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  1. #1
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    DT Swiss 350 vs SRAM 900 Hubs

    I am looking to build a 27.5+ wheelset with either ARC 35's or DT Swiss XM 521 rims and I am on the fence between the DT Swiss 350's and SRAM 900 Hubsets. Logically the DT Swiss is considered to be super reliable and offers for convertible axle configurations, however the upgraded 36 or 54 star ratchet is expensive and brings the overall cost up by @ $100. It looks like the SRAM 900 is just as convertible and is built with Double Time engagement with no upcharge. Also it looks like the SRAM 900 can be purchased for less than the similarly configured 350?

    Where I am going wrong?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    I am looking to build a 27.5+ wheelset with either ARC 35's or DT Swiss XM 521 rims and I am on the fence between the DT Swiss 350's and SRAM 900 Hubsets. Logically the DT Swiss is considered to be super reliable and offers for convertible axle configurations, however the upgraded 36 or 54 star ratchet is expensive and brings the overall cost up by @ $100. It looks like the SRAM 900 is just as convertible and is built with Double Time engagement with no upcharge. Also it looks like the SRAM 900 can be purchased for less than the similarly configured 350?

    Where I am going wrong?
    Sram 900 is a four pawl mechanism hub...different design

  3. #3
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    You should have an extra set of ratchets in your pack anyway, order up the 54's and don't look back.
    Todd

  4. #4
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    Dt350
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    Agreed, so is a Hadley Hub? I have two sets of Hadley's one set is 11 years old and my LBS recently opened it up and confirmed that it was in excellent shape and needed nothing except a little lube as a result of the superior bearing seal design that Hadley utilizes. I believe that most on the forum would concur that Hadley is on par or superior to a 350 hub?

  6. #6
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    Do you mean order a couple extra rachets as back-up for future failure? I am confused by your statement


    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    You should have an extra set of ratchets in your pack anyway, order up the 54's and don't look back.

  7. #7
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    Yup. A pair and a spare. We call it redundancy. Chain master link, tube, spare bolts, 2 lights, pump, 1 set of spare ratchets. (Run the 54's, pull the stock 16's)

    Just in case...
    Todd

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    Agreed, so is a Hadley Hub? I have two sets of Hadley's one set is 11 years old and my LBS recently opened it up and confirmed that it was in excellent shape and needed nothing except a little lube as a result of the superior bearing seal design that Hadley utilizes. I believe that most on the forum would concur that Hadley is on par or superior to a 350 hub?
    As a owner of both Hadley is the superior hub

  9. #9
    mjw
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    Yup. A pair and a spare. We call it redundancy. Chain master link, tube, spare bolts, 2 lights, pump, 1 set of spare ratchets. (Run the 54's, pull the stock 16's)

    Just in case...
    18's, if you want to be correct. Or 36. Or even 48. But no 16.
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  10. #10
    mjw
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    Agreed, so is a Hadley Hub? I have two sets of Hadley's one set is 11 years old and my LBS recently opened it up and confirmed that it was in excellent shape and needed nothing except a little lube as a result of the superior bearing seal design that Hadley utilizes. I believe that most on the forum would concur that Hadley is on par or superior to a 350 hub?
    Hadley make great stuff, but are not immune to bearing issues that lead to catastrophic hub failure, including but not limited too destroying the freehub assembly. Rare as it is. Or pawl failure.

    Dt's are nice because of their simplicity. It's a hub no one really has to "taken to the shop" so to speak. You pull the freehub off by hand and the guts, two ratchets and two springs, are easily accessible to maintain. They are simple and more durable/less finiky and prone to failure than pawl and spring assembly in my experience. 18 and 36 ratchets are super reliable. I hear stories of people having issue with 54 ratchets but always second/third hand and i've never seen any proof. 48 (Asian knock off) ratchets...well....that's a gamble.

    I can service a hope or an i9 with my eyes closed. Don't know Hadley internals as well. But for me I'd go dt swiss before any pawl system.
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  11. #11
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    DT 350
    Serviceable on the trail if need be.
    230lbs geared running 54 rings on 29er hardtail with 28/40 gearing no issues.

  12. #12
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    Not much to add other than I've been running SRAM 900 boost hubs for a year on a carbon wheelset I built. They've been perfect so far. I chose them based on price, weight, and POEs. I wouldn't consider myself a "power user", so YMMV.
    Do the math.

  13. #13
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    I agree, If i didn't need the ease and lower cost of swapping out the axles between 135 and 142, I would purchase another Hadley rear.

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeZee View Post
    As a owner of both Hadley is the superior hub

  14. #14
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    I have not experienced your statement relating to the Hadley's. I have owned King's standard and ISO, White Industry and Hadley's. The Hadley's have required the least amount of service, spin like crazy and offer solid engagement.

    I agree with you description of the DT simplicity and that is why I will probably go with a set. I need a wheelset that I can quickly and easily convert from 135 to 142. I just wish that they would stock their rear hub with the 36 tooth ratchet, which is probably what I will upgrade to. The 18 tooth ratchet is weak sauce in this day and age in mountain cyclery.


    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Hadley make great stuff, but are not immune to bearing issues that lead to catastrophic hub failure, including but not limited too destroying the freehub assembly. Rare as it is. Or pawl failure.

    Dt's are nice because of their simplicity. It's a hub no one really has to "taken to the shop" so to speak. You pull the freehub off by hand and the guts, two ratchets and two springs, are easily accessible to maintain. They are simple and more durable/less finiky and prone to failure than pawl and spring assembly in my experience. 18 and 36 ratchets are super reliable. I hear stories of people having issue with 54 ratchets but always second/third hand and i've never seen any proof. 48 (Asian knock off) ratchets...well....that's a gamble.

    I can service a hope or an i9 with my eyes closed. Don't know Hadley internals as well. But for me I'd go dt swiss before any pawl system.

  15. #15
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    Concur with master link, tubes, spare bolts, lights and pumps...a spare ratchet is an expensive safety net...do they really fail that often?

    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    Yup. A pair and a spare. We call it redundancy. Chain master link, tube, spare bolts, 2 lights, pump, 1 set of spare ratchets. (Run the 54's, pull the stock 16's)

    Just in case...

  16. #16
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    Thanks for your experience and good to know, I am 200# with gear, not a gazelle either.


    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    DT 350
    Serviceable on the trail if need be.
    230lbs geared running 54 rings on 29er hardtail with 28/40 gearing no issues.

  17. #17
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    Many thanks for chiming in Lone Ranger. I agree for price, weight and engagement they are compelling. Any other SRAM 900 hub riders?




    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Not much to add other than I've been running SRAM 900 boost hubs for a year on a carbon wheelset I built. They've been perfect so far. I chose them based on price, weight, and POEs. I wouldn't consider myself a "power user", so YMMV.

  18. #18
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    If you need to service or replace DT bearings factor in the price to purchase the bearing lock ring tool.

  19. #19
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    DT 350 all the way, 36T, never heard of such catastrophic failure to have need for spare ratchet. If you go for 54T, it has smaller tooths, in theory more likely to fail. Anyway, i think you will be just fine with 36T, because if you would have urgent need for more than 36T you would already know that and would not even ask this question

  20. #20
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    Went with DT350 after blowing up my Sun Ringle hub three times. Two broken axles two free hubs one ring ratchet. Like I said I weigh around 230# have a high torque gear ratio and the 54T has been problem free. I do keep my 18T in my pack just in case. A swap that requires no tools and can be done trailside. Also didn't really notice much of an engagement difference from 18T to 54T.

  21. #21
    mjw
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    I have not experienced your statement relating to the Hadley's. I have owned King's standard and ISO, White Industry and Hadley's. The Hadley's have required the least amount of service, spin like crazy and offer solid engagement.

    I agree with you description of the DT simplicity and that is why I will probably go with a set. I need a wheelset that I can quickly and easily convert from 135 to 142. I just wish that they would stock their rear hub with the 36 tooth ratchet, which is probably what I will upgrade to. The 18 tooth ratchet is weak sauce in this day and age in mountain cyclery.
    100% agree. 36T should come as a stock option.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    Concur with master link, tubes, spare bolts, lights and pumps...a spare ratchet is an expensive safety net...do they really fail that often?
    The spare ratchet isn't an expense, just leftover parts that are light enough that they're better in your bag than in a drawer. Better, they're already cleaned and greased- if the mosquitoes are bad. I've heard very few stories of failure that were not user induced.

  23. #23
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    I'm having this same question- looking for Sram 900 failures....hearing none....

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    100% agree. 36T should come as a stock option.
    As a matter of fact you can find them with the 36t ratchet as stock.
    My Sun hub has the pawns and the ring nut worn out and I decided to replace the hub with a DT 350 and it come with 36t ratchet.
    But it's true that they are not easy to find.

    I was also curious about Sram hubs because of the price, then I saw that the double time is 2 pairs of offset pawns, and I moved along. I don't trust anything with less than 3 pawns engaged at time, preferably more.

  25. #25
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    Went with SRAM 900. We'll see how they work out. But I've never had problems with mtb hubs, currently running 240, XT, and XTR.

  26. #26
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    Ordered 900's for the 27.5+ build, 350's for the Fat.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuzziBen View Post
    Ordered 900's for the 27.5+ build, 350's for the Fat.
    Keep us informed please?

  28. #28
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    Been running Sram 900's(32 hole) laced to Arch mk3's for 6 months. No issues what so ever. I am 5'6" and weight 155 lbs kitted up, ride mostly techy xc.. Price was my main reason for purchase.

  29. #29
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    running a sram 900 rear hub (boost style) on my Fuse Comp6 fattie. It replaced the junky stout hub. Not a single issue and it was a direct swap for the stout hub in this application.Put it in late last season and going strong.

  30. #30
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    Well, the stupid part was I didn't realize that the Fuse cassette was a 10-spd.
    I don't know, guess i never counted.
    Borrowed the Fat Bike cassette and played with it a little- I like the engagement, smooth rolling etc. Ordered XD (XG-1180) cassette and GX 11-speed shifter and derailleur.
    Bike goes up to Copper Harbor MI next week for fun and Enduro.
    I understand the new '17 Fuse Expert has cartridge bearings and XD 11-speed.

  31. #31
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    DT Swiss 350 vs SRAM 900 Hubs

    I have Flow MK3 built up on 350s and have had no issues with the. Love em. I recently (just in the process of putting tubeless tires on them!) built up some Arc 24 on the SRAM 900 hubs. Built them with the QR end caps in and ran into trouble putting the front wheel on my feedback single arm stand after switching to the 15 mm end caps. Since the SRAM can go to 20 mm without changing axle, there is not enough meat on the 15 mm end caps for the feedback 15 mm collet to expand into. So, I would have to put the QR caps back on the put it back on the stand.

    Keep in mind this is a failing of my truing stand. Pretty sure this pushes me over the edge to get the Abbey Tools adapter that will fix this issue.

    Will give feedback on the hubs once I get some time on them. Freewheel sounds like angry bees.

    -Nate


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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by henrov View Post
    Keep us informed please?
    After one good summer, I'm a fan of the 900's. No issues at all, free rolling, quick engagement. The angled flange makes the build cleaner, might help spoke life (I use DB's anyway). Glad for cartridge bearings, too. Perhaps I'll take them apart and see how they look and feel inside.

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    I have been using the SRAM 900 wheels on my fully ridgid Kona Explosif. The bike is like a gazelle compared to the full squish! Loving the engagement of the rear hub and think I need to upgrade the ratchet in the 350s. Only question remaining is if the double-time technology can stand up to my 210 lbs over the long run.

    -Nate

  34. #34
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    Just curious how the SRAM 900s are holding up for everyone?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Just curious how the SRAM 900s are holding up for everyone?
    I'm only at 600 miles on mine so far, but really like it. I am very abusive though, so we'll find out.

  36. #36
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    The 900 hubs do have quicker engagement out of the box, but they are not sealed as well as the DT hubs and the end caps do not fit as tightly as the DT end caps. The weight of the cassette along can pull the freehub and drive side end cap right off if you knock it over onto it's side or even tip the wheel to the cassette side when it's not mounted in the frame.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by changingleaf View Post
    The 900 hubs do have quicker engagement out of the box, but they are not sealed as well as the DT hubs and the end caps do not fit as tightly as the DT end caps. The weight of the cassette along can pull the freehub and drive side end cap right off if you knock it over onto it's side or even tip the wheel to the cassette side when it's not mounted in the frame.
    That is what happened to me, on a new set of wheels. I have re-greased everything and put back together, but the seal near the cassette is not as good as on 350s. Also I find 900 rear hub much noisier than 350.

    Does anybody know how to service front hub on 900? I have tried to remove the caps, but they are not straight (slightly concave) so I can not hold them firmly with my tools.

    Thanks!

  38. #38
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    Just whack the caps from inside. Insert some plastic rod, or something similar that won't hurt the aluminum, from the other side and give it a tap, the caps should pop out.

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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    Do you mean order a couple extra rachets as back-up for future failure? I am confused by your statement
    Order the 54's as an upgrade and keep the stock ones as your spare.

    I have DT350's or DT240's on all of my bikes and they've been great. No reason to own another hub.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    Just whack the caps from inside. Insert some plastic rod, or something similar that won't hurt the aluminum, from the other side and give it a tap, the caps should pop out.
    Great advice! Works perfectly.
    Also, there was no grease on new hub, so I recommend to service them before first use.

  41. #41
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    Iíve had a set of DT 350ís for around 2.5 years on my Fat Bike and theyíve worked flawlessly. Nice and smooth. I blew out the previous Novatec rear hub within the first month or so. Zero issues with the DTís.

    I just picked up a new carbon HT AM bike with a set of SRAM 900ís not long ago. So far they seem great, but I guess time will tell. I read all I could about them and didnít really find anything glaringly bad.

    I also have had a set of I9ís for 3 years on my main FS bike. I have right around 4,500 miles on them and have never had to have them serviced, so that says a lot. That being said I donít really notice a huge difference in ride quality or noise. For the money I think the SRAM 900ís seem like a good buy.

    I donít know that you can really go wrong with any of these. Iíve heard good things on all 3 and my experience with all 3 has been good so far. But thatís just my opinion.

  42. #42
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    Searching for SRAM 900 feedback, seems this thread has the most. Just to keep it in one place, I'll bring this back up.

    I'm considering the SRAM 900 front and rear hubs for a new wheelset build. I was set on the DTS 350 (and upgrading to 36 or 54t). Then saw the Hope 4 for similar price and weight with much better engagement out of the box. I then noticed the SRAM 900 as an option for a good savings in cost (and even less wt than the others), while still offering high poe @ 6.9*.

    I'd trust the Hope or DTS for reliability/longevity, and I know the DTS is easy to maintain (owned an old DTS 340).

    Is the SRAM offering trustworthy? Does it offer similar stiffness/strength/reliability?

    Mostly undecided on the rear hub, I think I'll be putting the SRAM 900 on the front for sure.

    So, is the Hope 4 rear hub worth +$17.16 and .05lbs (23g) extra? (After looking at it that way, I think I know what I'll do..) But, keep the SRAM 900 feedback coming.
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  43. #43
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    I actually just received my SRAM 900s in the mail today. I ordered them with the recent ebay 15% off coupons for $173 for the pair. Thats a hard price to match. Holding them in my hand, the fit and finish is every bit as nice as a hope IMO, and a similar mechanism, but larger pawls than the hope going by memory. They certainly feel like theyre next level compared to my BHS Bitex hubs, of which I have three pair. Truth be told, I have not held an unlaced 350 in my hands, but the clyde reliability issues of the 54T ratchet, not to mention the cost, led me to write those hubs off a while ago.

    Obviously, fit and finish isn't worth anything if the hub falls apart in short order. But I do like the design, especially how the cassette rides on the exposed freehub bearing, and the width of the pawls is reassuring. Hopefully the two large pawl engagement is a bit more stout than three smaller pawls. I dont think Ive read many horror stories about the 900s coming apart on anyone. While I never had my BHS hubs fail on me (aside from broken pawl springs which were not a show stopper), they certainly have shown signs of deformation and wear. Once the 900s are installed, Ill be beating them senseless in no time.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I actually just received my SRAM 900s in the mail today. I ordered them with the recent ebay 15% off coupons for $173 for the pair. Thats a hard price to match. Holding them in my hand, the fit and finish is every bit as nice as a hope IMO, and a similar mechanism, but larger pawls than the hope going by memory. They certainly feel like theyre next level compared to my BHS Bitex hubs, of which I have three pair. Truth be told, I have not held an unlaced 350 in my hands, but the clyde reliability issues of the 54T ratchet, not to mention the cost, led me to write those hubs off a while ago.

    Obviously, fit and finish isn't worth anything if the hub falls apart in short order. But I do like the design, especially how the cassette rides on the exposed freehub bearing, and the width of the pawls is reassuring. Hopefully the two large pawl engagement is a bit more stout than three smaller pawls. I dont think Ive read many horror stories about the 900s coming apart on anyone. While I never had my BHS hubs fail on me (aside from broken pawl springs which were not a show stopper), they certainly have shown signs of deformation and wear. Once the 900s are installed, Ill be beating them senseless in no time.
    That is the great price for Sram 900s, that would be a cost of a 350s rear hub only.

    Sram 900 is a four pawl design, not two. I do not see a problem with the design, they are easy to service (rear one falls apart very easy), so it can be serviced in couple of minutes.

    I have 350s on two of my bikes, and they are really reliable, but I use them with factory ratchet, so the engadgement is relatively slow, Sram 900 is much better in that regard.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by markopic View Post
    (...)

    Sram 900 is a four pawl design, not two. I do not see a problem with the design, they are easy to service (rear one falls apart very easy), so it can be serviced in couple of minutes.
    (...)
    Only two pawl are engaged at a time, the ratchet only has 26t, but because the pawls have offset only two are engaged at a given time doubling the POE.

  46. #46
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    I don't see why there is interest in these SRAM hubs unless the price is spectacular. Even an extra 50 to 90$ seems trival to pay for the extra reliability and known quantity of DTS or Hope. Perhaps if the SRAM where ultra quiet or had some differentiator then I'd be interested (maybe I'm missing something) . Fwiw you can get DTS 350 with the 54r installed already for 185$ rear on ebay new. Factor in the coupon and a front hub and that's dirt cheap for something where you know exactly what you are getting. No good engineer would pass on a known, reliable, high performing product unless there was significant upside for something else.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I don't see why there is interest in these SRAM hubs unless the price is spectacular. Even an extra 50 to 90$ seems trival to pay for the extra reliability and known quantity of DTS or Hope. Perhaps if the SRAM where ultra quiet or had some differentiator then I'd be interested (maybe I'm missing something) . Fwiw you can get DTS 350 with the 54r installed already for 185$ rear on ebay new. Factor in the coupon and a front hub and that's dirt cheap for something where you know exactly what you are getting. No good engineer would pass on a known, reliable, high performing product unless there was significant upside for something else.
    Lighter, cheaper, better engagement and quieter than Hope. Havenít seen any reports of durability problems...so to each his own, but I think theyíre a better deal than either of the others, thatís why I chose them. Having had Hopes before, I prefer these. So far rock solid for me. Seem like very nice hubs, I would choose them again given the choice.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    Lighter, cheaper, better engagement and quieter than Hope. Havenít seen any reports of durability problems...so to each his own, but I think theyíre a better deal than either of the others, thatís why I chose them. Having had Hopes before, I prefer these. So far rock solid for me. Seem like very nice hubs, I would choose them again given the choice.
    Yeah but I think they are about the same at the 350s tho which are (seemingly) widely loved for their value and reliability. The 350s are the same hub as the 240s just a heavier shell, and the 240s are awesome. I don't see the reason to depart from proven reliability and performance. What is the upside other than its "different"? I would choose the Hopes over DTS if I liked the noise and colors (plausible differentiators). SRAM business model isn't exactly geared to put out perfect products first either. They choose to get to market early, hope for the best and leverage their warranty service for the rest. (im in no way anti SRAM fwiw).

    BTW if you are the dude that got hubset for 185$, that makes sense and congrats on the smoking good deal.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I don't see why there is interest in these SRAM hubs unless the price is spectacular. Even an extra 50 to 90$ seems trival to pay for the extra reliability and known quantity of DTS or Hope. Perhaps if the SRAM where ultra quiet or had some differentiator then I'd be interested (maybe I'm missing something) . Fwiw you can get DTS 350 with the 54r installed already for 185$ rear on ebay new. Factor in the coupon and a front hub and that's dirt cheap for something where you know exactly what you are getting. No good engineer would pass on a known, reliable, high performing product unless there was significant upside for something else.
    I've seen a few reliability issues from Clyde's running 54 Poe star ratchets. Far less with the 36t.

  50. #50
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    You could say the same thing about dt hubs. Why buy a dt hub when you can get a WI, or Hadley? Same reason, having choices is nice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I've seen a few reliability issues from Clyde's running 54 Poe star ratchets. Far less with the 36t.
    Gotcha, so these are MORE reliable then. Thats cool. How is the drag with these? Are they super quiet? DTS 350 are quiet but with 54t they aren't that quiet. I don't want the extreme weight of an Onyx hub to get silence either.

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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    You could say the same thing about dt hubs. Why buy a dt hub when you can get a WI, or Hadley? Same reason, having choices is nice.
    Aren't those quite a bit more expensive tho? WI stuff is just beautiful too.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Gotcha, so these are MORE reliable then. Thats cool. How is the drag with these? Are they super quiet? DTS 350 are quiet but with 54t they aren't that quiet. I don't want the extreme weight of an Onyx hub to get silence either.
    we don't know if they're more reliable since they're still relatively new. But no real reports of failures, and the design looks promising due to the Paul size and outboard free hub bearing. I'll put them through their paces in the coming weeks. They're not too loud with factory grease, but certainly not silent. I expect they'll get fairly loud once they break in. Drag seems less than a hope right out of the box.

  54. #54
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    The ability to change end caps and axles on the Hopes and DT's as well as their known durability is what makes them a real value imho.
    Of all the paths you take in life, make sure that most of them are dirt.

  55. #55
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    What hubs don't have interchangeable end caps these days? And besides, last I checked, you can't go from standard to boost spacing via endcaps no matter who makes the hub. The known durability is certainly a valid statement, but end caps is a non issue IMO.

  56. #56
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    My rear 900 is holding up so far. I'm physically light, but VERY hard on my bike (I make poor decisions). If the hub lasts me a full year, I'll be happy. I'm at 4 months and 800 miles on my Enduro with the hub.

    I buy through my LBS, not via eBay or any other source.

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    Nothing will outlast DT Swiss 240 hubs. I have had sets that had well over 10,000 off road only miles, and that is though the NW Winters. I think I only went throughout one set of bearings in the rear hub on that set. I would love to see any other hubs last that long in our wet muddy winters on two sets of bearings. I think the 240ís have stainless bearings also but donít quote me on that.

  58. #58
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    Been on 900's(32h/std freehub/boost) for about a year (that is only about 500 miles, mostly techy xc). Nothing flashy, reasonably priced, and have been working great. Zero complaints.
    "In dog beers......... I only had one"

  59. #59
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    It's over a year since my post in this thread. My 900 hubs are still working fine.
    Do the math.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamaha267 View Post
    Nothing will outlast DT Swiss 240 hubs. I have had sets that had well over 10,000 off road only miles, and that is though the NW Winters. I think I only went throughout one set of bearings in the rear hub on that set. I would love to see any other hubs last that long in our wet muddy winters on two sets of bearings. I think the 240ís have stainless bearings also but donít quote me on that.
    Were those the 54t engagement version? Just so weíre comparing apples to apples...

  61. #61
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    My 900 are fine but they're louder than I like so I got some Dt 350 36t to swap them with.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    My 900 are fine but they're louder than I like so I got some Dt 350 36t to swap them with.
    I agree, 900s are significantly louder. I have tried to open my rear hub yesterday to add some grease to silence them. I could not remove cassette without several hub parts falling apart - bearing cap stayed with the cassette, exposed bearing just fallen out. When I tried to remove driver body, one of the pawls jumped out.

    Nevertheless, these parts looked very good (hub has only around 100 miles, mostly on road), so I re-greased them and put everything back together. I put some extra grease on hub insides, and it was some amount quieter, but the sound returned after about an hour of riding.

    Sram 900s are good hubs, but I like design of 350s better.

  63. #63
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    I was thinking my 900 freehub isn't loud enough.
    Do the math.

  64. #64
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    The pawls dont seem to be retained in any way, which is fine by me, considering how big they are. A few thousandths of an inch out of place is not gonna hurt anything.

    I finally have a few rides on my sram 900 rear hub, and so far so good. I abusively mash with careless abandon, and they haven't had a single hiccup yet. I scraped most of the factory grease out, and lubed with chain lube instead since I like a louder and more positive pawl engagement. Theyre just loud enough without being overly so. Its just enough to let the guy in front know that hes going at such a lethargic a pace that he's even holding up the heavy slow dudes. After a couple hundred miles Ill pull the freehub out and take a look for any signs of deformation or flex.

  65. #65
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    Forgot to mention, one plus of the DT350 is that- of you have 2 sets of wheels as I do for my fat bike- you can easily share a cassette. I use a Shimano driver as a dust cap for the wheel not in use.
    Iím still running 900ís on the trail bike, theyíre doing fine, waiting for summer since Spring is ****ed.

  66. #66
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    Another 900 user here - 220lbs mixed riding between SS and geared.

    I laced these to Arch MK3s last spring and after around 1000 miles of trail and running them hard over a few XC races and an 80km rocky, technical race they really show no signs of wear internally. I'm happy with the POE and the noise (super personal opinion) and they seem to spin almost as freely as my Hadleys.

    Only downside is as a few others mentioned, the freehub body isn't fixed so if the endcap gets bumped loose when not fitted to the frame there's a chance the freehub body will come out of the shell. Hasn't been an issue though and usually when that happens I'll peek inside and inspect the grease/pawls and pop it back in.

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