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  1. #1
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    Converting Maxxis DH non-tubeless to tubeless; Stans is no help

    I recently received the new Maxxis DHR II (DH 2-ply). It is a great improvement over the old DHR, but there is one big problem. The Old DHR was available in UST. The new DHR is not tubeless ready, although I can verify it goes on with Stans and a floor pump.

    The problem is the sidewall, though tough, is porous. Inflating with 2 cups of Stans, over 2 days, did almost nothing and it would still go flat in about 1-2 hrs. There appears to be a TL (tubeless ready) tire in the works, as Maxxis appears to be switching to TL, from UST. However, it looks like that one will be single ply only.

    So my dilemma is: how to I make this tire work. It is going on a Mavic 823, so the rim will not be an issue. There appear to be a few new products on the market such as:

    ORANGE SEAL - ?Ride More? with Orange Seal?s Tubeless Tire Sealant | Mountain Bike Review

    As well as other products such as:

    SLIME - SLIME ? Worldwide Leader in Tire Care ? Repairing a flat tire? Slime Tire & Tube Sealant Catalog Catalog Products Slimepro Tubeless Sealant- For UST and Conversion Bikes (10112)
    SUPERJUICE - Bontrager: Super Juice Tubeless Sealant (Model #04242)
    FENWICKS - Airtight Tubeless Sealant

    I particularly like the looks of Fenwicks, seems like its made in the UK, and I have no experience with it, or know anyone who has. I like the idea of painting it on.


    Does anyone have experience with using a sealant to 'convert' a non-tubeless tire to tubeless. I have no doubt the Maxxis DHR II would make a good DH tire, but being that it is so porous, I can't use it without a tube, and I hate pinch flats. Any experience in this area would be appreciated. Thanks.
    Regional Race Manager, Knolly Bikes
    Washington State, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa
    ~~~KNOLLY KNATION RACING~~~

  2. #2
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    I like Maxxis tires too, Minion DHF mainly and would quite like to run Larsen TT, Ardent or Advantage on the rear single and ply DHF on the front, but I feel they are not tubeless ready enough to be safe on the rim or need too much sealant and constant topping up with air, so am using Schwalbes as they are nearly all tubeless ready. IMHO It's Maxxis's fault for being slow on spending money on R&D. You can pay a lot for Schwalbe, but they do seem to spend money keeping up with the game. Light and tubeless ready. Will switch back to Maxxis when they get their act together.

  3. #3
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    I have run the DHR2 2.4 DH casing and the same size and casing for the High Roller 2 tubeless with little issue. Just some seaping at the bead when first set up. After a day or two I didn't need to top up the air. Only notices a little seapage through the side wall on the first one....went away in a few moments.
    The tubeless ready version of the DHR2 is only in the 2.3 width right now. I use it as a rear tire. It has a little less cornering grip than the 2.4 but I like it that way for the rear tire.
    The folding bead and single wall on that 2.3 is not the same feel as the DH casing as you might be suspecting.
    I hope with time your tires seal up nice. Sorry you didn't have the same luck i did.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
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    BTW: That DHR2 is a fantastic front tire. Best I have ever had.

  5. #5
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    Rdhfreethought, something weird is going on with your tubeless setup. I've run standard Maxxis 2ply DH tires (non-UST) for years with out any problems like you are having. I've even changed a tires less than 1 hour before a DH race run. I find that standard Maxxis tires convert to tubeless easier than most anyother brand (Schwalbe is just a bit better when converting).

    The one difference I see is that I don't use UST rims. I mostly use NoTubes rims and their sealant. Things to check:
    1. Try to dry mount your tire (no sealant). It should pop loud 2 or three times when seating. If it doesn't the rim to tire interface may be too loose.
    2. Make sure you shake the sealant really well and hold the bottle upside down for at least 10 seconds before pouring into the cup. You need those little granuals to help seal the bead and any small holes in your tire.
    3. After adding sealant inflate to about 20psi. Bounce the wheel on edge slowly turning it in a circle. This helps set the bead.
    4. Infate to about 30 psi and ride it around the block making a lot of S turns to fully seat the bead and allow the sealant to reach any leaks.
    5. May have to add a few psi the next day, but usually it's ready to go.

    Good luck,
    Scott @ GO-RIDE.com
    Turner DHR
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    Giant Anthem 27.5
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    Lil Shredder 20" - son's

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott@GO-RIDE.com View Post
    Rdhfreethought, something weird is going on with your tubeless setup. I've run standard Maxxis 2ply DH tires (non-UST) for years ,
    Thanks Scott.

    The problem has nothing to do with seating the bead. It popped wonderfully with just the floor pump (I always coat the bead with Stans). The problems is with the porous sidewall. After the bike wash, you could see thousands of little holes seeping air. Some of them were seeping Stans. From what others have said, I am sure the Stans might have sealed it eventually, but I didn't have 2 days to ensure a good seal. And since I poured the last of the Stans into the tire, there was no more left (and should have been plenty of little granular bits to seal).

    I also think the new tires are quite different than the old ones. I have also used an old DHR non-UST without issues. Though, I don't remember how long it took before it stopped leaking air, it definitely did not have the veritable sieve in the sidewall that I have encountered with the DHR II.

    I think I am going to try Orange Seal.
    Regional Race Manager, Knolly Bikes
    Washington State, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa
    ~~~KNOLLY KNATION RACING~~~

  7. #7
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    ^

    Orange Seal (short term exp) is awesome. They say it is thicker, but I couldn't tell. More like whole milk, than the milkshake consistency I wanted. However, it aired up my DHR II straight away with a floor pump on my 823 rims. Took Stans 2 people and frantic pumping for 5 min or so.

    Sealing the sidewall much better than Stans. It is more expensive, but if this product is stable with tire rubber, I am sold.
    Regional Race Manager, Knolly Bikes
    Washington State, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa
    ~~~KNOLLY KNATION RACING~~~

  8. #8
    Trail Tire TV on blogger
    Reputation: thomllama's Avatar
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    Orange Seal or Caffe Latex will work... both coat the whole tire not just the outer most area.

    I've been using Caffe latex over Stan's for yrs... at first set up you need to add 1.5x's the normal fluid and spin the tire up good to get it to foam and coat.. will usually go flat the first night or 2 on super porous tires but after that it seals right up... I also like that it protects the side wall from punctures much better than Stan's.

    Haven't tried the orange stuff yet but looks promising (thou maybe heavy...if that matters to you?)
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  9. #9
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    Honestly I think Maxxis should just recall all their unsold tires from shops, remeasure all their tires so they are consistent sized throughout the range and make them all properly TL (tubeless ready). There seems some desire to sell off the old stock before allowing the new versions onto the market, this might bite them as people switch over to over tubeless ready tires made by other companies. Many of the tires that the pros were using at the Enduro World Cup look marked TL and a bunch of other ways, suggests that the pros can get properly tubeless ready tires that the regular Joe can't.

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