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  1. #1
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    Your thoughts on a used frame I just picked up for a cheap WW build

    I've decided to build up a light hardtail, but after trying to figure out if I could convert my old '94 aluminum Stumpy I decided to start with a new frame. I picked up a used Giant XTC 2 frame (an '08 I think) for the build for cheap, but I wanted to get some feedback on this before I get too far along. Here is a link to a post I made in the Giant forum.

    I tossed the frame (which is a medium) up on my hanging scale, and it weighs in at 3.25 pounds (with no seat collar, but the Cane Creek press-fit cups are still installed). That seems light to me, but honestly I'm not sure.

    Any feedback before I get started?

     photo image.jpg

  2. #2
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    Considering many carbon frames are coming in just under 3lb - looks fine.
    You still have a good shot at a sub 20lb 1x10 front sus. but that would likely get into $2000 price range. A 17-20lb single speed or 3x9 would be easiest to do on the cheap.
    Depends what your budget is and weight goals are.
    If lightweight is ultimate, put a carbon fork on it, stans crest or carbon rims, tubeless tires etc...
    I started with a 2.9lb frame targeting a 21lb bike.
    I made a few concessions such as larger tires, wider rims, xt cassette instead of xtr.

    Seems your a bargain hunter, 9 speed xtr components are a screaming deal right now as they are not in style.
    E-13 cranks are light and can be had for cheap but rarely, as well as previous model raceface cranks.
    Magura Marta brakes are also a steal, everyone wants the new MT6 and MT8.
    A used set of Stans Crest wheels is not that difficult to come by.
    Cheap tires are more difficult, there's usually a tradeoff on weight/price.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by roobydoo View Post
    Considering many carbon frames are coming in just under 3lb - looks fine.
    You still have a good shot at a sub 20lb 1x10 front sus. but that would likely get into $2000 price range. A 17-20lb single speed or 3x9 would be easiest to do on the cheap.
    Depends what your budget is and weight goals are.
    If lightweight is ultimate, put a carbon fork on it, stans crest or carbon rims, tubeless tires etc...
    I started with a 2.9lb frame targeting a 21lb bike.
    I made a few concessions such as larger tires, wider rims, xt cassette instead of xtr.

    Seems your a bargain hunter, 9 speed xtr components are a screaming deal right now as they are not in style.
    E-13 cranks are light and can be had for cheap but rarely, as well as previous model raceface cranks.
    Magura Marta brakes are also a steal, everyone wants the new MT6 and MT8.
    A used set of Stans Crest wheels is not that difficult to come by.
    Cheap tires are more difficult, there's usually a tradeoff on weight/price.
    I'm going for a light but cheap WW build, with more focus on cheap but paying attention to weight. I'm definitely going rigid to start. I'm looking to put a carbon front fork on it, but most of them have weight limits so I'm trying to be careful. I'm about 20lbs over the limit for some of the lesser expensive carbon forks, but I'm on a diet and plan on losing that 20lbs quickly.

    For parts, I've already grabbed a set of new Avid Elixir 1's w/HS1 rotors for about $80, which are not the lightest, but definitely a lot cheaper. I also grabbed a new RaceFace seat post for $25 that I can cut down to be around 220g. I'll probably get an Ibis stem (around 100-120 grams), as those are super light and super cheap. I also got a set of Mavic/XT wheels that aren't feather weight, were ultra cheap ($100).

    Right now my big gap is the drivetrain. I definitely won't go 3x10, or even 3x9. At most I'll go 2x10 or 2x9, but at minimum 1x10. I really don't know where to start to find inexpensive cranks for a 2x10 or 1x10 setup, as I don't know what's considered light, etc. I'll look into those two suggestions you gave.

  4. #4
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    Your thoughts on a used frame I just picked up for a cheap WW build

    In the price range you're playing with, oem slx cranks (<100) with lighter rings or x0 (220 ish) or xx1 gxp (240, best single ring crank ATM price/perf).

  5. #5
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    Thanks for sharing this project with us.

    I'll be honest with you though, "WW" and "inexpensive" aren't necessarily terms that go together, so you certainly have a challenge ahead of you.

    In terms of easy, low cost-things to do, you can:
    -Go to foam or silicone grips - inexpensive and light.
    -Go to a 1X setup - you don't need a shifter or FD, and some rings. Trick though is finding a 1X solution that isn't expensive, assuming you want a good 1X gear selection, i.e. custom ring.

  6. #6
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    Oh sure its possible to hit 20-21 pounds with a suspension fork and a full drivetrain with that frame for about a grand. You just have to patient in acquiring the components and always seek out the best deals, rushing to finish it will cost you.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  7. #7
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    Is it a bad idea to convert a regular 3x10 set of cranks to a 2x10 or 1x10 set by just removing the large chainring and or small chainrings? I realize that on a 2x10 the chain line will not be optimal (since the smaller chainring is way offline), but if I switch to a 1x10 won't the middle ring still be in an optimal position centered on the cassette?

    Another large issue is finding a rigid fork with the right A2C. According to Giant, this frame originally shipped with a 100mm RockShox Dart 3 fork. According to RockShox, the A2C for that shock is about 471mm. I assume that there was some degree of sag, so I assume I'll need a rigid fork with a shorter A2C, I'm just not sure by how much. Exotic sells a carbon fork with a 445 A2C, but at 26mm difference that would assume that the Dart 3 had nearly 1" of sag to accomplish the same headtube angles.

    Because of that I don't know what length fork to buy, which complicates things.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikingshelmut View Post
    Is it a bad idea to convert a regular 3x10 set of cranks to a 2x10 or 1x10 set by just removing the large chainring and or small chainrings? I realize that on a 2x10 the chain line will not be optimal (since the smaller chainring is way offline), but if I switch to a 1x10 won't the middle ring still be in an optimal position centered on the cassette?
    When I went from 3x to 1x, I kept my existing crank, ditched the big and little, and replaced the middle 32 tooth ramped and pinned ring with a 34t Race Face Single chainring. It's been working great so far and like you mentioned, it's still in it's optimal spot for alignment. There should be some pretty inexpensive 3x9 cranks out there.

  9. #9
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    That's a medium? Looks more like a small.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkley View Post
    That's a medium? Looks more like a small.
    You're right, it's a small. Typo. Funny thing is that the top tube is only .25" shorter than my Ibis Mojo HD, which is a medium.

  11. #11
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    BTW my Raceface seatpost came today. It was supposed to be 295g @ 375mm, but I tossed in on the scale and it came in over 330g! Now it's almost 40g more than I was planning on, looks like I'll have to send it back and spend a little more to get something lighter.

  12. #12
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    Almost every company lies about weights. Don't trust any of them unless you see a picture of it on a scale or someone here helps you.
    Lightweight, cheap stuff -
    Ritchey WCS grips. Mine cost 6-7 dollars and I've been using them for three years. Still look and feel great.
    Blackburn Slick water bottle cage. $12. I haven't dropped a bottle yet...

    Give us a list of what you're looking for and I'm sure guys will help you out. Like Dee said, if you're patient you can get deals on almost anything.

  13. #13
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    I used to have an 2008 xtc1 same frame diff color. It was a great bike, very stiff and responsive just too small for me. When I had it built as a ss with a heavy fork and wheels it was about 26lbs. (When I swapped that same fork for a sid on my next bike I dropped almost 2lbs). Never weighed it as a 1x9.


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Almost every company lies about weights. Don't trust any of them unless you see a picture of it on a scale or someone here helps you.
    Lightweight, cheap stuff -
    Ritchey WCS grips. Mine cost 6-7 dollars and I've been using them for three years. Still look and feel great.
    Blackburn Slick water bottle cage. $12. I haven't dropped a bottle yet...

    Give us a list of what you're looking for and I'm sure guys will help you out. Like Dee said, if you're patient you can get deals on almost anything.
    I'm looking for everything :-)

    Ok not really. I have the brakes, the wheels, the stem, and that Raceface seatpost I'm not too thrilled about in terms of it's weight. I've been looking a lot at SRAM stuff since it seems like you can get some of their stuff used for a decent price. The main thing I'm trying to find now is an affordable crank that I can use either as a 2x or a 1x. I've seen some of the SRAM S1000 2x cranks for around $100, but I'm not sure if I can use those in a 1x setup or not. I've also looked at the Raceface Ride single w/bash for about the same price. Since I've been out of the game for a while I'm trying to catch up on what works/doesn't work regarding different crank configurations, and which would end up being the lightest.

    For other components I'm looking at the following:
    SRAM X7 rear derailleur (239g)
    SRAM PG-1050 cassette (299g)
    Raceface Turbine riser bar (245) - I can cut this down some

    Any good suggestions for sourcing affordable parts that may not be the lightest in the bunch but may be middle of the road or better would be appreciated.

  15. #15
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    Consider the fact that a lot of "affordable" cranks tend to come stock with steel rings, you can often come out with a better weight value buying really cheap cranks and swapping the rings for what you might find individually on sale in aluminium. Shimano cranksets are often quite similar in weight for the arms and its only the rings where a lot of difference is found. A few years ago when SLX first came out, the crankarms were lighter than the Deore XTs with most of the extra "set" weight being found in the different chainrings.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  16. #16
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    3.2lb is a very nice start. Get a rigid Al fork from Mosso (E-bay). I would suggest wheelset, but you are covered. Great saving can be had with tires and saddle. Eggbeaters are super light option for pedals. I would start there. Have fun.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by henrymiller1 View Post
    3.2lb is a very nice start. Get a rigid Al fork from Mosso (E-bay). I would suggest wheelset, but you are covered. Great saving can be had with tires and saddle. Eggbeaters are super light option for pedals. I would start there. Have fun.
    Thanks Henry! I have been looking at those Mosso forks, but have been having an issue identifying the right axle to crown length I need for my frame. If I order the wrong size I can't easily return it :-). I'll probably grab one anyway at $50.

  18. #18
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    x2 on the crankset weights. I have a Stylo 3.3 converted to 1x. Without the BB it weighed 684g with a 34t Race Face Single chainring. PM sent on a fork option.

  19. #19
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    You won't find a Mosso with enough A-2-C length to preserve the correct frame geometry on ebay. Go looking for the Exotic Carbon forks, you want one with an A2C around 460mm as you need to suspension correct for a 100mm travel fork.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    You won't find a Mosso with enough A-2-C length to preserve the correct frame geometry on ebay. Go looking for the Exotic Carbon forks, you want one with an A2C around 460mm as you need to suspension correct for a 100mm travel fork.
    It looks like Exotic only offers a max A2C of around 445mm for some models as the 100mm equivalent. Some configs are offered in 465mm, but those are noted as being for 29er frames (not sure if that matters).

  21. #21
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    So you're 20lbs over the weight limit for a CF fork but worrying about 30 grams on your seatpost?

    You'll want something around a 430-440mm A-C to be suspension corrected for a 100mm fork. If you're really counting the grams, a shorter fork weighs less than a taller fork . . .

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    So you're 20lbs over the weight limit for a CF fork but worrying about 30 grams on your seatpost?
    Yes, as I'm losing weight as we speak but don't want to re-invest in bike parts in the future. Not sure why that seems strange.

    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    You'll want something around a 430-440mm A-C to be suspension corrected for a 100mm fork. If you're really counting the grams, a shorter fork weighs less than a taller fork . . .
    That was one range I was looking for as well.
    Last edited by vikingshelmut; 03-30-2013 at 04:23 PM.

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