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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    Aah- got it. Specialized tried to do something similar with the introduction of 28mm QR end caps several years back. Thanks for bringing this up- we don't have any immediate plans, but if it catches on (and proves beneficial) then it's certainly something that we could do.

    Marc
    Yeah it looks like it might catch on as this seems to be the way almost all the new Rockshox offerings are going to be made. Their website is notoriously behind their actual current products so always double check for yourself. Not on this list, but I can assure everyone, my new Boost 29 140 RCT3 solo air is definitely torque milled:

    https://www.sram.com/rockshox/technologies/torque-caps

    First Ride: 2016 RockShox Lyrik - Pinkbike

    The Boost extender caps you are making, which are a very much appreciated product by the way, might need to be produced in two variants for each hub manufacturer, one with this "torque cap" 31mm dimension that RS is making and one with the standard size for other fork manufacturers.

    I'll galdly send in my p321 hub as a test mule in exchange for a set of these

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    Rick,

    The Kings are a little more involved, unfortunately, as adapting their hubs (front or rear) requires replacing the entire axle. Not that it can't be done, but we'll have to spend some more time and price it out before committing.
    Marc,
    This is Paul...the guy who's been talking to you about the FR440. About the King...I'm not sure if you're aware of this but on the disc side of the 12x142 King axle there is a lip onto which a steel end protector is clipped. If you do something like a DT end cap ala the 240/440 where it's clipped on w/ a rubber o-ring, it might be all that's needed as the axle will keep the whole thing together. So long as the frame contact portion is 19mm OD, the part that would fit over the King axle could be any OD so long as it doesn't obstruct the caliper, no?

  3. #103
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    Marc, any update for I9 hubs?

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  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhopton View Post
    Marc, any update for I9 hubs?
    Sorry for the delay- things got slowed down a bit with the transition to Wolf Tooth. We're getting close on those- the fronts are machined and at anodizing and the rears are being machined now. Probably 1-2 weeks and you can sign up for a stock alert now on the Wolf Tooth website!
    Last edited by Marc Lindarets; 06-10-2016 at 06:41 AM.

  5. #105
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    Keep up the good work Marc! I'm in the process of building a boost frame with "old" parts and the Boostinator was a very welcome find. Question though: I have a non EVO Hope Pro 2 front hub (100x15) I see on your site that this is not compatible with the Boostinator. Is this correct? Or did you mean for the non EVO rear hubs?

  6. #106
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    PlanB,

    Thanks for the shout-out! We've only tested the HF kits with Hope's Pro 2 EVO hubs- I believe that the non-EVOs had the same hub shell but that there were axle changes. I think that the only change in the fronts was a shift to stainless bearings (in which case the HF would work), but as we haven't tried the combination can't swear to it. I hope that helps!

    Marc

  7. #107
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    Hi Marc,
    Any updates on the Chris King hubs?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by kava72 View Post
    Hi Marc,
    Any updates on the Chris King hubs?
    Thanks for your interest. At the moment, we have no plans to pursue a Chris King model- their hubs don't lend themselves to a cost-effective solution. Sorry not to have better news,

    Marc

  9. #109
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    Can someone link me to a front spacer kit for 15x100 to 15x110 on ebay? I cant seem to find it. THanks in advance.
    Last edited by Averbuks; 08-11-2016 at 07:39 AM.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Averbuks View Post
    Can someone link me to a front spacer kit for 15x100 to 15x106 on ebay? I cant seem to find it. THanks in advance.
    106mm?

    Is that a typo?

    Never seen a 106mm fork...

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  11. #111
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    I meant 15x110

  12. #112
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    Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/252191498198

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  13. #113
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    So Ive got a question on the I9 conversions with dishing the wheel. I have a set of I9 32 hole standard jbend spoke hubs laced to NOX composite XCR 29 assymmetric carbon rims. Is my wheelset compatible with the conversion kit feom 142 to 148?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    So Ive got a question on the I9 conversions with dishing the wheel. I have a set of I9 32 hole standard jbend spoke hubs laced to NOX composite XCR 29 assymmetric carbon rims. Is my wheelset compatible with the conversion kit feom 142 to 148?
    As long as your wheelbuilder wasn't right on the margin spoke length wise, you're good to go- the 9TF and 9TR hubs will work with standalone Torch series hubs. I hope that helps,
    Marc

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    I went out on my first ride with the simple spacer kit from eBay while I await the dedicated end caps from Taurus mtb solutions.

    So 3mm spacer on either side and a 3mm spacer for the rotor.

    I could not notice a difference between shifting with this set up and on my previous 142x12 bike (everything the same - rear dérailleur, cassette, chain).

    Attachment 1037788
    Did you re-dish your wheel? Sorry for the novice question here is it correct to assuem that without doing so my cassette will be 3mm inboard? Meaning my chainline on my 1x11 will be even worse? Thanks in advance for the advice.

  16. #116
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    Boost 148 adapters

    So, I used these spacers and they're great however my crank is moved out ward affecting my chain line too much.
    My bike has a PF30 fitted with a wheels mfg PF30 to shimano outboard BB. What BB do I need to move my crank back in 3 mm ?


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  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    PlanB,

    Thanks for the shout-out! We've only tested the HF kits with Hope's Pro 2 EVO hubs- I believe that the non-EVOs had the same hub shell but that there were axle changes. I think that the only change in the fronts was a shift to stainless bearings (in which case the HF would work), but as we haven't tried the combination can't swear to it. I hope that helps!

    Marc
    What about Hope Pro 4 hubs? Is there a difference in the hubs so you can't use the pro 2 adapters?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMtnSlayer View Post
    FWIW I was able to get away with just 4 mm of rotor spacing with a Saint caliper on a pivot mach 6 C2. I was also able to re-dish the wheel mounted on the bike using just a standard caliper, a pencil and spoke wrench. I started by loosening the drive side spokes half a turn then tightening the non-drive side half a turn. The seat stays on the frame are symmetrical so I just continued to move the rim over a quarter turn at a time until the spread between the rim and seat stays was equal on both sides. I didn't have a spoke tension wrench to use so I just went on a quick ride and checked the spokes by hand. Lastly I used the pencil to mark any high spots and fine-tuned from there.

    If you want to do it in a truing stand just drop the wheel in the stand with the 6 mm axle spacer on the non-drive side and center the rim from there.
    When you dished your wheel did you do it for one on each side of the wheel or all one side then All the other ?


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  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by philreske8614 View Post
    So, I used these spacers and they're great however my crank is moved out ward affecting my chain line too much.
    My bike has a PF30 fitted with a wheels mfg PF30 to shimano outboard BB. What BB do I need to move my crank back in 3 mm ?


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    Phil,

    I'm probably biased, but if you have a compatible hub it might be less expensive to go to a Boostinator than replace your bottom bracket to correct your chainline. You'll get a stronger, stiffer wheel out of the deal and your pedals won't be offset either...

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluePitch View Post
    What about Hope Pro 4 hubs? Is there a difference in the hubs so you can't use the pro 2 adapters?
    BluePitch,

    The Boostinator HF and HR are in stock and now approved for use with Hope Pro 4 hubs: Boostinator ? wolftoothcomponents.com

  21. #121
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    Anyone use some of these Boost kits with Profile Elite hubs? Ive been trying to contact Profile about their own boost kits but they are being annoyingly quite about it.

  22. #122
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    I have the Boostinator on my dt350 hubs. Works great had to re dish wheels which might be a pia for people who don't do there own wheel truing. Took about 20mins to do both wheels. Like Marc states it gives the spokes a more even angle. No shifting issues in drive train either. Great solution for this new coming "standard". Thanks Marc and Lindarets.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    ...Great solution for this new coming "standard". Thanks Marc and Lindarets.
    Thanks Rgnspnr!

  24. #124
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    How much lateral adjustment does the average brake caliper have?

    Wondering if 142x12mm DT Swiss 240 hubs could somehow work in a Boost 148 rear end.

    I'm wondering if you could use:
    1) 2x3mm thick spacers, one on each side
    2) centerlock to 6-bolt adapter with a couple of thin Syntace rotor shims between adapter and rotor

    to get the rotor far enough out, and the brake far enough in, that they'd function.
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  25. #125
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    The idea of 3mm spacers on axle ends will work, only consideration is the hassle it creates when taking wheels on or off. Lining up the spacers as you try to install your wheel seems like a headache to me. That's why I went with the Boostinator. The end caps become part of the hub. They also look factory being anodized black. Also moving your cassette inboard is a potential for shifting issues. I have M7000 drivetrain on my bike with a 50mm chainline and it shifts flawlessly. Better than my M875 xt derailleur does.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    The idea of 3mm spacers on axle ends will work, only consideration is the hassle it creates when taking wheels on or off. Lining up the spacers as you try to install your wheel seems like a headache to me. That's why I went with the Boostinator. The end caps become part of the hub. They also look factory being anodized black. Also moving your cassette inboard is a potential for shifting issues. I have M7000 drivetrain on my bike with a 50mm chainline and it shifts flawlessly. Better than my M875 xt derailleur does.
    The Boostinator isn't compatible with my Centerlock hubs.
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  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    The Boostinator isn't compatible with my Centerlock hubs.
    Get 6 bolt adapters.

    That probably won't work for some reason, but you can run it on the front.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcl2u2 View Post
    Get 6 bolt adapters.
    I have them. Using them doesn't change the relative position of the rotor unless you take additional steps to move the rotor outwards.

    Maybe I'm not taking something into account, but 6 bolt adapters allow you to run a 6 bolt rotor on a 142x12 centerlock hub on a 142x12 frame. That's it.
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  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I have them. Using them doesn't change the relative position of the rotor unless you take additional steps to move the rotor outwards.

    Maybe I'm not taking something into account, but 6 bolt adapters allow you to run a 6 bolt rotor on a 142x12 centerlock hub on a 142x12 frame. That's it.
    Yeah I edited my post after thinking about that for a minute. I thought maybe you could add the Boostinator adaptor on top of the 6 bolt, but looks like the spline cap gets in the way.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcl2u2 View Post
    Yeah I edited my post after thinking about that for a minute. I thought maybe you could add the Boostinator adaptor on top of the 6 bolt, but looks like the spline cap gets in the way.
    Yeah. I'm thinking/hoping/praying that I can get enough from a bunch of shims and the amount lateral adjustment in the caliper to account for 3mm.

    This is all just a theoretical exercise; I don't own any Boost frames, just want to have this stuff handy in my traveling repair kit in case I decide to hop on a Boost bike at a demo or something.
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  31. #131
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    Also of note:

    The CL to ISO/6-bolt adapters that DT Swiss provides have much, much longer "bolts" than Alligator or similar equivalents.



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  32. #132
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    I would really love to see a CL solution.

    In addition to 6bolt adaptors, need a new lock ring with deeper threads I think...

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doingitright View Post
    I would really love to see a CL solution.

    In addition to 6bolt adaptors, need a new lock ring with deeper threads I think...
    Doingitright is correct- you would need an offset (by 6mm) Centerlock adapter and lockring. Unfortunately for the Centerlock fans in the crowd (myself included), we haven't seen the demand that would be required to tool up for a CL Boostinator kit.

    Like Rngspnr says, 3mm spacers on each side are a huge hassle when it comes time to remove and replace the rear wheel and already-marginal Shimano 11s chainlines are further compromised. We also can't endorse the use of our kit with threaded CL adapters- there are just too many pieces of the puzzle that we don't control to have the confidence to recommend their use in a safety-critical system.

    I wish that I had a better answer but the good news is that, especially with road disc exploding, DT 240s hold their value very well and when the time comes it should be no problem resell your hubs and/or wheels if in decent condition.

  34. #134
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    Yeah.

    My plan right now is to use the wheels in question on a gravel bike. 1450g DT Swiss 240 100x15/142x12 + ENVE XC wheels are "older" but they are still a damn nice wheelset. They are in great shape, but since building up another wheelset, they've become my "backup".
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  35. #135
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    Can anyone tell me why Kings are left out of up boosting with spacers? I can't seem to find spacers anywhere for them.

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailfreak View Post
    Can anyone tell me why Kings are left out of up boosting with spacers? I can't seem to find spacers anywhere for them.
    If you look back through this thread I think someone mentioned on a Chris King hub you need to change the axle also. Post#84

  37. #137
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    Can't find the thread you were talking about, but my user skills lack on this site.

  38. #138
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    I am in the same spot-trying to come up a good solution for a King rear hub. I know someone else mentioned this, but the King hubs have a steel cover/spacer that slips over the axle at the ends. It seems like all you would need to convert the King hub would be to machine a longer spacer cover that slips over the axle.

  39. #139
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    I almost think King has legal involved? I contacted defender and they don't make the spacers and would not say much else.

  40. #140
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    Good job! Wollf Tooth Front adapter for DT 350

    Purchased one of these adapters and have to say it looked like a DT Swiss OEM product. Put it on and dished the wheel.......just perfect.

  41. #141
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    ProfIle racing has been lame. They won't even respond to my inquiries about adaptors. They are really piss on me off..

  42. #142
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    That's a pisser about the King hubs. All they would have to is make a new axle and supply a NDS spacer. They could even go so far as to sell the spacer in whatever hub color you have.
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  43. #143
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    Looking for a 'help me not break my ass' (or more importantly, bike!) conversion thoughts... I'm glad MRP is making a caliper adapter to Boost for Centerlock rotors up front, but they're not making them for the rear. I'm entertaining questionable hacks myself for the rear centerlock wheel. From an engineering/materials standpoint is it likely to overstress the frame mounts (carbon) or bolts, if I add another IS disc adapter next to the normal one, side-by-side, with longer, stronger horizontal bolts tying both IS disc adapters together to the frame, to move the caliper inboard ~6mm? (Actually looks like the adapters are more like 8-10mm wide... might have to machine one down, unless the caliper bolt holes do have enough play to compensate).

    No one has found a way to make any version of Centerlock-to-6-bolt adapter work? (by piggybacking them similar to above, or other...?)

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodsy View Post
    ... I'm glad MRP is making a caliper adapter to Boost for Centerlock rotors up front, but they're not making them for the rear.
    I'm not sure this is accurate.
    I believe the MRP boost adapter is 6 bolt only -- NOT centerlock

  45. #145
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    Can someone explain if there are any issues with running the universal type adapters? Velofuse makes them in most configurations. The boostinator type end caps are better when removing the wheel because the spacer is the end cap and it stays in place. But when installed on an enduro bike are the universal type lower performing?

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    I'm not sure this is accurate.
    I believe the MRP boost adapter is 6 bolt only -- NOT centerlock
    Current kit yes, but CL Front kit announced on the way

  47. #147
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    is the chainline issue only a thing if you fit a boost crank, this moves the chainline out 3mm a non boost crank and 3mm end caps means the wheel is undishished , the disc is moved 3mm out with a spacer but chainline is the same as 142? non/yes?

    , but your derailleur may/maynot have enought reach?

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    How much lateral adjustment does the average brake caliper have?

    Wondering if 142x12mm DT Swiss 240 hubs could somehow work in a Boost 148 rear end.

    I'm wondering if you could use:
    1) 2x3mm thick spacers, one on each side
    2) centerlock to 6-bolt adapter with a couple of thin Syntace rotor shims between adapter and rotor

    to get the rotor far enough out, and the brake far enough in, that they'd function.
    I have done something similar with a DT 240s rear single speed hub, which is centerlock. I used two 3mm plastic washers from the hardware store, one on each end of the hub, then for the centerlock rotor I dug around in my LBS parts bin to find a very thin spacer (maybe 1mm thick) that fit over the centerlock splines. I sandwiched that spacer between the 6 bolt adapter and the hub. so instead of spacing out the rotor relative the the adapter, I spaced out the whole adapter/rotor assembly relative to the hub.
    Using that spacer I found that the adapter/rotor assembly only had to be moved outboard 1mm in order to have enough clearance for the brake caliper. The main issue is finding a centerlock lockring with the most amount of threads though; since those lockrings only have a few threads to start with, moving the rotor out 1mm also means 1mm less thread engagement for the lockring, which is a lot considering you only had about 3mm of thread engagement to start with.
    Whether this works at all would be highly dependent on your frame/caliper combo, too. For me this worked for a Trek Stache and XT M785 caliper.

  49. #149
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    Any solutions for Stans hubs?

  50. #150
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    still no update for chris king?

    has anyone tried the generic adapters for king hubs?
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  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by lifeis11 View Post
    still no update for chris king?

    has anyone tried the generic adapters for king hubs?
    I would really like to know if someone has purchased the kits sold on eBay (the ones with 3mm spacers) to be used on Chris King rear 142mm hubs... I'd hate to get rid of my CK wheels.

  52. #152
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    I use a problem solvers 6mm NDS spacer and 6mm rotor spacer with my king.

    Works just fine.

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    Great thread. I recently purchased a Top Fuel 9.8 (17MY) and I need to find away to convert my 12x142 / 15x100 240s and Enve over. They unfortunately are centerlock.

    Given that all the adapters are 6-bolt only for the rear, has anyone tried to do a centerlock to 6 bolt conversion, then using the hub adapters to make work? Anyone think that would be a bad way to go?

    I'd hate to see the 240 hubs go to waste...

    Thanks in advance!

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubdubinto View Post
    Great thread. I recently purchased a Top Fuel 9.8 (17MY) and I need to find away to convert my 12x142 / 15x100 240s and Enve over. They unfortunately are centerlock.

    Given that all the adapters are 6-bolt only for the rear, has anyone tried to do a centerlock to 6 bolt conversion, then using the hub adapters to make work? Anyone think that would be a bad way to go?

    I'd hate to see the 240 hubs go to waste...

    Thanks in advance!
    see post #148

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  55. #155
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    Hey ta88, thanks for the callout. Did you consider an actual conversion for centerlock to 6-bolt (using the below item) and getting a boost adapter (boostinator, mrp, etc.)? That's what I thought about using.

    DT Swiss Centerlock Adapter > Components > Brakes & Shifters > Rotor Bolts | Jenson USA

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubdubinto View Post
    Hey ta88, thanks for the callout. Did you consider an actual conversion for centerlock to 6-bolt (using the below item) and getting a boost adapter (boostinator, mrp, etc.)? That's what I thought about using.
    That doesn't fly, the DT CL to 6-bolt adapter is just a splined adapter with a lockring to hold the 6-bolt rotor. You can't space the rotor out with this. Plus, putting adapters on adapters sounds like a bad idea in general.

    We (MRP) are going to have a front Centerlock solution soon for Boost conversions, but rear conversions are a can of worms and not a product we're going to ever make.
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  57. #157
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    I am using a very similar CL to 6 bolt adapter. I only shimmed the adapter outward about 1mm. biggest issue was finding a locking with enough threads

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  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubdubinto View Post
    Great thread. I recently purchased a Top Fuel 9.8 (17MY) and I need to find away to convert my 12x142 / 15x100 240s and Enve over. They unfortunately are centerlock.

    Given that all the adapters are 6-bolt only for the rear, has anyone tried to do a centerlock to 6 bolt conversion, then using the hub adapters to make work? Anyone think that would be a bad way to go?

    I'd hate to see the 240 hubs go to waste...

    Thanks in advance!

    I've spaced out centerlock rear rotor by doing the following :
    1. Get a 2.5mm BB spacer, and fit it over the hub splines before putting on the rotor. Your CL rotor will now be spaced out by 2.5mm
    2. Get a machine shop to recess the outside of the centerlock rotor down by ~2.5mm. You will now be able to use your lockring, engaging all the threads.
    I wouldn't recommend going more than 2.5mm. Hope this helps!

  59. #159
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    Edit: All my questions were answered after carefully reading through the thread
    Last edited by griffsterb; 5 Days Ago at 12:03 PM.

  60. #160
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    I thought about machining down the centerlock rotor, because there is plenty of material to remove off the lip... but then you'd have to do that for every rotor you ever had on the wheel. better always have a spare special rotor on hand.

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    Thanks all!

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    I posted this in another thread. Re-posted for the people that asked about King hubs.

    ISO rear - They will never offer any sort of axle conversion. They do not want rotor spacers on their hubs.

    ISO front SD - They kept the bearing spacing the same for the boost hub. So you can swap their front boost hub axle into this hub and no rotor spacer will be required, just adjust the dish and you're good to go.

  63. #163
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    I posted this in another thread. Re-posted for the people that asked about King hubs.

    ISO rear - They will never offer any sort of axle conversion. They do not want rotor spacers on their hubs.

    ISO front SD - They kept the bearing spacing the same for the boost hub. So you can swap their front boost hub axle into this hub and no rotor spacer will be required, just adjust the dish and you're good to go.

    So, having owned their old Universal Disc hubs, you HAVE to use a disc spacer with those hubs. They could make a spacer that bolts on to the hub with 6 counter sunk bolts, and have another 6 threaded holes in the spacer for the disc bolts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    So, having owned their old Universal Disc hubs, you HAVE to use a disc spacer with those hubs. They could make a spacer that bolts on to the hub with 6 counter sunk bolts, and have another 6 threaded holes in the spacer for the disc bolts.
    Well, they COULD. But they WON'T. Although the design of the universal hubs makes the rotor issue a little easier, there is still the axle problem. Plus the market for such parts would be miniscule.

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