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  1. #1401
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    I'm working on decals for my new wheels. To go along with my GT bike. Here's a few sketches.

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-gt_26.jpg
    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-2.png
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #1402
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    The wings look sweet!

  3. #1403
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    They look like little princess angel wings.

  4. #1404
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by beanbag View Post
    They look like little princess angel wings.

    Haha, yeah they do. I'm working on it. They are the GT wings logo.

    Also, got the wheels trued today. Tension on front disc side is around 110-120 and rear drive side is around 120-130. Couldn't eliminate all the radial run-out , but I'm thinking we should get the dial kit for the TS2.2 truing stand one day for that purpose. Still, they are very nice for being this inexpensive and considering I'm the one who built them. 9/10 on personal satisfaction scale.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  5. #1405
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Haha, yeah they do. I'm working on it. They are the GT wings logo.

    Also, got the wheels trued today. Tension on front disc side is around 110-120 and rear drive side is around 120-130. Couldn't eliminate all the radial run-out , but I'm thinking we should get the dial kit for the TS2.2 truing stand one day for that purpose. Still, they are very nice for being this inexpensive and considering I'm the one who built them. 9/10 on personal satisfaction scale.
    Very cool, but where are the pics??? Show that **** off man!!! Lets see em! Also, what hubs and spokes did u use and what do the wheels weigh?

  6. #1406
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Very cool, but where are the pics??? Show that **** off man!!! Lets see em! Also, what hubs and spokes did u use and what do the wheels weigh?
    I still haven't had the opportunity to take decent pics, i.e. somewhere without a messy background and with a good camera. I will do as soon as I can.

    I used the Novatec D881/D882 hubs, in black with the 9mm and 10mm thru-QR axles. Very stiff and they are so easy to always clamp down to the same tension so you don't mess up the rotor/pads alignment on your brakes. I never felt confident with skinny 5mm skewers holding my wheels. But they are heavy, 211g front and 436g rear, however they can be converted to any existing axle size and also to XX1 driver.

    Spokes are Sapim Race double-butted 14g in oxide black. About 360g for 64 spokes total. Heavier than the first supplied Pillar PSR X-TRA bladed spokes which were only 4.3g per spokes, but they were not the right length so I returned them. Would have saved almost 100g right here.

    Nipples are 12mm brass, half golf and half black, 60g total instead of 20g for alloy. Corrosion was a big issue, as I'll be ridding these year round and winters are very nasty in here.

    Rims are 380g each, drilled 32h and without holes on the rim bed, so no need to tape or seal for tubeless.

    Also mounted rear Magura Storm SL 140mm rotor and front Avid HS1 160mm rotor.

    Wheels without rotors and skewers are about 1820g total. Not light for a XC bike, but that's because of the heavy 4in1 hubs that will allow me to keep this wheelset around no matter the bikes or if I upgrade my fork to a 15mm axle, etc. The plan is actually to have this set go on my future AM bike and then build a second very lightweight set for my XC bike in a couple years when I'll have the luxury to buy a $2 400 hand-made frame haha
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  7. #1407
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I'm working on decals for my new wheels. To go along with my GT bike. Here's a few sketches.
    Unless GT is either paying for the wheels, or you are sponsored by them, I dont see why you would spend money advertising for them.

    Some other pattern in the blue would go well with your frame though.

  8. #1408
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    For manly wing designs, you might want to took at the honda logo, or various german logos, or various coat-of-arms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    My local bike shop uses 90 on normal aluminum wheels if that helps. You should be good to go with 100-110.
    I'm from aussie land and just wanted to clarify on the 100-110. is that in pounds?

  10. #1410
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloydo View Post
    I'm from aussie land and just wanted to clarify on the 100-110. is that in pounds?
    LOL, hell no!!! 100-100kgf, (kilogram force). If you did 100-110 foot pounds, that **** would break!

  11. #1411
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I used the Novatec D881/D882 hubs, in black with the 9mm and 10mm thru-QR axles. Very stiff and they are so easy to always clamp down to the same tension so you don't mess up the rotor/pads alignment on your brakes. I never felt confident with skinny 5mm skewers holding my wheels. But they are heavy, 211g front and 436g rear, however they can be converted to any existing axle size and also to XX1 driver.

    Spokes are Sapim Race double-butted 14g in oxide black. About 360g for 64 spokes total. Heavier than the first supplied Pillar PSR X-TRA bladed spokes which were only 4.3g per spokes, but they were not the right length so I returned them. Would have saved almost 100g right here.
    Change freehub and axle for alloy ones, and you will drop 136g.
    15mm front axle is lighter also (but requires matching fork & axle).

  12. #1412
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Mac_Aravan View Post
    Change freehub and axle for alloy ones, and you will drop 136g.
    15mm front axle is lighter also (but requires matching fork & axle).
    That's an idea. Perhaps later on when I have more bike money to spare.

    Also, updates on the decals :

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1386908304.063075.jpg

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1386908331.832338.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  13. #1413
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Hey I'm loving the GT wings, I've been a fan of GT from when I used to race BMX, I rode a GT pro.. that's enough reminiscing..lol

    I am just about to order these rim without the internal wall drilling (as per your rims) but I cannot find a convincing 'How to' to fish the nipples into position, can you please advise how you managed this, it would be much appreciated as this would be my first real wheel build.

  14. #1414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Hey I'm loving the GT wings, I've been a fan of GT from when I used to race BMX, I rode a GT pro.. that's enough reminiscing..lol

    I am just about to order these rim without the internal wall drilling (as per your rims) but I cannot find a convincing 'How to' to fish the nipples into position, can you please advise how you managed this, it would be much appreciated as this would be my first real wheel build.
    I used dental floss. Tie 2-3 knots on one end leaving ~1" floss at the end of the knot, and then slide a nipple on the floss. Drop the nipple in the valve hole and basically shake/rattle/roll it until you get all the way to 180 degrees from the valve hole. I fished the 1" floss end through the spoke hole with a thumbtack that I bent slightly at the tip to make a hook. Fish the nipple through the hole, screw in a spoke. Start all over. This will take you several hours, so take your time.

  15. #1415
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    I used dental floss. Tie 2-3 knots on one end leaving ~1" floss at the end of the knot, and then slide a nipple on the floss. Drop the nipple in the valve hole and basically shake/rattle/roll it until you get all the way to 180 degrees from the valve hole. I fished the 1" floss end through the spoke hole with a thumbtack that I bent slightly at the tip to make a hook. Fish the nipple through the hole, screw in a spoke. Start all over. This will take you several hours, so take your time.
    Thanks for the guide, can you tell me if the nipples are a loose fit in the rim holes? The more I think about the non drilled inner wall the more I want it. Was it hard to thread the last nipples onto the spokes with this technic as the spokes need to be within the rim hole as a final position, is it just a case of flexing the spokes enough to engage the nipple threads etc??

    I also want to order the Pillar spokes from LB at the same time as I haven't really heard any bad stories unless I am convinced otherwise.

  16. #1416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Thanks for the guide, can you tell me if the nipples are a loose fit in the rim holes? The more I think about the non drilled inner wall the more I want it. Was it hard to thread the last nipples onto the spokes with this technic as the spokes need to be within the rim hole as a final position, is it just a case of flexing the spokes enough to engage the nipple threads etc??

    I also want to order the Pillar spokes from LB at the same time as I haven't really heard any bad stories unless I am convinced otherwise.
    I don't follow what you're asking. You only need to thread the spoke onto a nipple merely to hold the nipple from falling back through the spoke hole. I did all the spokes and nipples FIRST, and then laced the wheel up to the hub one by one.

    Maybe I'm confused on your question.

  17. #1417
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    ..... and without holes on the rim bed, so no need to tape or seal for tubeless.
    Has anyone actually run these rims (in any width) tubeless without any rim tape?

  18. #1418
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Unless GT is either paying for the wheels, or you are sponsored by them, I dont see why you would spend money advertising for them.

    Some other pattern in the blue would go well with your frame though.
    For the same reason some people splatters HONDA decals all over their windshields and bumpers. Coz that's what I ride.

    And because I can get the decals made for free from a client of mine (as I'm a graphic designer).
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  19. #1419
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    Hey I'm loving the GT wings, I've been a fan of GT from when I used to race BMX, I rode a GT pro.. that's enough reminiscing..lol

    I am just about to order these rim without the internal wall drilling (as per your rims) but I cannot find a convincing 'How to' to fish the nipples into position, can you please advise how you managed this, it would be much appreciated as this would be my first real wheel build.
    Thanks. Here's a write-up I made in another thread about this. I believe my method to be faster than dental floss, averaging about 1-3 minutes per nipples, the closer to the valve hole, the faster it goes. Although I haven't tried dental floss.

    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Well to be honest it was more like 6 hours total for both wheels to install the nipples and lace them up.

    You can't really take pictures of how-to, but it's easy to explain. Just take a long derailleur cable with both ends cut clean, then solder the tips so they don't fray. Next you need cable crimps that you will cut open so you can slide them onto the cable and crimp them on and off later. Then you insert the cable trough the farthest spoke hole and push it in till you can see it by the valve hole. Proceed to grab the tip of the cable with needle nose pliers and pull it out off the rim by the valve hole. Pull enough cable so you can slide in a nipple and a crimp and pull everything back to seat the nipple in the hole, making sure the cable will be long enough not to be pulled back into the rim. Next tie a rubber-band around the nipple to prevent it from falling back into the rim. Then pull back the cable till the crimp comes out and remove the crimp by pinching it the opposite way you first pinched it. Then pull the cable back out from the nipple and start over again with the following farthest hole, etc. Also I put some lube on the nipple head before pulling it into the rim so it would lube the nipple seat on the rim. Use silicone or teflon lube on the cable if it doesn't slide easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  20. #1420
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by Muchas View Post
    I also want to order the Pillar spokes from LB at the same time as I haven't really heard any bad stories unless I am convinced otherwise.
    Just make sure they have the exact spoke lengths you'll need in stock before ordering the Pillar spokes. IMO, they are very nice bladed and lightweight spokes at a ridiculous low price. Just do your maths first to get the right length.

    Also, I first do all the nipples, then I lace the wheel. Otherwise you're always struggling with loose spokes everywhere. Also remember to use some spoke prep or at least lube on the threads.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  21. #1421
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by sclyde2 View Post
    Has anyone actually run these rims (in any width) tubeless without any rim tape?
    That's what I'm about to try tomorrow. I finished studding my winter tires today, so tomorrow I'm gonna mix some sealant and see how it goes. However I actually did a test at first a few weeks ago without sealant and the tire seated very nicely and held air for a few seconds, but since it's not a tubeless ready tire, it wasn't air tight.

    I think lelandjt actually already reported running these rims tubeless without any tape on his DH rig.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  22. #1422
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    Yup. Derailleur cable for installing nipples because its striffness is useful and no problems running tubeless without tape.
    Keep the Country country.

  23. #1423
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Well I said I didn't had any pictures. Not true, I have 2-3 pictures, but none actually showing how-to. Just from the progression.

    Here's with the rubber-bands holding the nipples in place.

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387124001.676636.jpg

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387124030.195017.jpg

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387124054.578890.jpg

    It is a whole lot easier to lace the wheel once the nipples are all in place. And if you have the right spoke length, I suggest to screw each newly laced spoke in with about 4-6 threads still visible on the spoke. If you just do 1-2 turns, you risk of having the nipple falling back on the rim because with all the shaking around it can unscrew itself.

    You might also have to drill a few of the spoke holes to the right diameter, has there might be some excess layup left inside the rim that will prevent the nipple from either flipping vertical to get in the hole or the hole being slightly too small for the nipple. Use a clean sharp drillbit and gauge each holes to make sure it goes in deep enough and the bore is clean and round.

    First thing I'd do before anything else would be to inspect the rim for any irregularities on the outside walls and inside bed, make sure it lays flat and no rough or filled-up resin patch. Then mount a tire on and confirm it seats correctly all around and easily. Also take clear pictures of the serial number, outside and inside of the rim, to have something to compared against if anything goes wrong later. Make sure the portion of the rim where they took out the bladder and installed a plug is solid and allows for enough room inside the rim to run the nipples and doesn't trap the cable.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  24. #1424
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Well I said I didn't had any pictures. Not true, I have 2-3 pictures, but none actually showing how-to. Just from the progression.

    Here's with the rubber-bands holding the nipples in place.

    It is a whole lot easier to lace the wheel once the nipples are all in place. And if you have the right spoke length, I suggest to screw each newly laced spoke in with about 4-6 threads still visible on the spoke. If you just do 1-2 turns, you risk of having the nipple falling back on the rim because with all the shaking around it can unscrew itself.

    You might also have to drill a few of the spoke holes to the right diameter, has there might be some excess layup left inside the rim that will prevent the nipple from either flipping vertical to get in the hole or the hole being slightly too small for the nipple. Use a clean sharp drillbit and gauge each holes to make sure it goes in deep enough and the bore is clean and round.

    First thing I'd do before anything else would be to inspect the rim for any irregularities on the outside walls and inside bed, make sure it lays flat and no rough or filled-up resin patch. Then mount a tire on and confirm it seats correctly all around and easily. Also take clear pictures of the serial number, outside and inside of the rim, to have something to compared against if anything goes wrong later. Make sure the portion of the rim where they took out the bladder and installed a plug is solid and allows for enough room inside the rim to run the nipples and doesn't trap the cable.
    Hey thanks, this is a great help, this pretty much answers one of my earlier questions about nipples in place, (but bear in mind I am a novice)
    Your comment on drilling out spoke holes scares me though. Did you find the nipples a snug fit in the rim holes.

    Has anyone seen the youtube clip by Fulcrum to replace one of their spokes, they demonstrate how they use a magnet to drag the nipple around the rim to the desired location, then screw in the spoke, took less than 10 seconds!. I'm thinking they must have a generous nipple to rim hole clearance. Hence I'm interested in how the LB rim holes size up.

  25. #1425
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Well it's official; Im feeling lucky today.

    Just mounted my new CST Critter 26x2.1 folding tires (wholesale $15 each, 580g) that I studded with 116 M3x8mm button head class 12.9 steel screws (116 screws adds about 60g to the tire), on my new tubeless carbon rims, using a presta valve from an old tube and the WSS homemade sealant (latex, antifreeze, Slime and water).

    Tires seated nicely and sealed up easily. Saved over 200g total on the wheelset from the 2.1 Maxxis tires that I was running with tube.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  26. #1426
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    The nipples were a close tolerance fit in the holes. No resistance but no slop. This is where the derailleur cable is usefull. if you hold the part coming out the hole vertically then push it a little from the valve hole end it bends inside the rim and orients the nipple vertically so it falls through.
    Keep the Country country.

  27. #1427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    The nipples were a close tolerance fit in the holes. No resistance but no slop. This is where the derailleur cable is usefull. if you hold the part coming out the hole vertically then push it a little from the valve hole end it bends inside the rim and orients the nipple vertically so it falls through.
    Thanks for the tip, I think I'll go for it, I am in no rush so I can take my time over the winter. I will keep you posted when they arrive...;-)

    Are people finding that the ERD is correct (within a small tolerance +/- 1mm)

  28. #1428
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Mine did from using the 518mm spec, the spokes were right on the money. Either I got lucky or they really are making these new DH rims up to specs.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  29. #1429
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    Does anyone know if LB is building the older 30mm carbon wheels without a drilled spoke bed?

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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by macming View Post
    Does anyone know if LB is building the older 30mm carbon wheels without a drilled spoke bed?
    You mean if they would build up the wheels for you (lace and true) on rims without rim bed holes ?

    For what I know, when I was ordering mines, it didn't appeared to be an issue for them to do it this way. Although I wouldn't trust them to do anything too fancy without being able to double-check all the steps yourself.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  31. #1431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    LBSs in general are not into the China direct stuff on the basis that they'll never make money from it and the stuff they sell is supposedly better and you get what you pay for. Enjoy the performance of these wheels but don't bother trying to convert people, especially people within the industry.

    I build LB wheels for myself and friends but don't talk about them while at work as an LBS mechanic. I'm well aware that what I use is better than anything we sell. I've seen tons of problems with wheels from Easton, Specialized, and Mavic yet all my LB wheels have been faultless except for one brass nipple I broke. It was easily replaced since my wheels don't use proprietary parts. Too bad it wasn't that easy for the Easton using racer I tried to help out at Xterra World Championships.
    You want to build up my wheels once l get the parts in? Really, l will ship them to you, pay you and whatever else you might want!

  32. #1432
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    Here's a few shots of mines after the first ride earlier this week. Yes, these are the new 26" 30mm wide DH rims, 380g and 32h, no rim bed holes, all brass 12mm gold and black nipples, black Sapim Race double-butted spokes and Novatec D881/882 hubs with the 9mm and 10mm thru-QR axles (the next best thing to a real thru-axle, since both the fork and frame are standard QR drop-outs). Mounted are CST Critter 26x2.1 folding tires with 116 studs each (only 650g per tire) and using homebrew sealant without rim tape. Wheels are 790g front and 1030g rear, without skewer, and total cost was under $800 (I screwed up on spoke lengths at first and bought alloy nipples that I ended up not needing, but I did all the labor myself).

    This is a 2000 GT XCR-3000, and the acceleration is phenomenal, even if the bike is at 30 pounds right now (new parts on their way to change that though) and stock wheelset was a bit heavier too.

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7605_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7632_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7631_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7630_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7624_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7623_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7620_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7619_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7617_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7611_web.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-_dsc7636_web.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  33. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    LBSs in general are not into the China direct stuff on the basis that they'll never make money from it and the stuff they sell is supposedly better and you get what you pay for. Enjoy the performance of these wheels but don't bother trying to convert people, especially people within the industry.

    I build LB wheels for myself and friends but don't talk about them while at work as an LBS mechanic. I'm well aware that what I use is better than anything we sell. I've seen tons of problems with wheels from Easton, Specialized, and Mavic yet all my LB wheels have been faultless except for one brass nipple I broke. It was easily replaced since my wheels don't use proprietary parts. Too bad it wasn't that easy for the Easton using racer I tried to help out at Xterra World Championships.
    Not trying to be mean...but when you don't have any assets to lose, you can take all the risks that you want.....there is a lot more to why bike shops won't sell these. You can make a profit, but you also need to figure out how to get rid of a lot of them....

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    And that's why our shop hasn't sold any off-brand Asian parts. Being in HI it would be cost effective to get bulk parts from the people you meet at Interbike's Chinatown but the ahop owner doesn't want to deal with liability or warranty hassles. He likes my LB wheelsets but we're doing well selling the Specialized wheelsets that are very similar but more expensive.

    Only the 33mm wide "DH" rim is capable of having an undrilled rim bed. The 30mm wide "AM rim doesn't have enough vertical space to flip the nipples.

    I don't know of anyones's asked LB to sell one of their complete DH rim wheelsets with undrilled rim beds ie: if LB is willing to do the blind lacing. Whether they'll do that or not and you have to use yellow tape no big deal, their prices are pretty reasonable for built wheels and with the Pillar bladed spokes and DT 240 or Novatec hub choices they have all the options I could ask for so ordering a built wheel from them would be cheaper than sending your parts to me on Maui to be built.
    Keep the Country country.

  35. #1435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    And that's why our shop hasn't sold any off-brand Asian parts. Being in HI it would be cost effective to get bulk parts from the people you meet at Interbike's Chinatown but the ahop owner doesn't want to deal with liability or warranty hassles. He likes my LB wheelsets but we're doing well selling the Specialized wheelsets that are very similar but more expensive.

    Only the 33mm wide "DH" rim is capable of having an undrilled rim bed. The 30mm wide "AM rim doesn't have enough vertical space to flip the nipples.

    I don't know of anyones's asked LB to sell one of their complete DH rim wheelsets with undrilled rim beds ie: if LB is willing to do the blind lacing. Whether they'll do that or not and you have to use yellow tape no big deal, their prices are pretty reasonable for built wheels and with the Pillar bladed spokes and DT 240 or Novatec hub choices they have all the options I could ask for so ordering a built wheel from them would be cheaper than sending your parts to me on Maui to be built.
    Do they do wheel builds with 240s hubs?

  36. #1436
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    Yes. I know the DT 240 is an option.
    Keep the Country country.

  37. #1437
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    Okay, I got the 33mm 26" rim with the holes drilled out. My LBS laced the wheel. I put a yellow tape last night, and mounted a tire and tube overnight. Converted them to tubeless today, but I have a leak somewhere that I have to investigate.

    Problem: the rim is much deeper than a normal rim and the 35mm valve from Notubes barely sticks out of the rim. I can barely inflate the tire with a regular floor pump.

    So, what are others using with the 33mm rim to make them tubeless?
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  38. #1438
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by zorg View Post
    Okay, I got the 33mm 26" rim with the holes drilled out. My LBS laced the wheel. I put a yellow tape last night, and mounted a tire and tube overnight. Converted them to tubeless today, but I have a leak somewhere that I have to investigate.

    Problem: the rim is much deeper than a normal rim and the 35mm valve from Notubes barely sticks out of the rim. I can barely inflate the tire with a regular floor pump.

    So, what are others using with the 33mm rim to make them tubeless?
    Get the 44 or 42, don't remember which they are, tubeless valves.

  39. #1439
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Get the 44 or 42, don't remember which they are, tubeless valves.
    I tried with 21mm yellow tape, but that's a bit narrow. I'm going to order the 25mm tape and the 44mm road valves. That should do the trick. Not looking forward to reinstalling all that crap. BTW, those rims have a tall bead, and they're the hardest I've ever used to install a tire on.
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  40. #1440
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    I used longer presta valve stems from old inner tubes I had, with a rubber grommet on the rim bed to keep it sealed and 2 valve nuts plus a washer on the outside to keep it tight and prevent loosening. I didn't had any tubeless valves on hand and didn't wanted to wait for them, so I went DIY. The only downside I see is more weight and fiddling, but was free and easy to do.

    I too had some sealing issues on the rim bead running non-ust folding tires with sealant, because the rim lip wasn't smooth at some places and was allowing the sealant and air to breach between the rim bead and tire bead with pressure over 30psi. Became stable at around 20-25, but down to 18, you could see many small breach appearing around. After about a week sitting at 20psi, both tires where down to 14 and 10 psi. I pumped them back up to 18 each and did a 3 hours ride in 0F today and it was great. I recon I'll never be able to seal them perfectly since the cheap CST folding tires aren't made for tubeless, but in my case it's not a big deal if I loose a few psi every week, as long as they don't burp on me at 15psi. I carry a spare tube and pump just in case one tire starts leaking badly, I'll just put a tube in and fix the leak back home.

    Now on the performance of the wheels themselves. I'm nowhere near a performance rider, but I can see a big difference in handling riding the same trails with the same bike with alloy wheels and with another bigger bike. This 4" bike handle the hard-packed snow trails even better than my 6" one, which have 2.4 tires on vs the small 2.1 I had on the carbon wheels today. The bike was eating all the pot-hole like feature of the snow trail and was staying on track a lot easier and also upright a lot longer than my other one. Made the whole bike felt like a AM rig, despite the 100mm travel frame. Acceleration was just awesome, but for some reason I couldn't maintain a good cruising speed even on the flat road, which makes me wonder if I'm either that much out of shape or just being used to very heavy wheels keeping their momentum, I find myself spinning too high of a gear on light wheels ?

    Anyway, they look and make the bike feel badass. No visible corrosion issue so far from winter riding (all brass nipples). After every ride, I wipe down the tires and wheels with a snow broom, then all the bike, then I shower the whole thing with hot water to melt down any salt and calcium left, then spin the drivetrain and bring the bike down my basement to let it dry till next time.

    Here's a look at it from today's ride. I've logged about 15 miles so far on the wheels and didn't inspected them closely yet, but them seem to have stayed pretty true and round, no noticeable wooble. When I reach 30 miles, I'll throw them back on the truing stand and check the tension and over-all alignment. If someone wants to have their wheels build up and are afraid of messing it up themselves, I can testify it's not hard at all to work with them. Even your local bike shop or wheelbuilder should be able to handle them without problem.


    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-dscn0365.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  41. #1441
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    I have decided that l want to build my wheels. I have learned to put bikes together and work on suspension successfully. Now l want to do wheels. I am confused on the size of spokes l need.
    I have---
    Profile Elite hubs 20mm front and 142x12 rears
    L-B 26in 33outer rims
    I am thinking of Cx rays or Revolution spokes. Still doing research on what is better for me.
    I was using the Prowheel Builders spoke calculator and l have some numbers but l am not sure enough to know what l have is right. Can someone help out with some numbers...please:-)

  42. #1442
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorg View Post
    Okay, I got the 33mm 26" rim with the holes drilled out. My LBS laced the wheel. I put a yellow tape last night, and mounted a tire and tube overnight. Converted them to tubeless today, but I have a leak somewhere that I have to investigate.

    Problem: the rim is much deeper than a normal rim and the 35mm valve from Notubes barely sticks out of the rim. I can barely inflate the tire with a regular floor pump.

    So, what are others using with the 33mm rim to make them tubeless?
    I had a hell of a time getting some UST tires installed & seated on these rims - it's worth it to invest in some large, quality plastic tire levers - but once they were seated, I got an immediate seal and have not lost even a molecule of air out of these things for months with 3 different tire combinations; I was able to use the same size tape and valves as I had on my stan's rims, but had very little valve sticking out - enough to use my compressor fitting and a mini trail pump, but had a hard time with a floor pump - probably worth it to get some longer valves since they pretty much last forever

  43. #1443
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    Re: 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Ordered the 25mm yellow tape and 44mm valves. Wheel looks great.

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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  44. #1444
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorg View Post
    I tried with 21mm yellow tape, but that's a bit narrow. I'm going to order the 25mm tape and the 44mm road valves. That should do the trick. Not looking forward to reinstalling all that crap. BTW, those rims have a tall bead, and they're the hardest I've ever used to install a tire on.
    Definitely usee the widest Notubes tape and this is important: Immediately after taping put a tube in and leave it inflated for an hour. That presses the tape down before the edges can start peeling up.
    Keep the Country country.

  45. #1445
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    Quote Originally Posted by panzer103 View Post
    I have decided that l want to build my wheels. I have learned to put bikes together and work on suspension successfully. Now l want to do wheels. I am confused on the size of spokes l need.
    I have---
    Profile Elite hubs 20mm front and 142x12 rears
    L-B 26in 33outer rims
    I am thinking of Cx rays or Revolution spokes. Still doing research on what is better for me.
    I was using the Prowheel Builders spoke calculator and l have some numbers but l am not sure enough to know what l have is right. Can someone help out with some numbers...please:-)
    Use CX-Rays or DT Aerolites and get a bladed apoke holding tool. Enter the hub and rim dimensions in the DT spoke calculator on DT's website to get spoke lengths.
    Keep the Country country.

  46. #1446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Definitely usee the widest Notubes tape and this is important: Immediately after taping put a tube in and leave it inflated for an hour. That presses the tape down before the edges can start peeling up.
    I did that with the 21mm tape, but the tape was clearly too narrow for the rim and there must be some air seeping under it. I'll redo it this w-e after I get the wider tape. Meanwhile, I'll put a tube in it. That rim is a beaut'
    Faster is not always better, but it's always more fun

  47. #1447
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Just asking but wasn't the point of the undrilled rim bed so you wouldn't have to bother with tape? Just curious. Anyone successfully gone tubeless without tape?

  48. #1448
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Just asking but wasn't the point of the undrilled rim bed so you wouldn't have to bother with tape? Just curious. Anyone successfully gone tubeless without tape?
    Yes and yes. Also makes you the cool kid on the block.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  49. #1449
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    Quote Originally Posted by zorg View Post
    Okay, I got the 33mm 26" rim with the holes drilled out. My LBS laced the wheel. I put a yellow tape last night, and mounted a tire and tube overnight. Converted them to tubeless today, but I have a leak somewhere that I have to investigate.

    Problem: the rim is much deeper than a normal rim and the 35mm valve from Notubes barely sticks out of the rim. I can barely inflate the tire with a regular floor pump.

    So, what are others using with the 33mm rim to make them tubeless?

    I used Fulcrum valve stems. They are longer and made in Italy and can be found at a lot of shops or online. Here's a pic of mine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  


  50. #1450
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Just asking but wasn't the point of the undrilled rim bed so you wouldn't have to bother with tape? Just curious. Anyone successfully gone tubeless without tape?
    Anyone ever in the history of tubeless wheels ever gone tubeless without tape? Or are you referring to just these LB carbon wheels?

    Either way, yes on both questions. I do both. UST rimsets are commonly sold with no rim holes drilled. My Easton Havoc's came that way.

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