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  1. #1
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    Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb

    After close to 4k i ended up with a bike thats heavier than it would be if I spent 3k on a stock bike.
    Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb-whitefish1.jpg
    2013 salsa spearfish frame Medium
    XT disc brakes
    XT icetech rotors
    x9 shifters
    x9 type2 RD
    XT FD
    Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank
    Sram PF30 to threaded BB adapter
    Race Face BB
    Reba 20mm fork
    Mavic c29ssmax wheels
    Spec. Fast Track control front tire
    Spec. Captain Control rear tire
    one scoop of stains in each wheel
    KMC gold chain
    Sram PC-1070 cassette
    3T Dorico Pro seatpost
    3T ARX Pro stem
    3T Extendo Pro bar
    Eurgon GS2 Leichtbau grips
    WTB Silverado Pro saddle
    eggbeater2 pedals

  2. #2
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    Wow. Sure your scale is right? The wheels (tad heavy for a 19 mm internal width wheels) and cassette are the only heavy items.

  3. #3
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    shitmanos are heavy brakes compared to formula or avids,
    xo and up shifters/der
    ditch the front der/shifter
    2x10 is heavy
    BB adapter unnecessary you have a press fit use it
    sid/rev xx is way lighter than your reba
    carbon bars
    lighter cassette.

    light stuff costs, you can def put that wagon roller on a diet, just depends on how much you are willing to spend.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Wow. Sure your scale is right? The wheels (tad heavy for a 19 mm internal width wheels) and cassette are the only heavy items.
    No it was a shop scale.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by DOCRIGID View Post
    shitmanos are heavy brakes compared to formula or avids,
    xo and up shifters/der
    ditch the front der/shifter
    2x10 is heavy
    BB adapter unnecessary you have a press fit use it
    sid/rev xx is way lighter than your reba
    carbon bars
    lighter cassette.

    light stuff costs, you can def put that wagon roller on a diet, just depends on how much you are willing to spend.
    Originally I was going to go 1x10 but I need wider range cassette. So I'm stuck with 2x10 till someone makes 1x11 I can afford or a wide range 10sp cassette. As for the rest I have to be done with this thing for now. To start rebuilding it now would cost me what I have in it all over. The XT brakes are the best I have ever used. I will never go back to crap SRAM or Hays. I'm hoping for a lefty at some point but then the wheels have to go.

  6. #6
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    Well, I've been here too. Look at it this way: your component spec is very nice the bike is going ride like a dream. Forget the few lbs.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    After close to 4k i ended up with a bike thats heavier than it would be if I spent 3k on a stock bike.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	whitefish1.jpg 
Views:	836 
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    2013 salsa spearfish frame Medium
    XT disc brakes
    XT icetech rotors
    x9 shifters
    x9 type2 RD
    XT FD
    Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank
    Sram PF30 to threaded BB adapter
    Race Face BB
    Reba 20mm fork
    Mavic c29ssmax wheels
    Spec. Fast Track control front tire
    Spec. Captain Control rear tire
    one scoop of stains in each wheel
    KMC gold chain
    Sram PC-1070 cassette
    3T Dorico Pro seatpost
    3T ARX Pro stem
    3T Extendo Pro bar
    Eurgon GS2 Leichtbau grips
    WTB Silverado Pro saddle
    eggbeater2 pedals
    Do you have the "claimed weight" of each component in a spreadsheet?

    Did you weigh the frame, the fork, each tire, the wheelset, and then each component separately before doing the build?

    That's the only way to really know if your target weight in designing the build matches the components you chose. You have to do your research in choosing each part, list it in a spread sheet with a running total of what the bike will weigh so you are not surprised come assembly day.

    I uses to keep two columns in my spreadsheet. One column for the claimed weight with a running total, and another column with the actual weight for each component and a running total. But these days, I just weigh the part in the spreadsheet once it arrives and I put it on the scale.

    Raven&Ikon Spreadsheet Jet

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  8. #8
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    word em up! it's a sweet build, I'm sure it rips. don't worry about the weight and go shred!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Do you have the "claimed weight" of each component in a spreadsheet?

    Did you weigh the frame, the fork, each tire, the wheelset, and then each component separately before doing the build?

    That's the only way to really know if your target weight in designing the build matches the components you chose. You have to do your research in choosing each part, list it in a spread sheet with a running total of what the bike will weigh so you are not surprised come assembly day.

    I uses to keep two columns in my spreadsheet. One column for the claimed weight with a running total, and another column with the actual weight for each component and a running total. But these days, I just weigh the part in the spreadsheet once it arrives and I put it on the scale.

    Raven&Ikon Spreadsheet Jet

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    No I didn't do that. I wasn't thinking about a target weight somuch as durability when I was picking out parts. Its a grate bike and I love how it rides. Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    No I didn't do that. I wasn't thinking about a target weight so much as durability when I was picking out parts. Its a grate bike and I love how it rides. Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.
    Well, you can always trim 4 pounds off the engine and be even Steven.

    I was just responding to your thread title "Where did I go wrong?". You may or may not want to hear where you went wrong, I don't know, but I took your post as legitmate.

    Weights of every component are researchable so that you have an overall idea - using a spreadsheet - of what your build will be, could be, or should be based on budget. The reason the ligher full suspension bikes such as the Specialized Epic S-Works costs so much is due to the high end/light weight components that are specced on the light carbon frame (carbon Roval wheels, XTR, custom SID, carbon crankset, etc...).

    There is a good thread here on the Spearfish entitled "Post up your Spearfish weight and how you got it there!" which should be a tutorial for anyone building a Spearfish to get realistic ideas. Looks like 24 - 26 pounds is not so difficult.

  11. #11
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    You might want to check the weight of the Specialized tires. I put together a new bike and was having trouble figuring out where the weight was coming from. I pulled off the Specialized fast track I had and when I weighed it it came in a almost 900gms.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonedead View Post
    You might want to check the weight of the Specialized tires. I put together a new bike and was having trouble figuring out where the weight was coming from. I pulled off the Specialized fast track I had and when I weighed it it came in a almost 900gms.
    Yea the problem is both the local shops I deal with are Spec. delers. I get discounts at both too so getting other tires are kind of a PITA.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.
    I think you just answered your own question

    You are comparing $10k bikes to your $4k bike.

    The difference between a $2k full suspension bike and a $4k full suspension bike is mostly about adjustment knobs, servicablity and quality materials that last a long time. Your $4k bike has all kinds of adjustments and high quality parts that are very light for how tough they are.

    The difference between your $4k bike and the $10k race bike can almost be summarized in one word: Carbon. Once you start dumping more than $5-10k into a bike, you dont gain much more adjustability or overall quality. And in many cases, the weight is lost at the expense of reliability.

    To summarize: Shut up and ride your awesome bike

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmilMick View Post
    I think you just answered your own question


    To summarize: Shut up and ride your awesome bike
    I know I know I'm just freaking out I have to race masters next year for the first time and I'm on a tight budget and its going to suck.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Well, you can always trim 4 pounds off the engine and be even Steven.

    I was just responding to your thread title "Where did I go wrong?". You may or may not want to hear where you went wrong, I don't know, but I took your post as legitmate.

    Weights of every component are researchable so that you have an overall idea - using a spreadsheet - of what your build will be, could be, or should be based on budget. The reason the ligher full suspension bikes such as the Specialized Epic S-Works costs so much is due to the high end/light weight components that are specced on the light carbon frame (carbon Roval wheels, XTR, custom SID, carbon crankset, etc...).

    There is a good thread here on the Spearfish entitled "Post up your Spearfish weight and how you got it there!" which should be a tutorial for anyone building a Spearfish to get realistic ideas. Looks like 24 - 26 pounds is not so difficult.
    I do 29 1/2 was kind of a shock. I look at all the sub 25lb bikes in that thread and look at the parts and all I see is 15 or 25g here and there so I wasn't expecting what I got.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmilMick View Post
    The difference between your $4k bike and the $10k race bike can almost be summarized in one word: Carbon. Once you start dumping more than $5-10k into a bike, you dont gain much more adjustability or overall quality. And in many cases, the weight is lost at the expense of reliability.
    Great points, and I agree with everything aside from the reliability. Carbon isn't as fragile as its reputation by a long shot.

    That said, "cheap" eBay carbon parts might very well be less reliable, but reliable carbon parts (by a reputable firm) aren't cheap.
    Last edited by phlegm; 10-31-2013 at 09:26 AM.

  17. #17
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    So I've been through your build list a few times and here's my 2 cents.

    Ergon GS2- Great grips, love them for really long stuff. Swapping to ESI will loose you 162g.

    Wheels- Could loose some by going to crests but the Mavic's aren't more than a set of archs, so I'd run them.

    Agreed with above posters on the shimano adapter being a lot of dead weight.

    Is that a 120 reba?

    Sorry if I'm rambling I'm a bit stuck too. I like bruce browns spreadsheet. They really help (note mine is incomplete, I plan on pulling the bike apart this winter and weighing everything).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb-superfly.jpg  


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I do 29 1/2 was kind of a shock. I look at all the sub 25lb bikes in that thread and look at the parts and all I see is 15 or 25g here and there so I wasn't expecting what I got.
    Go for the 1X10. Your existing cassette is on the heavy side, so you can move to a lighter, higher range (as you mentioned above) and then drop the extra drive train components. You could probably shed a pound here - and sell the unused bits to defray costs.

    Re tires, stay with Specialized (if you get a deal) and go with Renegades, which are great aside from mud. They run in the 480-490g range in 29er form, and that's another big source of savings.

    I suspect you could do both for ~10% of the cost of the bike, which IMO is a reasonable cost range to shed that much weight.
    Last edited by phlegm; 10-31-2013 at 09:27 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    No it was a shop scale.
    I think the shop scale is inaccurate. Try a different scale.

    My LBS's scale was inaccurate by a half pound.

    Heck, my bike has been gaining weight and I'm fine with it. It was at 25.76 but I put on beefier wheels and tires, and a better cush saddle, and a shorter, but beefier stem. It prolly weighs in the low 27s now.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    I think the shop scale is inaccurate. Try a different scale.

    My LBS's scale was inaccurate by a half pound.
    That's a pretty large discrepancy, assuming a digital scale. Even so, and error like that would bring the OP to 29 lbs (or 30 lbs depending on the error direction), so not sure if he'd still be pleased.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    That's a pretty large discrepancy, assuming a digital scale. Even so, and error like that would bring the OP to 29 lbs (or 30 lbs depending on the error direction), so not sure if he'd still be pleased.
    True, but the bike is bullet proof the way it's built. The rider should just ride it like there is no tomorrow...
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Go for the 1X10. Your existing cassette is on the heavy side, so you can move to a lighter, higher range (as you mentioned above) and then drop the extra drive train components. You could probably shed a pound here - and sell the unused bits to defray costs.

    Re tires, stay with Specialized (if you get a deal) and go with Renegades, which are great aside from mud. They run in the 480-490g range in 29er form, and that's another big source of savings.

    I suspect you could do both for ~10% of the cost of the bike, which IMO is a reasonable cost range to shed that much weight.
    I really want to go 1x10 I just don't think I can get a low enough gear with out losing all the top end. I'm in northern CO. so its not uncommon for me to climb fire roads for 5 to 10 miles with sections at 25 or 30%. It can be a lot worse than that on single track and some of my races take me well over 12k feet. I have to change cranksets to make it work. I have a 30t wolf tooth ring I just need a 104 bcd crank to try it out. I was going to get a new RaceFace turbine crank or an X9. If I don't like it I can just put it on my hardtail I use for short track. The Renegades are grate here in the spring when the trails are more hardpack. I like them then. I change to fast tracks or a captain in the rear when things dry out and the trails get really lose and sandy.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    So I've been through your build list a few times and here's my 2 cents.

    Ergon GS2- Great grips, love them for really long stuff. Swapping to ESI will loose you 162g.

    Wheels- Could loose some by going to crests but the Mavic's aren't more than a set of archs, so I'd run them.

    Agreed with above posters on the shimano adapter being a lot of dead weight.

    Is that a 120 reba?

    Sorry if I'm rambling I'm a bit stuck too. I like bruce browns spreadsheet. They really help (note mine is incomplete, I plan on pulling the bike apart this winter and weighing everything).
    I have to keep the grips. They are the only thing that has stopped my hands from going numb after an hour on the bike. I might get the version with the carbon barends. I really like having barends. The fork is a 120 shimmed down to 100. It has to stay because its a 20mm TA. Forks are way to expensive for me to replace it and I would have to get new wheels because that hub isn't convertible.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I really want to go 1x10 I just don't think I can get a low enough gear with out losing all the top end. I'm in northern CO. so its not uncommon for me to climb fire roads for 5 to 10 miles with sections at 25 or 30%. It can be a lot worse than that on single track and some of my races take me well over 12k feet. I have to change cranksets to make it work. I have a 30t wolf tooth ring I just need a 104 bcd crank to try it out. I was going to get a new RaceFace turbine crank or an X9. If I don't like it I can just put it on my hardtail I use for short track. The Renegades are grate here in the spring when the trails are more hardpack. I like them then. I change to fast tracks or a captain in the rear when things dry out and the trails get really lose and sandy.
    You make a great point. IMO there are a handfull of places where you legitamately need multiple chainrings, and CO is one of them! Heck, coming from Ontario, I'd probably need a lung transplant to climb there!

    That said, aside from foam grips (which you mentioned are a no-go), a 1X setup is among the best $/gram savings available.

  25. #25
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    Pulser, take into account when buying some better used forks you can sell those Rebas which really shouldn't add much more in the end. Same goes for the wheelset as zippinveedub suggested. That's where you wanna drop your weight first and will help on those up hills. 1800g is dh territory.

    I personally wouldn't change your cassette, believing the drive train should be one of the best/dependable parts of your bike, not necessarily the lightest. I run M980 on all my bikes except my xx1 fat.

    29.5 seems a tad high but when it comes down it it, it's the fun riding and you should just giv'er with what you have and upgrade as you go.

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