Page 34 of 64 FirstFirst ... 24 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 44 ... LastLast
Results 826 to 850 of 1593
  1. #826
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    339
    Hey Geo,
    What did you use rim strip or just tape?

  2. #827
    Greystoke
    Reputation: geo025's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    221
    Quote Originally Posted by Darkstar187 View Post
    Hey Geo,
    What did you use rim strip or just tape?
    Just Gorilla tape , I'm running with tubes at present, I may get back into tubeless after our holiday break.

  3. #828
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    339
    Ok cool, that's what I'm running tubeless it was kind of pain to mount my Hans dampf I lots of soapy water and a compressor to get them mounted up.

  4. #829
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Wow - OK, so I've spent the better part of this entire week reading these 34 pages for these carbon rims (on a personal note, reading through threads would be 100x easier if people got rid of their stupid massive signatures). I even emailed Nancy myself inquiring about certain items. It seems like some customers are more than happy with the wheels, while others have had theirs break, and others have been completely cold-shouldered by customer service warranty/return issues. What's the feeling on these wheels? They seem a bit hit-and-miss, and I read numerous posts where people have ordered theirs custom done with special weighting and thickness and "burlier" buildup. The spec sheet Nancy sent me is a 30mm wide rim with a 25.8mm inner channel, 22mm height, and tubeless tire compatible.

    Is this the latest onthese wheels? For those who have been running these since May or June, how have they been holding up?

  5. #830
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thuren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    754
    Wheels are awesome!

    I see it as very simple... Carbon does not bend, it breaks. Think of it like fiberglass.

    If you regularly dent your aluminum rims, you should stick with aluminum, or increase your tire pressures and go with carbon.
    Bend, Oregon

  6. #831
    Paper or plastic?
    Reputation: zorg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    7,801
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Wow - OK, so I've spent the better part of this entire week reading these 34 pages for these carbon rims (on a personal note, reading through threads would be 100x easier if people got rid of their stupid massive signatures). I even emailed Nancy myself inquiring about certain items. It seems like some customers are more than happy with the wheels, while others have had theirs break, and others have been completely cold-shouldered by customer service warranty/return issues. What's the feeling on these wheels? They seem a bit hit-and-miss, and I read numerous posts where people have ordered theirs custom done with special weighting and thickness and "burlier" buildup. The spec sheet Nancy sent me is a 30mm wide rim with a 25.8mm inner channel, 22mm height, and tubeless tire compatible.

    Is this the latest onthese wheels? For those who have been running these since May or June, how have they been holding up?
    Been rolling on them since May. They've been in plenty of rocky areas and are holding up well. I mounted them tubeless with the Bontrager rim strip. Can't complain. My buddy blew one up by overinflating it way above the recommended max. I am very satisfied with my purchase.
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  7. #832
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    Wheels are awesome!

    I see it as very simple... Carbon does not bend, it breaks. Think of it like fiberglass.

    If you regularly dent your aluminum rims, you should stick with aluminum, or increase your tire pressures and go with carbon.
    I'm running Easton Havocs with their hubs/spokes and Schwalbe 2.4 UST Fat Alberts. If I went with carbon rims and CK hubs, it seems like the wight savings for me would be negligible, maybe a hundred grams. I guess I could always swap out hubs later on though for further reductions. I think I'm gonna put in an order for the UD weave since it's the strongest. Good discussion guys - I really like the option of buying straight from the mftr.

    p.s. very jealous you're in Bend . My aunt/uncle moved there 4 years ago, and I have been desperately trying to find work there so I can move. Love that Deschutes River trail.

  8. #833
    mtbr member
    Reputation: nybike1971's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,817
    I have cracked two of these rims (rear wheel) on small hits through rock gardens while the front wheel has been going strong. You can see the pictures of the cracked rims and more details of my experience further up in this thread.

    My wheels have been ridden all over the Northeastern US, two weeks in Oregon, one week in Utah, and week in Phoenix and Sedona in the past six months.

    Oregon did not pose any issues on these rims as most of the riding there is quite smooth and primarily on dirt. It took one day of riding in Moab, preriding the Whole Enchilada enduro race course, to crack the first stock rim. One month later I cracked a reinforced rim riding an XC rocky trail in NY state.

    I gave up on these carbon rim in the rear and went back to Flow rims. In Sedona a few weeks ago, I was following a fast buddy on a fast descent through slickrock shelves and a steep roller became unexpectedly a 4ft drop to flat into kind of a hole for the rear wheel. I cringed but fortunately the Flow rim which just shrugged it off. Not even a small dent. And I was running 28psi on a Schwalbe HD tire setup tubeless. I weigh 165lbs, for the record.

    For my terrain and riding style, these rims are just too fragile. The stiffness was very nice but the hassle of rebuilding a wheel every couple of months is not worth it to me.

  9. #834
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    250
    what is the difference in the weave patterns 12k, 3k, UD? any changes in strength? price on these is fantastic!

  10. #835
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by DOCRIGID View Post
    what is the difference in the weave patterns 12k, 3k, UD? any changes in strength? price on these is fantastic!
    Definitely a change in strength. Click on the question mark on Light Bicycle's website next to the weave pattern. It explains it.

  11. #836
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    357

  12. #837
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    250
    thanks!

  13. #838
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3,205
    Shouldn't be any difference in strength as they should all be UD but with a differing cosmetic cover ply of your choice, UD, 3k or 12K.

  14. #839
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by gvs_nz View Post
    Shouldn't be any difference in strength as they should all be UD but with a differing cosmetic cover ply of your choice, UD, 3k or 12K.
    Technically I guess this is correct. The wheel in its production phase is a UD construction. Question though: if I choose the UD matte/glossy, does the wheel come with a UD cover ply like you suggest, or does it come "raw" with just the UD build and no cover ply of an extra UD layer? In essence, if you get the 3k or 12k matte cover, you have a little bit of extra strength added to the wheel exterior, no?

  15. #840
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thuren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    754
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Definitely a change in strength. Click on the question mark on Light Bicycle's website next to the weave pattern. It explains it.
    Pretty sure the rims are mostly UD carbon, with the very most outer layer 3k or 12k if you specify. Honestly, I would want the external surfaces wrapped in 3k, and maybe a middle layer too from 3k, for delamination resistance. The 3k would cross the grain to prevent splitting. Kinda like splitting a piece of wood. If the grain changed direction, you would not get a long split. Hard to put what I mean in words.
    Bend, Oregon

  16. #841
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by thuren View Post
    Pretty sure the rims are mostly UD carbon, with the very most outer layer 3k or 12k if you specify. Honestly, I would want the external surfaces wrapped in 3k, and maybe a middle layer too from 3k, for delamination resistance. The 3k would cross the grain to prevent splitting. Kinda like splitting a piece of wood. If the grain changed direction, you would not get a long split. Hard to put what I mean in words.
    Did you have yours built this way? I have been in communication with Nancy for the past week, and just about to send an order. I did read somewhere that the 3k helps on the areas for the spoke/valve spots against possible delamination. Your suggestions make a lot of sense. I'll have to see if Nancy can accommodate something like this.

  17. #842
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Did you have yours built this way? I have been in communication with Nancy for the past week, and just about to send an order. I did read somewhere that the 3k helps on the areas for the spoke/valve spots against possible delamination. Your suggestions make a lot of sense. I'll have to see if Nancy can accommodate something like this.
    Here's the response I got from Nancy on this question:
    "We have one 3k layer inside the spoke holes, you can see it through the spoke holes.
    And if you order 3k rims, there will be another 3k layer on the top of rim. So, total is two layers of 3k carbon. Is it ok for you? If you like to order, we can make invoice for you.
    Thanks,
    Nancy"

    So it sounds like there actually is already two layers of 3k mixed in with the overall UD production.

  18. #843
    Ow!
    Reputation: clydecrash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    693

    Thanks for the info

    I have no input, just wanted to let all the posters know that I appreciate your discussion of these rims. Discussions were thorough and generally stayed on the topic (which, as you know, doesn't always happen). I am considering building an "AM" wheelset with carbon rims, but decided that the wider LB rims were not appropriate for what I want (riding over rocks and 3-foot drops). I will visit the thread occasionally to see what has developed.

    I'd rep all of you, but there are too many of you! So, virtual rep, and thanks again.

  19. #844
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by clydecrash View Post
    I have no input, just wanted to let all the posters know that I appreciate your discussion of these rims. Discussions were thorough and generally stayed on the topic (which, as you know, doesn't always happen). I am considering building an "AM" wheelset with carbon rims, but decided that the wider LB rims were not appropriate for what I want (riding over rocks and 3-foot drops). I will visit the thread occasionally to see what has developed.

    I'd rep all of you, but there are too many of you! So, virtual rep, and thanks again.
    I agree. The discussion here, with the exception of a jillion posts about shipment tracking, was very intuitive and informational. How come you say the wider 30mm rims aren't appropriate for an AM build? They have 24mm and 30mm sets. Is it just because of the fragility of carbon against rocks/drops? Those 30mm wheels should hold up crazy nice if you build them with good components.

  20. #845
    Ow!
    Reputation: clydecrash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I agree. The discussion here, with the exception of a jillion posts about shipment tracking, was very intuitive and informational. How come you say the wider 30mm rims aren't appropriate for an AM build? They have 24mm and 30mm sets. Is it just because of the fragility of carbon against rocks/drops? Those 30mm wheels should hold up crazy nice if you build them with good components.
    Yeah, it is mostly about the rocks. A lot of my trails are mostly rocks, and this set will go on my Blur LTc that is built up heavy. While I try to float over the rocks as much as I can (the frame excels at that), I bash quite a bit too. And I am 260 lbs, which is close to their weight limit. But, like I said, I will visit this thread in the future, and I may change my mind. I am not in a hurry to build a new set, but can anytime (have King hubs ready, probably spokes too). One thing LB has going for it is that they can drill whatever holes I want, which in this case would be 36 for the rear and 32 for the front. So I will keep them in mind.

    I have a set of Reynolds AM Carbons on my more XC/Trail bike, and those have been impressive (very stiff). But I do not use that bike in the more rocky areas.

  21. #846
    bike rider
    Reputation: Lelandjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    4,086
    Are there any other asian carbon companies making 23mm+ rims (internal)?

    I'm close to pulling the trigger on these in matte UD, one regular strength, one extra stength with no internal spoke holes.
    Last edited by Lelandjt; 01-09-2013 at 02:31 AM.
    Keep the Country country.

  22. #847
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Are there any other asian carbon companies making 23mm+ rims (internal)?

    I'm close to pulling the trigger on these in matte UD, one regular strength, one extra stength with no internal spoke holes.
    I'd reckon there's hundreds. Whether you can get access to them, or they have websites or functioning CS dept's, I don't know. I'm hesitant to buy Chinese products at all, but the last 34 pgs of info and feedback have me considering these too. How do you install spokes if there's no spoke holes? I don't think LB has there magic carbon wheels avail yet =)

  23. #848
    bike rider
    Reputation: Lelandjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    4,086
    There's still external spoke holes but no internal ones on the rim bed. You thread a short bent piece of spoke into each nipple, drop them in the valve hole, use a magnet to move them to their spoke hole, and tweezers to pull them through. Tedious but with brass nipples it's a one time thing and it would be sweet to have no tape for tubeless.
    Keep the Country country.

  24. #849
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    There's still external spoke holes but no internal ones on the rim bed. You thread a short bent piece of spoke into each nipple, drop them in the valve hole, use a magnet to move them to their spoke hole, and tweezers to pull them through. Tedious but with brass nipples it's a one time thing and it would be sweet to have no tape for tubeless.
    Not sure the distance between outer and inner part is deep enough to get the nipple turned and through the hole. The hole is quite deep as the carbon is thick in this area, also it's not extremely wide as I struggled to get some nipples through fully, needing some force. I would suggest getting them to check the measurement as feel you are heading for a headache and having to drill holes yourself!

  25. #850
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    139
    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    There's still external spoke holes but no internal ones on the rim bed. You thread a short bent piece of spoke into each nipple, drop them in the valve hole, use a magnet to move them to their spoke hole, and tweezers to pull them through. Tedious but with brass nipples it's a one time thing and it would be sweet to have no tape for tubeless.
    VERY interesting. I'm planning to run mine tubeless, and that's ingenious. Would practically be fail-safe and wouldn't have to mess with tape or rim strips. The magnet task would work through a carbon rim?

Page 34 of 64 FirstFirst ... 24 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 44 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •