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  1. #26
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    My experience might not mean much to heavier riders (I'm 135lbs) but I have been using the MTB252 hub on my SS and it's been trouble-free. Spins really good, very quiet and the 48POE are really good for SS riding. I just built another wheel with a new MTB252, DT SWISS Aerolite spokes and Light-Bicycle 26" carbon rim. Makes a nice light wheel.

    Johnnydrz

  2. #27
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    New question here. Installing Shimano cassette on BHS MTB252 hub

    @One Pivot and @anyone who has used BikeHubStore MTB hubs, like @nbwallace

    Eventually I bought a pair of BHS hubs (MTB162, MTB252), 32 holes, red anodized.

    They seem quite good, and they weigh less than declared:

    - MTB162 (front): 140 g, 15 mm thru-axle version;
    - MTB252 (rear): 255 g, 142x12 mm thru-axle version.

    I had them laced to a couple of Stan's Crest 29 rims, with Sapim Polyax alloy nipples, and Sapim D-light spokes.

    I just have an issue with cassette installation.

    I tried to install a new Shimano XT 10 speed cassette (CS-M771-10) on the rear hub's freewheel body. Unfortunately, though, I can't tighten the cassette lock ring at the required torque.

    The cassette locking tool (a ParkTool FR-5) doen't engage firmly on the teeth of the lock ring. The tool interferes with a cylinder inside the freewheel body, and I can't push the tool down enough to make it firmly engaged.

    I didn't have such problems when installing the same cassette on an American Classic freewheel body...

    Do I need some extra spacer to install a Shimano 10 speed cassette on the MTB252 hub? Where should I put the spacer? Before the biggest sprocket? Or maybe between the last smallest sprocket and the lock ring?

    Thanks for your advice!

    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    I cant really speak for BHS's products, but he has told me that no, its not a "bitex".

    It is however, very very similar. The pawl spring setup on the BHS hubs is better than what bitex sells if you buy direct from bitex. The overall design is the same, the geometry and weight is the same too.. but its just a little different and maybe better.

    For comparisons sake, what ive said about bitex and my experience with them is applicable to BHS, but BHS is not 100% a bitex hub. Might sound weird and like semantics, but thats how a lot of asian sourced stuff goes. I bet the rotaz/chin haur/A2Z branded stuff has similar slight differences.

    I just pulled my axle caps off, and it looks like its a 14mm axle, just eye balling it. Its pretty thick too. with QR's, I never felt this hub flex even at 220lb.

    I have nothing to do with BHS, but I do think its a good product and one I like to endorse.

  3. #28
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    10 speed cassette usually need a 1mm spacer as the body is actually narrower than a 9 speed cassette.
    Origin 8 Scout 29
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    10 speed cassette usually need a 1mm spacer as the body is actually narrower than a 9 speed cassette.
    Thanks for your reply!

    How comes Shimano does not include that spacer in their package?

    Where should I insert that spacer? Before the lock ring?

    I'll go to my LBS, and hope I can find one.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    10 speed cassette usually need a 1mm spacer as the body is actually narrower than a 9 speed cassette.
    I have read something around on this topic.

    Isn't this true for road 10 speed cassettes only?

    Thanks again!

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by solitone View Post
    I have read something around on this topic.

    Isn't this true for road 10 speed cassettes only?

    Thanks again!
    Road and Mountain 10 speed cassettes are the exact same spacing, no difference at all with Shimano or SRAM cassettes. Not all hubs need this spacer but some do. Shimano hubs do not need it, so why would they include it with their cassette? My WTB hubs came with the spacer and you put it on first before the cassette.
    Origin 8 Scout 29
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  7. #32
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    Just had my rear A2Z XC hub crap out. The pawls and engagement points chewed each other up.
    There's slight distortion in the alloy around each spring loaded arm, similar to the one in the pic in the first post.

    I was 40min into a 3hr epic loop. Lucky I could coast back almost all the way home.
    Last edited by NordieBoy; 07-11-2014 at 12:07 AM.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by solitone View Post
    Yes, I think I'll go with those Bitex-like hubs. I've read lots of good comments on both Bitex road hubs and BHS.

    Plus, I have 15 and 142x12 mm thru-axles, and supposedly Rotaz hubs aren't available in those options.

    I'm just waiting for Brandon's answer to some questions I sent him regarding availability (front 32 holes unavailable?), and then I'll probably buy them.

    I'm thinking of lacing them to Stan's NoTubes ZTR Crest 29" rims and DT Competition spokes with alloy (?) nipples. It should result in a good weight, hopefully not too weak!
    This is clearly an oldish thread, but for truth's sake, brass nipples will outlast "alloy" READ: {aluminum} nipples due to the durability of the harder brass superceeding aluminum's softness, strengthwise. If you ride hard taking jumps, are obese, run 24 spoke nipples, are a strong accelerator you will break the aluminum eventually. Brass as a rule of thumb, is stronger. Decades later, many brass nippled wheels have stood the test of time and repeated use. Often, if one alu nipple breaks, the rest will follow. Hope this helps.

  9. #34
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    Re: A2Z hubs (Rotaz too?) Long Term Review

    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Just had my rear A2Z XC hub crap out. The pawls and engagement points chewed each other up.
    There's slight distortion in the alloy around each spring loaded arm, similar to the one in the pic in the first post.
    Replaced it with an A2Z downhill hub with 32 poe and a nice beefy pawl setup. Almost twice the weight of the XC hub, but looks like it'll last forever. The XC front hub is still running very smoothly.

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