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  1. #876
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    Good job! nice

    Quote Originally Posted by raschaa View Post
    Hey Folks,

    just a quick thank you for all the information here...
    here's my front wheel, 24hole (367g), Sapim CX-Ray straight pull, recycled SunRingle Charger Hubs.

    i was planing on doing the same thing did you build the rear as well

  2. #877
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    I just finished building up my Light-Bicycle AM rims. I asked for a 385g front and 400g rear rim. They were 383 & 406 which is impressively close. I skimped $$$ compared to bladed spokes and went with my normal DT Competition spokes and alloy nips (185g, 10g per 32). These are for a 20mm/142mm bike so I used my standard Atomlab Pimplite/DT 240 hub combo (177g, 240g). 1596g for $770 (hubs & spokes at near wholesale and no labor charge so $900-$1000 retail as a wheelset). They drop just over 1/2lb from my Hope/Flow EX wheelset that I sold for $400*.

    *Was that a good deal for my neighbor? They were in new condition and I guessed that would be a fair price for both of us.
    Keep the Country country.

  3. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by shade13 View Post
    i was planing on doing the same thing did you build the rear as well
    Yo... rear is Sapim Race/CX-Ray


  4. #879
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    very very nice ,,,could i borrow spoke length you ware using ? for front and rear

  5. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by shade13 View Post
    very very nice ,,,could i borrow spoke length you ware using ? for front and rear
    sure! but let me tell you, calculating straight-pull spokes is a PITA. took me roundabout 8 hours til I was confident enough to order the spokes (CX-Ray are NOT cheap^^). there is no real mathematical formula to get them exactly right because the position of the spoke heads is not on a "classic" determined flange circumference.

    I used "Spokomat" (http://radtechnik.dyndns.org/spokomat.html#), Site is in German but the prog can be switched to english. It's really excellent, but advanced^^. The programmer/biker had some good tips on how to calculate straight-pull. In the end I started with the original Charger specs (ERD, hub geo measured) and iterated in the software til I got the original spoke lengths (with straight-pull you calculate with 2.5 crossing^^). then switched to the ERD I had measured of the carbon rims. You would have to check yours first anyways. I recycled the longest front spokes for rear nondrive side. rest then CX-Ray...

    will get the spoke lengths to you this evening or tomorrow morning (+1 GMT) cause I am at work now...

  6. #881
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    Hey,

    Original ChargerPro specs:
    ERD(measured): 533
    Spokelengths (as stated by SunRingle Support):
    Front 265/266
    Rear 265/263

    after a lot of brainstorming I got the following:
    LB standard rim (362g) ERD 539
    LB heavier rim (402g) ERD 540

    Spokes:

    Front 267.3@1300N 268.8@800N
    Rear 268.6@750N 266.5@1200N

    I took the original 266 from front right to rear right (thinner spokes won't work here because of the tension needed for a stable build) and decided to take 2 20pc. packs of 268 CX-Ray (with nipples) and would have 4 backup spokes. Ordered another 20 original Sapim 14mm polyax nipples in black for the "old" spokes and a few backup.

    Build was actually quite easy, dropped all the nipples in a cup of linseed oil to lubricate during tensioning and afterward the oil acts as threadlock. hit the tensions I wanted spot on with very little fluctuation... spoke lengths filled the nipples nicely

    good luck
    Last edited by raschaa; 02-06-2013 at 09:21 AM.

  7. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    I just finished building up my Light-Bicycle AM rims. I asked for a 385g front and 400g rear rim. They were 383 & 406 which is impressively close. I skimped $$$ compared to bladed spokes and went with my normal DT Competition spokes and alloy nips (185g, 10g per 32). These are for a 20mm/142mm bike so I used my standard Atomlab Pimplite/DT 240 hub combo (177g, 240g). 1596g for $770 (hubs & spokes at near wholesale and no labor charge so $900-$1000 retail as a wheelset). They drop just over 1/2lb from my Hope/Flow EX wheelset that I sold for $400*.

    *Was that a good deal for my neighbor? They were in new condition and I guessed that would be a fair price for both of us.
    nice, I've got a pair of rims sitting in my office waiting to be weighed and built up! I asked for 400g rims, building up around DT 240s front and rear. debating spending the cash on Sapim CX Rays (seem to be half the price of DT Aeroblades) or just doing DT Comps. anyone know the weight diff per wheel? 25-50g I'm guessing. also debating allow versus brass nips. the thread with the corroded nips on Enve rims has me second guessing alloy. what's the weight penalty for brass nips?

  8. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    Debating brass nips. the thread with the corroded nips on Enve rims has me second guessing alloy. what's the weight penalty for brass nips?
    Actually after initially lacing and weighing with alloy nips I decided on brass and swapped them out before tensioning it all up. I could see that the spokes weren't gonna extend up to the top of the nipples and I've broken a few alloy nips when laced with spokes this length, just above the top of the spoke right at the nipple's mushroom. If the spokes were long enough to thread right to the end of the nipple I was gonna keep the alloy but that extra few mm of spoke length kind of offsets the weight difference. The weight difference for 32 nips was 20g. I did it because these rims allow high spoke tension which I wanted to take advantage of. I've only broken a few alloy nips over 20 years of riding but those wheels all had less tension than these and I just didn't want to have to worry about it. If your rims are set up with tubeless tape changing a broken nipple is a real pain.
    Last edited by Lelandjt; 02-06-2013 at 10:11 PM.
    Keep the Country country.

  9. #884
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    ... debating spending the cash on Sapim CX Rays (seem to be half the price of DT Aeroblades) or just doing DT Comps. anyone know the weight diff per wheel? 25-50g I'm guessing. also debating allow versus brass nips. the thread with the corroded nips on Enve rims has me second guessing alloy. what's the weight penalty for brass nips?
    as a "rule of thumb" you save 1.1g per spoke CX-Ray vs. 2-1.8-2, 64pc. 14mm alloy nips ca. 40g saved vs. brass. I see no reason to use brass nips if the spoke length is correct, which it should be in any case. Sapim and DT alloy nips are made of anodized 7075 T6 Alu. drop them in a cup of linseed oil before building (ok, you get oily fingers and rims^^) but that will help during tensioning, acts as a light threadlock and protects the contact between spoke and nipple at the threads where you "could" get some contact corrosion because of differing materials. DT prolock nips are a pita because they distort tensioning feel and make re-truing more difficult than necessary. Would recommend 14mm nips because the inner rim walls are quite thick. been using Sapim polyax for 10 years in german rain, snow, salt, never had corrosion even after 3-4 years.... btw, tensile strength of 7075 alu is above that of brass^^ I have no idea what kind of nips those enve were and what happened to them, but they look like raw alu immersed in sea water for ages...

    notubes rimstrip is supposedly made by TESA, a 50m roll of Tesa strapping tape is enough for about 25 rims, removes residue free and costs ~10euros here in germany, so thats a non issue in my eyes...

    Oh, and you HAVE to have a top notch perfect fitting spokewrench...
    justmy2

  10. #885
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    I totally agree with Lelandjt. Lightweight race equipment is meant to be raced, and generally does not have a very long life. Alloy nipples are a perfect example of this- there is a benefit to reducing rotating mass at the cost of longevity on race day. Is that appropriate for someone who burns a wheelset every season? Probably. Is it appropriate for a dedicated hobbyist who wants the most from his equipment? Probably not... In nearly 30 years of cycling as my number one activity, I've maintained all sorts of wheelsets. I can say that in my experience, wheels with aluminum nipples need more frequent tensioning, and show wear on the nipple seats, threads, and wrench flats. I favor brass for strength and durability, and would prefer to get two or three seasons out of a wheelset if possible!

    Here, elasticity and plasticity are better with brass than aluminum- it's not all about tensile strength.
    Go out and ride your bike


  11. #886
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    for all of you who wondered if this carbon rims any good for DH.....

    here is, me and my friend Dan riding ours turners DHR's with this carbon rims on both our bikes.

    I Love it Video - Pinkbike


    and here are some photos of my DHR

    Yossi_Sarusi's Turner - Yossi_Sarusi's Bike Check - Vital MTB

  12. #887
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    [QUOTE=saruti;10156144]for all of you who wondered if this carbon rims any good for DH.....

    here is, me and my friend Dan riding ours turners DHR's with this carbon rims on both our bikes.

    I Love it Video - Pinkbike


    and here are some photos of my DHR

    Nice work...got me wanting to go out & get a new DH bike...

  13. #888
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    That's dope! Love the flow bike is hot in the tennis ball yellow. I have a set of these rims on my Stumpy evo but after seeing you rock them on your dh bike I may have to throw them on my Dh rig.

  14. #889
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    Have here anybody expiriences with the Nancy Wheels and Onza Tires?
    Tried to mount an Onza Canis with the Tesa YellowTape but failed. Never had this before. I ride Tubeless since Years and never had problems like now.
    The Tire (Onza Canis 2.25FR) absolutely not pops in its correct seat.
    Tried it with soapy water, with and without milk, sqeezed and massaged The Tire while inflating and many more tricks which were succesfull The last times.
    But nothing worked here?
    Is here the last possibilty the Bontystrip?
    Or have somebody another Tricks or hints?

  15. #890
    yet another stupid german
    Reputation: raschaa's Avatar
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    I have Onza Greina 2,25 120tpi up front and Ibex 2,25 in back. Both were no problem with Stans tape....

  16. #891
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    Managed to get my 3k matt finish rim to delaminate yesterday .
    Pics:
    pinkbike.com/photo/9219678/
    pinkbike.com/photo/9219682/

    Not running silly tyre pressure, or hitting rocks/silly terrain.
    Happened on a high speed loamy corner, 35PSI in a 2.4 Nobby Nic, heard a crack and started loosing tyre pressure.
    Delaminated on the 3k weave at the edge of the bead, and leaked sealant through the weave!
    Won't seal tubeless now on anything higher than 10PSI .
    Time to speak to Nancy....

    Scar

  17. #892
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterXT View Post
    Have here anybody expiriences with the Nancy Wheels and Onza Tires?
    Tried to mount an Onza Canis with the Tesa YellowTape but failed. Never had this before. I ride Tubeless since Years and never had problems like now.
    The Tire (Onza Canis 2.25FR) absolutely not pops in its correct seat.
    Tried it with soapy water, with and without milk, sqeezed and massaged The Tire while inflating and many more tricks which were succesfull The last times.
    But nothing worked here?
    Is here the last possibilty the Bontystrip?
    Or have somebody another Tricks or hints?
    I swapped some Conti MKII 2.4"s from Flow rims where they could sometimes be seated with a floor pump and instantly seated with a compressor to these LB rims. The shape of the rim channel isn't as good and they weren't inflating (high capacity compressor at 115psi) so I had to remove the valve core to increase air flow. That did it and they seated and sealed right up. No air loss since. So they don't mount tubeless quite as easily as Notubes or UST rims but still better than some.
    Keep the Country country.

  18. #893
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    @Raschaa: exactly my Fall and Spring combination which i ride actually on a Flow. When it becomes dryer i would like to ride the Ibex in front and the Canis in rear on the LB-Rims.

    @lelandjt: yes, i removed the valve Core and i have here in the Shop a Big compressor with enough power.

    Next week i start the next try with two layers of DuctTape. Maybe this is enough.

  19. #894
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by scar4me View Post
    Managed to get my 3k matt finish rim to delaminate yesterday .
    Scar
    That sucks! It looks like the 3k layer is coming up in the pics, but it's gotta be straight through if you lost air and sealant. If warranty doesn't pan out, I would try working some polyester epoxy into the split and sticking to XC... Bummer, dude!
    Go out and ride your bike


  20. #895
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    yo, bummer4sure, keep us posted on how LB treat you...

  21. #896
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    Finally i got it!
    Put two layers of ole Tesa DuctTape in the rim (i cut it a little bit wider, about 27mm), used the AirPort direct on the compressor and filled direct milk in the tire.
    And it worked!

    Thanks for all tipps!

  22. #897
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    My rear wheel came apart in two places (looks a lot like scar's pic above)
    Been 10 days and have sent 3 emails with pics to Nancy, Brian, support and no effing response.

  23. #898
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Stu View Post
    My rear wheel came apart in two places (looks a lot like scar's pic above)
    Been 10 days and have sent 3 emails with pics to Nancy, Brian, support and no effing response.
    Chinese New Year. They should be back to work any day now.

  24. #899
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    Starting to see more issues with these wheels. They have improved the manufacturing process for their 29er and 650b wheels, but have not yet done this for the 26" wheels. Brian has said they will probably make the change at some point. I am hoping sooner rather than later as I have been holding off buying a set until the new manufacturing process starts.

  25. #900
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar4me View Post
    Managed to get my 3k matt finish rim to delaminate yesterday .
    Pics:
    pinkbike.com/photo/9219678/
    pinkbike.com/photo/9219682/

    Not running silly tyre pressure, or hitting rocks/silly terrain.
    Happened on a high speed loamy corner, 35PSI in a 2.4 Nobby Nic, heard a crack and started loosing tyre pressure.
    Delaminated on the 3k weave at the edge of the bead, and leaked sealant through the weave!
    Won't seal tubeless now on anything higher than 10PSI .
    Time to speak to Nancy....

    Scar
    Not trying to assign any blame here, but that is a pretty high pressure for a tubeless tire of that size. Might want to think about dialing it down a bit in future.

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