Results 1 to 39 of 39
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304

    DIY Studs and Tubeless

    I couldn't find much info online about whether a tubeless conversion of DIY studded tires would work so I thought I would give it a try (and I'm crossposting a bit to hopefully help other people find it more easily). Click on any of the images for fullsize:

    Tires are wirebead Maxxis Ignitor 29x2.1




    Studs are 120 6x3/8" self-drilling screws


    Velocity P35 rim with gorillatape rimstrip and cannibalized presta valvestem


    Sealant is a homebrew from this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/be...ew-406115.html. I just poured it right in. Someone had suggested lining the tire with gorillatape and I gave that a try, but without a tube in there there's nothing to keep the tape pressed against the tire so it would just flop around and wasn't any help.


    Airing it up tubeless was as easy as any tubeless setup I've ever done.


    After setup I took it for a spin around my parking garage, including popping the front and back wheels a few times. There was very little weeping from the studs - maybe a dozen per tire had sealant visible, but the rest were clean.


    When I finished the setup I was doing some other work on my bike, and every so often one of the studs would suddenly start audibly leaking air. It happened maybe twice per tire, and pretty randomly like after they'd been aired up for 10 or 20 minutes. Giving the tire a quick shake to slosh the sealant around stopped the leaks. My first ride around the garage also caused a few leaks, but they sealed up after a quick spin.

    So this is still an experiment but at this point it's turned out better than expected. I've got to give it a few days to see if it holds air, and I'll probably take it for a short ride tomorrow to see how things go after a km or two. Probably won't get to test them on snow for at least another week.

    If anyone is wondering why bother with this, it's basically because there aren't a lot of studded tires for 29ers - 700c tires are too narrow for what I want, and the Nokian 29er gets pretty middling reviews for such a pricey tire. I could see myself buying the new Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro 29er at some point, but it's brandnew and isn't readily available, and it's also super expensive. So DIY studs are my best option right now, and running tubeless will hopefully avoid the problem of the studs popping a tube or of needing to use tireliners.
    Last edited by newfangled; 10-28-2011 at 06:04 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    Tubeless studs Update #1

    Went for a quick 8km loop on the road, with a few little curbdrops and stuff. The pressures are holding, but I noticed that one stud on the rear has backed it self into the tire so far that it's almost completely invisible. It's the only one like that, but it looks like some of the others have sunk in a bit too. So I might have to ditch the tubeless and resort to a tire liner and tubes after all, but I'm going to give it a few more test rides to see how things go.

    Edited to add:

    I took the tires off to see what was going on. Here is the screw that's backed itself all the way into the tire:


    There was only one like that, but there were quite a few others that had backed in a mm or two:


    I've got some time to play around with this, so I think that I may back all the screws off a bit, add a drop of contact cement to the threads, and then re-tighten them and let them try. I'm hoping maybe that might provide just enough resistance to hold them in place? Failing that, I'll have to go with tubes.
    Last edited by newfangled; 10-30-2011 at 12:21 PM.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    After 2 weeks of riding:

    Before remounting them I gooped up the screws with contact cement:


    Front tire - tubeless, and still in great shape


    Rear tire - I chickened out and went with a tireliner & tube. The screws are noticeably more worn than on the front


    Its tough to tell from the photos (even if you click through to the big version), but on the rear tire a few of the screws are almost completely worn down. Other DIY approaches recommend studding the outside knob instead of the middle knob that I used, and for the rear tire that might be a good idea.

    The plus side is that even as these screws wear down they don't dull, because their cross-section has a lot of bite.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    12,046
    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    After 2 weeks of riding:

    Before remounting them I gooped up the screws with contact cement:


    Front tire - tubeless, and still in great shape


    Rear tire - I chickened out and went with a tireliner & tube. The screws are noticeably more worn than on the front


    Its tough to tell from the photos (even if you click through to the big version), but on the rear tire a few of the screws are almost completely worn down. Other DIY approaches recommend studding the outside knob instead of the middle knob that I used, and for the rear tire that might be a good idea.

    The plus side is that even as these screws wear down they don't dull, because their cross-section has a lot of bite.
    So 2 months say and the rear tire needs new screws?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    So 2 months say and the rear tire needs new screws?
    Well after 2 weeks there's 1 screw that's completely worn down, and 2 more that have maybe 25% left. The rest are all noticeably worn, but not nearly as badly. So it's going to be interesting to see if the 3 bad ones are just a fluke, or if the whole tire is going to rapidly disintegrate.

    If I were doing it again I'd probably use the outside knobs on the rear tire - that would make lining it more problematic since you need a really wide Mr. Tuffy, but on the other hand maybe tubeless would be a better bet since there's less direct load on the screws? I'd say this could be an experiment for next year, but at this rate I may need to try it in December.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    Tubeless DIY studs - Final Update

    My experiment with these is coming to an end because one of the online stores had the schwalbe 29ers at a price that I just couldn't pass up (and my wife needed something to get me for christmas). But after 1.5 months or about 600km on the Tubeless DIY studs here's what I learned:

    Front Tire


    Rear Tire


    Wear Comparison

    (A new #6 3/8" screw on the left
    A typical screw from the front tire in the middle
    A typical screw from the rear tire on the right)

    In a typical year I'll run studs for about 6 months or 3000km. So after less than a quarter of the winter the rear tire is completely worn down, and the front is on its way. On the other hand, this has been one of the warmest and least snowy winters that I can remember. In a typical December the roads would have a few inches of hardpack, but this year probably 90% of the 600km has been on bare pavement. If I'd done this test in any other year I probably would have gotten an extra few months out of them. If I hadn't found the cheap schwalbes I would have spent the holidays adding screws to the outer knobs.

    Stud the Outermost knobs - that's what all the tutorials recommend to reduce wear, but I didn't believe them, and I was wrong. If I did this again on the rear tire I would only stud the outer knobs, and on the front I would do a mix of outer and middlish. For the outer knobs I would also switch from #6 3/8" screws to #8 1/2" which would give a little more wear life.

    Tubeless Works - The front tire was run tubeless the whole time with zero issues. The rear tire initially had a tube/liner, but it got a puncture after about a month so I switched it to tubeless too. I had an initial problem with the screws backing into the tire, but the contact cement seems to have worked, and because contact cement isn't too permanent you can still remove/replace the screws later. Studding the outermost knobs should also reduce the tendency for the screws to back in, especially on the rear.

    They do work - there have been enough icy patches that I'm glad to have the studs, and these have worked really well even though they're worn. The only time I've had any slipping is climbing steep singletrack, but for aggressive riding on roads I haven't had any problems. For a weekend warrior bike, or a backup bike (lets say your primary winterbike is 26", but you want studs for your 29er), or just as a cheap way to get studs these are definitely workable.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    704

    Don't ride them on the road!

    The basic issue is riding them on the road. If you want to ride pavement, get carbide studded tires, the softer steel of home made and cheap commercial studded tires doesn't last (as test above).

    I use my home studded tires for singletrack only, mix of snow and ice, with a very, very rare rock sticking out.

    I studded a WTB Stout along the sides and run it on the front. I started with liners but have since run it tubeless. @ winters on it now doing well.

    The Stout is not a tubeless or TLR tire so needs a good blast from an air compressor as well as some time to become less porous, same as summer use of a non-tubeless tire.

  8. #8
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    I had used #4 screws on a tubed setup with good results. The black #6 are a harder alloy with a very sharp point (typically used for fastening sheet metal studs). They are pointy to pierce sheet metal but don't have the standard drill bit tip. I found these to last longer than the silver screws.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    I had used #4 screws on a tubed setup with good results. The black #6 are a harder alloy with a very sharp point (typically used for fastening sheet metal studs). They are pointy to pierce sheet metal but don't have the standard drill bit tip. I found these to last longer than the silver screws.
    +1 on this, I made a set years ago with the pointy sheet metal screws and they lasted a few years. I thing using the self tappers removes to much material from th rubber and the threads have nothing to bite into. You have to predrill a guide hole first with a 1/16 bit though.

  10. #10
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    I have not used pseudo studs in many years now. When I did tho I used the screws that have a sharp point, as I found self drillers did not hold position well. I am using Timberwolf 2.7 race at 12 psi. My friends are riding Pugsley and mukluk @ 4 psi. They cheat!
    Here is a link to icebike. Good site with links to similar sites as well

    IceBike Home Page

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    The Icebike studding tutorial is from Edmonton Bicycle Commuters (EBC) :: home and news, which is where I'm from. And I know people that swear by those for high-mileage commuting - with the caveat of needing to use liner(s) and worrying about flats - which is why I wanted to give tubeless a shot.

    I could see that using pointier screws would leave more of the tire, but adding contact cement was a workable fix to keep the screws in place. Now if I try to remove the screws there's just a bit of initial resistance, and then they're free to unscrew.

    I should have studded the outside studding the outside knobs (especially on the rear) but this also is a really bizarre year. It dropped to -10C a few nights ago, which was the coldest it's been in a month and a half. In a normal year by now we'd have had at least two weeks of deepfreeze where the temperatures never get above -25C. But this week the forecast is for highs of 8C which is great but crazy.

  12. #12
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    I like the contact cement idea. We have no snow ATM so no hurry. I'll give it a go

  13. #13
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    I'll try to studs my tires this week.

    Any suggestions on where to find the best screw for durability ? Maybe stainless ones ?

    And is #4 screws the limit in diameter or could I go down a bit to use different sizes to match the existing tread pattern of the tire ?

    I'm thinking a nice #8 not too long on the middle knobs, and maybe some #6 a bit longer on the outside knobs for rear tire ? 26x2.3

    For front maybe using #4 outside and a few shorter ones on the middle ? 26x1.95

    Any preference on the head ? V head or flat one ?

    I'll be using tubes, so I figured out a nice layer of duct tape over the tire interior to cover the screw heads would work good ?

    And what is the max length for the screw tip to be exposed ? Without interfering with rolling quality ? Personal experiences ?

    I'll be riding about 5 km a day, and mostly only pavement, with a few days of black ice and such, so I don't want to get the screw too long that it will shred out the knobs when riding on pavement.

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    ^ I had #8x1/2" screws, but they seemed way too long for the inner knobs so I switched to the 6x3/8" instead. But for the outer knobs 8x1/2" should be fine, and they're what I see other people using around here. I found that the giant Canadian hardware chains didn't have a great selection in the small sizes, so I just went with what was available.

    Not sure how much of a difference the screw head really makes, but the general recommendation is for a panhead roberston since there aren't many sharp edges:



    As for a tire liner, I used a Mr. Tuffy taped in with Gorilla Tape, and after a month I still ended up with puncture on the back tire. I think it was just bad luck because it looked like something went straight-through the tire and missed the liner, but it was still annoying. All I can really say is that Gorilla Tape should stick better than ducttape, and rather than lining the inside of the tire with tape (which is a pain) I've seen some people putting little patches of tape over each individual screw head. That might actually be easier than lining the whole tire, and it might work better. But my liner experience was a failure so I'm bitter about it.

    The other thing is that even when the screws on my rear tire looked like they were completely worn down I didn't have any traction problems. My commute has had lots of black ice, but the only time I had any slipping was climbing on some singletrack.

  15. #15
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    # 4's are very thin, I had used panheads. #8 is rather fat and caused the treads to split. #6 works well
    #4x1/2" or #6x1/2 were the sizes I had used. 1.8" exposure worked nicely. Keep in mind the tread blocks need to have a little meat around the screw so they stay put. I do like the 55 mile per hour tape idea. I did not place screws in the centerline of the tire to preserve ride quality, air pressure so the tire has a slight flex when you are on the bike (more tire on the road).
    #4 less noticeable than #6 on ride quality, tho booth work well.

    If only Bridgestone would make Blizzaks for bikes!!!

  16. #16
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    Forgot to mention....tires I used had very deep tread. Thanks Newfangled for pointing out 3/8 length.

  17. #17
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Thanks guys.

    My tires are rear/front specific, so I'll have to improvise different pattern for both.

    But are steel plated metal/wood screw alright or too soft ? Because that's what I have on hand and if I can save myself a trip to the hardware store it would be faster to get the job done.

    I think I'll use #6 in back and #4 in front. Is using some type of cement on the screw treads a good thing to help it stay in place and not get the rubber around too loose ?

    Thanks

    Here's a pic of my rear tire and front.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DIY Studs and Tubeless-img_0485.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-_dsc4897.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  18. #18
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    Self drillers may make the screws push back into the tire is my theory, which lead me to use the pointy variety. Your tires look like good stud candidates as the tread has good real estate to hold em in place.

    Lighting farts...!!!LOL

  19. #19
    A wheelist
    Reputation: Mike T.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    5,902
    The ones I did years ago, I smeared blobs of silicone caulking over the screw heads. I didn't have any problem with them unscrewing. Normal screws are absolutely no good for riding on any hard paved surface - ice and snow only.
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with information and motivation.

  20. #20
    I4NI
    Reputation: S_Trek's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,222
    Awsome writeup & info

    Wish I had some snow so I could play
    There....Are... Four...Lights!

  21. #21
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Quote Originally Posted by S_Trek View Post
    Awsome writeup & info

    Wish I had some snow so I could play
    Yeah, thanks guys

    And I wish I have some snow right now... We had lot of it, but suddenly we had a day of warmer temp, and then lot of rain and right after super freezing temps, like -20C for a few days... So now I have plenty of ice to play with

    I'll give it a shot for the front tire today, as I have 2-3 of those tires, so I'll take one laying around and if I get good results, I'll mount it in place.

    I'm planning to use #4 screws, with a pre-drilled hole to drive them in, maybe use some silicone cement like suggested, then apply a good liner inside the tire, mount it on a rim with tube, air it up and see how it goes.

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    ^ Some people say that for commuting all you really need is the front tire. I quite like having the back too, but the front is definitely most important.

    And I guess that I never mentioned it in the writeup, but instead of drilling pilot holes I used a really small flathead screwdriver (from one of those sets of computer screwdrivers) to punch the initial hole through. It worked well enough, and I did it that way instead of drilling because it didn't remove any rubber from the knobs.

  23. #23
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Yeah, thanks guys

    And I wish I have some snow right now... We had lot of it, but suddenly we had a day of warmer temp, and then lot of rain and right after super freezing temps, like -20C for a few days... So now I have plenty of ice to play with

    I'll give it a shot for the front tire today, as I have 2-3 of those tires, so I'll take one laying around and if I get good results, I'll mount it in place.

    I'm planning to use #4 screws, with a pre-drilled hole to drive them in, maybe use some silicone cement like suggested, then apply a good liner inside the tire, mount it on a rim with tube, air it up and see how it goes.

    David
    Enjoying global warming here in colorado...shorts n hoody weather!

    Let us know how studs are working out

  24. #24
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Enjoying global warming here in colorado...shorts n hoody weather!

    Let us know how studs are working out
    I'm closing my damn computer right now and going to lock myself in the mancave for the rest of the day. I'll update through my iPhone
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Stugotz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    427
    Subscribe

    Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
    Speed Kills...It kills those that don't have it!
    German Engineering in Da Haus, Ja!

  26. #26
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Well I started to work a bit on the front tire. Did about half of it so far.

    I did drilled a pilot hole, as it makes driving the screws a lot easier and less chances to misalignment. After trying out a few different screws, I've come to the final pattern. Unfortunately, it was getting late, so I'll have to finish it tomorrow.

    So I'll be using small screws, just smaller then #4, with metal treading, that has a self-drilling tip, as the tip will just be the right length to stick out nicely of the knob. Those will be on the limits of the road contact zone of the tire. They'll stick to about 1/8" out.

    Then on the outer knobs, which are there for cornering, I'll use some #4x1/2 wood/metal screws that will stick to about 1/4" out, to grab the ground when cornering and to help when the front tire want to skid under braking. We'll see how it goes.

    Pics.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325738299.505769.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325738439.741363.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325738698.573281.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325738723.723555.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  27. #27
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    Nice job! They are looking very functional.

    Keep up the good work!

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    Yup, I went with way more screws than I needed for simple commuting. What you've done so far looks like it will work great.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    39
    Great info! Subscribe

  30. #30
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Thanks

    I was wondering how much screw is too much, because you can easily see it as not enough or just too much... Like tire tread pattern.

    I'm hoping for the middle screws to wear out to flat with the knobs, so from there I'll still have traction on ice, but the screws will then wear out as the same rate as the knobs, which will make it even better. Unless the screws really wear past the knobs ?

    And did anyone had rust or bad corrosion problem with the screws ? Like they will break or stain the tire and make a big mess ?

    SS screws are kinda expensives, and hardened steel is way harder too, but will rust faster then SS. Thoughts ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  31. #31
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,318
    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Thanks

    I was wondering how much screw is too much, because you can easily see it as not enough or just too much... Like tire tread pattern.

    I'm hoping for the middle screws to wear out to flat with the knobs, so from there I'll still have traction on ice, but the screws will then wear out as the same rate as the knobs, which will make it even better. Unless the screws really wear past the knobs ?

    And did anyone had rust or bad corrosion problem with the screws ? Like they will break or stain the tire and make a big mess ?

    SS screws are kinda expensives, and hardened steel is way harder too, but will rust faster then SS. Thoughts ?
    I had used the little black screws (harder alloy than zinc plated) protruding 1/8" and to the side of the center line of the tire. Spaced every 3rd lug. Rust was not really a noticeable problem. You are right SS expensive option. I alternated edge lugs and off center lugs to
    give traction of rubber with traction of studs. They seemed to perform well but noisy on pavement. I rode 3 seasons on my poor mans studs. The home studs were a reasonable option to factory studed tires as the price is absurd! Your pics look good.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    The thing about stainless is that it's mostly about corrosion resistance, but for wear resistance it won't be much better than normal screws. And from my little test wear is a much bigger issue than corrosion. If you want to ride in the ocean or through an acidbath the stainless might help, but for anything else it's probably not much use.

    Edited to add: I knew I'd read this somewhere: Bolt Depot - Selecting Fastener Materials - Steel Grades, Brass, Bronze, Stainless Steel

    Stainless Steel:

    It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to the low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened. Therefore when compared with regular steel it is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel fastener but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners.

    Steel:

    Grade 2 is a standard hardware grade steel. This is the most common grade of steel fastener and is the least expensive.

    Grade 5 bolts are hardened to increase strength

    Alloy steel bolts are made from a high strength steel alloy and are further heat treated. Alloy steel bolts are typically not plated resulting in a dull black finish. Alloy steel bolts are extremely strong but very brittle.
    The canadian hardware stores had a pretty limited selection of anything, though.

  33. #33
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Front tire is done. I pretty much ran out of short screws for the middle knobs, so I sourced them from a melting pot of all kind of screws I had collected over the years (I knew it would be handy one day ). Result is good, with 4x1/2 plated steel screws on the outer knobs.

    I'm gonna go ride to the hardware store to test the studs and try to bed them into a duller tip. I used a layer of duct tape over the heads to protect the tube and mounted it on a front wheel. Aired it up to 50 psi and an hour later still no leak. So I'll take it of and put it on my winter bike. I'm gonna try to find some good hardened screws for my rear tire at the hardware store.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802423.102936.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802458.732282.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802497.903011.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802533.598723.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802583.287234.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325802635.853453.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  34. #34
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    I mounted the tire on my bike, the duct tape liner has been flatten real good by the temporary wheel, so it was no problem with it. I put about 50 psi in, way more that I used to for winter riding, to be sure everything stay in place.

    I've rode pretty much only on wet pavement, asphalt and concrete, around -6 C and a bit of black ice. Rolling resistance was not a problem at all. It only sound like I was always rolling over that salt they dump in the streets, but at least I had better front wheel control over packed snow and ice. I think it could be even better by adding screws to the center tread, as when I hit a ice zone, the front tire can get some grab already. And I also almost went OTB when I decided to lock the front wheel on asphalt to see how good it worked. Man, doing stoppies on wet asphalt as never been easier. I think I made about 30 of them, playing around in the street Those studs do very well on pavement actually. But on ice, I don't feel like I would be able to stop any faster, just maybe able to keep the bike up, but can't stop the bike to skid.

    I've picked up some screws at the hardware store. 6x3/8, self tapers, pretty much as the one used by newfangled. They didn't had any hardened screws and no SS in the right size. I was lucky to find them, it was the last box of the right size I needed. I was thinking about using Tapcon concrete screws, but I would had to cut every single one as they were no shorter then 1". And expensive. I'll see how it goes for the rear tire tomorrow. I might not use a lot of screws, but try as BansheeRune has suggested, to alternate to leave a good rubber contact with the ground.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325829907.756478.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325829978.906046.jpg  

    DIY Studs and Tubeless-imageuploadedbytapatalk1325830030.107199.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: newfangled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3,304
    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I've picked up some screws at the hardware store. 6x3/8, self tapers, pretty much as the one used by newfangled. They didn't had any hardened screws and no SS in the right size. I was lucky to find them, it was the last box of the right size I needed.
    Seriously, the selection that stores stock is pretty disappointing.

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I think it could be even better by adding screws to the center tread...
    When I did mine I did put one screw in a center knob, and it wore down almost immediately. I think it still provides some traction even after it's flush with the rubber knob, but I think the slightly off-center knobs that you used for the shorter screws are probably a better bet. If you lower the pressure down around 30~35psi then they should be nicely in contact with the ground.

  36. #36
    Huckin' trails
    Reputation: David C's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5,848
    Yeah, but the guy made me 50% off, so for the price, I decided I would try them out.

    I'll try to lower the pressure a bit next time.

    I was planning on doing my rear tire today, but since I didn't work at all yesterday, I got to do today. Maybe in the evening ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    8

    I like your style!!!!

    I'm in the process of making my third pair of these tires and its my first tubless attempt. First off I chose my tires, I'm only using these on the snow and ice so at first wanted to use 1.9 maxxis high rollers, but they wouldnt inflate on my rims so I had to open up my tire "tickle" trunk (wich is actually a closet that is full of all types of tires I've ridden or wanted to over the years) and found GEAX Blades. At first I wasn't sure (man they are ugly) but they inflated without a problem (1st good point) then I tried them on snow OMG it was likke riding on rails!!!! now i had to studd them. I first trimmed the knobs that would receive the screws then drilled the pilot holes and I've started inserting the screws, I decided to go with Shoe Goo instead of rubber cement. I'm not yet finished with the project but here is a photo of the tires I'm running..if you want to buy some, sorry they've been discontinued. I'll post photos of the procedure and end product soon, maybe tomorrow!!!

    p.s. I cant post any photos yet..I have to make 9 more posts- dumb rule. I'll work some magic!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    8
    as I said, this is not my first attempt. out of all of the studded tires on the market its so hard to find something that is versatile; 1 is it good in just snow?
    2 is it a good cornering tire?
    3 will the rubber freeze at -15 (proudly Canadian)
    4 how much does it weght
    5 how much does it cost ( proudly a miser)
    I'll be putting 250 screws in the front tire, and 200 in the rear at a weight gain of only 700 grams in all, not bad............

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    8
    WOW, I guess I can post photos!!!
    Last edited by Enduroelite; 03-02-2012 at 02:37 PM. Reason: spelling mistake

Similar Threads

  1. How many of you were already studs when you got a SS?
    By SWriverstone in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 73
    Last Post: 10-25-2010, 02:18 PM
  2. When to run studs and when not to..
    By mdplayer in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 12-16-2007, 07:42 AM
  3. Studs On
    By jeffscott in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-03-2007, 10:39 AM
  4. Studs on
    By jeffscott in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-01-2006, 10:57 AM
  5. studs ??
    By rlb in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-29-2005, 01:06 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •