I really enjoy the 29er chinese carbon rim thread but l didnt see anything for all mountain chinese wheels or rims. I'm looking for some 26in carbon all mountain rims that need to be wide, pretty light and strong to go on my Tracer2. Going through all the Asian carbon stores is big undertaking. That, and l dont fully understand everything about wheels. Are all the rims pretty much for xc if not can someone point me in the right direction
I just paid the invoice for shipping the replacement rim ($44.51 USD), so I'll be reporting in a few weeks when I receive the hookless rim. In the meanwhile I'll try to patch my current rim and probably tape over the plug on the other rim when I'll do my tubeless setup for the new tires, just in case the plug decides to loosen up to.
The ERD on the 33 wide 26" rim should be 518. My spoke length for Hope Pro 2 EVO's and 33 hole 3 cross was 251 if my memory is correct. It was the same for 2 sets of wheels too.
Hi guys,
I made a mistake with the lacing (I am still a beginner at building). 2x laced at first but then repeated with a 3x lace. My rear has 14mm nipples. My front has 12mm nipples. Both are built now. Perfectly true and the tension is nicely balanced (checked with a Park TM-1).
Thanks for all the responses and apologies for my n00b mistake
For spokes lengths, the DT Swiss calculator was spot on. 254mm, 255mm and 256mm for my DT Swiss 350 15mm/12x142mm hubs.
Use Gorilla Tape for the rim tape. Been using it for more than 2 years without any trouble.
My Hans Dampf Evo tires sealed without sealant. Tire mounting was HORRENDOUS - my fingers still hurt from mounting the HD last night.
Today I will mount the Big Betty 2.4 FR Evo on the front - it is much tighter than the HD on my puny 21mm DTS rims. I can only imagine how nasty it will be to mount it. Any tips?
My Hans Dampf Evo tires sealed without sealant. Tire mounting was HORRENDOUS - my fingers still hurt from mounting the HD last night.
Today I will mount the Big Betty 2.4 FR Evo on the front - it is much tighter than the HD on my puny 21mm DTS rims. I can only imagine how nasty it will be to mount it. Any tips?
I have the same wheels & tire combo - these are the most difficult rims to mount tires I have ever used - this makes sense since they are very wide and deep - a good, quality pair of plastic tire levers are a worthy investment. Also, check out the Stan's website for tips on tire mounting technique - it is easier to get the tire on/off when the opposite side is not yet fully seated
As previously mentioned, the nice part is once the tire is on, it is ON! I have never burped these
LOL, I thought it might be a spoke cross issue. That's what I asked earlier. As far as tips for getting the tight tire on, try setting it in the sun for a while. That softens it up and expands it a little. Don't put the rim in the sun though, just the tire. Then some elbow grease with the tire irons. It ain't easy, but it's a nice tight seal when u r done.:thumbsup:
I agree with lelandjt too on the tape. I use Stan's 21mm wide.
Well, I am from Egypt. It's expensive to buy special parts and have them shipped to Egypt. Till then, Gorilla works fine for me and the 30g is hardly a penalty.
Thanks for the tip. Both wheels up and running. First ride tomorrow! Can't bloody wait!
They can build you a set with any rims they offer, even if they show rim only option. Just email them.
From what I heard, build quality isn't impressive (considering the use of carbon rims as being a luxury and not just a standard build), so you'd better build them up yourself or have a local experienced wheelbuilder do it for you. Their spokes are great, but I'm concerned about the lengths they use that can be on the very short side or too long.
Yea, it happens. I had it happen to my rear a few months ago too, but the good thing is they warrantied it without too much problem. They replaced it with a hookless model too so I think the sidewalls are a little stronger now.
So im really torn on if ill build up my replacement rim or just try to sell it. Loved these while i rode them but just not sure if i can trust them again after breaking them on our beginner trail (cool-down lap) in such a nothing incident. Cost to rebuild with flows $300. Relace replacement $130. Plus loss of bling and addition of weight. Thoughts???
I cracked my rear within a month of getting them (I had the older "wide" AM version). I was even very careful about my pressures, keeping it over 30 psi, also had a pretty stout tire (DHF 2.5). My front is still going strong after over two years, no issues. My opinion is that that aggressive riders will eventually damage a rear carbon rim. I switched to a Flow EX rear and haven't looked back. The weight savings is just not worth it if it leaves you stranded in a remote location on a huge ride.
Not sure how replacing your rim with a Flow Ex is $300. The rim goes for about $70, spokes should be about $30, learn to build it yourself (maybe $12 for an online ebook) and another $20 for a local, reputable builder to check your work.
Not sure how replacing your rim with a Flow Ex is $300. The rim goes for about $70, spokes should be about $30, learn to build it yourself (maybe $12 for an online ebook) and another $20 for a local, reputable builder to check your work.
Sclyde,
I agree with you about not everyone wanting/able to build their own wheels. I am horrible reading directions, bought an online resource, built laced my wheels in about 40min each (I am not mechanically inclined) and brought a case of beer over to a friend for final adjustments.
My wheel build came in less than $500 for Hope hubs and Sapim spokes. I have three children, everything bike related needs to be done cheap.
Also, I believe the guy only wanted to replace one wheel.
The $300 was for two flow ex rims, blue alloy nipples, wheel smith db spokes, stans tape and labor. I have 3 kids too and can relate to the need for do-it-yourself thinking that comes with it, but there are some things I still leave up to my lbs.
If you normally run Super Gravity tires, you can go for normal tires without worrying about rock strikes etc. So if you run normal tires just fine, the ProCore system is not for you.
My front rim plug also failed, I emailed LB about it and it's going to their engineers. Should have a reply in the next days regarding replacement (rims were delivered a week short from 12 months now). Otherwise the wheels have been flawless and makes the bike awesome.
That is absolutely nuts. I am quite sure I don't have the patience for that (no rubik's cube or little ball rolling thru the maze games for me either). By the way... aluminum & brass are non-ferrous, magnet won't work.
That is absolutely nuts. I am quite sure I don't have the patience for that (no rubik's cube or little ball rolling thru the maze games for me either). By the way... aluminum & brass are non-ferrous, magnet won't work.
There a little steel doohickey they make that threads into the nipple for this purpose. However, for whatever reason, a magnet will help move an AL nipple in the rim. I had to do this when I dropped a couple into the spoke hole. Not enough to pull it out, but enough to hold it still so I could get it aligned with the valve hole and drop it out. Shouldn't work, but it did. Must be a little iron in the alloy.
Hmmmm..... Actually after some thought, if you were to fish some heavy fishing line through the spoke hole to the valve hole and thru the nipple you could fish it in then just clip the line leaving a small piece of line in the wheel which could likely be retrieved if so desired. That wouldn't be sooooo crazy I recon.
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