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  1. #1
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    Where to start..

    Just got a nice 1Kg Carbon Road Frame - but where now.. Been doing full suss bikes for a lifetime but fancy a 2nd bike - so can I ask, where are the sensible weight saving options because a 1kg frame sounds like a great place to start off - but saving weight and getting reduce quality makes no sense to me, so where did you guys start off and how far did you end up going.. I have looked at wheel-sets and cranks, both seem to be heavy.. does one need to get everything carbon (bars, stems, seat-posts, saddles, pedals, brakes etc).. I weigh 86Kg.. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Did you mean to type "Carbon Road Frame"?

  3. #3
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    With road bikes it's all about buying the lightest grouppo and wheelset you can afford, everything else is minor compared to that. And with road bikes it's much more common to buy a complete grouppo with cranks, brakes/shifters, derailleurs. So pick a budget and compare the Shimano, SRAM and Campy grouppos and see what that gets you. With Shimano there's Dura-Ace at the top, Ultergra, 105 and Tiagra. With SRAM there's Red, Force, Rival or Apex. In Campy it's Super Record, Record, Chorus and Athena.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  4. #4
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    Thanks.. I meant a road bike where the frame is a full carbon frame..
    I am hoping to keep the weight to below 7Kg which should be easy but I guess it is gonna hit my wallet.. cheers for info as it is a completely different mindset to me using a full suss bike where my current bike is at 17Kg.. thanks again.

  5. #5
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    One more question please.

    MTB drive-train vs Road bike drive-train.

    I can see that road bikes go for a more compact set of gear ratios - but is there more to it than that, (cranks, chain-rings, dérailleur, front-mechs, cassettes) eg, cost, performance and weight?

  6. #6
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    It's exactly the same as MTB, Different price point groupsets do the same thing, the expensive stuff just does it lighter and crisper with nicer finish.

    Just like MTB the cassettes almost all have the same small cogs and you just select the cassette based on what you need to climb. (11-23/11-25/11-28/12-25/12-27).

    That's why a lot of people who aren't serious roadie keeners just buy the best kit they can afford and ride the weight they end up with.

    You can easily build a road bike a pound or two under the minimum UCI race weight for a road bike if you start getting tweaky, but that's a $10K road bike.
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  7. #7
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    Once again, thanks for that.. I am currently rebuilding a MTB and also for the first time building a road bike.. just taking all of the components from the MTB rebuild comes to 9.92Kg (and 2.03kg of that is the front suspension forks) - to me that all seems light on an MTB but heavy on a road bike.. gonna have to dig into my pocket I think if I want a road bike lighter than 20ibs.. its those pesky cranks and wheel-sets that push the weight and costs up..

  8. #8
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    If you want some nice idea for your road bike components and build, go to this web site: VeloBuild.com

    I've built my first road bike last winter and got some really nice help from there. You can also get some good Chinese carbon wheels for cheap. Just lurk around and you will surely find what you're looking for.

  9. #9
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    Road bikes. . . Biggest payoff in weight saving is in the rims and tires. Try to keep the cockpit items as light as possible to lower CG which is also noticeable. After that reliability and reducing friction bring a better ride than further weight weenie wastes of cash.

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