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  1. #1
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    conditioning miles on Nokian Extreme 296

    Does anyone know why Nokian suggests riding 30 miles on pavement before using their studded 296 tires on ice/snow ? What does it achieve? What are the downsides if you do not?

  2. #2
    Lucifer rides an mtb
    Reputation: Big K's Avatar
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    Removes the coating

    I just started riding on a pair of WXC300s... love 'em! I'm no expert, but it's my understanding that there is a coating on the studs that you need to wear off the tip so you get better traction. I am not going to do anything special since I live 3 miles from the trailhead and will eventually get this break-in milage done regardless. Plus, after my first ride on snow, packed snow and ice, I don't see what additional traction I need - they were awesome right out of the chute!

  3. #3
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    The breakin period seats the studs so they don't pull out so easily.

  4. #4
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    answer form Nokian

    I e-mailed Nokian the same day I posted the question here-
    Got my response today from Finland.

    "Hi,
    During 30 mile brake in period studs will find their place. Studs might be abit aslant after mounting process and you might loose some studs easily.

    Regards,
    Jorma"

    I doubt I'll get 30 pavement only miles in before serious trail riding. It will be a mix. So far the tires are great on the icy stuff I've ridden - off camber roots and general trail stuff. Not so hot doing tight turns on smooth pavement. The studs will skid some.

  5. #5
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    Do not cut the bed-in process short. You will lose studs. It would be better to put a few hundred road miles on them before taking them offroad. The tires are molded with wells that the studs are then pressed into. The studs themselves use a mushroom head to anchor themselves in the rubber, but there is not really a recess molded into the tire for this head. The disc of metal which makes up the mushroom head needs to cut its way into the rubber to really be seated and that takes a while to accomplish. Before they are really anchored they twist out fairly easily. After they are in there snug they are very hard to pull out. I have some tires which are many years old and the studs are in there almost permanently. I have some new tires and I pushed the breakin a bit too fast and I have lost about 6 studs already (I have extras out of an old fried tire so I just replace the lost ones).

    Even after they are broken in, never ride them on rocky trails.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the additional info -

    but, if I'm putting in a couple hundred miles on the road, I'll do my road bike thing. So, OK, road miles. What kind of tire pressure? I'm guessing on the high side to provide some resistance for the studs to press in against? And some leaning turns to give the side studs some action too? I'm betting those are the ones that leave the tire most often.

  7. #7
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
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    Just run regular pressure, and don't expect to be able to corner very hard. The studs and pavement do not offer great traction. Just put them on a commuting bike for a while and that is good enough.

    Initially I lose the center studs, ususally going over roots and rocks. Later it is more common to pull the side studs because they don't seat as readily, not seeing much action out there.
    My video techniques can be found in this thread.

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