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  1. #1
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    Dt Swiss 54t ratchet upgrade -my experience

    I have 2 sets of DT Swiss hubs 240s and 350 both with 36T. I recently upgraded to 54T. Its well worth it. I was a bit skeptical it would make or feel a difference.

    Easiest install and money well spent. Noticed climbing was easier and allowed me to stay in a higher gear on my familiar local trails.

    Plus now I can make noise like those guys on CK hubs and I9's lol

  2. #2
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    Yeah, their hubs are easy to upgrade. Mine are working well too.

  3. #3
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    Do you know if I can upgrade my Spline2 rear wheel with an 18T rachet to this 54T rachet? Planned on the 36T upgrade, but may go right to 54T instead.
    Here is the wheel:
    https://www.dtswiss.com/Wheels/MTB-W...pline-TWO-27-5
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  4. #4
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    Just found my answer here:
    DT Swiss Ratchet 54t Upgrade kit, will triple the amount of engagement points of your stock star ratchet 18t hub. After installation engagement of your hub will only take 6.6° of pedal movement vs the 20 deg; of the stock 18t setup. This kit includes everything you need to make the swap in minutes including two star ratchets, two springs and DT Swiss’ specially formulated Molykote grease. Upgrade fits DT Swiss’ 190 ceramic, 240, 350 or 440 hubs.

    DT Swiss 54T Star Ratchet Upgrade Kit > Components > Wheel Parts > Freehub Bodies | Jenson USA
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  5. #5
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    Just upgraded my 350 hub with 54t ratchet. So far like it. We'll see how it holds up to 230lbs geared up on a 29 with a 28/36 low gear.

  6. #6
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    Thinking about doing this. Got two bikes with 350 hubs. Pricey though...

  7. #7
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    Great improvement with a super easy install. If you live anywhere where you ride technical rocks or roots you'll love the upgrade. Low maintenance too, especially if you live in a dry climate.
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  8. #8
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    I've read the 54T is prone to chipping teeth. Not enough to affect performance but might be something to watch for.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    I've read the 54T is prone to chipping teeth. Not enough to affect performance but might be something to watch for.
    My first one lasted less than 6 weeks before I experienced catastrophic slippage. The replacement has lasted a few years.

    Yes, keep it clean and lubed. The teeth are very fine

  10. #10
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    Anyone wanna sell their 36t?

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    Changing to the 54 was done before I rode the Procaliber 9.8, of course 1 month later I threw on some Stan's Valors and now the Splines are collecting dust. The 54T ratchets were a very nice upgrade. BK

  12. #12
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    Has anyone found the 54T upgrade for under $95 anywhere? Thats seems quite high seeing my entire rear Spline2 wheel was under $150. These should be closer to 50 bucks for what it is imho.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Has anyone found the 54T upgrade for under $95 anywhere? Thats seems quite high seeing my entire rear Spline2 wheel was under $150. These should be closer to 50 bucks for what it is imho.
    i don't disagree, but at the same time you are lucky that you even have the option to upgrade IMO. how many other hubs have a simple, easy, affordable upgrade option available?

    it's a lot better than having to build a new wheel.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    it's a lot better than having to build a new wheel.
    Right on! I guess whomever is setting these prices at DT are thinking along the same lines....no wheel build = $$ hub upgrade. It is still a cheaper upgrade option, you are correct.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jselwyn View Post
    Anyone wanna sell their 36t?
    I have a set..pn me.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Has anyone found the 54T upgrade for under $95 anywhere? Thats seems quite high seeing my entire rear Spline2 wheel was under $150. These should be closer to 50 bucks for what it is imho.
    If you knew the dealer cost on them...you'd want to smash your head on the wall even harder. Price is definitely steep for what it is. IMO so is the 36T.
    Last edited by Nubster; 08-12-2016 at 03:32 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Has anyone found the 54T upgrade for under $95 anywhere? Thats seems quite high seeing my entire rear Spline2 wheel was under $150. These should be closer to 50 bucks for what it is imho.
    I bought men with a coupon code from jenson. I paid 75.00 ish plus shipping.

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    Nice. I missed out on the Jenson 20% off deal because I wanted a 54T as well. $110 is ridiculous. Will have to wait for the next sale.

  19. #19
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    as many other people have said in the past, and i agree, the most important thing is to get away from that 18 POE number. the 36 upgrade is a nice compromise of cost/benefit. the jump from 36 to 54 is less dramatic.
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  20. #20
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    What are the long-term reports on the fake 54T upgrades? Thought there was a thread here but it may have been a different forum.
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    There is a fake upgrade option?

    I just upgraded my geared wheel set with the 54t ratchet. Super simple and I actually want to ride my geared bike now unlike when I had my 15* engagement AC hubs on it. 20* engagement was a complete non-starter. Honestly, I'm not sure why DT doesn't fit at least the 190's with the better ratchet. Maybe put the 54t in the 190's, the 36t in the 240's, and the LB 18t ratchet in the 350's.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Has anyone found the 54T upgrade for under $95 anywhere? Thats seems quite high seeing my entire rear Spline2 wheel was under $150. These should be closer to 50 bucks for what it is imho.
    Keep an eye on Art's as they have been having discount codes on Tues and Thursdays only....they only have the 36t but the 25% off worked on them.

    I recently bought the 54t for $80 at Jenson and while still over priced I am enjoying them. I was a fan of my Hadleys and wanted I9s but the 102 poe sounded very annoying to me. Now that I am running the 54t my Hadleys are annoying lol. I like the DTs as they are mellow but still loud enough to alert hikers and other bikers.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by solo-x View Post
    There is a fake upgrade option?

    I just upgraded my geared wheel set with the 54t ratchet. Super simple and I actually want to ride my geared bike now unlike when I had my 15* engagement AC hubs on it. 20* engagement was a complete non-starter. Honestly, I'm not sure why DT doesn't fit at least the 190's with the better ratchet. Maybe put the 54t in the 190's, the 36t in the 240's, and the LB 18t ratchet couple in the 350's.
    It was a couple of pages back with mixed results. And 48T, not 54.

    48T star ratchet $60 on eBay for DT Swiss 240 350
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    I have 2 sets of DT Swiss hubs 240s and 350 both with 36T. I recently upgraded to 54T. Its well worth it. I was a bit skeptical it would make or feel a difference.

    Easiest install and money well spent. Noticed climbing was easier and allowed me to stay in a higher gear on my familiar local trails.

    Plus now I can make noise like those guys on CK hubs and I9's lol
    So is the 54t upgrade noisy? The reason I went with DT Swiss is because they are quiet. Is the 36 tooth upgrade noisy?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndwight View Post
    So is the 54t upgrade noisy? The reason I went with DT Swiss is because they are quiet. Is the 36 tooth upgrade noisy?
    Yes 54 is louder than 36t

  26. #26
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    Any links on how to completely tear down the dt350?

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  27. #27
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    DT Swiss has manual up on their site: https://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Su...chnical-Manual

  28. #28
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    Fortunately, the 350's are easy to service and maintain. Tear down is pretty simple unless you want to remove the ring gear. That can be challenging even with the removal/installation tool.
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  29. #29
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    ANyone upgrade the DT350 bearings to something better?

  30. #30
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    ^^^^ What information are you wanting to know? What's better mean?

    Ceramics perhaps?
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  31. #31
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    Something with less friction to replace the stock bearings once they wear out. The stock ones are good but wanted to know my options if youre gonna replace them anways

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    I thought ceramic bearings sisnt last

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  33. #33
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    How much do you ride? I don't think I've ever really worn out any of my wheel bearings...including the ones on my road wheels which have some 6k miles on them.

    I've got a set of DT 350's and the bearings are pretty smooth. I mean my wheels can spin for a fairly long time when I spin them on the stand.

  34. #34
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    I avg 40-60miles week on the trail in socal's dusty dry sandy conditions. I probably just need to clean the bearings. It doesnt spin for that long but i dont hear any grinding. I was just wondering what ppl have done

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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I avg 40-60miles week on the trail in socal's dusty dry sandy conditions. I probably just need to clean the bearings. It doesnt spin for that long but i dont hear any grinding. I was just wondering what ppl have done
    depending on how much your current bearings are dragging they could be shot, or at least need servicing.

    the stock bearings are good quality bearings and are known to be durable and spin really well. if you're going to replace them because yours are shot i would stick with the stock bearings.

    if you want to "upgrade" you can move up the ABEC scale. I recently replaced the bearings in my hubs (not 350's) with ABEC 5. they're made to higher tolerances so supposed to be higher quality, last longer, spin better. you can go higher up the scale, ABEC 7,9,etc. but the higher you go the less improvement you get and the higher the cost. based on my research you quickly reach a point of diminishing returns. ABEC 5 is a good jump in tolerances and only a marginal cost increase, sweet spot for me. instead of $6-8 for the stock bearings I think i paid $12 ish?

    ceramics are stupid expensive and not worth the cost IMO.
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  36. #36
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    There are several things you can look at. Consider servicing your bearings with a lighter grease. I like Buzzy's Slick Honey as a dependable, lighter lubricant. There can be a trade off here that can mean increased service intervals, but with a lower coefficient of friction. Another consideration, (at least for the rear wheel) is the frequency and type of lubricant being used on the freehub or star ratchet. In the summer, I use Dumonde Tech freehub grease, but in winter the Dumonde freehub oil. The oil is lighter and can offer reduced friction and greater free-spin.

    I have ceramics in my BB, and have been very happy with them, but for me personally, I'm not sure the price can be completely justified in all applications.
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  37. #37
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    I have a new set of wheels with 18T 350's on them. Any reasons NOT to go to 54T vs 36T? The cost difference, while high overall, doesn't seem all that significant. Sort of in for a dime, in for a dollar.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Smokee300; 11-02-2016 at 07:04 AM.

  38. #38
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    Only you can answer this question based on the level of technical riding that you indulge in. If you ride some stuff that necessitates a high POE, then make the plunge.
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  39. #39
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    There was a theory on the fatbike forum that the excessively long axles combined with the high teeth count could cause a situation where while coasting and then laying down the power, hub flex would cause the teeth to engage in one spot on the hub, putting all the force there, and with so little material behind the teeth, it could possibly break. This was thought to be the worst when "re-engaging" the hub during high torque pedaling.

    I have broken the teeth in DT hubs (350) a couple times. They held up better than most hubs for me, but nothing is perfect. Can't say that it had anything to do with the teeth count though (don't remember what I was running back then). I'm not sure if high teeth count would be worse or better, but the flex thing makes a little sense. The CK ring-drive system is a better implementation of the same basic idea that DT uses, although it's a bit heavier.
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    Thx for the advice on the bearings. I didnt know you can use slick honey on the ratchets. I thought maybe it might be too thin. I used the red lube that came with the 54T ratchet upgrade which was quite a bit thicker.

    I personally like high poe. There is a rocky section where i need to ratchet a little to get through and it helps when you want to restart on an uphill. For me its a nice to have but certainly not a deal breaker. Many ppl complain about the drag of high poe hubs and the noise. I dont mind rhe noise but the drag while coasting would be something you give up for higher poe.

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    I've never researched this, but I bet the additional "drag" of 54 over 36 or even 18 is very minimal in real life. If your wheel spins 45 seconds with 18 teeth and only 35 with the 54, I would think that with the momentum of bike and rider on the ground, there would be no real difference in coasting. Think about how little energy it takes to go from spinning the wheel for 10 seconds as opposed to 20 seconds.

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    I went from the 18t to the 54t and in the bike stand noticed a bit more drag but not on the trail......but I have been riding with brake rub (long story still going) without notice.
    I would be interested to see a study if higher POE drag actually makes any difference on the trail as I would think the weight of the rider would negate the issue.

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    I agree that it probably wouldnt make that much of a difference. Others have talked about i9 drag and how they felt they needed to pedal more on flowy terrain. Just data pts, doesnt mean its real

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  44. #44
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    I have several sets of wheels, but my two sets most used are I-9's and my DT Swiss 350 hubbed wheels. I agree that the I-9's prolly have slightly higher drag, but in the grand scheme of things, I can assure you I am unable to perceive the difference while ridding. Spinning the wheels while the bike is on the stand, yes, the 350's spinner better. I attribute all of this to the freehubs. 120 POE on the I-9's vs. 36 POE on my 350's. My I-9's are my hubs of choice for the unforgiving technical stuff.
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  45. #45
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    I have the 36t on a couple bikes...and so far...I don't think I've ever thought to myself and said that I wish I had more engagement. Lol...I can't even remember the last time I ratcheted my pedaling.

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    So I installed the 54T star ratchet. Got them got 77 shipped on eBay's 20% off promo. Took about 15 mins including cleaning the ratchet ring on the hub and XD driver. Well...it does make more noise.

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    Are the ratchets made of steel or aluminium ?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahavishnuuu View Post
    Are the ratchets made of steel or aluminium ?
    steel

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    If anyone needs one i think i have an extra one for sale

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    Are the springs and grease in the kit required? I have thin grease (triflow) and whatever's stock in my nearly new 350 right now.

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    Its the same spring and grease. The kit comes with a tub of grease, springs, and two halves of the ratchet. Its a super easy upgrade, i just need to do it someday on the new wheels. Everytime after a ride i dont feel like doing anything but take a nap. But 54t upgrades is noticeable on my previous wheels. Going to something like an i9 didnt feel that different. Engagement really does help on techy climbs and ratcheting over rock sections

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  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by pakora View Post
    Are the springs and grease in the kit required? I have thin grease (triflow) and whatever's stock in my nearly new 350 right now.
    The springs are the same but i think the triflow wouldnt be a good replacment for the dt swiss grease.

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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by pakora View Post
    Are the springs and grease in the kit required? I have thin grease (triflow) and whatever's stock in my nearly new 350 right now.
    No, the springs are not necessary if your old ones are ok. Freehub greases are pretty thin. I use Dumonde Tech freehub grease and freehub oil.

    The Triflow grease that I have is not what I would use. I don't know if Triflow makes multiple greases for different applications, but what I have is a Water-proof, multipurpose NLGI Grade: 2 grease. That's way too thick and tacky for a freehub. Fine for bearings and such, but not freehubs.
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    If anyone needs one i think i have an extra one for sale

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    What do you have for sale?? 36 or 54.........

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    54 but you can have my 36 also for free

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    54 but you can have my 36 also for free

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    Send me a PM with the details........
    TOM

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    Quote Originally Posted by tom erb View Post
    Send me a PM with the details........
    TOM
    Ill by the 36s off of you tom

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    Has anyone for sale a 36t 54t at a more reasonable price, even used would be ok.

  59. #59
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    I have 36t..pm me

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyamg View Post
    Has anyone for sale a 36t 54t at a more reasonable price, even used would be ok.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DT-1...a-7ba0491c1895
    you can find the DT 18T (23$), 36T(45$), 54T(68$) rachets there above. Anyway, prices are a little pricey, I think.
    Did someone find 54T is more noisy when rolling?

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    Thank you @Carbonfan, I have allready bought a 36t version.
    The 54t has a more bee nest like sound. Pretty noisy it seems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adyamg View Post
    Thank you @Carbonfan, I have allready bought a 36t version.
    The 54t has a more bee nest like sound. Pretty noisy it seems.
    Oh, yes, a little bit too noisy to me, too. But it can still be called "acceptable" if we ever hear the sound of Hope Pro hubs around.

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    Well for me it has its advantages, it makes me keep pedaling so that I wont scare people around when cruising in town.
    Another frien told me that I should change those wheels as they are like a chainsaw!

    Still, my new wheels 18 ratchet are pretty well greased up and are quite silent.

  64. #64
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    Anytime you increase the POE, they are going to be louder. That's a pretty commonly accepted by-product of the higher engagement.
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    So I had the Chinese 46T. First one blew up after 12 miles. Got a replacement but never used it until recently. Blew the second one up after 30 miles.

    Kind of want the 54T as I'm running 36T right now but I'm a bit worried about the 54T blowing up too. Any thoughts?

  66. #66
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    I've run my 54t on 2 different bikes. Not sure the mileage but I would guess over 200 miles at the least and no issue yet. I would say they are nice but not worth the cost. If I already had the 36t then I wouldn't get the 54t. Only reason I got the 54t was I wanted to upgrade the stock 24t and 54t was about the same price.

  67. #67
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    I agree, but think stock ratchets are 18t....can't speak for Chinese knock-offs, though.

    If you were stock, I'd say spend the extra for the 54t (6.7 deg). You're price-per-degree is pretty steep when you are currently at 32t.

  68. #68
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    Just got a new ride that came with wheels built up with DT350s. I had the LBS drop in the 54t after a few rides on the too-quiet 18t. I had 36t in a previous bike that I thought was good...the 54 is great!
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  69. #69
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    I upgraded my 54t to 36t by swapping star ratchets with my much smaller riding buddy. It's a bit quieter, otherwise the same, and possibly more durable. No regrets.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottzg View Post
    I upgraded my 54t to 36t by swapping star ratchets with my much smaller riding buddy. It's a bit quieter, otherwise the same, and possibly more durable. No regrets.
    You mean downgraded?

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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman View Post
    I agree, but think stock ratchets are 18t....can't speak for Chinese knock-offs, though.

    If you were stock, I'd say spend the extra for the 54t (6.7 deg). You're price-per-degree is pretty steep when you are currently at 32t.
    I am stupid azz....correct meSSican for wrong tooth statement and end my suggestion with a wrong tooth statement....wtf. "36t" not "32t"....doh!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    If you knew the dealer cost on them...you'd want to smash your head on the wall even harder. Price is definitely steep for what it is. IMO so is the 36T.
    Q has the 54t upgrade kit for 75$, it's not exactly free.

    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    You mean downgraded?

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  73. #73
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    I see going from a 54t to a 36t as less capable, not necessarily worse.. But that could also be qualified by ones need and application.
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  74. #74
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    After a few months with the 54T...I can't notice a difference in riding. I've got a bike with a 36 and another with a 54. Biggest difference is the amount of noise it makes when coasting.

    Maybe if you're coming from a 18T...but from a 36...at least for me...its pretty marginal.

    I sold the 36T it replaced...so it kinda offset the cost.

  75. #75
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    I see one's need for a higher POE can be contingent on the technical level of the trail that you wish participate.
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  76. #76
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    I think for the price they charge for a 240 rear hub you should get any tooth count you want or need...........

  77. #77
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    I just got the 54T ratchets last week. 3 rides and almost 60 miles on them. For me, it was an instant and very noticeable difference coming from the 36T ones. The 36T were a huge improvement over the 18, but with the 54T I don't feel any kind of takeup/lag/shift/dead spot/whatever you want to call it, just instant power transfer. I feel more connected to the bike, and like it a lot better.
    Terrain and cadence(or lack thereof) may be what makes it more noticeable. No such thing as maintaining a cadence here, as it's all ups and downs with no straight lines, and the trails are littered with roots and rocks. Only regret is not buying the 54T ratchets to begin with.
    The 36T got louder with some use, and no doubt these will, too, but I used a good bit of lube when installing them, and so far they've been very quiet.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I see going from a 54t to a 36t as less capable, not necessarily worse.. But that could also be qualified by ones need and application.
    Depends entirely on riding style. Personally if i'm ratcheting cranks i've already screwed up (and probably rolling backwards) and extra POE isn't gonna make a difference. I like to push a tall gear through tech so the engagement is almost always fast enough.

    Extra quiet and larger teeth is a huge advantage, POE is meaningless to me above ~24t. 36t is the goldilocks star ratchet.



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  79. #79
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    I ride lots of steep switchbacks in the loose and rocky SoCal desert. The 54 POE does make a difference. The DT system is reliable and easy to service, as is always mentioned. I've got DT 350 straight pull hubs with Sapim Race spokes on the drive side, Sapim Laser on the non-drive, and Nox Teocalli rim. The only drawback is the noise and drag. My build is the noisiest that I have heard. The Chris King hubs sound silent compared to mine, and yes, I use plenty of DT grease.

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    Teocalli rim looks like a winner. Too bad they dont come in wider internal widths, 32mm.
    The ext nips is interesting. Guess i dont like inverted nips.

    Ive found the higher poe helps in 5% of my riding. Not a must have but nice to have if you want to clean some techy climbs and slow rock crawls where you can't give a full pedal stroke.

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  81. #81
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    I've installed the 54 from AliExpress

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DT-1...822242076.html

    Satisfied. I had the 36 tooth for several years now, no issues. I've come from Chris King hubs and other high engagement. Good stuff.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    I've installed the 54 from AliExpress

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DT-1...822242076.html

    Satisfied. I had the 36 tooth for several years now, no issues. I've come from Chris King hubs and other high engagement. Good stuff.
    Sure, no doubt new experience. Worth upgrading.

  83. #83
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    I haven't done the upgrade but am certainly contemplating it. This seems to be a pretty solid deal, given the current market.

    https://www.modernbike.com/dt-swiss-...ngs-and-grease

  84. #84
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    That’s pretty rich for Chinese MFG part, $70USD isn’t far off the $90 I paid to Jenson a few years ago. DT is VERY good for any warranty or wear issues too....
    Todd

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    I've installed the 54 from AliExpress

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DT-1...822242076.html

    Satisfied. I had the 36 tooth for several years now, no issues. I've come from Chris King hubs and other high engagement. Good stuff.
    so, how long do you uses this 54 tooth upgrade?
    I have ordered OEM from ebay for 50 USD, but still have doubts

  86. #86
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    What are your doubts?
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  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What are your doubts?
    I'm not sure in quality of this ratchet.
    There were problems with quality of original DT 36t ratchet some years ago.

    And here we have 54t from China...

    Anyway, will see...

  88. #88
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    You have it now. Cast your doubts and go ride it. Enjoy.
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  89. #89
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    So, received today my parcel from China.
    Looks good, but will see ))

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  90. #90
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    If you have doubts, carry the 36 or 18 with you. The 350 freehub pops off by hand, so it'd be an easy trailside repair if the new one blows up. The spare ratchets are so small and light that I doubt anyone would notice the weight or lost space. Small price for peace of mind.
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  91. #91
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    Carrying an extra ratchet might be a little over the top, but given the ease of pulling the freehub, you want to keep an eye on the ongoing condition of the new one.
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  92. #92
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    I agree in general--I don't carry an extra. I meant for Arman specifically, since he bought one from Alibaba and seemed worried about it (thinking it may be a knock off instead of a genuine part?). In that case, I'd rather take an extra than have a nagging doubt that keeps me from fully enjoying the ride.
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  93. #93
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    No doubt these are knock-offs.

    Perhaps it has happened, but I have never heard of a failed Star Ratchet completely failing with the result being a ride stopper. They begin with a chipped tooth, followed by more teeth chipping or breaking. I've never observed or even heard of one completely failing to an un-ridable condition.
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  94. #94
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    I recall some Chinese star-ratchets a while back in a 42T or 48T variation. They definitely failed at a much higher frequency than the DT Swiss made counterparts.

    If it were me, I would absolutely carry the original ones that came out of the hub in my pack. they are so small - why not. A broken ratchet 20km away from the trail head...no thanks!

    I have the original 54T and love it. I would definitely buy again.
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  95. #95
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    I pulled the trigger on 54t ratchets from modern bike. They were $89 and then a 5% black friday/cyber monday discount. I'm pretty damn happy with the new set up so far. Coming from 18t I notice the added engagement on techyish climbs and when I start a sprint(or at least what I call a sprint...) Very easy install as well.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    No doubt these are knock-offs.

    Perhaps it has happened, but I have never heard of a failed Star Ratchet completely failing with the result being a ride stopper. They begin with a chipped tooth, followed by more teeth chipping or breaking. I've never observed or even heard of one completely failing to an un-ridable condition.
    I have.

    The 50 grams in my pack as spares is enough insurance for me, regardless if I ever use them or not. Almost good Karma keeping a set. YMMV
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  97. #97
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    I can understand...

    For years I carried a spare derailleur hanger and never needed it. Once, I even thought of removing it from my minimalist ride tool bag.

    One day about nine miles from my vehicle, a stick found its way into the spokes and promptly removed my rear derailleur by snapping the hanger.

    Geezzz...a walk was spared.
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  98. #98
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    So, installed new ratchet.
    Original is heavier and I really don't understand reason why Chinese manufacturer made the rings hollow. Actually 8 g are nothing...

    I have used Chris King ratchet grease, for the moment sound is not loud.

  99. #99
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    The Chris King grease is a bearing grease and too thick.

    Do you mean King Ring lube or grease?
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  100. #100
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    My OE ratchets are hollow on 240s
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