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  1. #1551
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I'm looking to buy tubeless valve stem for my 33mm wide 30mm deep rims and I'm pretty sure 45mm would be short, 50mm would be better, but how do they usually measure the length of the valve stem ? Is it from where the rubber ends (aka where the stem seal contacts the rim bed) to the tip of the stem ? From measuring this way, using a 45mm presta valve from an old tube, I barely have it long enough, using two locknuts to make sure it won't get loose, to screw in the adapter to inflate. I had a hard time finding 50mm stem in aluminum, but the 46mm red aluminum American Classic stems look very nice and I also found the WTB tcs ones in 48mm.

    Anyone who tried tubeless valve stems with these rims could give me a clue on who has the proper valve length out there ?

    Thanks
    Not your rims but a LB 29" 35mm rim with Stan's 35mm stems. These rims have a 25mm depth.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-p1000833.jpg  


  2. #1552
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I'm looking to buy tubeless valve stem for my 33mm wide 30mm deep rims and I'm pretty sure 45mm would be short, 50mm would be better, but how do they usually measure the length of the valve stem ? Is it from where the rubber ends (aka where the stem seal contacts the rim bed) to the tip of the stem ? From measuring this way, using a 45mm presta valve from an old tube, I barely have it long enough, using two locknuts to make sure it won't get loose, to screw in the adapter to inflate. I had a hard time finding 50mm stem in aluminum, but the 46mm red aluminum American Classic stems look very nice and I also found the WTB tcs ones in 48mm.

    Anyone who tried tubeless valve stems with these rims could give me a clue on who has the proper valve length out there ?

    Thanks
    I have your exact rims and Stan's standard MTB stems are just long enough to get the job done

  3. #1553
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Thanks, I think I'll go with the 45mm+ valves.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #1554
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Speed Evolution long valves work great. American Classic look nice but break.


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  5. #1555
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    What part of AC valves are breaking ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  6. #1556
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I'm looking to buy tubeless valve stem for my 33mm wide 30mm deep rims and I'm pretty sure 45mm would be short, 50mm would be better, but how do they usually measure the length of the valve stem ? Is it from where the rubber ends (aka where the stem seal contacts the rim bed) to the tip of the stem ? From measuring this way, using a 45mm presta valve from an old tube, I barely have it long enough, using two locknuts to make sure it won't get loose, to screw in the adapter to inflate. I had a hard time finding 50mm stem in aluminum, but the 46mm red aluminum American Classic stems look very nice and I also found the WTB tcs ones in 48mm.

    Anyone who tried tubeless valve stems with these rims could give me a clue on who has the proper valve length out there ?

    Thanks
    I've got a set of these on the way, how close was the ERD to the stated 518?

  7. #1557
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    What part of AC valves are breaking ?
    They'll snap right in the middle of the shaft if you're rough with them when removing a pump or over-tightening the nut. Light and cool looking but thin aluminum.
    Keep the Country country.

  8. #1558
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    Quote Originally Posted by omoore61 View Post
    I've got a set of these on the way, how close was the ERD to the stated 518?
    Using the stated 518mm ERD, my spokes where right on. My guess is either I got lucky or these rims are very close to spec. Once I received the hookless replacement rim, I'll measure ERD on it to see if it's constant throughout the circumference of the rim. Should be the exact same rim, just without bed hook. What hubs are you gonna be using ? You might be able to compare spoke lengths with someone using the same hubs and rims.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #1559
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    They'll snap right in the middle of the shaft if you're rough with them when removing a pump or over-tightening the nut. Light and cool looking but thin aluminum.
    So I guess I'll stay away from them. Thanks for the info.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  10. #1560
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    I've been using the 46 AC valve stems for a while now with no issues. The o-rings on the top and bottom give a better seal than others that I've used. Plus they're light and look sweet. I have them on 2 sets of LB 33 wide 26" wheels. I think they will hold up fine unless your rough with them like lelandjt said.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

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  11. #1561
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    Last edited by omoore61; 06-18-2014 at 09:25 PM.

  12. #1562
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I'm looking to buy tubeless valve stem for my 33mm wide 30mm deep rims and I'm pretty sure 45mm would be short, 50mm would be better, but how do they usually measure the length of the valve stem ? Is it from where the rubber ends (aka where the stem seal contacts the rim bed) to the tip of the stem ? From measuring this way, using a 45mm presta valve from an old tube, I barely have it long enough, using two locknuts to make sure it won't get loose, to screw in the adapter to inflate. I had a hard time finding 50mm stem in aluminum, but the 46mm red aluminum American Classic stems look very nice and I also found the WTB tcs ones in 48mm.

    Anyone who tried tubeless valve stems with these rims could give me a clue on who has the proper valve length out there ?

    Thanks
    Stans Universal will fit fine. I've used them on 30mm deep road rims.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

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  13. #1563
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    Hi guys
    I received my 33mm hookless 26" rims last night. I laced them up to my DTS 350 set with 14mm nipples.
    I have plenty of slack in my spokes and can't tension the wheels up. I used the DT Swiss spokes calculator using the 518mm EDR LB provided.
    What options do I have now? I have about 3-4mm extra length in my spokes

  14. #1564
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    12mm nipples but that might not be enough to take up all the slack.
    Keep the Country country.

  15. #1565
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    Hi guys
    I received my 33mm hookless 26" rims last night. I laced them up to my DTS 350 set with 14mm nipples.
    I have plenty of slack in my spokes and can't tension the wheels up. I used the DT Swiss spokes calculator using the 518mm EDR LB provided.
    What options do I have now? I have about 3-4mm extra length in my spokes
    Take the spokes to a shop that can resize them.

  16. #1566
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    Hi guys
    I received my 33mm hookless 26" rims last night. I laced them up to my DTS 350 set with 14mm nipples.
    I have plenty of slack in my spokes and can't tension the wheels up. I used the DT Swiss spokes calculator using the 518mm EDR LB provided.
    What options do I have now? I have about 3-4mm extra length in my spokes
    Cross 2 or 3? Did u calculate which u were using?
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  17. #1567
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    Hi guys
    I received my 33mm hookless 26" rims last night. I laced them up to my DTS 350 set with 14mm nipples.
    I have plenty of slack in my spokes and can't tension the wheels up. I used the DT Swiss spokes calculator using the 518mm EDR LB provided.
    What options do I have now? I have about 3-4mm extra length in my spokes
    Same thing here with my 27.5, ERD varies from 565 to 563.
    Not so sure that 12 mm nipples will be enough, I'm also using 14 mm and I think I might end shortening the spokes.

  18. #1568
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    I just paid the invoice for shipping the replacement rim ($44.51 USD), so I'll be reporting in a few weeks when I receive the hookless rim. In the meanwhile I'll try to patch my current rim and probably tape over the plug on the other rim when I'll do my tubeless setup for the new tires, just in case the plug decides to loosen up to.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  19. #1569
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    Hi guys
    I received my 33mm hookless 26" rims last night. I laced them up to my DTS 350 set with 14mm nipples.
    I have plenty of slack in my spokes and can't tension the wheels up. I used the DT Swiss spokes calculator using the 518mm EDR LB provided.
    What options do I have now? I have about 3-4mm extra length in my spokes
    other than the above-mentioned shorter nipples, and the possibility of getting the spokes shortened (i am not sure of this), i dunno what your options are. i have heard of the existence of nipple washers - maybe they'd take up another quarter mm of slack?

    out of interest, what spoke lengths are you using? and what is the rim's ERD when you measure it? are you doing 32 3-cross? is that a 6 bolt or centrelock hub?

    i've got a couple 33mm 26" rims (not hookless though) sitting at home, with the same claimed 518mm ERD. I should probably measure them up at some stage - just have no need to build them up yet (flow rims won't die).

  20. #1570
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    The ERD on the 33 wide 26" rim should be 518. My spoke length for Hope Pro 2 EVO's and 33 hole 3 cross was 251 if my memory is correct. It was the same for 2 sets of wheels too.
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  21. #1571
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    Hi guys,
    I made a mistake with the lacing (I am still a beginner at building). 2x laced at first but then repeated with a 3x lace. My rear has 14mm nipples. My front has 12mm nipples. Both are built now. Perfectly true and the tension is nicely balanced (checked with a Park TM-1).
    Thanks for all the responses and apologies for my n00b mistake

    For spokes lengths, the DT Swiss calculator was spot on. 254mm, 255mm and 256mm for my DT Swiss 350 15mm/12x142mm hubs.

    Use Gorilla Tape for the rim tape. Been using it for more than 2 years without any trouble.

    My Hans Dampf Evo tires sealed without sealant. Tire mounting was HORRENDOUS - my fingers still hurt from mounting the HD last night.
    Today I will mount the Big Betty 2.4 FR Evo on the front - it is much tighter than the HD on my puny 21mm DTS rims. I can only imagine how nasty it will be to mount it. Any tips?

  22. #1572
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    Use NoTubes tape instead of Gorilla. The extra thickness of Gorilla makes it harder to mount tight tires. You'll also save 30g per wheel.
    Keep the Country country.

  23. #1573
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    LOL, I thought it might be a spoke cross issue. That's what I asked earlier. As far as tips for getting the tight tire on, try setting it in the sun for a while. That softens it up and expands it a little. Don't put the rim in the sun though, just the tire. Then some elbow grease with the tire irons. It ain't easy, but it's a nice tight seal when u r done.

    I agree with lelandjt too on the tape. I use Stan's 21mm wide.
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  24. #1574
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    Well, I am from Egypt. It's expensive to buy special parts and have them shipped to Egypt. Till then, Gorilla works fine for me and the 30g is hardly a penalty.
    Thanks for the tip. Both wheels up and running. First ride tomorrow! Can't bloody wait!

  25. #1575
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    My Hans Dampf Evo tires sealed without sealant. Tire mounting was HORRENDOUS - my fingers still hurt from mounting the HD last night.
    Today I will mount the Big Betty 2.4 FR Evo on the front - it is much tighter than the HD on my puny 21mm DTS rims. I can only imagine how nasty it will be to mount it. Any tips?
    I have the same wheels & tire combo - these are the most difficult rims to mount tires I have ever used - this makes sense since they are very wide and deep - a good, quality pair of plastic tire levers are a worthy investment. Also, check out the Stan's website for tips on tire mounting technique - it is easier to get the tire on/off when the opposite side is not yet fully seated

    As previously mentioned, the nice part is once the tire is on, it is ON! I have never burped these

  26. #1576
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    Anyone have opinions on the older 23mm ID 650b wheels that they offer to build up for you? Was thinking of having them build me up a set.

  27. #1577
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by kan3 View Post
    Anyone have opinions on the older 23mm ID 650b wheels that they offer to build up for you? Was thinking of having them build me up a set.
    They can build you a set with any rims they offer, even if they show rim only option. Just email them.

    From what I heard, build quality isn't impressive (considering the use of carbon rims as being a luxury and not just a standard build), so you'd better build them up yourself or have a local experienced wheelbuilder do it for you. Their spokes are great, but I'm concerned about the lengths they use that can be on the very short side or too long.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  28. #1578
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    LB enduro 33mm carbon rim, 36 psi rear, purg 2.3, 2 inch root, sooo bummed, totally surprised. They were great for a while.
    :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

  29. #1579
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    Yea, it happens. I had it happen to my rear a few months ago too, but the good thing is they warrantied it without too much problem. They replaced it with a hookless model too so I think the sidewalls are a little stronger now.
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  30. #1580
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    I'm bummed! I went riding today and as I was bombing down the trail, I bunny hopped off a small riser on the trail and when I landed, I heard a loud pop. When I got to the bottom of the trail shortly after, I noticed the tire was low. So when I looked at it, this is what I found. The line down the tire is where the Stan's leaked out when the rim broke. Luckily, I pumped it back up and it held air and stayed straight for the rest of the ride back to my truck, another 6 miles or so. I took it easy though. I already emailed Nancy and Kartrin and got a response that they are on vacation until the 8th. Hopefully they will warranty it. What's weird though is it wasn't anything big. I've taken these rims off drops, jumps, through big rock gardens and they were fine, but it broke on something small. I don't know, maybe I landed on a rock or something. I'm super bummed though because I love these rims. They have been awesome until today, but I guess nothing is indestructible.
    Exactly what happened to mine in exactly the same place. Harmless looking little root that took them out! I was shocked. Loved them up till now!

  31. #1581
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    So im really torn on if ill build up my replacement rim or just try to sell it. Loved these while i rode them but just not sure if i can trust them again after breaking them on our beginner trail (cool-down lap) in such a nothing incident. Cost to rebuild with flows $300. Relace replacement $130. Plus loss of bling and addition of weight. Thoughts???

  32. #1582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravitythief76 View Post
    So im really torn on if ill build up my replacement rim or just try to sell it. Loved these while i rode them but just not sure if i can trust them again after breaking them on our beginner trail (cool-down lap) in such a nothing incident. Cost to rebuild with flows $300. Relace replacement $130. Plus loss of bling and addition of weight. Thoughts???
    I cracked my rear within a month of getting them (I had the older "wide" AM version). I was even very careful about my pressures, keeping it over 30 psi, also had a pretty stout tire (DHF 2.5). My front is still going strong after over two years, no issues. My opinion is that that aggressive riders will eventually damage a rear carbon rim. I switched to a Flow EX rear and haven't looked back. The weight savings is just not worth it if it leaves you stranded in a remote location on a huge ride.

  33. #1583
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    I put my replacement 33 wide hookless AM rim on and rode Snow Summit and Mammoth on it. YOLO!!!
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  34. #1584
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    Not sure how replacing your rim with a Flow Ex is $300. The rim goes for about $70, spokes should be about $30, learn to build it yourself (maybe $12 for an online ebook) and another $20 for a local, reputable builder to check your work.

    Eric

  35. #1585
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    Quote Originally Posted by rugbyred View Post
    Not sure how replacing your rim with a Flow Ex is $300. The rim goes for about $70, spokes should be about $30, learn to build it yourself (maybe $12 for an online ebook) and another $20 for a local, reputable builder to check your work.

    Eric
    $300 sounds about right. $140 for 2 flow rims, $60 for spokes, maybe $50 for each wheel build.

    not everyone has the inclination to build their own wheels. the tools cost a lot too - you can build the tools yourself though.

    having said that, despite the reasonably high cost of buying all the tools (>$400), i am so glad i did.

  36. #1586
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    Sclyde,
    I agree with you about not everyone wanting/able to build their own wheels. I am horrible reading directions, bought an online resource, built laced my wheels in about 40min each (I am not mechanically inclined) and brought a case of beer over to a friend for final adjustments.
    My wheel build came in less than $500 for Hope hubs and Sapim spokes. I have three children, everything bike related needs to be done cheap.
    Also, I believe the guy only wanted to replace one wheel.

    Eric

  37. #1587
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravitythief76 View Post
    So im really torn on if ill build up my replacement rim or just try to sell it. Loved these while i rode them but just not sure if i can trust them again after breaking them on our beginner trail (cool-down lap) in such a nothing incident. Cost to rebuild with flows $300. Relace replacement $130. Plus loss of bling and addition of weight. Thoughts???

    Is it a 26" 33 wide hookless replacement? If so, how much? Pm me if u want to sell it.
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  38. #1588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravitythief76 View Post
    Cost to rebuild with flows $300.
    Quote Originally Posted by rugbyred View Post
    I believe the guy only wanted to replace one wheel.

    Eric
    flows. you missed the s

  39. #1589
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    I definitely missed the S on the flows but he did not add one on the rim part!!!

  40. #1590
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    Quote Originally Posted by rugbyred View Post
    I definitely missed the S on the flows but he did not add one on the rim part!!!
    The $300 was for two flow ex rims, blue alloy nipples, wheel smith db spokes, stans tape and labor. I have 3 kids too and can relate to the need for do-it-yourself thinking that comes with it, but there are some things I still leave up to my lbs.

  41. #1591
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Is it a 26" 33 wide hookless replacement? If so, how much? Pm me if u want to sell it.
    Will do.

  42. #1592
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    Lesson learned!

  43. #1593
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Is it a 26" 33 wide hookless replacement? If so, how much? Pm me if u want to sell it.
    I too have a spare hookless rim... Sell it or buy a second one to build up a new set ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  44. #1594
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    How is the hookless version holding up? Are they more durable?

  45. #1595
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    How is the hookless version holding up? Are they more durable?
    yea, i have a handful of ez rides on them and it feels smoother but now just waiting for that back one to go crack

  46. #1596
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    How is the hookless version holding up? Are they more durable?
    So far so good. The side wall is a little bit thicker so I'm sure it's a little stronger. I think the tolerances are a little tighter too. The tires were a little harder to get on, but when I first aired them up, they held air for 2 days without any sealant in them. I rode them in Mammoth Bike Park and Snow Summit off jumps, drops and through rock gardens. No problems...yet.
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  47. #1597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    So far so good. The side wall is a little bit thicker so I'm sure it's a little stronger. I think the tolerances are a little tighter too. The tires were a little harder to get on, but when I first aired them up, they held air for 2 days without any sealant in them. I rode them in Mammoth Bike Park and Snow Summit off jumps, drops and through rock gardens. No problems...yet.
    Thanks for the info. I wonder if the new Schwalbe procore system would help at all.

  48. #1598
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    How is the hookless version holding up? Are they more durable?
    I'm loving mine, corning is where you really notice it and they have stayed perfectly true!, the only thing is that the rim does seem to mark up with rock/stone strikes, just lacquer marks hopefully no chips. I used Gorilla tape and they hold air well.

    Enjoy..

  49. #1599
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    Thanks for the info. I wonder if the new Schwalbe procore system would help at all.
    I think that system defeats the purpose of having a light weight tubeless wheel. That system just adds un necessary weight and complexity. A wide carbon hookless rim is strong and has an increased air volume so you can run lower pressures for better traction without worrying about pinch flats. Because the rim is wider and hookless with tighter tolerances, there is no burping or rolling the tire on the rim either. I've yet to burp or roll the tire on the rim with these new wheels even when railing high speed turns and lower pressures, (20-22 in front and 25-28 in the rear). I love these wheels. And for those that don't know, Light Bikes is now making 38mm wide X 32mm deep 26" rims. I ordered mine a couple days ago, so I'll post how they are when I get them.
    13 Intense Uzzi
    06 Santa Cruz Nomad
    00 Santa Cruz Bullit
    26er's for life!!!

  50. #1600
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
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    Aug 2007
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    If you normally run Super Gravity tires, you can go for normal tires without worrying about rock strikes etc. So if you run normal tires just fine, the ProCore system is not for you.

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