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  1. #51
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    good info here. I'm going to order a set soon to build a racing wheelset.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm520 View Post
    Short term update:

    I've got 10hrs on the HDW2 hub now. It has been working well. I am having a small issue with the free hub "banging" on engagement occasionally. The first couple of rides it did it ~5 times. I cleaned out all of the stock tacky grease and relubed with a very light film of sythetic grease. Since doing so, it has only made the noise once or less per ride. It only seems to do this when there is just the slightest pause of torque, as in pedaling along under light load, barely ease off the torque and right back on it. The freehub nevers ratchets prior to the noise. I thought it may be a drivetrain noise my geared bike, but I put the wheels on my ss and the noise followed the hub.

    My theory is that more spring preload on the paws will fix the issue. I am currently looking for stiffer springs and have a few leads. I'm also looking at making springs similar to the Hope design from spring steel. The stock springs are really light.

    Good news, I was mistaken about the ring gear being made from plastic. I just had the hub apart and the wear markings on the gear is conistent with steel. Grabbed a magnet and it stuck. These should be solid hubs if I can get the engagement issue solved.
    Put another 6hr on the CM hub since my last update. The noise I previously spoke off has all but disappeared. I never was able to determine for sure if it was the hub or not. I have also switched to using a light application of lube made from grease that I thinned with gear lube (approx 1 part grease:5 parts gear lube). I tried straight gear lube, but it quickly puked it out of the seal.

    As someone previously noted, the freehub seal doesn't do much for blocking water. Every time I wash the bike, I pull the freehub and there is water inside. I let it air dry, lube the ring gear, and put it back together. Not a huge deal, but kind of a pain. The bearing in the freehub next to the ring gear is already slightly pitted.

  3. #53
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    Can someone let me know if these front hub measurements are correct:

    FRONT HUB HDW2
    left dia 38
    right dia 58
    left offset 37.5
    right offset 24

  4. #54
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    that corresponds to my measurements of the HDW. Accroding to the pictures, the HDW2 front hub is the same as the HDW.
    My measurements :
    Left Flange dia : 57.5
    Left Flange distance: 23.0
    Right Flange dia : 37.5
    Right Flange distance : 36.0

  5. #55
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    delete
    Last edited by bikin_pat; 03-26-2012 at 08:57 AM.

  6. #56
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    Any more inputs/ updates on cm hubs? Planning to buy one.

  7. #57
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    My rear hub is still making the loud pop under engagement every now and then. If I dont keep the paws clean and freshly lubed, it seems to be worst. I would still like to find some stronger springs.

  8. #58
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    Finally riding mine

    Only 3 rides to date, we'll see how they hold up. If, as one poster reported, they "only" last for 3,500 miles I'll be very happy - knock on wood
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Circus Monkey hubs-glam-bridge-small-.jpg  


  9. #59
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    HDW or HDW2 ?

  10. #60
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    Final Update

    In a nutshell, this hub is junk. Far to many problems in its fairly short 30hr life span to be a reliable option. Ring gear has made contact with the hub shell (see first pic). Two teeth on the ring gear are damaged (see second and third pic). It is still making the loud "pop" under engagement randomly and needs constant relube jobs to keep this at a minimum. The freehub seal is absolutely useless. I have had to clean the freehub anytime it gets wet. The freehub shell bearings only lasted 15hrs before they started making noise under torque. Spent 25$ to replace them. Hub shell bearings are on there way out, which will be another 25$ to replace. The outer bearing dust shields are junk. The brake side axle end cap is damaged and needs replacement. And . . . the front hub bearings/seals are also crap.

    I figure that I wasted 100$ on this rear hub plus another 25$ for the bearings. YMMV, but I'm done with this hub as soon as I figure out what I'm going to replace it with. I knew it was a gamble going into this purchase, but I never thought it would turn out this bad.






  11. #61
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    Sorry to hear about the hub crapping out but I think all of those hubs with that common design are less than optimal. The axle is too flexy - allowing for the contact that you've experienced and the pawls in the hubshell is a bad idea.

    The older type of Monkey Hub looks like a Novatec 712 copy. The Novatec 712 rear hubs are much more reliable. A possible light alternative is the bikehubstore M252. Don't get the Rotaz/Chin Haur/A2Z etc ones.

    But, there are a number of people who continue to post about how "bullet-proof" these type of hub desings are. I can only assume they don't ride much and their wheels never leave the ground. I've given up warning people.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by surf418 View Post
    What is your opinion on Circus Monkey's? What's the weight for rear hub? They quoted me $90 for rear hub only, seems pretty cheap but what about quality?
    Buy unknown ****, pay twice.
    Buy good, pay once.

    Stay with the proven brands if you try to go above shimanos engagement, like true precision, hadley, white industries (which is low poe just as phil wood), chris king. The rest is most likely taiwan **** and any shimano will outlive them. Easily. By several years most likely. I have the slx latest gen now and they kick ass. And they were cheap too. I can't believe they are that good for lunch money. I also have highend Ringlé and TP at hand but there is no need for it..
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  13. #63
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    Awesome, now either the end cap or the axle is bent in the front hub. Kept having to adjust my front brake caliper every time I would remove the wheel. Had me scratching my head for a few days. Put a reference mark on the end cap so I put it back in the same place every time, problem solved.

  14. #64
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    Weird

    I just went over 1K off road miles, still going strong. Took the rear hub apart a coupla weeks ago to see if it looked like above ^^ but so far (knock on wood) so good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Circus Monkey hubs-pivot-summit-small-.jpg  


  15. #65
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    anyone tried the HDH versions?

  16. #66
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    more interesting there is HDW3-R available claimed weight 226 gr.. very interesting..

  17. #67
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    Can somebody confirm that the original HDW-R hub has an engagement system with 3 pawls in the freehub? I want to make sure that it is the 2nd generation HDW2-R hub the one that comes with the awful 6 pawls design (like the version reviewed by ktm520).
    I checked some pictures of the 3rd generation HDW3-R hub and they went back to the 3 freehub pawls. It's hard to say from the picture but it seems that the new pawls come with a multiple teeth system to increase the POE with only 3 pawls.


  18. #68
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    the "new" freehub ratchet is not all that new !
    it's been around to some hubs for 3 year or more , i have the same ratchet on my road bike wheel , it is very fast with 51 steps and 3 pawls (3 teeth each) with flat spring each.
    DO NOT USE GREASE , best way to keep it run is to use engine oil

  19. #69
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    From all this info it looks like the HDW & HDW3 are a better choice over the HDW2. But dang. The HDW2 set is 42grams less.. That sounds nice but not worth the headaches. So any input on best to worse on these 3 hubs?

  20. #70
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    Anyone seen the HDW3-R for sale anywhere?

  21. #71
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    I have not. Jst seen the CM web site. But think of asking a seller to order a few items I like from the site. Make a good package deal for some RESEARCH..

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sablotny View Post
    I just went over 1K off road miles, still going strong. Took the rear hub apart a coupla weeks ago to see if it looked like above ^^ but so far (knock on wood) so good.
    So are the hubs still doing good> whats the amount or ride on them now?

  23. #73
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    One year ago, I built a pair of road 50mm carbon tubulars for a friend, with Circus Monkey hubs. After 3000km, he complains only about the bearings of the front hub that are becoming slack. The rear hub is fine.
    The hubs are the first generation (3 pawls in the freewheel).

  24. #74
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    1yr old & good ok with 3000km (1864miles). That is good. The 3gens are hard to find but seem to be a lot like the first gen. I been to the site a few times & was going ot ask them where to get the 3 gen & looked at maybe getting a few other of there items.

  25. #75
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    I'm around 1,300 miles on mine. Starting to get scoring inside the freehub body as KTM shows above. No broken teeth... yet... but I am starting to think these are disposal hubs.

  26. #76
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    If your lookn at 1300 & one other rider got 1800. These should wrk good for my build. I do not race. ever get air. I average 60 to 90 miles a mnth. Then miss out a few mnths do to bad weather. A set should get me 30 to 36mnths. Hmmmm. Maybe I will try to look more into the 3rd gen hub. How to get them. Maybe get a few hundred more miles

  27. #77
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    Here are they : CIRCUS MONKEY MTB HUB SET--HDW3 | eBay
    From the picture, they look more machined than generation 1 (that I own). They weight is impressive for the money ! From experience, quoted weights by Circus Monkey are rather accurate...
    Nice choice of colours and drillings

  28. #78
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    Work to Ride - Ride to Work
    There's no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing...

  29. #79
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    Anyone manage to replace all the rear bearings? Mine is toast after an extremely muddy CX race.

  30. #80
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    My HDW2 set have been on my disc commuter for nearly a year now and the freehub bearing has just gone after 9000+km. Not bad I guess, don't fancy my chances of a warranty though?...
    This bearing...

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabrice View Post
    Here are they : CIRCUS MONKEY MTB HUB SET--HDW3 | eBay
    From the picture, they look more machined than generation 1 (that I own). They weight is impressive for the money ! From experience, quoted weights by Circus Monkey are rather accurate...
    Nice choice of colours and drillings
    I see why I could not find them. That is not the US ebay. I never try looking in other countries. I need to more often.

  32. #82
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    So now I am looking for spoke length info. I know when build DT Swiss on to my Crest 29er rims the spokes need to be 292 to 294 spoke length. But then American Classics on the Crest 29er rim takes 280 to 282 spoke length. I been lookig for info to match so I can find the length to buy. After a week of trying I decided to come back& ask if any one here knows there spoke length & is anyone running Arch or Crest rims with CM hubs

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by WerxRacing View Post
    So now I am looking for spoke length info. I know when build DT Swiss on to my Crest 29er rims the spokes need to be 292 to 294 spoke length. But then American Classics on the Crest 29er rim takes 280 to 282 spoke length. I been lookig for info to match so I can find the length to buy. After a week of trying I decided to come back& ask if any one here knows there spoke length & is anyone running Arch or Crest rims with CM hubs
    The dimensions of the new rear hub is in a photo on their facebook page, Notubes posts their ERD's on their website, there are several spoke calculators on the internets...

    You can also contact them via their website if you need to know specifics... CIRCUS MONKEY
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  34. #84
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    Yea , I am on both there FB pages & go to the site often. All the info looks like 2.5 on end by cassette & 2.25 on other end. But wanted to be sure. It all looks confusing...LOL

    FB1) https://www.facebook.com/CircusMonkeyPh/photos_stream

    FB2) https://www.facebook.com/circusbike?ref=ts&fref=ts

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by WerxRacing View Post
    Yea , I am on both there FB pages & go to the site often. All the info looks like 2.5 on end by cassette & 2.25 on other end. But wanted to be sure. It all looks confusing...LOL

    FB1) https://www.facebook.com/CircusMonkeyPh/photos_stream

    FB2) https://www.facebook.com/circusbike?ref=ts&fref=ts
    On FB2 pic gallery - black, disc, CM hubs with carbon centers - never seen these before, does anyone have info on these.

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by TigWorld View Post

    But, there are a number of people who continue to post about how "bullet-proof" these type of hub desings are. I can only assume they don't ride much and their wheels never leave the ground.

    That would be somebody like my daughter; built her 24" wheels. Great choice for her. Light, works great.

    Would I consider it for myself, mashing a long travel bike? No. I think that is quite obvious.

  37. #87
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    If people are interested in the HDW3-carbon in the US. 199.oo & 20.oo to get them to you.
    Im talkn to a Shirley Ho that contacted me from one of the FB pages

    159.00 + 20 shp HDW3

    199.00 + 20 shp HDW3-carbon

  38. #88
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  39. #89
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    What are the specs on the HDW3-carbon? Weight etc?

  40. #90
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    I will ask Shirley

  41. #91
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    She says 225.6 for the carbon hub. So same as regular. Jst looks cooler..lol

  42. #92
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    Just got a set of the Circus Monkey HDW 3, 28 hole. Nice to see the weight claim is accurate. They came with QR skewers, which I figured would be heavy steel QR's. I was shocked when I dropped them on the scale and they were 45.9 grams. The magnet test revealed there Ti. I'm building my son a set of wheels for his new bike and these should be perfect as he's 76 lbs. I'm actually only using the rear hub as I needed a lightweight convertable QR/15mm TA, so I've got the A2Z XCF 15 front hub. The pic with the two hubs on the scale are these two hubs. The single hub pics are the CM hubs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Circus Monkey hubs-img_4813_1.jpg  

    Circus Monkey hubs-img_4814_1.jpg  

    Circus Monkey hubs-img_4815_1.jpg  

    Circus Monkey hubs-img_4817_1.jpg  


  43. #93
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    What I did not like was that thread for disk bolts were very loose. Had to use plenty of loctite.

    Next time, even for a kids bike, I will get Novatecs, with 10/9 through axles..

  44. #94
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    What I did not like was that thread for disk bolts were very loose. Had to use plenty of loctite.

    Next time, even for a kids bike, I will get Novatecs, with 10/9 through axles..

  45. #95
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    Even after this thread, I built up a set with a crest front and an arch ex rear and the HDW3. I don't ride in a lot of muddy harsh conditions so hopefully the bearings will hold, but I will say the seals on the front are pretty much an afterthought and any crud they block will be incidental. The rear looks better as far as seals and it seems solid. The wheelset came out to about 700g front and 900g rear with DT db spokes so pretty happy about that. And with a set of project 321 anondized rims I gotta say they look nice and came out to around $600 a pair since I built them up myself.

    Circus Monkey hubs-426516_10200655236374142_398956080_n.jpg

  46. #96
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    Those are nice wheelsets. love the green

  47. #97
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  48. #98
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    Hdh 12x142. Weighed in at 255. I added more grease. Kinda screwed up the pic. Each pawl has 3 contact points.

  49. #99
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    Grease isn't suited for pawl mechanisms. It makes them stick.
    Use Oil.

  50. #100
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    how are your hubs holding up?...thinking of building some wheels with these..i figure these are better than those AEST hubs..i've heard a lot of trouble from those.

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