I really enjoy the 29er chinese carbon rim thread but l didnt see anything for all mountain chinese wheels or rims. I'm looking for some 26in carbon all mountain rims that need to be wide, pretty light and strong to go on my Tracer2. Going through all the Asian carbon stores is big undertaking. That, and l dont fully understand everything about wheels. Are all the rims pretty much for xc if not can someone point me in the right direction
I was making a comment regarding the video of Shwalbe PROCORE. Did you measure his PSI? How do you KNOW it is 22 anyway? I don't doubt you personally, I watch a lot of Tour De France and all those riders keep bike info secret, or lie about their setup to throw off other competitors. Maybe Mt Bikers are genuine. Who knows.
Basically, I googled schwalbe PROCORE, watched the 2 minute video, made the comment a lot of rims may be destroyed. Watch the tire all folded up on a rock, then get back to me as to wether or not you would run your carbon fiber rims at that PSI. I wouldn't. I have to buy anything I break.
I believe that ENVY rims are a great product, hell, even built in Utah...that's great. But with the rash of cheap carbon rims hitting the market ENVY is going to have a hard time keeping those prices. Fact is there is really no way to tell if ENVY is even really any better than these cheaper rims...or even as good!? For the price I can buy a fleet of cheap Chinese carbon...or a single ENVY. I had my cheap Chinese rims built by some a**hole rode them fairly hard at Bootleg 4 times then got a Park spoke tension gauge in the mail so just checked the tension. At least 6 spokes on my rear wheel had ZERO tension and not a single spoke had nearly 1/2 the tension recommended. The front was similar. With all the hits the rims took they held together. I'm sold on cheap Chinese rims.
38's up in here, whoop whoop!!! Both 420g on the money. I'm going to lace these up, just like my other 33 wide's with my Hope Pro 2 Evo's with DT Super Comps and Aluminum nips.:cornut:
I have some of those 38mm LB rim otw also. Can you confirm the ERD . I'm building on to hope hubs also, but I'm reluctant to order spokes untill I know for sure! ( I've seen three differing offical LB figures for these rims ranging from 515 to 510) Thanks!
Yep, will do. I'm working now so I prob won't get them to my LBS until this weekend, but I'll def post them when they are done being built and I mount the tires.:thumbsup:
Just ordered some 26in, 35mm wide, hookless NEXTIE-BIKE rims. Went with the lighter version for the front wheel, and the AM version for the rear wheel.
Going to lace them to a BHS front hub, and my existing i9 torch rear hub.
Looking forward to the build and I will report in when I am finished.
Just ordered some 26in, 35mm wide, hookless NEXTIE-BIKE rims. Went with the lighter version for the front wheel, and the AM version for the rear wheel.
Going to lace them to a BHS front hub, and my existing i9 torch rear hub.
Looking forward to the build and I will report in when I am finished.
Trying to seat some Conti TK's on my 33mm wide LB rims. Just received in the AC 46mm tubeless valves, and I've got those all installed. Tires are on, but I'm finding that since the valve is essentially the exact same overall width as the center channel of the rim, the tire cannot "wrap around" the valve. Because of this, 98% of the tire sits in the center channel of the rim, but that last 2% is elevated up onto the ridge around the valve. Which means there's a small gap on both sides of the tire right next to the valve, not enabling me to blow air into the tire to get it up on the bead shelf.
No air leak from/through the valve or from my air compressor hose at 125psi. It's just these gaps near the valve where the tire bead can't wrap around it.
Very frustrated, have been trying to use my whole body practically to get a seal near the valve, but no dice. Air keeps leaking out.
Trying to seat some Conti TK's on my 33mm wide LB rims. Just received in the AC 46mm tubeless valves, and I've got those all installed. Tires are on, but I'm finding that since the valve is essentially the exact same overall width as the center channel of the rim, the tire cannot "wrap around" the valve. Because of this, 98% of the tire sits in the center channel of the rim, but that last 2% is elevated up onto the ridge around the valve. Which means there's a small gap on both sides of the tire right next to the valve, not enabling me to blow air into the tire to get it up on the bead shelf.
No air leak from/through the valve or from my air compressor hose at 125psi. It's just these gaps near the valve where the tire bead can't wrap around it.
Very frustrated, have been trying to use my whole body practically to get a seal near the valve, but no dice. Air keeps leaking out.
given that those aren't schwalbes (which are notoriously tight fitting), are you able to pull the tyre bead out of the centre channel and out onto the "shelf" closer to the sides of the rim?
if that is not possible, can you push one side out there before you mount the other side of the tyre on the rim? at least that would halve your leakage problem.
So I don't know what it about jumping online and *****ing about seating tires, but I just got the first tire to inflate and pop the beads up on the shelf. I used an old j-spoke to tuck under the bead and "pull" it off the valve on both sides. Then, I laid my whole forearm over the tire and pushed down really hard, have it a shot of air for 3 seconds and poof, it inflated right up.
I had fat Alberts on my last set of 33s, and they were MUCH tighter than these trail kings. I've read good things about the black chili design though. So here's crossing my fingers.
Thanks for the tips though everyone. You're invaluable. However, pulling the bead up onto the rim shelf by hand definitely would not have been possible.
Did you remove the valve core to get air in faster? Also the AC valves in side shape isn't conducive to inflating tires. WTB makes colored aluminum valves in two lengths that have the same kind of rubber cone as NoTubes valves. This seems to make the tire fit in the channel better and directs air into the tire.
Yes, absolutely I did. Removed that and used my air compressor attachment that's a little nozzle, fits perfectly inside the valve stem. I actually really like these AC valve design with the flared ends over the NoTubes/etc because it's practically impossible to overtighten the external nut and pull the valve loose of the rubber. They are awesome. I had all sorts of air leaks issues with the NoTubes version on my most recent set of 33's.
I love the AC's too, the big o-ring seals perfectly and the curved spacer on the top fits the rim profile and the nut is easy to get on nice and tight by hand. That's the only presta I'll use. I only wish they came in other colors. I like the red, but I'll be building up my new 38's all black and I'd like to get them in black, but oh well. Red will have to do.
OK, so now I truly do have a serious issue. I got both my tires mounted, Stan's thrown in, beads set, and inflated. Now to throw on my XX1 cassette. Wellllllll........I don't think this is right what LB put on my hub. The hub clearly says "For SRAM 11S", but the notch spacing isn't correct. Either that, or my XX1 cassette isn't correct (which doesn't seem to be the case, because all pics I can find online show the cassette has even spacing throughout the ring). The hub appears to have even spacing for like 90%, but then there's this one space where the notch is wider than all the rest. Can anyone just see from these pics which is wrong here: the hub driver or the cassette?
OK, so now I truly do have a serious issue. I got both my tires mounted, Stan's thrown in, beads set, and inflated. Now to throw on my XX1 cassette. Wellllllll........I don't think this is right what LB put on my hub. The hub clearly says "For SRAM 11S", but the notch spacing isn't correct. Either that, or my XX1 cassette isn't correct (which doesn't seem to be the case, because all pics I can find online show the cassette has even spacing throughout the ring). The hub appears to have even spacing for like 90%, but then there's this one space where the notch is wider than all the rest. Can anyone just see from these pics which is wrong here: the hub driver or the cassette?
See how the ridge is narrower right next to where the slot is wider? That should make it so there is no real difference and the cassette should press o to the splines fine. There will be a slight gap there but it's not on the pressure side so no worries. Why Novatec put that wider gap/narrower spline I have no idea.
What am I missing here? Are the notches and slots of the cassette not supposed to fit into the hub body perfectly? I'm worried to crank/torque down the cassette not having all these notches/slots line up perfectly....
Did u get the cassette to go on at all? If it goes on a little, try to tighten it. If it goes on easy when u tighten it, u should be good to go. But if it feels like it is binding or not going on easy when u tighten it, then I'd stop.
Don't worry about it. The extra gap caused by the narrower spline on the driver will be on the side that does not receive any pedaling torque. The cassette does not touch on any of the backsides of the splines when you apply the power.
Your cassette does not appear to be "keyed" so it won't matter. The shimano freehub's are keyed so that the cassette can only be put on in one way so the shift ramps of the loose cogs will align properly. The SRAM 11 spd stuff is all one piece so this is not an issue.
So after a rough and fun fall ride under the rain today, I cracked my rear rim (33mm undrilled clincher rim) while riding home on the concrete border of the bike path and there was a 1' gap due to road work and my rear wheel hit the corner pretty hard (my rear shock was also overly stiff due to a leaking negative air chamber). It cracked only on the left side, didn't pinched the tube (yay) and about 1/2" along a 20° angle, maybe 1mm edge along the crack. I was able to make it home without problem and the wheel seems fine to keep riding, but I'll check it properly later on.
Good news, I have a new hookless 33mm rim laying around from a warranty replacement (the rim plug failed on that same rim and I got LB to send me a new rim for it for $40 shipping), so I'll finally get to play around with hookless technology ! The damaged rim is most likely to be repaired and gonna keep it as a spare. I've been wondering what the heck I was gonna do with that spare hookless rim haha
33mm wide 26er, hookless, UD matte and 32H, with Yeti Turquoise decal
I received my rims after 16 days and had them built by a local builder with a good reputation. However, he gave me the stink eye about the poor quality of the rims, especially around the ERD measurement. I had them built with black Hope Pro2 EVO hubs, black DT spokes and silver nipples, and Hope floating rotors.
I had LB do the LB decal in Yeti turquoise and gave them the RBM code from the Yeti forum. As you can see, the rims are more green and the frame is more blue. Oh well, once the dust gets on the rims it won't matter. I used the 25 mm wide Gorilla tape, Stans sealant, and 44mm Stans road valves. My Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.3 UST tires mounted up with no problems. I was expecting to wrestle with them after reading some posts. I was really surprised at how beefy the tires look on the wider rim. I am a bit concerned about tire rub on the rear triangle but we'll see.
I had problems with the spacing of the front hub. The XTR brake caliper won't center on the rotor and rubs on the inner pad. For some reason, the Hope hub and rotor are not the same width as the old XTR wheelset. I ultimately put some Shimano 6 bolt spacers between the rotor and the hub. After that, the rivets (I don't know what else to call them) on the Hope floating disc rubbed on the XTR post mount. I filed it down a bit and ultimately got it to work.
I spent most of Sunday farting around with the brakes so no real ride report as of yet. The wheel builder did say he wants me to check in with him often so he can see how the wheelset is holding up.
Stink eye may be a bit too strong but he was dubious about the quality and long-term durability. As noted in this thread, for $170 each I like this rim over the $1k Enve no doubt.
Stink eye maybe a bit too strong but he was dubious about the quality and long-term durability. As noted in this thread, for $170 each I like this rim over the $1k Enve no doubt.
My LBS did the same to me when I brought mine in to build. Jerk offs. All they cared about was "what brand are these".... pretentious douche bags. I've never been back since. There will ALWAYS be a subset of consumers that, at their core, overpaying for a brand name is the only way you'll get a quality product. Those wheels look badass,
Plus a friend of a friend has blown up 3 enve rims. I was dubious as well from the start but they have proven themselves to me as an excellent choice. Fact is everything seems to be going carbon and prices will continue to be blown out of proportion until the market fully embraces the technology. I met a guy who just bought carbon rotors for his & his sons downhill bikes - FOR @ $600 !!!! EACH SET!!
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