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  1. #1451
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    I used Fulcrum valve stems. They are longer and made in Italy and can be found at a lot of shops or online. Here's a pic of mine.
    These are sexy. How much $$ does a pair of tubeless valves usually cost ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #1452
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    These are sexy. How much $$ does a pair of tubeless valves usually cost ?
    LOL, thanks. Fulcrum's are around $15-20 a pair. if you think that's sexy, check out the whole thing here.

    2013 Intense Uzzi - Faster Than U's Bike Check - Vital MTB
    Last edited by Shredman69; 12-26-2013 at 08:54 PM. Reason: Added info.

  3. #1453
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Haha, I love the ELS sticker *Expensive Lightweight Shit*

    xD
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #1454
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    LOL, thanks. Me too!

  5. #1455
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    So I'm having a bit of an issue with a new set I'm trying to get set up. I was using a set of Easton valves in my other 33mm set, and didn't have any trouble mounting/holding air. My new set I'm using Fat Alberts and Stan's valves.

    Issue #1: can't get the "pop" connect sound to set the beads, on either wheel. I can get the PSI up to 50 but still don't hear the pop. I can get them to hold air for about 10min's until.....
    Issue #2: both Stan's valves are leaking a tiny amount of air where the round nut tightens down to the rim wall to hold the valve in place. I have them hand tightened as of now, didn't know if I should go tighter with a carbon wheel. Use some pliers to tighten that nut? Anyone else having these issues?

  6. #1456
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    I would tighten them up as tight as you can by hand. If you spray some soapy water on the beads, that should help them pop onto the bead fully. Just keep adding air, little by little until they pop on, then let it back out to what you run. Once you do that, shake the wheel back and forth, with the valve on the bottom of the wheel so the Stan's fully coats the inside of the valve. That should do it. I shake the Stan's all around the inside. Once you go for a ride, that usually seals the whole inside so it holds air for along time.

  7. #1457
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    you can make rubber washers to fit underneath the valve nut out of an old innertube in seconds, a rubber washer will help seal leaks & protect the rim

    #1 cut a square of innertube approx 2cm square (3/4 inch)
    #2 fold square in half & pinch with forefinger & thumb
    #3 cut around you thumb making a half circle & unfold to reveal circle of rubber
    #4 fold in half again & snip the middle for cut-out for valve
    #5 trim any excess

    it might take a couple attempts to get it right, use the washers under the valve nut to make a barrier between the carbon rim & metal valve washer that sealant will seal quickly under pressure

    have been riding carbon MTB rims tubeless for 4 years now, DT Swiss XRC 330 & 300 with regular tyres, mostly Rocket Rons & Race King Supersonic

    tip:
    tyres do not always pop when inflating with carbon rims.
    make sure there is no old dried up sealant around the tyre bead it will make it much harder to inflate & seal.
    don't over inflate when beading a tyre tubeless for the first time, only go 5-10 psi max over what pressure you normally ride when first inflating.
    shake the tyre, rotate & repeat to ensure the sealant fully wets the bead inside all around.
    a drop of Tri-Flow dry lubricant will protect alloy spoke nips from corrosion caused by sealant.

    ...will be building a LB new AM wheelset myself next month

    best
    alex
    Last edited by culturesponge; 12-27-2013 at 08:05 PM. Reason: typo

  8. #1458
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    ^^ mine did "pop" in place on my carbon DH 30mm wide rims. A nice clean pop sound, not some metal breaking kind of pop you usually get with alu rims.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #1459
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    ^^^ nice to know, will post experience with mine when they are here/laced & dirty

    ...ordered WTB 46mm black aluminium valves for the LB new AM 30mm rims

    best
    alex

  10. #1460
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    Just got my LB 33mm wide rims and the ERD measures 526mm instead of 518mm that is claimed on their site. Ι've made about 4 measurements on one rim and i get the same result.

    The method i used to measure ERD is this one link

    Any ideas what I'm doing wrong, or it might just be different from the factory?

    Luckily i haven't ordered spokes yet just for the reason i wanted to measure ERD by myself.
    Last edited by mak_kioy; 12-30-2013 at 11:31 AM. Reason: wrong measured erd 526 instead of 523
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  11. #1461
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    That's not right. The AM ones were 538 if I remember right and they were about 20mm deep I think. So the DH ones at 30mm wide and 33mm deep are 518. So there's something wrong with your measurements. And if the rim is actually what you measured, it's like super thick at the spoke hole. It should only be like 3-4mm thick max per specs.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  12. #1462
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    They are about 4mm thick at spoke holes. I'm pretty sure I am measuring the ERD correctly, but I'll take a friends measure it also, before I order spokes. Also measured and the other rim and i got same results. 526mm ERD.

    where may i be adding 4mm on each side?
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  13. #1463
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by mak_kioy View Post
    They are about 4mm thick at spoke holes. I'm pretty sure I am measuring the ERD correctly, but I'll take a friends measure it also, before I order spokes. Also measured and the other rim and i got same results. 526mm ERD.

    where may i be adding 4mm on each side?
    My AM rims' ERD came in at 530mm instead of the advertised 538mm. So i wouldn't doubt yourself too much.






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  14. #1464
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    where may i be adding 4mm on each side?[/QUOTE]


    Just for the hell of it-are you measuring from on top of the spoke nipple head or under the rim of the head?

    Just a thought cause that sounds like your 4mm there.

  15. #1465
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    Spokes cutted down to 201mm and 202mm and fully threaded into the nipples, until faced to the "mushroom/head" of the nipple. Then tensioned by hand and measure the gap between the spoke ends. As like as the link I have posted before.

    example pic taken from web
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  16. #1466
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by mak_kioy View Post
    Spokes cutted down to 201mm and 202mm and fully threaded into the nipples, until faced to the "mushroom/head" of the nipple. Then tensioned by hand and measure the gap between the spoke ends. As like as the link I have posted before.

    example pic taken from web
    So you have 200mm from under the nipple head to the other end of the spoke ? Then an identical setup on the confirmed opposite side of the rim, and you get about 126mm between both spokes ends ?

    Just for fun, take a string, pass it through both spoke holes of the rim, make it straight, then using a marker, mark the string where it enters the rim (aka measuring inner diameter of the rim). Then measure the distance between the marks and add 7mm (specs of the rim shows a thickness of 3.5mm) and see what comes out.

    Also, please measure the rim depth, it should be 33mm from outer edge to inner edge, and external width should be 30mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  17. #1467
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    So you have 200mm from under the nipple head to the other end of the spoke ? Then an identical setup on the confirmed opposite side of the rim, and you get about 126mm between both spokes ends ?

    Just for fun, take a string, pass it through both spoke holes of the rim, make it straight, then using a marker, mark the string where it enters the rim (aka measuring inner diameter of the rim). Then measure the distance between the marks and add 7mm (specs of the rim shows a thickness of 3.5mm) and see what comes out.

    Also, please measure the rim depth, it should be 33mm from outer edge to inner edge, and external width should be 30mm.
    David, you have it backwards. The new AM/DH rim is 33 wide and 30 deep. My ERD was 518 just like they were advertised.

    New 26er 33mm wide enduro MTB all mountain downhill carbon rim tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle

    The ERD on the older 30mm wide rim is advertised at 538

  18. #1468
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    David, you have it backwards. The new AM/DH rim is 33 wide and 30 deep. My ERD was 518 just like they were advertised.

    New 26er 33mm wide enduro MTB all mountain downhill carbon rim tubeless compatible Light-Bicycle

    The ERD on the older 30mm wide rim is advertised at 538
    Damn I'm getting old, I always mix up the width and depth of these exact rims. Either way, mines were 518 too.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  19. #1469
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    I asked Light Bicycle regarding making two DH rims hookless for me, and Nancy said she'd talk to the engineers.

    Given that Specialized is having great success with their hookless design, do you think I should give it a shot with these DH rims?


    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    The new 26" DH rims at 33mm wide and 30mm deep are clincher rims. They first intended to make them 35mm wide and hookless, but many people chimed in and since they mostly didn't knew any better, they asked for clincher instead of hookless. For myself, I didn't voted on these as I wasn't knowledgeable enough on rim bead to argue with the Internet genius. Since then I've been reading a lot about hookless designs and how tire/rim interface works and I would definitively go for hookless rim any time.

    I've been working all summer on bikes with hookless rims and I can tell you there is no need for a clincher hook at all. Plus hookless wall are easier and stronger to manufacture, plus make airing up a tire a snap and will self-center easier.

    Nancy told me that 29" hookless rims should be available end of September. I guess I won't be riding hookless for a little while since I'm on 26" and just got the new DH rims $$$.

    Btw my stuff should be here soon ! It just arrived at NYC and probably gonna get to my place by Monday.

  20. #1470
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    External dimensions are as described at their site. The whole spoke is 201mm and 202mm fullu threaded to the nipple as shown this image 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-nipple-thread.jpg

    the "correct one". Then the length between the spokes is 122.5mm to 123mm measured at 4 different sides. (I get an average of 122.75mm) of all 4 measurements.

    I'll do the string measurement as i get home from work in the afternoon. Also I'll get a friend with more experience measure the ERD and i'll post the results. Thanks everybody
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  21. #1471
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    just ordered a set of the 26 am 33mm wide rims.is the erd correct at 518? going to order spokes and wanted to make sure the erd is right.can anyone tell me if 12mm nipples are ok or do I need 14mm.any info would be great.

  22. #1472
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    518 was correct for mine, and I used DT Supercomp spokes with 15g aluminum nipples. I think 12 would be too big. 14 would be fine though.

  23. #1473
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    thanks for the info shred.the nipples I'm using are 15 gauge and 12mm long.i'm just wondering if they are long enough due to the thickness of the carbon at the spoke holes.
    did you use 12mm long nipples for your wheel build?

  24. #1474
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by 65mtn View Post
    thanks for the info shred.the nipples I'm using are 15 gauge and 12mm long.i'm just wondering if they are long enough due to the thickness of the carbon at the spoke holes.
    did you use 12mm long nipples for your wheel build?
    I had to use 12mm long nipples for mines since they were inserted through the valve hole and 14mm ones wouldn't have enough room to flip inside, but honestly if you can use 14mm alloy ones, it would make the tensioning a lot easier and less chance to round off the nipple under high tension. Also, the carbon can be quite thicker in some area and I wouldn't be surprised to see a +-1mm variation all around. And they sent me Pillar Hexagonal head 14g 12mm alloy nipples and these were useless because the head design made them sitting higher in the rim than regular round head and leaving about 1mm less sticking out, so I stripped many of them when I was getting to tension and it was a mess. 12mm brass round head ones where alright for me in 14g. Many wheel builder I spoke with were suggesting 14mm brass all around due to corrosion issue for year round ridding and for less wear on the nipple. Although it's gonna be pretty heavy, so if you're looking for weight saving, it's gonna kill you.

    Btw, I have 64pcs DT 12mm alloy gold nipples in 14g brand new for sale, since I went with brass instead. They are a good fit in these rims if you're looking for lightweight bling. Anyone interested PM me, asking $30, free shipping.

    Here's a look at how the 12mm DT gold ones and 12mm Pillar black ones are sticking out. Note how short the Pillar are due to the hex head.

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1388610884.944184.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  25. #1475
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    Use 12mm nipples.
    Keep the Country country.

  26. #1476
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    Yep, 12mm. Brass are too heavy for my liking. I live on the west coast, and even though I'm near the beach, I've never had a problem with corrosion or oxidation from salty air or Stan's sealant.

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    thanks for the info shredman.

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    Hi guys,

    What nipple length did you use on the 35mm wide rim with the inner bed 'un drilled' (full UST rim profile). The reason I ask is that LB just got back to me saying I need to use 11mm nipples? if the rim is left un drilled!.

  29. #1479
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    12mm nipples
    Keep the Country country.

  30. #1480
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Hi guys,

    What nipple length did you use on the 35mm wide rim with the inner bed 'un drilled' (full UST rim profile). The reason I ask is that LB just got back to me saying I need to use 11mm nipples? if the rim is left un drilled!.
    Something was lost in the translation. They must have meant 12mm.

  31. #1481
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    About the ERD issue i had, I've measured it again with sheldon brown's method and i got it at 520mm. I've put a friend to measure the ERD, he did it with the cutted spoke method and he found it to be 521mm. Today i went to a LBS to measure the ERD and he did measure it with the cutted spoke method. He got it 524mm. I'll order spokes for ERD 521 and hope not to be too long or too short.

    Thinking about Sapim double butted race spokes 2.0-1.8-2.0mm with aluminum nipples in blue colour, just for the bling factor.

    Is there any advantage, other than weight, with bladed spokes? (real life advantage and not marketing advantage).

    Edit : Also whoever built the 33mm wide rims with hope pro 2 evo's could please list the spoke lengths? And if the spoke were fully threaded to the nipple or just half way.
    Last edited by mak_kioy; 01-02-2014 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Add question
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  32. #1482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Hi guys,

    What nipple length did you use on the 35mm wide rim with the inner bed 'un drilled' (full UST rim profile). The reason I ask is that LB just got back to me saying I need to use 11mm nipples? if the rim is left un drilled!.

    The 35mm 650b hookless rim from LB is only 25mm deep as opposed to the 33 wide AM/DH 26" rim which is 30mm deep. Considering that the 35mm rim is 5mm shallower I would stick with what LB said on the 11mm nipple for an un drilled rim.

  33. #1483
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    Quote Originally Posted by mak_kioy View Post
    About the ERD issue i had, I've measured it again with sheldon brown's method and i got it at 520mm. I've put a friend to measure the ERD, he did it with the cutted spoke method and he found it to be 521mm. Today i went to a LBS to measure the ERD and he did measure it with the cutted spoke method. He got it 524mm. I'll order spokes for ERD 521 and hope not to be too long or too short.

    Thinking about Sapim double butted race spokes 2.0-1.8-2.0mm with aluminum nipples in blue colour, just for the bling factor.

    Is there any advantage, other than weight, with bladed spokes? (real life advantage and not marketing advantage).

    Edit : Also whoever built the 33mm wide rims with hope pro 2 evo's could please list the spoke lengths? And if the spoke were fully threaded to the nipple or just half way.
    I had my local bike shop order my spokes and lace them up to my Hope Pro2 EVO's. They confirmed and used the 518 ERD when they ordered the spokes and nipples. I don't remember the length so I'll have to call them and find out, but they were fully threaded into the nipple. They're closed now, but when I talk to them later, I'll find out.

  34. #1484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    The 35mm 650b hookless rim from LB is only 25mm deep as opposed to the 33 wide AM/DH 26" rim which is 30mm deep. Considering that the 35mm rim is 5mm shallower I would stick with what LB said on the 11mm nipple for an un drilled rim.
    Thanks Shredman69, you hit the nail on the head, it didn't click with me that the two rims were different depths!. I'm pretty gutted now to be honest, I really wanted these rims with a full UST rim bed like my Fulcrum Red Metal Zeros's

    I've had a quick squint on the net and couldn't see any 11mm nipples, I suppose I will have to go down the drilled and tape route.

    Here is a cross section of the 35mm 650B rim I modeled up to simulate the nipple access etc,(dims kindly supplied by LB) it looks doable with a 12mm nipple (aperture 13.25mm) if the tolerances are consistent around the rim and the ERD is true!
    Last edited by Muchas; 01-15-2014 at 04:02 AM.

  35. #1485
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    12mm is as short as nipples get. 13.25mm vertical space is so close I don't think there'd be room for my derailleur cable method. It's not that bad to have to use tape. It's 7g per rim and if you apply the tape well and then press it for an hour or so with an inflated tube I've never had a failure so it's pretty reliable.
    Keep the Country country.

  36. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    12mm is as short as nipples get. 13.25mm vertical space is so close I don't think there'd be room for my derailleur cable method. It's not that bad to have to use tape. It's 7g per rim and if you apply the tape well and then press it for an hour or so with an inflated tube I've never had a failure so it's pretty reliable.
    Well thanks for the advise, I think its going to be a taped rim then!. will place the order Monday, cant wait. I'm going with Sapim D-Light spokes and brass nipples unless I can be convinced otherwise.

    Cheers

  37. #1487
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    Sounds good, but if you want them lighter, and more bling, I'd get anodized aluminum nipples, just sayin. I've run them for over 20 years and never had issues with them.

  38. #1488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Well thanks for the advise, I think its going to be a taped rim then!. will place the order Monday, cant wait. I'm going with Sapim D-Light spokes and brass nipples unless I can be convinced otherwise.

    Cheers
    My advice is to have LB send you Pillar 1420 XTRA bladed spokes (same as DT Aerolite & Sapim CX-Ray) and alloy nipples. Buy a bladed spoke holding tool and eliminate wind-up. They're 50g per wheel lighter than 14/15 double butted but I don't know how that compares to Lasers. They are very stiff and strong.
    Keep the Country country.

  39. #1489
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    My advice is to have LB send you Pillar 1420 XTRA bladed spokes (same as DT Aerolite & Sapim CX-Ray) and alloy nipples. Buy a bladed spoke holding tool and eliminate wind-up. They're 50g per wheel lighter than 14/15 double butted but I don't know how that compares to Lasers. They are very stiff and strong.
    Just beware of those 12mm hex head alloy nipples (I think they were Pilllar), like I said previously, they don't offer much material for the spoke wrench and easily get damaged, a lot more than DT alloy ones. I think it's due to a shorter square area and taller head design. The Pillar bladed spokes were awesome though ! If only they would have sent me the right lengths in the first place, I wouldn't have go with the heavier Sapim Race spokes.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  40. #1490
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Just beware of those 12mm hex head alloy nipples (I think they were Pilllar), like I said previously, they don't offer much material for the spoke wrench and easily get damaged, a lot more than DT alloy ones. I think it's due to a shorter square area and taller head design. The Pillar bladed spokes were awesome though ! If only they would have sent me the right lengths in the first place, I wouldn't have go with the heavier Sapim Race spokes.
    Did you return the spokes?

    Thanks guys, I must admit I am Really tempted by those Pillar bladed spokes, they look sweet and would save some weight. The problem in the back of my mind is how accurate is the ERD? It should be 551 for the new version of the wide 650B and I can get away with 266mm spokes all round according to the DT Swiss calculator, BUT, if that 551 deviates by a couple of millimetres I'm stuck with 64 unwanted spokes

    Did you guys measure and compare your actual ERD against claimed?
    How accurate are these rims?

  41. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    My advice is to have LB send you Pillar 1420 XTRA bladed spokes (same as DT Aerolite & Sapim CX-Ray) and alloy nipples. Buy a bladed spoke holding tool and eliminate wind-up. They're 50g per wheel lighter than 14/15 double butted but I don't know how that compares to Lasers. They are very stiff and strong.
    Thanks for the spoke suggestion, I'm really interested and LB quoted me a good price!
    It's just the accuracy of the ERD that's bugging me ordering the spokes up front

  42. #1492
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Did you return the spokes?

    Thanks guys, I must admit I am Really tempted by those Pillar bladed spokes, they look sweet and would save some weight. The problem in the back of my mind is how accurate is the ERD? It should be 551 for the new version of the wide 650B and I can get away with 266mm spokes all round according to the DT Swiss calculator, BUT, if that 551 deviates by a couple of millimetres I'm stuck with 64 unwanted spokes

    Did you guys measure and compare your actual ERD against claimed?
    How accurate are these rims?
    Yes I was able to return the spokes, had to pay to ship them to a California based contact of theirs, but still was $16 out of my pocket because of their mistake. Worst case you could always have the Pillar spokes cut down at much as ~7mm shorter, but in my case they were too short already for one flange. You can always order them at least 2-3mm longer just in case and have a lbs roll more threads on if needed, just check locally first if any bike shop can do it, I was lucky enough to have one close-by, but that was like 1 out of 20 shops.

    I didn't measured ERD on mine, but using the provided ERD, my final spoke lengths were right on. I think you could expect some variation all around in the thickness of the rim though. Perhaps you could ask to confirm the ERD of both rims before they ship them ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  43. #1493
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Yes I was able to return the spokes, had to pay to ship them to a California based contact of theirs, but still was $16 out of my pocket because of their mistake. Worst case you could always have the Pillar spokes cut down at much as ~7mm shorter, but in my case they were too short already for one flange. You can always order them at least 2-3mm longer just in case and have a lbs roll more threads on if needed, just check locally first if any bike shop can do it, I was lucky enough to have one close-by, but that was like 1 out of 20 shops.

    I didn't measured ERD on mine, but using the provided ERD, my final spoke lengths were right on. I think you could expect some variation all around in the thickness of the rim though. Perhaps you could ask to confirm the ERD of both rims before they ship them ?
    Thanks DaveC, it looks like the ERD are coming out more consistent with the new manufacturing process then!, But, I will ask if they can measure my rims before shipping.....just to make sure!

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    Did you guys lace your rims with a 2x or 3x spoke pattern?
    Been reading up and a few wheel build pros have recommended 2x for less stress at the spoke hole in carbon rims!!

  45. #1495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Did you guys lace your rims with a 2x or 3x spoke pattern?
    Been reading up and a few wheel build pros have recommended 2x for less stress at the spoke hole in carbon rims!!
    I went 3x for a stiffer, stronger, flex free wheel.

  46. #1496
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    I went 3x for a stiffer, stronger, flex free wheel.
    I remember reading an article about the effect of different spoke lacing patterns over wheel stiffness and strength and turns out 2x or 3x don't make a single difference in stiffness or strength on a proper built and tensioned wheel. But I think 3x is easier to deal with when you're not expert at wheelbuilding.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  47. #1497
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Nvm.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  48. #1498
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I remember reading an article about the effect of different spoke lacing patterns over wheel stiffness and strength and turns out 2x or 3x don't make a single difference in stiffness or strength on a proper built and tensioned wheel. But I think 3x is easier to deal with when you're not expert at wheelbuilding.
    3x handles torque better. Like the torque created by big brakes, big grippy tires, and low gears. Definitely 3x 32 spoke for any AM wheel. Spoke hole issues haven't been at all common with these rims. Maybe non-existant?
    Keep the Country country.

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    Hey everyone, just got my light bicycle 26 in wider rims 26mm ID, 33 OD, laced to hadley's with dt swiss comps, I was thinking of doing sapim cxrays but my wheel builder said comps would be stiffer for the carbon wheel. Final build weight was around ~1600 grams. I mounted a 2.4 ardent up front and 2.2 conti mountain king rear.mmTires beaded up perfect on first try.

    I'll be doing a test ride soon when the rain lets up.

  50. #1500
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    I finally got my wide 26" rim mounted and finished. I used the wide Notubes yellow tape (23 or 25mm, whichever it is) and the 44mm Notube valve. With the compressor, the tire inflated quickly, and a few squirts of sealant took care of the bead leaks overnight. Rim is beefy, better finished than my first generation 26" LB rim and very stiff. Very happy with the purchase so far. I just have to make sure that I keep my tire sufficiently inflated when riding in the rocks.
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

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