement has worn the axle down. now the play you are feeling is not lateral, but vertical between the inner race of the bearing and the axle.

    order a new axle and that'll solve the problem. when installing do not grease the preload ring, rather use loctite 243 or similar strength.

    PS. if you have a preload adjuster that tightens clockwise ask easton if you can retro fit the version that tightens anti-clockwise (doesn't work on hubs marked 120, only 121 version).
    Already have the counter-clockwise tightening adjuster. That is what it originally came with.
    The only play it has had is lateral, I have yet to discern any up and down play.

  25. #25
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    I had a set of eastons on my rode bike, super stiff, but sent them back after hearing too many reported problems of broken spokes on many different wheelsets. I know that doesn't mean Easton is junk, but i didn't want to be waiting a couple weeks if i had to send them in for warranty work.

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