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26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

337K views 2K replies 226 participants last post by  pb123hou 
#1 ·
I really enjoy the 29er chinese carbon rim thread but l didnt see anything for all mountain chinese wheels or rims. I'm looking for some 26in carbon all mountain rims that need to be wide, pretty light and strong to go on my Tracer2. Going through all the Asian carbon stores is big undertaking. That, and l dont fully understand everything about wheels. Are all the rims pretty much for xc if not can someone point me in the right direction
 
#1,617 ·
Stick derailleur cable in the spoke hole and push till you see it from the interior valve hole (if it seems like it should be there but you don't see it spin it and you'll see it).
Grab it with tweezers and pull it up out of the interior valve hole.
Slide a nipple on and use gravity and shaking to slide the nipple to the spoke hole.
Position the rim so gravity helps bring the nipple through the hole and push on either end of the cable to arch it inside and position the nipple to slide out the spoke hole.

I can lace a rim like this in an hour or so cuz it sometimes slides right into place or you sometimes have to jiggle it a while. Basically 1 to 2 minutes a nipple plus whatever time it takes you to figure out where to go next and lace the spoke through.

It would be hard to justify spending the money to have a wheel builder do this cuz it only saves a couple grams and good tape jobs rarely leak. If you're building your own wheels it's a cool little feature to add.
 
#1,620 ·
I just had to order some new 33mm hookless wheels due to bike theft. I'm curious though, are you guys still running a UST tire considering that there is no longer a bead seat?

I'm really curious to try out some Conti Trail King 2.2's.....but not sure if I should go the UST route or not based on the hookless....
 
#1,621 ·
No longer a bead seat? It still has a central channel and a shelf the bead pops up onto right (that's what I'd call the bead seat)? All that's changed is the lack of a hook at the top of the sidewall, which has been deemed unnecessary and weakening...right? On the 33mm and 35mm rims I've run Maxxis DH casing and Exo casing tires. Some of the Exo casings said "TR" some didn't.
 
#1,622 ·
Sorry, perhaps "seat" wasn't the right word. Ultimately, I just want to make sure that somehow somewhere I didn't miss where hookless rims are supposed to now use hookless tires or something. Just curious.

Sounds like standard UST tires should be fine.
 
#1,625 ·
LOL, I've been running tubeless since 06 and I've never run UST tires, just regular, (clincher) tires. UST tires are way heavier than it's regular counter part. The beads are the same, but UST use more rubber and they're not porous. Most tires nowadays, are tubeless ready though, still lighter than UST. I currently have 2 sets of 33 wide hookless wheels and a pair of 38 wide hookless on the way..
 
#1,627 ·
You don't need "UST" tires, which is a strict standard and they are very heavy and bulky, but if you ride at all aggressively I would strongly recommend only running some type of tubeless compatible tire (TCS, 2bliss, etc.) - I believe the difference is that with true UST the seal is so tight and the tires so thick that sealant is actually optional, but with all the other systems sealant is needed

I have tried running tires that are not compatible several times always with disastrous results!
 
#1,629 ·
A thicker casing is definitely a plus for aggressive riding. Whether that's UST, double ply DH, or "1& 1/2 ply" enduro style casings like Exo. I'm even starting to think Maxxis Exos are too skimpy. The LB rims have a pretty secure fit so any bead works well. It's more an issue of sidewall support at lowish pressures.
 
#1,630 ·
So let me get this straight. You're saying that clincher and UST tires can both be run tubeless on a hookless rim? The only structural difference is that UST tires are essentially a thicker (and, thus, heavier) design, enabling them to be run w/o sealant? And the UST tires have a thicker/stronger sidewall to prevent burps/blowouts?

I thought clincher tires had no bead, while UST tires did....which were needed to run tubeless. That's why I've run UST tires for the past couple years. My Fat Albert's definitely were very heavy, and it would be nice to run a lighter tire on the hookless setup. I wouldn't consider my riding highly aggressive by any means.
 
#1,631 ·
So let me get this straight. You're saying that clincher and UST tires can both be run tubeless on a hookless rim? The only structural difference is that UST tires are essentially a thicker (and, thus, heavier) design, enabling them to be run w/o sealant? And the UST tires have a thicker/stronger sidewall to prevent burps/blowouts?

Yes, except the burps part. Because the LB hookless rims are wide and have a really tight rim bed, they don't burp, regardless if the tire is regular or UST.

I thought clincher tires had no bead, while UST tires did....which were needed to run tubeless. That's why I've run UST tires for the past couple years. My Fat Albert's definitely were very heavy, and it would be nice to run a lighter tire on the hookless setup. I wouldn't consider my riding highly aggressive by any means.
Clincher tires do have a bead, folding or wire.

What's a Clincher Tire? | Road Bike Rider
 
#1,642 ·
LOL, custom graphics. They are my LB "CHENVY'S". I actually think they are better than ENVY's. They are lighter, wider and you can change a spoke or true a wheel on the trail, (ENVY nipples are not exposed so you have to take the tire off to make any spoke adjustments) and they are boatloads cheaper. I just like the ENVY graphics though.
 
#1,644 ·
Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

Here are my other observations:
The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape.

The conti full seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.
 
#1,646 ·
Just recently took delivery of a set of LB 26" 33mm wide hookless rims. So far I am questioning my purchase:

2 rides, 2 JRA "fatal" rear pinch flats. The first on a WTB wierwolf which sealed up with stans at a low psi and I was able to limp gingerly home. Today a Conti Mtn King, an hour and a half from home 100 yds into the descent and had to walk (turns out std tube valve stems are not long enough to work with the deep dish LB rims). But seriously, while I was going downhill I didn't hit anything hard. And I was running at 30psi.

I'm hoping the collective wisdom of MTBR can help me out, since I used you all to feel confident in the purchase...

Here are my other observations:
The WTB tires were almost impossible to mount. And while they sealed right up with a pump, they were very difficult to get the bead to slide up onto the rim shoulder and seat against the rim wall. Requiring several inflate/deflate cycles, lotsa soap and lots of working on it. This is with 1 wrap of gorilla tape.

The conti full seated at 65 psi, but required a compressor to do so.

You need to buy the longer "road" tubeless valve stems and then make sure your "backup" tubes are long valved as well.
Im a little confused, are you running tubeless or with tubes? You said you got a pinch flat but you are using stans? If you are running tubes, get rid of them and you can't get pinch flats. If you are talking about cuts in your tire, you must be riding in some sharp rock gardens. If that's the case, that's not the rims fault, it's the tire. 30lbs is kind of high for a tubeless setup. A little less pressure might help the tire conform around a sharp rock unstead of puncturing a tire carcass that has higher pressure. Also Lelandjt is right. Use Stans tape, it's much thinner and lighter than gorilla tape and it makes the tire easier to install. But I use the narrower 12mm tape that only covers the spoke channel, it makes tire installs even easier since the tape doesn't ride up the sides above the channel. I've had a few tires get punctures in sharp rock gardens at places like "follow me" and "Bullet" at Mammoth bike park, but that's just part of the game, it happens. I did get the tires to eventually seal, but it took some time. I also carry a 2oz bottle of Stan's with me and a valve core removal tool in case I need to add some in on the trail in cases like yours.
 
#1,645 ·
On my 33mm DH rims I'm using standard 35mm NoTubes valves with no problems getting a pump or air chuck on for the last year and a half but perhaps I've just gotten lucky and haven't encountered a pump that wants to slide farther on.
Pinch flats are a function of the tire, pressure, and impact. Radical changes in rim width could have an effect but a 26mm rim is pretty standard. Use a burlier casing, more pressure, or hit stuff less hard. Gorilla tape is pretty thick (and heavy). Rewrap those rims with 25mm NoTubes tape to save weight and make tire changes easier.
 
#1,648 ·
I repair punctured tires by cleaning, applying a standard style tube patch, putting a tube in for half an hour to press the patch on, then putting the valve and sealant back in. A puncture right in the middle of the tire means you need a burlier casing for your rocks and speeds. I did that at the Keystone enduro. A puncture from a snakebite situation (lower sidewall or along the outer row of knobs means you need either a burlier casing or more pressure and you should count yourself lucky that the impact, while enough to cut the tire, wasn't quite enough to crack the rim. I cracked a rim at the Crested Butte enduro trying to run a little less pressure than normal.
 
#1,649 ·
I am no carbon fan, but it seems like you need to read Derby website. A lot of good info. I don't even own carbon rims and I know a) you need long valve stems so you don't hose yourself. Long rim valves and spare tube. B) small rim gouges and cracks don't seem to ruin the integrity of cheaper carbon rims. C) if you use lighter tires, they get cut in rocks, Conti does not have the best reputation on MTBR as a LONG LASTING tire. If I were riding a lot of rocks (I do), I would use a tire with proper sidewalls (I do, and unfortunately for me they weigh more). If you read DERBY info, you will be bummed you waited until all of these problems. My opinion, is that you will enjoy tubeless better, once you are dialed. I too was a late adopter, and I am very happy. Oh, those tips about Stan's tape above make sense too. I used Stan's tape from the get go, so I wouldn't know about Gorilla tape (seems silly to use Gorilla tape, when I can buy purpose made rim tape).
 
#1,651 ·
Make sure you are certain of your pressure by using a digit gauge and using it frequently to account for leaks and changes in temperature. Gradually drop pressure until you hear your rims occasionally touching the ground. You'll get a feel for what pressure you can get away with depending on tire and terrain. I run 4psi less in the front because I hit that wheel less hard. 30 front, 34 rear is a good starting point.
 
#1,653 ·
Yea, I've had the opposite experience. When I rode skinnier rims, I had tire roll, burping and dings in my rims. I had to run higher pressures to prevent the tire from squirming and burping, but then I lost traction and it was sketchy. Now with wide carbon rims, I run less pressure, I have more traction and no squirming or burping, they are lighter, stiffer and stay true. All win win for me. And that procore system defeats the purpose of running tubless. It just adds weight and complexity. I think a better internal rim shape like the Stans Hugo 52 would be a better idea than the procore system. If that rim was carbon and 35-40 wide, it would be awesome.

Hugo 52
 
#1,654 ·
I think if I were Schwalbe, I would invest in a rim company, because average people are going to destroy rims with that system (procore), mostly by side load, tire squirm rim hits. There are a lot of average people. I haven't tried it, so maybe I'm wrong. But I don't think I'm wrong.
 
#1,656 ·
I was talking about the PROCORE video of tire at 12 PSI, folding over. A lot of average riders run 15 to 20 psi, and don't take the best line to avoid rocks. I think Sam Hill runs PSI pressure for racing, not comfort. I think Sam Hill takes better lines than the average rider. Most people want a few seasons out of a rim. Sam Hill needs a rim to last 10 minutes or a season.
 
#1,658 · (Edited)
I was making a comment regarding the video of Shwalbe PROCORE. Did you measure his PSI? How do you KNOW it is 22 anyway? I don't doubt you personally, I watch a lot of Tour De France and all those riders keep bike info secret, or lie about their setup to throw off other competitors. Maybe Mt Bikers are genuine. Who knows.
 
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