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  1. #751
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    My old wheels were Stan's Arch (not the EX version)-DT-2.0-1.8-2.0 Comp spokes, Hadley hubs, 15mm front, 10mm thru rear. LB wheels are-wide AM rim, 2.0-1.7-2.0 wheelsmith spokes, DT Swiss 350 hubs, 15mm front, 10mm rear. So far, my old wheels are definitely better in the rough, i.e bombing down rough downhills. The LB carbon wheels are lighter, and they definitely allow the tires to hook up better, especially climbing.

  2. #752
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    I just order my matte stronger DU rims i should see them in a few weeks! im excited to see if they hold up!

  3. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod35 View Post
    My old wheels were Stan's Arch (not the EX version)-DT-2.0-1.8-2.0 Comp spokes, Hadley hubs, 15mm front, 10mm thru rear. LB wheels are-wide AM rim, 2.0-1.7-2.0 wheelsmith spokes, DT Swiss 350 hubs, 15mm front, 10mm rear. So far, my old wheels are definitely better in the rough, i.e bombing down rough downhills. The LB carbon wheels are lighter, and they definitely allow the tires to hook up better, especially climbing.
    I had the Arch rims just swapped everything over onto the carbon rims and the new rims make the wheels 100% better in all situations, so I would disagree with your findings. Just my opinion.

  4. #754
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    Well, it was fun while it lasted...

    After about 5 weeks of riding, I was riding my favorite local trail and I rolled off a tiny jump (about a foot drop). I didn't notice the rock in the landing area until I hit it.

    The carbon rim didn't like handle the impact well.

    So sad, I really liked it until this happened. I'll be rebuilding with an alloy rim (Nancy says this is not covered by warranty).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-img_1111.jpg  


  5. #755
    knobby noob
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    Just received from Nancy a day ago... 3k matte, hope it stands up to my usage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-2012-11-14-11.22.03.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-2012-11-14-11.22.45.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-2012-11-14-11.23.05.jpg  


  6. #756
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    Nice! I've been enjoying mine for several months now. I've used them through the rocky jungle riding we have here in Hawaii and even three weeks of CO single track trails. They've been wonderful. Hope they work as great for you as they have for me.

  7. #757
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    just ordered a set to lace over to my I9's...fingers crossed...

  8. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by dabe View Post
    After about 5 weeks of riding, I was riding my favorite local trail and I rolled off a tiny jump (about a foot drop). I didn't notice the rock in the landing area until I hit it.

    The carbon rim didn't like handle the impact well.

    So sad, I really liked it until this happened. I'll be rebuilding with an alloy rim (Nancy says this is not covered by warranty).
    Curious, did you pinch flat? Running tubeless? I've upped my pressure to avoid any chance of rock to rim contact.

  9. #759
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    Quote Originally Posted by dabe View Post
    I didn't notice the rock in the landing area until I hit it.
    Ouch, bad luck.

    I doubt an alloy rim would have handled the 'one sharp object on landing' scenario much better, but then again it doesn't hurt nearly as much to bust a $40 rim as a $150 carbon.

    Better luck with the replacement!

  10. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by dabe View Post
    After about 5 weeks of riding, I was riding my favorite local trail and I rolled off a tiny jump (about a foot drop). I didn't notice the rock in the landing area until I hit it.

    The carbon rim didn't like handle the impact well.

    So sad, I really liked it until this happened. I'll be rebuilding with an alloy rim (Nancy says this is not covered by warranty).
    bummer dude. out of curiosity, what did that rim weigh? curious if it was on the lighter or heavier/more reinforced end of the spectrum that they offer. thx.

  11. #761
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    my broken rim

    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    bummer dude. out of curiosity, what did that rim weigh? curious if it was on the lighter or heavier/more reinforced end of the spectrum that they offer. thx.
    The rim weighed 384g.

    I was running tubeless. The impact broke the rim which caused the tire to leak down very quickly.

    I was running tubeless using gorilla tape with Continental Mountain King tires (version 1). I never had any trouble burping or getting the tires to seat.

    I was running 32 psi at the time of the failure.

    I agree that I might have damaged an alloy rim in same circumstances. We will never know for sure, since I promptly removed the rock.

  12. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by dabe View Post
    The rim weighed 384g.

    I was running tubeless. The impact broke the rim which caused the tire to leak down very quickly.

    I was running tubeless using gorilla tape with Continental Mountain King tires (version 1). I never had any trouble burping or getting the tires to seat.

    I was running 32 psi at the time of the failure.

    I agree that I might have damaged an alloy rim in same circumstances. We will never know for sure, since I promptly removed the rock.
    OK, for the sake of our testing, please rebuild the wheel with a similar weight alloy rim. Place rock back in spot. Hit it the same (or as close to) as possible and report back

    Seriously, bummer on the rim - and good job on the trail maintenance so the next person along doesnt suffer the same fate.

  13. #763
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    Just laced them up with Hope Pro 2 Evos:


  14. #764
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    Are you guys building these wheels with nipple washers?
    I think someone suggested it may help with spoke nipple alignment, but my worry would be
    the amount of carbon that the nipple could wear away.

  15. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by geo025 View Post
    Are you guys building these wheels with nipple washers?
    I think someone suggested it may help with spoke nipple alignment, but my worry would be
    the amount of carbon that the nipple could wear away.
    No, didn't find it necessary.
    MTBP
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  16. #766
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    Quote Originally Posted by litany View Post
    Straight gauge spokes aren't stronger than butted spokes, they are weaker. Its a common misconception that the heavier spoke is somehow stronger. Spokes are very strong nevertheless. it's just harder to build with double butted spokes because they tend to "wind up" easier which just means when you are turning the nipple it's not turning on the spoke, you're turning the spoke which doesn't actually increase tension. There are techniques to deal with this it just makes building the wheel harder.
    DT-Swiss Aerolites, or a similar bladed spoke, and a good bladed-spoke holder are a great way to build a strong wheel to high tension without spoke wind-up. I built a set of Edge Composites (now ENVE) wheels like this. Helped me get the very high recommended spoke tension, safely and easily.

    Morgan

  17. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by morganfletcher View Post
    DT-Swiss Aerolites, or a similar bladed spoke, and a good bladed-spoke holder are a great way to build a strong wheel to high tension without spoke wind-up. I built a set of Edge Composites (now ENVE) wheels like this. Helped me get the very high recommended spoke tension, safely and easily.

    Morgan
    I agree 100% with everything you said but for me at least, it is tough to stray from the tried and true (and reasonably priced) double butted spoke.
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten." - Benjamin Franklin

  18. #768
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    I've gone over this thread & the 29er & didn't see/read failures of the burlier build rims, Is that the case so far?

  19. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by geo025 View Post
    I've gone over this thread & the 29er & didn't see/read failures of the burlier build rims, Is that the case so far?
    I had a "beefed up" 402 gram 650b rim break running normal to more than usual tire pressure and they are sending me a new one. The front is going fine so far. Pics in the 650b/27.5 forum.
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  20. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by geo025 View Post
    I've gone over this thread & the 29er & didn't see/read failures of the burlier build rims, Is that the case so far?
    There is one undeniable fact that you will find true 100% of the time: In any review or thread about mountain bike wheels, both extremes will be represented- those that hammer a wheelset and love it, and those that have "I was just riding along..." stories of catastrophic failure.

    We have varying riding styles and talents, different body weights and wheelbuilding skills. There are the silent majorities and the vocal minorities. Some demand the impossible, and are never satisfied. Some understand limitations and have realistic expectations.

    Use your judgement. I bought a set of these rims for the fun of an experiment. There are tried and true workhorse wheelsets out there if you can't afford to gamble. I would still buy Deemax wheels even if some dude on a forum posted a pic saying he folded two hoops and blew the freehub hopping a curb. I'd still avoid a $100 wheelset if some other dude claims three seasons of dirt jumping without ever having to adjust tension or bearing preload. There is enough info in this whopper of a thread to base a decision on so long as you are honest with yourself about how well you can build and ride these wheels, and accept that sometimes mountain bike parts break when pushed near the limit.
    Go out and ride your bike


  21. #771
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    Well said.

  22. #772
    Greystoke
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurotrash666 View Post
    There is one undeniable fact that you will find true 100% of the time: In any review or thread about mountain bike wheels, both extremes will be represented- those that hammer a wheelset and love it, and those that have "I was just riding along..." stories of catastrophic failure.

    We have varying riding styles and talents, different body weights and wheelbuilding skills. There are the silent majorities and the vocal minorities. Some demand the impossible, and are never satisfied. Some understand limitations and have realistic expectations.

    Use your judgement. I bought a set of these rims for the fun of an experiment. There are tried and true workhorse wheelsets out there if you can't afford to gamble. I would still buy Deemax wheels even if some dude on a forum posted a pic saying he folded two hoops and blew the freehub hopping a curb. I'd still avoid a $100 wheelset if some other dude claims three seasons of dirt jumping without ever having to adjust tension or bearing preload. There is enough info in this whopper of a thread to base a decision on so long as you are honest with yourself about how well you can build and ride these wheels, and accept that sometimes mountain bike parts break when pushed near the limit.
    Thanks for the blog....

    I decided it was worth the risk so placed an order for the heavier built rims last week, they should be popping out of the mold any time now.
    I'll lace up the front front wheel, see how it rides then venture on to the rear when I'm happy with it.

    I remember not that many years back I had a carbon bar that folded on me in a race, not a great experience I want to repeat. Now I'm confidently using Carbon bars again & they are stronger than any alloy bars I've owned( but still expensive).

    Carbon rims I expect will get better & hopefully cheaper down the track & we will wonder how we ever rode on alloy rims, I just need to man up now & not become the crash test dummy again...

  23. #773
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    Looking for advice on tubeless setup on the rims... Trying to mount 2.35 nevegals (non-ust) and cant get them to inflate at all, even with 3 layers of stans tape. The tire bead is very loose in the groove. Has anyone managed to get these to work tubeless?

    Only options seem to be to inflate at gas station with sealant inside - would this work?? The lbs said a bontrager strip wouldn't work as they are designed only for bonty rims, but others here seem to have had success.

  24. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude View Post
    Looking for advice on tubeless setup on the rims... Trying to mount 2.35 nevegals (non-ust) and cant get them to inflate at all, even with 3 layers of stans tape. The tire bead is very loose in the groove. Has anyone managed to get these to work tubeless?

    Only options seem to be to inflate at gas station with sealant inside - would this work?? The lbs said a bontrager strip wouldn't work as they are designed only for bonty rims, but others here seem to have had success.
    Having three layers of tape won't make it any easier to mount vs. one layer of tape. I ran a non UST Nevegal tubeless before on a Mavic wheel and remember it was pain to get the bead to seal. If you're using a floor pump forget about mounting it. You'll need a compressor so you can blast it with high pressure and its ok to have sealant in the tire. You really have to massage the bead all the way around to make sure you can make it seal. I remember it took me some time to get it to hook up.

    Bonty strips work great on these wheels and I have no issue running them. Not sure how they would work with Kenda tires but no issues mounting tires or holding air with Specialzed or Maxxis tires I've ran.

  25. #775
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude View Post
    Looking for advice on tubeless setup on the rims... Trying to mount 2.35 nevegals (non-ust) and cant get them to inflate at all, even with 3 layers of stans tape. The tire bead is very loose in the groove. Has anyone managed to get these to work tubeless?

    Only options seem to be to inflate at gas station with sealant inside - would this work?? The lbs said a bontrager strip wouldn't work as they are designed only for bonty rims, but others here seem to have had success.
    You must use a rim strip. Bontrager or Stans or ghetto... Something.
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