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  1. #1701
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    Hey folks -

    OK, so now I truly do have a serious issue. I got both my tires mounted, Stan's thrown in, beads set, and inflated. Now to throw on my XX1 cassette. Wellllllll........I don't think this is right what LB put on my hub. The hub clearly says "For SRAM 11S", but the notch spacing isn't correct. Either that, or my XX1 cassette isn't correct (which doesn't seem to be the case, because all pics I can find online show the cassette has even spacing throughout the ring). The hub appears to have even spacing for like 90%, but then there's this one space where the notch is wider than all the rest. Can anyone just see from these pics which is wrong here: the hub driver or the cassette?

    Attachment 928887Attachment 928888Attachment 928889Attachment 928890Attachment 928891
    See how the ridge is narrower right next to where the slot is wider? That should make it so there is no real difference and the cassette should press o to the splines fine. There will be a slight gap there but it's not on the pressure side so no worries. Why Novatec put that wider gap/narrower spline I have no idea.
    Keep the Country country.

  2. #1702
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    So after a rough and fun fall ride under the rain today, I cracked my rear rim (33mm undrilled clincher rim) while riding home on the concrete border of the bike path and there was a 1' gap due to road work and my rear wheel hit the corner pretty hard (my rear shock was also overly stiff due to a leaking negative air chamber). It cracked only on the left side, didn't pinched the tube (yay) and about 1/2" along a 20° angle, maybe 1mm edge along the crack. I was able to make it home without problem and the wheel seems fine to keep riding, but I'll check it properly later on.

    Good news, I have a new hookless 33mm rim laying around from a warranty replacement (the rim plug failed on that same rim and I got LB to send me a new rim for it for $40 shipping), so I'll finally get to play around with hookless technology ! The damaged rim is most likely to be repaired and gonna keep it as a spare. I've been wondering what the heck I was gonna do with that spare hookless rim haha
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  3. #1703
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    33mm wide 26er, hookless, UD matte and 32H, with Yeti Turquoise decal

    I received my rims after 16 days and had them built by a local builder with a good reputation. However, he gave me the stink eye about the poor quality of the rims, especially around the ERD measurement. I had them built with black Hope Pro2 EVO hubs, black DT spokes and silver nipples, and Hope floating rotors.

    I had LB do the LB decal in Yeti turquoise and gave them the RBM code from the Yeti forum. As you can see, the rims are more green and the frame is more blue. Oh well, once the dust gets on the rims it won't matter. I used the 25 mm wide Gorilla tape, Stans sealant, and 44mm Stans road valves. My Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.3 UST tires mounted up with no problems. I was expecting to wrestle with them after reading some posts. I was really surprised at how beefy the tires look on the wider rim. I am a bit concerned about tire rub on the rear triangle but we'll see.

    I had problems with the spacing of the front hub. The XTR brake caliper won't center on the rotor and rubs on the inner pad. For some reason, the Hope hub and rotor are not the same width as the old XTR wheelset. I ultimately put some Shimano 6 bolt spacers between the rotor and the hub. After that, the rivets (I don't know what else to call them) on the Hope floating disc rubbed on the XTR post mount. I filed it down a bit and ultimately got it to work.

    I spent most of Sunday farting around with the brakes so no real ride report as of yet. The wheel builder did say he wants me to check in with him often so he can see how the wheelset is holding up.
    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-20141020_130509.jpg

  4. #1704
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    Stink eye, eh?! But he wants you to report back.......thinkin maybe he should get a set!

  5. #1705
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    That yeti looks sick!

  6. #1706
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    Stink eye may be a bit too strong but he was dubious about the quality and long-term durability. As noted in this thread, for $170 each I like this rim over the $1k Enve no doubt.
    Last edited by Tantrum; 10-21-2014 at 01:33 PM.

  7. #1707
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Stink eye maybe a bit too strong but he was dubious about the quality and long-term durability. As noted in this thread, for $170 each I like this rim over the $1k Enve no doubt.
    My LBS did the same to me when I brought mine in to build. Jerk offs. All they cared about was "what brand are these".... pretentious douche bags. I've never been back since. There will ALWAYS be a subset of consumers that, at their core, overpaying for a brand name is the only way you'll get a quality product. Those wheels look badass,

  8. #1708
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    Plus a friend of a friend has blown up 3 enve rims. I was dubious as well from the start but they have proven themselves to me as an excellent choice. Fact is everything seems to be going carbon and prices will continue to be blown out of proportion until the market fully embraces the technology. I met a guy who just bought carbon rotors for his & his sons downhill bikes - FOR @ $600 !!!! EACH SET!!

  9. #1709
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    My LBS did the same to me when I brought mine in to build. Jerk offs. All they cared about was "what brand are these".... pretentious douche bags. I've never been back since.
    There are to many LBS's that feel they are entitled to your money. Those are the shops I will never support

  10. #1710
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    You say he specifically mentioned the ERD. Did he say it was inconsistent? Did it not match the stated ERD? I've had no problem with spoke length using the stated ERD and DT spoke calculator.
    Keep the Country country.

  11. #1711
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    You say he specifically mentioned the ERD. Did he say it was inconsistent? Did it not match the stated ERD? I've had no problem with spoke length using the stated ERD and DT spoke calculator.
    Yes, inconsistent ERD. He said the spoke tension was not consistent for the spokes of the same length.

  12. #1712
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tantrum View Post
    Yes, inconsistent ERD. He said the spoke tension was not consistent for the spokes of the same length.
    No such problem with mine.

  13. #1713
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    Me neither. He's prob just trying to find something to gripe about. Sounds like he's reaching.
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  14. #1714
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    I will say however.......

    I was having a hell of a time getting tires on mine, and that is putting it VERY MILDLY )broke several tire levers). So I put tubeless tape on (running tubes) for their thin nature. And while looking at the rim standing on edge I noticed it seemed taller on one side than the other. Putting a level on it verified my observation. Measuring one side against the other backed it up. One side of my rim has a smaller diameter than the other. So installing the tire from the "short" side was MUCH easier. In fact I got it on without the use of a tire lever. I DID use a couple of other strategies not previously used as well.

  15. #1715
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    hi guys

    I'm using LB carbon rims for 2 years now
    on my DH and on my AM bikes.
    broke 4 rims already (always the rear rims).
    LB are great and sent me warranty rims (only paid for shipment )
    I see that now they have the wider hook-less rims.
    are they any stronger?
    do you have any ride time with them?
    do you race? ride fast enough to check if they are really stronger?
    I race. and brook the rims when using 35 PSI.... so its not a problem of low air pressure.

    thanks

  16. #1716
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by chrisingrassia View Post
    My LBS did the same to me when I brought mine in to build. Jerk offs. All they cared about was "what brand are these".... pretentious douche bags. I've never been back since. There will ALWAYS be a subset of consumers that, at their core, overpaying for a brand name is the only way you'll get a quality product. Those wheels look badass,
    Takes a lot of nerve for someone paying half price to get on a high horse when you try to save some dough.

  17. #1717
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    Re: 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by saruti View Post
    hi guys

    I'm using LB carbon rims for 2 years now
    on my DH and on my AM bikes.
    broke 4 rims already (always the rear rims).
    LB are great and sent me warranty rims (only paid for shipment )
    I see that now they have the wider hook-less rims.
    are they any stronger?
    do you have any ride time with them?
    do you race? ride fast enough to check if they are really stronger?
    I race. and brook the rims when using 35 PSI.... so its not a problem of low air pressure.

    thanks
    How much do you weigh? That's crazy, 4 wheels. I should learn to build wheels

  18. #1718
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    I weight 70kg
    I build my wheels. (and my friends wheels )

  19. #1719
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    Just an update on my wheels, 33mm AM hookless. I'd guess they have at least 1500 miles on them this year. Not a single issue, although i am sure to keep the rear near 30psi(front 28ish) as i ride pretty fast through rocky terrain. This is probably a good policy in my experience and not unique to carbon wheels.

    The wheels have been on all of the double diamonds at keystone bike park (3 days), trestle bike park(3 days), kokomo pass downhill, starvation and greens creek off of monarch, white ranch on a regular basis and Apex 3-4 times a week. Those of you on the front range in CO will probably know these trails but for those who dont, they are generally pretty chunky and fast trails. These wheels are not babied, i charge rock gardens without reservation.

    The wheels have exceeded my expectations and I will buy another set without hesitation whenever I need another set of rims built up.

  20. #1720
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    I built both of my wheels back in May of this year. AM 33mm hook-less
    I unfortunately cracked the sidewall of my front wheel during a relatively innocent rub with a rock. The rear on the other hand has held up quite nicely riding through rocky terrain and in Finale Ligure earlier this month. Rode the EWS trails and freeride/DH and the wheel works as good as ever (needs some slight truing though).

    I contacted LB concerning my front wheel and they were adamant not to warranty it or consider a crash replacement. I was pretty disappointed because it was really not a big hit whatsoever. I replaced it with a Syntace 40mm wheel and it served me super well in Finale and till now (less than a month old)
    Unless my rear wheel survives at least 2 years, I will not be buying LB/Carbon rims again. I weigh 75kg and not really fast

  21. #1721
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    Quote Originally Posted by mahrous View Post
    I built both of my wheels back in May of this year. AM 33mm hook-less
    I unfortunately cracked the sidewall of my front wheel during a relatively innocent rub with a rock. The rear on the other hand has held up quite nicely riding through rocky terrain and in Finale Ligure earlier this month. Rode the EWS trails and freeride/DH and the wheel works as good as ever (needs some slight truing though).

    I contacted LB concerning my front wheel and they were adamant not to warranty it or consider a crash replacement. I was pretty disappointed because it was really not a big hit whatsoever. I replaced it with a Syntace 40mm wheel and it served me super well in Finale and till now (less than a month old)
    Unless my rear wheel survives at least 2 years, I will not be buying LB/Carbon rims again. I weigh 75kg and not really fast
    I had my rear 33mm hookless DH rim crack on a minor impact. I could see the rim cracking in the impact area, but to split on both sides. Needs more bonding agent IMHO.
    I think I finally am getting LB to warranty it after numerous emails and rants.
    It was on a DH bike running around 32 psi range.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-1008140815.jpg  

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  22. #1722
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    well... it looks like you need more luck then strength with this rims....

  23. #1723
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    What worries me is I weigh 230 lbs.

  24. #1724
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by blcman View Post
    I had my rear 33mm hookless DH rim crack on a minor impact. I could see the rim cracking in the impact area, but to split on both sides. Needs more bonding agent IMHO.
    I think I finally am getting LB to warranty it after numerous emails and rants.
    It was on a DH bike running around 32 psi range.
    Yep, that's what mine looks like. However, truth be told i can take a lot of the blame. Low pressure, square edged hit. That said, if it was an AL rim I'd have dented it so I'm not necessarily saying carbon is worse.

    Ultimately it comes to this...generally speaking, the same event will cause carbon to crack or AL to dent. We each need to decide for ourselves if the benefits of a lighter, stiffer carbon rim outweigh the extra expense of replacing it.

  25. #1725
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    They told me 515 also. My LBS will confirm it before they build them. I'll let u know when I find out.
    Still eagerly awaiting confirmation of ERD on these 38mm rims. Is it truly 510mm?

    Thanks for your time!

    Andy

  26. #1726
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrull View Post
    Still eagerly awaiting confirmation of ERD on these 38mm rims. Is it truly 510mm?

    Thanks for your time!

    Andy

    My 38's are laced up already. I didn't ask my builder what the ERD was, but they used 248mm spokes. That's DT Supercomps laced to alloy nips and Hope's. I'm just waiting for my AC valve stems now. The wheel set came out to 1630g for the pair.
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  27. #1727
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    My 38's are laced up already. I didn't ask my builder what the ERD was, but they used 248mm spokes. That's DT Supercomps laced to alloy nips and Hope's. I'm just waiting for my AC valve stems now. The wheel set came out to 1630g for the pair.
    Perfect info. Thanks. That matches 510mm ERD.

    Cheers,

    AK

  28. #1728
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    Quote Originally Posted by akrull View Post
    Perfect info. Thanks. That matches 510mm ERD.

    Cheers,

    AK
    NP, glad to help.
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  29. #1729
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    Ibis Mojo with LB wheels

    I've had my new LB wheels on the bike for several weeks now, but the evaluation has been interrupted by my 3 week cycling trip in Northern Vietnam.

    The need for wider wheels on the Ibis Mojo Lefty was sparked by my experience with my new Lynskey Pro650 Ti hardtail which I built up with American Classic Wide Lightning 32mm wide wheels. Combined with Maxxis Ikon 2.3 tyres with huge volume, these wheels were a revelation in plush precision, while running only 18/20psi for my 80kg weight. I just had to get wide rims on the Mojo and as AM don't make 26inch Wide Lightnings I went to LB.

    The LB experience was very good, with Carolin replying promptly and patiently to my ever-changing requests over nearly 4 months of emails. Eventually I decided on 33mm wide tubeless (ie no spoke holes internally), hookless rims, glossy 3K finish, Circus Monkey Lefty front hub, Novatech D712 rear hub, 32 holes with Pillar Aero spokes, red alloy nipples. The wheels were built and dispatched in the time anticipated. Cost was $771 including freight and the Paypal 3.5% which LB charges back, $683 for the wheels alone.

    The wheels were well packed and I was impressed by their lightness and their burly appearance. The weave is beautifully applied with a nearly invisible seam. Weight is 1470g, a reduction of 324g less than the Mavic X819/ Sun Ringle /Cannondale Omega wheels they are replacing.

    I initially fitted them with used WTB Weirwolf 2.3 tyres and had trouble getting the beads to go over the rim in spite of plenty of soap and effort. I eventually resorted to a Michelin plastic lever which worked fine and did not leave any marks. The rim edges are quite thick and very strong. Must remember to take a lever on rides, because inserting a tube after a puncture will be impossible otherwise.

    The beads snapped in with loud bangs once the compressor cut in. The rims held pressure with no latex for a couple of days while I sourced 44mm long Stans tubeless valves (the normal valves I had are too short for the depth of the rims). Tyre width increased by only a couple of mm but once finished and fitted to the bike the wheels looked huge, very black and very shiny. Impressive to say the least. Noise from the Novatech hub is refreshingly minimal compared with the loud buzz produced by the Sun Ringle.

    I had been riding the old wheels on local singletrack to imprint the feel so that I could make an accurate comparison with the new wheels. However Nature had different ideas and a period of heavy rain then completely altered the track characteristics.

    Using initial pressures of 22/24, the different feel of the bike still shone through, the front being much more solid and easier to lean on in the corners without washing out and running wide. The bike turns better and accelerates faster. The Ibis Mojo is already a very plush bike, but the greater air volume and the more supportive sidewalls gave an additional softness which was very evident. Softer and yet more solid: can this be possible? Grip seems infinite, much better whether clawing up rock steps or heading down over loose rocky track.

    I noticed that the 2.3 Ikon measures nearly 15mm more than the 2.35 Weirwolf across the tread, bead to bead. This translates into even more volume so I fitted fatty Ikons . This has improved handling again, with lowered pressures and more steering accuracy.

    I am convinced that wide rims, especially on a 27.5 wheel, will be the future standard and will negate the need for 29ers altogether except for XC racing. Who know what the eventual ideal width will be? Bill Shook of AM says no greater than 32mm but Ibis and Derby have gone with 40mm wide.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-lb-ikons.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-mojo-wheels.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-lb-wheel.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-lb-rim.jpg  


  30. #1730
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    My new 38's 1630g for the pair, (without tires of course). Nice and wide, looks like MX tires on them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

    Last edited by Shredman69; 10-26-2014 at 03:20 PM.
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  31. #1731
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    My order for NEXTIE bike 26in and 29in 35mm wide hookless rims came in yesterday (for a friend and myself). Quality looks amazing.

    I went ahead and made ERD measurements on both versions, and the website listed ERD was 100% accurate (my ERD measuring setup only uses 12mm nipples, so the ERD listed on the website already has accurate measurements for 14mm nipples).

    Sorry for the potato pic (and the angle looks funny, I promise the measurements are from opposing spoke holes....looks shifted here).

    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-17igvze.jpg
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  32. #1732
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    Hi again, I now have 10 rides on these rims and could not be happier. They feel really fast compared to my old XTR wheels. Now that they are dusty, the slight color variation from the frame to the rims is not noticeable. Flex is still an issue with the rear end but I hope to solve that with DT Swiss RWS Thru-Bolt Skewers front and rear. I started with a PSI of 27 as that is what I used on the XTRs and never had a problem with denting the scandium rims. I'm now down to 23 and will probably experiment lower as I have had no harsh hits. I've ridden some pretty rocky sections of track with square edged rocks and not had any problems. I've had quite a few rocks kick up and hit the rear rim with some minor cosmetic chipping. Now that I know the Nobby Nics mount so easily, I'll probably be more diligent in checking the rims for cracks and delamination.

  33. #1733
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    I should be ordering a set of the nextie 40s the first week of December. I'm going to get the dh version as I'm about 6'3 & 245. I got my hubs this week. I'm using a dt swiss 350 rear and a spank 20mm front. I would really like to pre-order the spokes so I can lace them up as soon as I get back in town. Of the guys who have bought these rims how accurate is the erd

  34. #1734
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim300wsm View Post
    I should be ordering a set of the nextie 40s the first week of December. I'm going to get the dh version as I'm about 6'3 & 245. I got my hubs this week. I'm using a dt swiss 350 rear and a spank 20mm front. I would really like to pre-order the spokes so I can lace them up as soon as I get back in town. Of the guys who have bought these rims how accurate is the erd

    I haven't used the 40s specifically, but both the 29in and 26in wheels I have ordered from Nextie Bike have had 100% accurate ERD measurements (the 35mm wide rims hookless rims). So just plug em in and order spokes.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  35. #1735
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    maybe I missed something along the way but can anybody comment on light-bicycles vs. nextie?

  36. #1736
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    Quote Originally Posted by raschaa View Post
    maybe I missed something along the way but can anybody comment on light-bicycles vs. nextie?
    I haven't used LB personally, but after reading this whole thread, and other threads, I have heard a lot less about failures with regards to Nextie rims. That plus their website being nicer, and their response time to emails being much faster...I went with Nextie.

    Do not regret it so far. Only have about 50 miles on my rims however.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  37. #1737
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    Nextie has a better warranty as well

  38. #1738
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    I need to get my hands on some 40 mm but its more cost effective for me to have them build the rim. . so far only lb ships them out built.

  39. #1739
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    4th ride on my Nextie 35mm hookless carbon wheelset I built up. I9 rear hub, BHS front hub. Sapim Race spokes, brass nipples. Burly yet light.

    So far my first build is still 100% true and the wheelset is amazing. These pig heavy tires don't help, but once I wear through em I will grab some 2015 Nobby Nic's and lose another pound of rotational weight. But it is winter now and I need some traction in the sludge.

    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  40. #1740
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    Received an email from light bicycle. They are having a sale on wheels if u buy in #s. The more the better discount. $10 off 2-4 per wheel. $20 off. Etc up to $40 off per wheel. Great to do a group buy on a large order of local guys. Split shipping. It'll be even cheaper!

  41. #1741
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    [QUOTE=y0bailey;11587271]4th ride on my Nextie 35mm hookless carbon wheelset I built up. I9 rear hub, BHS front hub. Sapim Race spokes, brass nipples. Burly yet light. So far my first build is still 100% true and the wheelset is amazing. These pig heavy tires don't help, but once I wear through em I will grab some 2015 Nobby Nic's and lose another pound of rotational weight. But it is winter now and I need some traction in the sludge.




    What was your wheel weight without tires?
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  42. #1742
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    [QUOTE=Shredman69;11587497]
    Quote Originally Posted by y0bailey View Post
    4th ride on my Nextie 35mm hookless carbon wheelset I built up. I9 rear hub, BHS front hub. Sapim Race spokes, brass nipples. Burly yet light.

    So far my first build is still 100% true and the wheelset is amazing. These pig heavy tires don't help, but once I wear through em I will grab some 2015 Nobby Nic's and lose another pound of rotational weight. But it is winter now and I need some traction in the sludge.

    What was your wheel weight without tires?
    Right around 1600 grams. I used the XC/AM rim for the front, and the AM rim for the back.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  43. #1743
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    [QUOTE=y0bailey;11587502]
    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post

    Right around 1600 grams. I used the XC/AM rim for the front, and the AM rim for the back.
    Nice! My LB 38's came out at 1620, but my LB 33's were 1520.
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Has anyone successfully repaired or "patched" a carbon forger rim sidewall crack due to a hit on a rock (or concrete square angle sidewall for my matter) ? I'll have to relace a new rim, since I wanna run tubeless, but I'd like to keep the old rim and built it into a commuting wheel or something like that, since it's obviously not about to fail and only needs a "carbon band-aid"
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Help! I've just got my LB 38's (32mm inner, 32mm depth) enduro downhill mtb 26er carbon rims 38mm wide hookless tubeless compatible strongest Light-Bicycle
    and can't find any tubeless valves long enough!
    I found some tubes with 48mm valves to get me riding, but desperately want to go tubeless!
    I have the longest 40-something valves from CRC but they both came in too short.

    Anyone solved this problem before?
    As a last resort I can cannibalise some tubes for the valves but they don't have removal valves.

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    Get some valve extensions. Most are smooth outers but there are some which are threaded so you can tighten it down against the rim outside. Can't remember who make them but I know Hargrove cycles sell them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ruscle View Post


    1pr Black 48mm Speed Evolution Alloy Tubeless Valve Stem Presta Removable Core | eBay


    I have those and they work amazingly well.
    X-prezo Super-D, 26in style.

  49. #1749
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    Quote Originally Posted by MinNZ View Post
    Help! I've just got my LB 38's (32mm inner, 32mm depth) enduro downhill mtb 26er carbon rims 38mm wide hookless tubeless compatible strongest Light-Bicycle
    and can't find any tubeless valves long enough!
    I found some tubes with 48mm valves to get me riding, but desperately want to go tubeless!
    I have the longest 40-something valves from CRC but they both came in too short.

    Anyone solved this problem before?
    As a last resort I can cannibalise some tubes for the valves but they don't have removal valves.


    American Classic or WTB both make 48mm long tubeless valve stems. Just go on eBay and search it. I run the American Classics.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  

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  50. #1750
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Has anyone successfully repaired or "patched" a carbon forger rim sidewall crack due to a hit on a rock (or concrete square angle sidewall for my matter) ? I'll have to relace a new rim, since I wanna run tubeless, but I'd like to keep the old rim and built it into a commuting wheel or something like that, since it's obviously not about to fail and only needs a "carbon band-aid"
    I cracked a sidewall kinda bad but not too bad. I dripped a lot of superglue in it and put a c-clamp on overnight. I then finished the enduro on it but replaced it when I got home. It's now a spare that will be used if I destroy a rim and am waiting for a replacement. Obviously every instance is different so use your judgement but in general epoxy or glue of some kind and squeezing delaminated layer together is the fix. I've never seen a rim professionally repaired like carbon frames are.

    P.S. This was on a hookless rim so the c-clamp was just pushing 2 flat surfaces together. It's gonna be a lot trickier with the thinner and weirder shaped hooked sidewall.
    Keep the Country country.

  51. #1751
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    Thanks, that's in the ballpark of what I thought trying to fix the rim. I think I would use a strap and ratchet clamping instead of the c-clamp with a stiff support to even the rim wall pressure. I'll check the superglue/epoxy stuff I have. I also have fiberglass resin, maybe I could stick a patch of fiberglass and resin over the fix afterward ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  52. #1752
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    after fixing a carbon rim, when you inflate the tire, it can make the rim un even.
    so do all the truing after you inflate it.

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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Thanks for the head-up.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  54. #1754
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Has anyone successfully repaired or "patched" a carbon forger rim sidewall crack due to a hit on a rock (or concrete square angle sidewall for my matter) ? I'll have to relace a new rim, since I wanna run tubeless, but I'd like to keep the old rim and built it into a commuting wheel or something like that, since it's obviously not about to fail and only needs a "carbon band-aid"
    I need to do this as well. I was going to use JB Weld, clamp what I could and then sand it down until it matches the intact sections. I really like JB Weld.
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    Hi Shredman, I have a doubt that you can resolve I think:

    I want to purchase for a LB wheelset to mount on my Ibis mojo 160 26". What kind of width rim do you recomend me?

    38mm - 31.6mm inner ?
    33mm - 27 mm inner ?

    Now I saw that Ibis Wheels are made with 41mm - 35mm inner , and they put a smaller tyre, because the wide rim gives more volume to the wheel. They say this is a setup for AM/Enduro riding... But I don't know.

    For riding AM/Enduro and a couple times in Bikepark on summer, what type of wheel do you think is the best choice for me? I am 70kg weight.

    (Sorry for my english, I am improving...)

    Many thanks!

    jmz

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi Shredman, I have a doubt that you can resolve I think:

    I want to purchase for a LB wheelset to mount on my Ibis mojo 160 26". What kind of width rim do you recomend me?

    38mm - 31.6mm inner ?
    33mm - 27 mm inner ?

    Now I saw that Ibis Wheels are made with 41mm - 35mm inner , and they put a smaller tyre, because the wide rim gives more volume to the wheel. They say this is a setup for AM/Enduro riding... But I don't know.

    For riding AM/Enduro and a couple times in Bikepark on summer, what type of wheel do you think is the best choice for me? I am 70kg weight.

    (Sorry for my english, I am improving...)

    Many thanks!

    jmz
    I'm running 33mm LB wheels on my HDR
    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-20141110_221634.jpg26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-20141110_221804.jpg

    Your tire/wheel clearance on the Mojo with a 41mm size is going to push it. It's a tight fit on mine with 2.4's in that rear triangle

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    oww this mojo is amazing!

    Which tyres are you setting up?

    It's correct to think this? :

    Wider rim (31.6mm inner) = more tyre volume = Can put 2.3" tyre and will be like 2,5" with less weight, so you can climb as fine as 27mm wide rim, with much grip on descending.

    So, 31.6mm is better than 27mm in all aspects?

    Thanks!

  58. #1758
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    oww this mojo is amazing!

    Which tyres are you setting up?

    It's correct to think this? :

    Wider rim (31.6mm inner) = more tyre volume = Can put 2.3" tyre and will be like 2,5" with less weight, so you can climb as fine as 27mm wide rim, with much grip on descending.

    So, 31.6mm is better than 27mm in all aspects?

    Thanks!
    2.4 Conti trail kings on 33mm LB rims. I'll let someone else chime in on all your calculations, too much math for me to be honest. For AM/Enduro riding though, I wouldn't go with less than the 33mm wide rims.

  59. #1759
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi Shredman, I have a doubt that you can resolve I think:

    I want to purchase for a LB wheelset to mount on my Ibis mojo 160 26". What kind of width rim do you recomend me?

    38mm - 31.6mm inner ?
    33mm - 27 mm inner ?

    Now I saw that Ibis Wheels are made with 41mm - 35mm inner , and they put a smaller tyre, because the wide rim gives more volume to the wheel. They say this is a setup for AM/Enduro riding... But I don't know.

    For riding AM/Enduro and a couple times in Bikepark on summer, what type of wheel do you think is the best choice for me? I am 70kg weight.

    (Sorry for my english, I am improving...)

    Many thanks!

    jmz



    I have both and really love both. As long as you have clearance you can run either. I use my 33's for AM and I use my 38's for parks or knarley DH. The 33's are about 50g per rim lighter than the 38's so 100 lighter for the set. You can use either one and you can't go wrong with either one.
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    Question to those that might know? Looking at buying a front and building it up for mainly XC and trail riding on my 29 HT. I'm a big guy (220lbs) but not into big air, maybe occasional 1-2 ft drops but even those are usually cause I wasn't paying attention. I want better traction on the downhill and was thinking the wider rim might be the answer.
    Currently run Stan's Arch and tried a larger Continental up front and loved the grip but not the weight.
    So question is will these work for me? Any comments or suggestions? I'm looking at the the AM rims for a bit more strength.

  61. #1761
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Dad View Post
    Question to those that might know? Looking at buying a front and building it up for mainly XC and trail riding on my 29 HT. I'm a big guy (220lbs) but not into big air, maybe occasional 1-2 ft drops but even those are usually cause I wasn't paying attention. I want better traction on the downhill and was thinking the wider rim might be the answer.
    Currently run Stan's Arch and tried a larger Continental up front and loved the grip but not the weight.
    So question is will these work for me? Any comments or suggestions? I'm looking at the the AM rims for a bit more strength.
    38mm is pretty big. I have 33mms and they are plenty wide


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    Has somebody mounted 2.3 tyres like maxxis minion on a 38mm (31.6 inner) bike?

    How does it feel? Can climb and roll fast on ascends?

    I think 2.5 tyre on 38mm rim will push up my rear triangle

  63. #1763
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Has somebody mounted 2.3 tyres like maxxis minion on a 38mm (31.6 inner) bike?

    How does it feel? Can climb and roll fast on ascends?

    I think 2.5 tyre on 38mm rim will push up my rear triangle
    Yes. The 2.3 minion on a 38mm is a great combo. The minion super tacky is my all time favorite tire, However, beware the single ply. I had a few punctures last year that cost me an entire race weekend. If the carcass was a little thicker it would be the only tire I ever bought. The rounded profile is perfect for the new, wide rim movement.

  64. #1764
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Has somebody mounted 2.3 tyres like maxxis minion on a 38mm (31.6 inner) bike?

    How does it feel? Can climb and roll fast on ascends?

    I think 2.5 tyre on 38mm rim will push up my rear triangle

    What r u using it for? Unless your using it for XC, I wouldn't run the 2.35's. The minions run a little small and on the 38 tend to flatten the profile. If u want to run minion's, I would go with a DHF 2.5 front and rear. More traction, more cush better handling.
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  65. #1765
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim

    I finally had my hookless 33mm rim laced to replace the first gen 33mm rear rim that cracked last summer. The rim has a slightly better finishing than the clincher one, I would guess the solid rim beads are easier to manufacture and cleaner to do too. However, the hookless rim has a bigger ERTO than the ones I had, because the same tire fits very tightly, to the point where I can't even rotate the tire on the rim, even when it's in the middle channel. The tire did air up very nicely (using mold latex and homebrew sealant) and seated right away. I have an amateur snow race on sunday where I'll try it out, should be fun !
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  66. #1766
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    What r u using it for? Unless your using it for XC, I wouldn't run the 2.35's. The minions run a little small and on the 38 tend to flatten the profile. If u want to run minion's, I would go with a DHF 2.5 front and rear. More traction, more cush better handling.

    Hi guys! I already have my LB 38mm 26". I only ride it once time on mud conditions but I feel the front wheel is too weight, but it is lighter than my old front wheel.. Is this for the flatten profile? I ride with minions 2.3 .
    Is there another tyre with more rounded profile and same weight?

    thanks!
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    some photos
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    26in chinese carbon all mountain rim-image.jpg  


  68. #1768
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi guys! I already have my LB 38mm 26". I only ride it once time on mud conditions but I feel the front wheel is too weight, but it is lighter than my old front wheel.. Is this for the flatten profile? I ride with minions 2.3 .
    Is there another tyre with more rounded profile and same weight?

    thanks!
    Lol, your joking right? It's heavy from the mud!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Lol, your joking right? It's heavy from the mud!
    haha noo I felt this before riding into the mud ,

    I will try another time this weekend. I think I'll need some rides to get used with this wheels, never used tubeless and low presures before

  70. #1770
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    haha noo I felt this before riding into the mud ,

    I will try another time this weekend. I think I'll need some rides to get used with this wheels, never used tubeless and low presures before

    What pressure are u running? I weigh about 175-180 geared up and I run 20-22 up front and 26-28 in the back.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    What r u using it for? Unless your using it for XC, I wouldn't run the 2.35's. The minions run a little small and on the 38 tend to flatten the profile. If u want to run minion's, I would go with a DHF 2.5 front and rear. More traction, more cush better handling.
    +1
    Most 2.4's / 2.5's tyres are designed for narrower rims so designs with a rounded crown work better.
    I am running 38's with Minion 2.5 DHF and it's perfect match.
    I am now also running 2.35 Hans Dampf (ironically a bit wider than the Minion) on the rear and also very happy with it, blew on easy with a hand pump.

    Note to those questioning 33 or 38, and whether 38's would fit: some of my tyres have actually measured narrower on the wide rims, depending on the 'edge knob' shape and location on the tyre carcass.

  72. #1772
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    Maxxis Minion 2.5 problem fitting light bicycle carbon rim

    Has anyone used Maxxis Minion DHF Supertacky UST 2.5 on 26" Light Bicycle carbon rims? I had to fight to get it on the rim and using clamps was the only way to squeeze it on. Then I used up to 100psi initial pressure to try to get it to pop up from the rim inner channel onto the bead channels but the diameter of the tire just seems a little too small and I couldn't get it to seat in the bead channels all the way around. I easily mounted a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Specialized Butcher SX 2.3, and Specialized Purgatory 2.2 tires on the same rim. The rim I have is their "all mountain" (33mm outer 27mm inner). The Minion was not a new tire as I've had it mounted on Roval Traverse (aluminum) and Roval Traverse SL (carbon) rims in the past and it's been used for about 15 to 20 days at the downhill park so I would think it would be stretched a little. Has anyone else had similar problems?

  73. #1773
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb123hou View Post
    Has anyone used Maxxis Minion DHF Supertacky UST 2.5 on 26" Light Bicycle carbon rims? I had to fight to get it on the rim and using clamps was the only way to squeeze it on. Then I used up to 100psi initial pressure to try to get it to pop up from the rim inner channel onto the bead channels but the diameter of the tire just seems a little too small and I couldn't get it to seat in the bead channels all the way around. I easily mounted a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Specialized Butcher SX 2.3, and Specialized Purgatory 2.2 tires on the same rim. The rim I have is their "all mountain" (33mm outer 27mm inner). The Minion was not a new tire as I've had it mounted on Roval Traverse (aluminum) and Roval Traverse SL (carbon) rims in the past and it's been used for about 15 to 20 days at the downhill park so I would think it would be stretched a little. Has anyone else had similar problems?

    I have the 33's and 38's and I've had 2.5 Minnion DHF EXO's, (not the UST) on both rims with no problems. Are they steel bead or folding? Maybe the UST's are tighter since they use more rubber on the casing. Did u try some soap and water on the beads during mounting? Before I mount the tires, I let them, (the tires, not the rims) heat up in the sun so the rubber expands and becomes more plyable. Just curious, why UST? They're heavier than the tubeless ready EXO ones. Be careful with the rims and that much pressure too. They have a 80 PSI max rating.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb123hou View Post
    Has anyone used Maxxis Minion DHF Supertacky UST 2.5 on 26" Light Bicycle carbon rims? I had to fight to get it on the rim and using clamps was the only way to squeeze it on. Then I used up to 100psi initial pressure to try to get it to pop up from the rim inner channel onto the bead channels but the diameter of the tire just seems a little too small and I couldn't get it to seat in the bead channels all the way around. I easily mounted a Maxxis Ardent 2.4, Specialized Butcher SX 2.3, and Specialized Purgatory 2.2 tires on the same rim. The rim I have is their "all mountain" (33mm outer 27mm inner). The Minion was not a new tire as I've had it mounted on Roval Traverse (aluminum) and Roval Traverse SL (carbon) rims in the past and it's been used for about 15 to 20 days at the downhill park so I would think it would be stretched a little. Has anyone else had similar problems?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    I have the 33's and 38's and I've had 2.5 Minnion DHF EXO's, (not the UST) on both rims with no problems. Are they steel bead or folding? Maybe the UST's are tighter since they use more rubber on the casing. Did u try some soap and water on the beads during mounting? Before I mount the tires, I let them, (the tires, not the rims) heat up in the sun so the rubber expands and becomes more plyable. Just curious, why UST? They're heavier than the tubeless ready EXO ones. Be careful with the rims and that much pressure too. They have a 80 PSI max rating.
    I believe mine are the steal bead. I ordered it from Amazon a while back and it came in a box big enough for the whole tire to fit in - so it was not folded in any way. I've had this tire on 2 different Roval Traverse rims with 22mm internal (clincher), and it worked great. Maybe the rim bed diameter on this LB rim is slightly more. I did try soap and water. I don't see tubeless ready or EXO listed under the 'Tech' column on the Maxxis website for Minion DHF's. It also shows all wire except for one foldable under the 'Bead' column. The only tubeless ready (TR) shown under the 'Tech' column are 29er tires. Both 27.5 options show Wire only in the 'Bead' column. Maybe I will try to find the one with the Foldable 'Bead' option, but that also shows UST. I think just having the Wire bead is the problem because it's unable to stretch but not sure. I was only using 100 psi setting on my compressor just to try to get the started.

  75. #1775
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb123hou View Post
    I believe mine are the steal bead. I ordered it from Amazon a while back and it came in a box big enough for the whole tire to fit in - so it was not folded in any way. I've had this tire on 2 different Roval Traverse rims with 22mm internal (clincher), and it worked great. Maybe the rim bed diameter on this LB rim is slightly more. I did try soap and water. I don't see tubeless ready or EXO listed under the 'Tech' column on the Maxxis website for Minion DHF's. It also shows all wire except for one foldable under the 'Bead' column. The only tubeless ready (TR) shown under the 'Tech' column are 29er tires. Both 27.5 options show Wire only in the 'Bead' column. Maybe I will try to find the one with the Foldable 'Bead' option, but that also shows UST. I think just having the Wire bead is the problem because it's unable to stretch but not sure. I was only using 100 psi setting on my compressor just to try to get the started.

    Yea, that steel isn't going to stretch. Here is a link for the Folding DHF EXO. These will be way lighter and easier to mount. They also have 2 ply folding on the same site if u want something heavier.

    Maxxis Minion DHF Exo 26x2.5 Tire | 60a | 3C | single ply
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Yea, that steel isn't going to stretch. Here is a link for the Folding DHF EXO. These will be way lighter and easier to mount. They also have 2 ply folding on the same site if u want something heavier.

    Maxxis Minion DHF Exo 26x2.5 Tire | 60a | 3C | single ply
    Thanks for the link, but I was looking for the Minion with the downhill casings and supertacky. I love the tire I have 2.5, DH cas., Supertacky, UST.. it just does not want to mount good on these rims. Maxxis has a Minion DHF tire that is the same thing (Supertacky, DH Casings, UST) and also 2.5 but it's foldable instead of wire bead. I found one and ordered it with the hope that the non wire bead will allow just enough stretching for it to mount right - will post back with results. By the way, on the Product Q & A tab on that link at Price Point they say that tire is not tubeless compatible.

  77. #1777
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    Quote Originally Posted by pb123hou View Post
    Thanks for the link, but I was looking for the Minion with the downhill casings and supertacky. I love the tire I have 2.5, DH cas., Supertacky, UST.. it just does not want to mount good on these rims. Maxxis has a Minion DHF tire that is the same thing (Supertacky, DH Casings, UST) and also 2.5 but it's foldable instead of wire bead. I found one and ordered it with the hope that the non wire bead will allow just enough stretching for it to mount right - will post back with results. By the way, on the Product Q & A tab on that link at Price Point they say that tire is not tubeless compatible.
    Glad u found what u were looking for. However they are tubeless compatible. I've been running them since 2006 tubeless without issue and you save a bunch of rotating weight by running the non UST version. But if your just using them for DH it doesn't matter too much. Just accelerating or braking is easier with a lighter wheel. The folding should mount a lot easier though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredman69 View Post
    Glad u found what u were looking for. However they are tubeless compatible. I've been running them since 2006 tubeless without issue and you save a bunch of rotating weight by running the non UST version. But if your just using them for DH it doesn't matter too much. Just accelerating or braking is easier with a lighter wheel. The folding should mount a lot easier though.
    That Q & A page on that link is just stating what Maxxis says about those tires. On the Maxxis website there are matrix's for every model tire and all the variations for each model. Most of their tires do not have the 'TR' (tubeless ready) designation, some do. Maxxis does not designate them as tubeless ready, (or UST either). Of course UST is the Universal Standard for Tubeless tires and I'm sure Maxxis's 'TR' is their proprietary tubeless tire design, just like Specialized's for instance has their proprietary tubeless design called '2 Bliss', as other manufacturers have theirs.
    I'm not sure what exactly the difference is that sets Maxxis's 'TR' tires apart from those that aren't. I'm also not saying those that aren't can't be used in a tubeless setup. But the proprietary tubeless designs follow the manufacturers specs and tests for tubeless use just as all UST tires have to conform to the Universal Standard. All those tires that don't meet either requirement are then designated as "not tubeless compatible". It legally helps cover the tire manufacturer if someone breaks their neck on a tire that isn't "tubeless compatible". And it also costs less to make the "not tubeless compatible" tires. Since I plan to start using Maxxis tires a lot more, I'm going to call and find out the specific difference between 'TR' and 'Not TR' - I would suspect that the difference is mostly or all In the bead, but I'll post what they tell me for anyone that is interested in knowing.

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    Hi,

    I've mounted LB 38mm rims on my bike a few months ago with a new Maxxis minion DHF Supertacky 2.3 on front and DHR 2.3 on rear.

    I feel I need more grip on front, because on gravel and flat terrain it slides more than my old rims with a HRoller's.

    Yesterday the front tyre was cutted by a rock, so now I want to prove some new tyre.

    I am thinking about minion DHF 2.5 UST but the weight penalty is important. (860g vs 1180g aprox).

    There's another tyre, Hans Dampf 2.35 with in 860g. This tyre has a good balloon so I think it would be a good choice.

    What do you think about it? Any recomendations?

    Type of terrain: any type..rocks, roots, and some gravel. 70% of year in dry conditions 30% wet.

    Thanks!!

  80. #1780
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi,

    I've mounted LB 38mm rims on my bike a few months ago with a new Maxxis minion DHF Supertacky 2.3 on front and DHR 2.3 on rear.

    I feel I need more grip on front, because on gravel and flat terrain it slides more than my old rims with a HRoller's.

    Yesterday the front tyre was cutted by a rock, so now I want to prove some new tyre.

    I am thinking about minion DHF 2.5 UST but the weight penalty is important. (860g vs 1180g aprox).

    There's another tyre, Hans Dampf 2.35 with in 860g. This tyre has a good balloon so I think it would be a good choice.

    What do you think about it? Any recomendations?

    Type of terrain: any type..rocks, roots, and some gravel. 70% of year in dry conditions 30% wet.

    Thanks!!
    I have the DHF EXO 2.5 (not UST, it's a lot lighter than the UST) and I also have the Hans Dampf. I like both, but the Hans is lighter and hooks up better on hard pack. The Hans also has a rounder profile and larger casing than the DHF, so even though it's a 2.35, it's bigger than the 2.5 Minion.
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    Hi Shred, thanks for your response

    You run a non UST tyre as tubeless? It need more liquid sealant?

    I think both tyres are similar..
    On terms of durability, I heard that HD is bad.

    If I can mount minion 2.5 without UST as a tubeless tyre I will try it

    Thx!

  82. #1782
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi Shred, thanks for your response

    You run a non UST tyre as tubeless? It need more liquid sealant?

    I think both tyres are similar..
    On terms of durability, I heard that HD is bad.

    If I can mount minion 2.5 without UST as a tubeless tyre I will try it

    Thx!

    I've been running tubeless for about 7 years and I've never used a UST tire. Most tires now a days are tubeless ready. UST is an old standard that is just not necessary. UST tires are a lot heavier and it kind of defeats the weight advantage of running tubeless. I use 2oz of Stan's in each wheel.
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  83. #1783
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi Shred, thanks for your response

    You run a non UST tyre as tubeless? It need more liquid sealant?

    I think both tyres are similar..
    On terms of durability, I heard that HD is bad.

    If I can mount minion 2.5 without UST as a tubeless tyre I will try it

    Thx!
    The HD has durability issues as a rear tire but it is not as bad as a front tire.

  84. #1784
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mishtar View Post
    The HD has durability issues as a rear tire but it is not as bad as a front tire.
    I think a lot of schwalbes are known to have durability/longevity issues. I believe due to the soft compounds they use, and light(ish) casings. They provide great traction but at the disadvantage of a shorter lifespan.

  85. #1785
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    WTB Breakout in 2.3 or 2.5 Tough Casing. High Grip rubber front, Fast Rolling rear. End of tire discussion. I use the 2.5s on my Nomad and 2.3s on my 5010.
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  86. #1786
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    But they don't make those in 26" do they?
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    Oh yeah, I forgot this was the 26" thread. Sold those rims for pennies on the dollar on ebay. 26" users are killing it in the used market. Not doing so well in the tire market. I'm trying to keep our shop stocked but the supply of 26" tires is dwindling by the week.
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  88. #1788
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Oh yeah, I forgot this was the 26" thread. Sold those rims for pennies on the dollar on ebay. 26" users are killing it in the used market. Not doing so well in the tire market. I'm trying to keep our shop stocked but the supply of 26" tires is dwindling by the week.

    LOL, I've stocked up and don't ever plan on selling my 26". I've got about 10 new sets on hand that I picked up on sale. Schwalbe, Maxxis, Onza and others. My supply should last awhile.
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  89. #1789
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    Are any of the Chinese manufacturers building a 26" rim with offset/angled spoke drilling?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pb123hou View Post
    Thanks for the link, but I was looking for the Minion with the downhill casings and supertacky. I love the tire I have 2.5, DH cas., Supertacky, UST.. MRR wheels it just does not want to mount good on these rims. Maxxis has a Minion DHF tire that is the same thing (Supertacky, DH Casings, UST) and also 2.5 but it's foldable instead of wire bead. I found one and ordered it with the hope that the non wire bead will allow just enough stretching esm wheels for it to mount right - will post back with results. By the way, on the Product Q & A tab on that link at Price Point they say that tire is not tubeless compatible.
    Thank you for info! help a lot!

  91. #1791
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    Are any of the Chinese manufacturers building a 26" rim with offset/angled spoke drilling?
    Derby is. Not sure about LB.
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    Hi ppl!

    Wich kind of tape do you use to run LB Rims tubeless?

    I've installed the XSauce tape in 23mm wide option. My rims are LB 26" 38mm outer, 33mm inner.

    I'm not sure about if this is the good tape because there are air loss in the spoke holes.

    Any opinion about this? Thanks!

  93. #1793
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi ppl!

    Wich kind of tape do you use to run LB Rims tubeless?

    I've installed the XSauce tape in 23mm wide option. My rims are LB 26" 38mm outer, 33mm inner.

    I'm not sure about if this is the good tape because there are air loss in the spoke holes.

    Any opinion about this? Thanks!


    12mm Stan's. It covers the channel only, not the rim bed so the tire is easier to mount and the tape doesn't get messed up when u change tires.
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    You can also use 18mm wide strapping tape.
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  95. #1795
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmzstyle View Post
    Hi ppl!

    Wich kind of tape do you use to run LB Rims tubeless?

    I've installed the XSauce tape in 23mm wide option. My rims are LB 26" 38mm outer, 33mm inner.

    I'm not sure about if this is the good tape because there are air loss in the spoke holes.

    Any opinion about this? Thanks!
    I've had to be very diligent (overly diligent I think) with applying the dedicated tubeless tapes. I've repeatedly used Gorilla tape and installation could not be easier. Slightly heavier, but easier to apply, more consistent results, extremely durable and cheap. Its a great option.

  96. #1796
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    Quote Originally Posted by RTM View Post
    I've had to be very diligent (overly diligent I think) with applying the dedicated tubeless tapes. I've repeatedly used Gorilla tape and installation could not be easier. Slightly heavier, but easier to apply, more consistent results, extremely durable and cheap. Its a great option.
    Gorilla tape does work well and it is easy to use. In fact, here is a quote from a pinkbike tech article:

    The CEO of One of the world's most prestigious carbon wheel makers mentioned that they tested a number of wheel sealing tapes and discovered that over-the-counter Gorilla Tape performed better than anything they found. The wheel maker ships its tubeless wheels with Gorilla Tape - albeit, custom cut and rolled to exact specifications - but Gorilla Tape nonetheless.

    This article explains how to get a wider roll the exact width of your rim: Tech Tuesday: Gorilla Tape Tubeless Conversion - Pinkbike

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