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  1. #1
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    Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb

    After close to 4k i ended up with a bike thats heavier than it would be if I spent 3k on a stock bike.
    Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb-whitefish1.jpg
    2013 salsa spearfish frame Medium
    XT disc brakes
    XT icetech rotors
    x9 shifters
    x9 type2 RD
    XT FD
    Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank
    Sram PF30 to threaded BB adapter
    Race Face BB
    Reba 20mm fork
    Mavic c29ssmax wheels
    Spec. Fast Track control front tire
    Spec. Captain Control rear tire
    one scoop of stains in each wheel
    KMC gold chain
    Sram PC-1070 cassette
    3T Dorico Pro seatpost
    3T ARX Pro stem
    3T Extendo Pro bar
    Eurgon GS2 Leichtbau grips
    WTB Silverado Pro saddle
    eggbeater2 pedals

  2. #2
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    Wow. Sure your scale is right? The wheels (tad heavy for a 19 mm internal width wheels) and cassette are the only heavy items.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  3. #3
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    ****manos are heavy brakes compared to formula or avids,
    xo and up shifters/der
    ditch the front der/shifter
    2x10 is heavy
    BB adapter unnecessary you have a press fit use it
    sid/rev xx is way lighter than your reba
    carbon bars
    lighter cassette.

    light stuff costs, you can def put that wagon roller on a diet, just depends on how much you are willing to spend.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by thickfog View Post
    Wow. Sure your scale is right? The wheels (tad heavy for a 19 mm internal width wheels) and cassette are the only heavy items.
    No it was a shop scale.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DOCRIGID View Post
    ****manos are heavy brakes compared to formula or avids,
    xo and up shifters/der
    ditch the front der/shifter
    2x10 is heavy
    BB adapter unnecessary you have a press fit use it
    sid/rev xx is way lighter than your reba
    carbon bars
    lighter cassette.

    light stuff costs, you can def put that wagon roller on a diet, just depends on how much you are willing to spend.
    Originally I was going to go 1x10 but I need wider range cassette. So I'm stuck with 2x10 till someone makes 1x11 I can afford or a wide range 10sp cassette. As for the rest I have to be done with this thing for now. To start rebuilding it now would cost me what I have in it all over. The XT brakes are the best I have ever used. I will never go back to crap SRAM or Hays. I'm hoping for a lefty at some point but then the wheels have to go.

  6. #6
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    Well, I've been here too. Look at it this way: your component spec is very nice the bike is going ride like a dream. Forget the few lbs.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    After close to 4k i ended up with a bike thats heavier than it would be if I spent 3k on a stock bike.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	whitefish1.jpg 
Views:	1584 
Size:	170.7 KB 
ID:	842728
    2013 salsa spearfish frame Medium
    XT disc brakes
    XT icetech rotors
    x9 shifters
    x9 type2 RD
    XT FD
    Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank
    Sram PF30 to threaded BB adapter
    Race Face BB
    Reba 20mm fork
    Mavic c29ssmax wheels
    Spec. Fast Track control front tire
    Spec. Captain Control rear tire
    one scoop of stains in each wheel
    KMC gold chain
    Sram PC-1070 cassette
    3T Dorico Pro seatpost
    3T ARX Pro stem
    3T Extendo Pro bar
    Eurgon GS2 Leichtbau grips
    WTB Silverado Pro saddle
    eggbeater2 pedals
    Do you have the "claimed weight" of each component in a spreadsheet?

    Did you weigh the frame, the fork, each tire, the wheelset, and then each component separately before doing the build?

    That's the only way to really know if your target weight in designing the build matches the components you chose. You have to do your research in choosing each part, list it in a spread sheet with a running total of what the bike will weigh so you are not surprised come assembly day.

    I uses to keep two columns in my spreadsheet. One column for the claimed weight with a running total, and another column with the actual weight for each component and a running total. But these days, I just weigh the part in the spreadsheet once it arrives and I put it on the scale.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/5595290191/" title="Raven&amp;Ikon Spreadsheet Jet by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5266/5595290191_5e0c961ec1.jpg" width="500" height="460" alt="Raven&amp;Ikon Spreadsheet Jet"></a>

    BB

  8. #8
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    word em up! it's a sweet build, I'm sure it rips. don't worry about the weight and go shred!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Do you have the "claimed weight" of each component in a spreadsheet?

    Did you weigh the frame, the fork, each tire, the wheelset, and then each component separately before doing the build?

    That's the only way to really know if your target weight in designing the build matches the components you chose. You have to do your research in choosing each part, list it in a spread sheet with a running total of what the bike will weigh so you are not surprised come assembly day.

    I uses to keep two columns in my spreadsheet. One column for the claimed weight with a running total, and another column with the actual weight for each component and a running total. But these days, I just weigh the part in the spreadsheet once it arrives and I put it on the scale.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/5595290191/" title="Raven&Ikon Spreadsheet Jet by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5266/5595290191_5e0c961ec1.jpg" width="500" height="460" alt="Raven&Ikon Spreadsheet Jet"></a>

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    No I didn't do that. I wasn't thinking about a target weight somuch as durability when I was picking out parts. Its a grate bike and I love how it rides. Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    No I didn't do that. I wasn't thinking about a target weight so much as durability when I was picking out parts. Its a grate bike and I love how it rides. Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.
    Well, you can always trim 4 pounds off the engine and be even Steven.

    I was just responding to your thread title "Where did I go wrong?". You may or may not want to hear where you went wrong, I don't know, but I took your post as legitmate.

    Weights of every component are researchable so that you have an overall idea - using a spreadsheet - of what your build will be, could be, or should be based on budget. The reason the ligher full suspension bikes such as the Specialized Epic S-Works costs so much is due to the high end/light weight components that are specced on the light carbon frame (carbon Roval wheels, XTR, custom SID, carbon crankset, etc...).

    There is a good thread here on the Spearfish entitled "Post up your Spearfish weight and how you got it there!" which should be a tutorial for anyone building a Spearfish to get realistic ideas. Looks like 24 - 26 pounds is not so difficult.

  11. #11
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    You might want to check the weight of the Specialized tires. I put together a new bike and was having trouble figuring out where the weight was coming from. I pulled off the Specialized fast track I had and when I weighed it it came in a almost 900gms.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonedead View Post
    You might want to check the weight of the Specialized tires. I put together a new bike and was having trouble figuring out where the weight was coming from. I pulled off the Specialized fast track I had and when I weighed it it came in a almost 900gms.
    Yea the problem is both the local shops I deal with are Spec. delers. I get discounts at both too so getting other tires are kind of a PITA.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    Its just going to suck next season next season when I line up against guys on sub 25lb carbon Epics worth 10k.
    I think you just answered your own question

    You are comparing $10k bikes to your $4k bike.

    The difference between a $2k full suspension bike and a $4k full suspension bike is mostly about adjustment knobs, servicablity and quality materials that last a long time. Your $4k bike has all kinds of adjustments and high quality parts that are very light for how tough they are.

    The difference between your $4k bike and the $10k race bike can almost be summarized in one word: Carbon. Once you start dumping more than $5-10k into a bike, you dont gain much more adjustability or overall quality. And in many cases, the weight is lost at the expense of reliability.

    To summarize: Shut up and ride your awesome bike

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmilMick View Post
    I think you just answered your own question


    To summarize: Shut up and ride your awesome bike
    I know I know I'm just freaking out I have to race masters next year for the first time and I'm on a tight budget and its going to suck.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Well, you can always trim 4 pounds off the engine and be even Steven.

    I was just responding to your thread title "Where did I go wrong?". You may or may not want to hear where you went wrong, I don't know, but I took your post as legitmate.

    Weights of every component are researchable so that you have an overall idea - using a spreadsheet - of what your build will be, could be, or should be based on budget. The reason the ligher full suspension bikes such as the Specialized Epic S-Works costs so much is due to the high end/light weight components that are specced on the light carbon frame (carbon Roval wheels, XTR, custom SID, carbon crankset, etc...).

    There is a good thread here on the Spearfish entitled "Post up your Spearfish weight and how you got it there!" which should be a tutorial for anyone building a Spearfish to get realistic ideas. Looks like 24 - 26 pounds is not so difficult.
    I do 29 1/2 was kind of a shock. I look at all the sub 25lb bikes in that thread and look at the parts and all I see is 15 or 25g here and there so I wasn't expecting what I got.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmilMick View Post
    The difference between your $4k bike and the $10k race bike can almost be summarized in one word: Carbon. Once you start dumping more than $5-10k into a bike, you dont gain much more adjustability or overall quality. And in many cases, the weight is lost at the expense of reliability.
    Great points, and I agree with everything aside from the reliability. Carbon isn't as fragile as its reputation by a long shot.

    That said, "cheap" eBay carbon parts might very well be less reliable, but reliable carbon parts (by a reputable firm) aren't cheap.
    Last edited by phlegm; 10-31-2013 at 09:26 AM.

  17. #17
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    So I've been through your build list a few times and here's my 2 cents.

    Ergon GS2- Great grips, love them for really long stuff. Swapping to ESI will loose you 162g.

    Wheels- Could loose some by going to crests but the Mavic's aren't more than a set of archs, so I'd run them.

    Agreed with above posters on the shimano adapter being a lot of dead weight.

    Is that a 120 reba?

    Sorry if I'm rambling I'm a bit stuck too. I like bruce browns spreadsheet. They really help (note mine is incomplete, I plan on pulling the bike apart this winter and weighing everything).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Where did I go wrong 29 1/2lb-superfly.jpg  


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I do 29 1/2 was kind of a shock. I look at all the sub 25lb bikes in that thread and look at the parts and all I see is 15 or 25g here and there so I wasn't expecting what I got.
    Go for the 1X10. Your existing cassette is on the heavy side, so you can move to a lighter, higher range (as you mentioned above) and then drop the extra drive train components. You could probably shed a pound here - and sell the unused bits to defray costs.

    Re tires, stay with Specialized (if you get a deal) and go with Renegades, which are great aside from mud. They run in the 480-490g range in 29er form, and that's another big source of savings.

    I suspect you could do both for ~10% of the cost of the bike, which IMO is a reasonable cost range to shed that much weight.
    Last edited by phlegm; 10-31-2013 at 09:27 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    No it was a shop scale.
    I think the shop scale is inaccurate. Try a different scale.

    My LBS's scale was inaccurate by a half pound.

    Heck, my bike has been gaining weight and I'm fine with it. It was at 25.76 but I put on beefier wheels and tires, and a better cush saddle, and a shorter, but beefier stem. It prolly weighs in the low 27s now.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    I think the shop scale is inaccurate. Try a different scale.

    My LBS's scale was inaccurate by a half pound.
    That's a pretty large discrepancy, assuming a digital scale. Even so, and error like that would bring the OP to 29 lbs (or 30 lbs depending on the error direction), so not sure if he'd still be pleased.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    That's a pretty large discrepancy, assuming a digital scale. Even so, and error like that would bring the OP to 29 lbs (or 30 lbs depending on the error direction), so not sure if he'd still be pleased.
    True, but the bike is bullet proof the way it's built. The rider should just ride it like there is no tomorrow...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Go for the 1X10. Your existing cassette is on the heavy side, so you can move to a lighter, higher range (as you mentioned above) and then drop the extra drive train components. You could probably shed a pound here - and sell the unused bits to defray costs.

    Re tires, stay with Specialized (if you get a deal) and go with Renegades, which are great aside from mud. They run in the 480-490g range in 29er form, and that's another big source of savings.

    I suspect you could do both for ~10% of the cost of the bike, which IMO is a reasonable cost range to shed that much weight.
    I really want to go 1x10 I just don't think I can get a low enough gear with out losing all the top end. I'm in northern CO. so its not uncommon for me to climb fire roads for 5 to 10 miles with sections at 25 or 30%. It can be a lot worse than that on single track and some of my races take me well over 12k feet. I have to change cranksets to make it work. I have a 30t wolf tooth ring I just need a 104 bcd crank to try it out. I was going to get a new RaceFace turbine crank or an X9. If I don't like it I can just put it on my hardtail I use for short track. The Renegades are grate here in the spring when the trails are more hardpack. I like them then. I change to fast tracks or a captain in the rear when things dry out and the trails get really lose and sandy.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zippinveedub View Post
    So I've been through your build list a few times and here's my 2 cents.

    Ergon GS2- Great grips, love them for really long stuff. Swapping to ESI will loose you 162g.

    Wheels- Could loose some by going to crests but the Mavic's aren't more than a set of archs, so I'd run them.

    Agreed with above posters on the shimano adapter being a lot of dead weight.

    Is that a 120 reba?

    Sorry if I'm rambling I'm a bit stuck too. I like bruce browns spreadsheet. They really help (note mine is incomplete, I plan on pulling the bike apart this winter and weighing everything).
    I have to keep the grips. They are the only thing that has stopped my hands from going numb after an hour on the bike. I might get the version with the carbon barends. I really like having barends. The fork is a 120 shimmed down to 100. It has to stay because its a 20mm TA. Forks are way to expensive for me to replace it and I would have to get new wheels because that hub isn't convertible.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I really want to go 1x10 I just don't think I can get a low enough gear with out losing all the top end. I'm in northern CO. so its not uncommon for me to climb fire roads for 5 to 10 miles with sections at 25 or 30%. It can be a lot worse than that on single track and some of my races take me well over 12k feet. I have to change cranksets to make it work. I have a 30t wolf tooth ring I just need a 104 bcd crank to try it out. I was going to get a new RaceFace turbine crank or an X9. If I don't like it I can just put it on my hardtail I use for short track. The Renegades are grate here in the spring when the trails are more hardpack. I like them then. I change to fast tracks or a captain in the rear when things dry out and the trails get really lose and sandy.
    You make a great point. IMO there are a handfull of places where you legitamately need multiple chainrings, and CO is one of them! Heck, coming from Ontario, I'd probably need a lung transplant to climb there!

    That said, aside from foam grips (which you mentioned are a no-go), a 1X setup is among the best $/gram savings available.

  25. #25
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    Pulser, take into account when buying some better used forks you can sell those Rebas which really shouldn't add much more in the end. Same goes for the wheelset as zippinveedub suggested. That's where you wanna drop your weight first and will help on those up hills. 1800g is dh territory.

    I personally wouldn't change your cassette, believing the drive train should be one of the best/dependable parts of your bike, not necessarily the lightest. I run M980 on all my bikes except my xx1 fat.

    29.5 seems a tad high but when it comes down it it, it's the fun riding and you should just giv'er with what you have and upgrade as you go.

  26. #26
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    WickedLite one word LEFTY. Maybe after the credit card recovers I could swing it. I will keep my eye open for a good used one too.

  27. #27
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    Oh ya. sorry bout that pulser. I'm a link fork guy myself.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Oh ya. sorry bout that pulser. I'm a link fork guy myself.
    I have never had a Lefty and I have always wanted one. I just wish they weren't so expensive. But with the price on new Fox and RockShox forks getting the 1k mark now its not that crazy any more.

  29. #29
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    Bike looks sweet - here are some simple places to look...

    I won't take the time to google weights so this might not be much better than what you've got but here are some ideas to consider...

    First and foremost: the weight weenie war is a battle of grams so every little bit helps. Usually each new piece only offers a small incremental improvement. But taken together, the bike really starts to lighten up.

    Check out the weights on the schwalbe line of tires. The ones that come to mind are Rocket Rons and Racing Raplhs. I ride RoRos and love 'me. They are a lightweight tire and Schwalbe lists the weights on their website. You'll pay $60-80 per tires.

    You didn't mention tubeless or tubed. I recommend tubeless. Saves weight and performs better. If tubed, look for maxis flyweight or ultra lite tubes. They're Super light and while people say they flat, I haven't had that experience.

    Comb the sales at pricepoint, performancebike, and nashbar. They all make carbon seatposts and handlebars that can usually be had for well under $100.

    Loaded Xlite stem. About the lightest I know and can be found for around $100.

    I read that you're reluctant to go single-ring. But reconsider. Get a cassette with a 36 and you'll have plenty of low gearing - even with a 32 up front. That way you ditch the other ring, the derailleur, the cables, and the shifter. It will make a noticeable difference and will be lower maintenance. And try it without a bash guard or guide first to see for yourself if you really need them. Some do, some don't.

    Alligator and Ashima rotors are cheap and light. (But double check their compatibility with your brakes!)

    If you're running 9 speed, consider gripshift shifters. I believe they're lighter - but haven't checked in a while.

    Let me know if anything here is wrong... It's been two years since I researched my light bike so the tech may have changed!

    Good luck!

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by connolm View Post
    I won't take the time to google weights so this might not be much better than what you've got but here are some ideas to consider...

    First and foremost: the weight weenie war is a battle of grams so every little bit helps. Usually each new piece only offers a small incremental improvement. But taken together, the bike really starts to lighten up.

    Check out the weights on the schwalbe line of tires. The ones that come to mind are Rocket Rons and Racing Raplhs. I ride RoRos and love 'me. They are a lightweight tire and Schwalbe lists the weights on their website. You'll pay $60-80 per tires.

    You didn't mention tubeless or tubed. I recommend tubeless. Saves weight and performs better. If tubed, look for maxis flyweight or ultra lite tubes. They're Super light and while people say they flat, I haven't had that experience.

    Comb the sales at pricepoint, performancebike, and nashbar. They all make carbon seatposts and handlebars that can usually be had for well under $100.

    Loaded Xlite stem. About the lightest I know and can be found for around $100.

    I read that you're reluctant to go single-ring. But reconsider. Get a cassette with a 36 and you'll have plenty of low gearing - even with a 32 up front. That way you ditch the other ring, the derailleur, the cables, and the shifter. It will make a noticeable difference and will be lower maintenance. And try it without a bash guard or guide first to see for yourself if you really need them. Some do, some don't.

    Alligator and Ashima rotors are cheap and light. (But double check their compatibility with your brakes!)

    If you're running 9 speed, consider gripshift shifters. I believe they're lighter - but haven't checked in a while.

    Let me know if anything here is wrong... It's been two years since I researched my light bike so the tech may have changed!

    Good luck!
    Thanx all things I have considered. I am running tubeless and I do run a lighter tires in the spring and for racing. And I am going to give 1x10 a try before the end of winter. I would really like to soon so I can adapt to it before I have to race on it. I will look in to the rest but I don't think I will be changing rotors. I have Icetech rotors and with the long down hills we have out here I want as much heat dissipation as I can get. I wonder if XTR rotors would save some grams.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    After close to 4k i ended up with a bike thats heavier than it would be if I spent 3k on a stock bike.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	whitefish1.jpg 
Views:	1584 
Size:	170.7 KB 
ID:	842728
    2013 salsa spearfish frame Medium
    XT disc brakes
    XT icetech rotors
    x9 shifters
    x9 type2 RD
    XT FD
    Race Face Turbine 2x10 crank
    Sram PF30 to threaded BB adapter
    Race Face BB
    Reba 20mm fork
    Mavic c29ssmax wheels
    Spec. Fast Track control front tire
    Spec. Captain Control rear tire
    one scoop of stains in each wheel
    KMC gold chain
    Sram PC-1070 cassette
    3T Dorico Pro seatpost
    3T ARX Pro stem
    3T Extendo Pro bar
    Eurgon GS2 Leichtbau grips
    WTB Silverado Pro saddle
    eggbeater2 pedals
    Does that weight include the seat bag?

    I might check the weight of that seatpost and saddle. Easy enough to pull it out and drop it in a gram scale just to see. Same goes for that 3T Bar. I mean, you won't find whole pounds to save there, but it might be something.

    And yeah, I'm a big fan of Shimano brakes, but they do tend to be a bit portly, especially the rotors. Again, you're not going to shed whole pounds there. There is something to be said about really good brakes, tho. What miliseconds you would lose by the added weight will be more than gained back by your confidence in your bike.

    What is the weight on that frame? IIRC, Salsa frames tend to be a bit on the heavy side, but not bad. Not like Kona.

    Other than that, I can't see where the weight is hiding... at least not 2-3 pounds worth.

  32. #32
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    My advice on low hanging fruit: carbon bars, carbon/Thomsen seatpost, lightweight saddle, foam grips. I know you've already addressed the grips. These combined won't get you down that much though.

    I had a similar sense of disappointment last year when I bought a new Santa Cruz Tallboy C on sale at the end of the season. I also came on here to ask why. As a closet weight weenie, I was thrilled that I was getting a carbon-framed machine and was expecting a very low starting weight. It was 28.5 lbs which I thought was pretty unimpressive... The build was pretty much Shimano XT all around, WTB i19 rims laced to Shimano hubs, and relatively heavy all-mountainish tires. I replaced some small stuff that did drop weight but not by much. I finally decided that I absolutely positively NEEDED sexy hot carbon wheels, so I threw down on a Roval Carbon Control SL and that dropped off a couple pounds right there in the best location I could have done it.

    1x drivetrains were what many people recommended, but I was too reluctant to even step down to a 2x system. Mine came stock with 3x10. It's my own preference, but I ended up upgrading my OEM Shimano 3x cranks with XT 3x cranks when I found some on sale.

    My ride now hovers in the mid to high 25 lbs range depending on tires and I'm happy with that. I think I'd need to make drivetrain changes to get the weight lower, but like I said I'm happy with my choice and don't want to change. I have a singlespeed and that bike is currently 1x9, so I know that I can get by with fewer chainrings and taller gears. But I also know how much I love my granny gear on multi-hour rides with gobs of climbing... There is plenty of that to be found here in Montana!

  33. #33
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    Yeah, 29+ lbs doesn't make sense to me at all. I have the 2011 Spearfish in a medium and depending on setup it has weighed between 25.7 and 27 lbs. At its lightest, my upgrades from stock were: Stans Crest wheels, Maxxis Ikon tires tubeless, Fox RLC 100mm fork, XTR trail brakes and rotors, Niner carbon bars, lighter than stock but alloy seatpost, XT rear shifter and derailleur. The biggest impacts were the wheels and tires, but yours aren't THAT heavy. I even have the Ergon grips and Shimano pedals (heavier than your eggbeaters). Looking at your build I would guess 27ish.

  34. #34
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    Thanks guys I still haven't had time to find a different scale to try again. For now I'm not making any changes to the bike. I have car troubles and I need to spend money there. After the new year when things at work pick up a bit I might make some changes.

  35. #35
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    29+ is a bit heavy. Ride bike hard and keep an eye on E-Bay and craigslist for WW bits. Replace stuff as it breaks. I was amazed during first build at how many grams i saved just by looking at weights before purchases. I've had best WW results from saddle, tires, seat post, and pedals. after those changes, just pretend your bike weighs 24 lbs, take a dump before you ride, and ride it hard. Its all fun on a bike. "Ride smile and pedal damn it"

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by henrymiller1 View Post
    ... take a dump before you ride ...
    Done.

  37. #37
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    Tires are heavy,cassette is an anchor and should have went xx or xo instead of x9,and on another note put more stans in your tires or they wont seal when you get a puncture,grips are heavy,not sure on your wheel weight or crankset weight,
    I have an epic comp medium that weighs just under 26pnds,its all xo and xx including cranks etc.The wheels are a little heavy as they are arch ex,

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce219 View Post
    Tires are heavy,cassette is an anchor and should have went xx or xo instead of x9,and on another note put more stans in your tires or they wont seal when you get a puncture,grips are heavy,not sure on your wheel weight or crankset weight,
    I have an epic comp medium that weighs just under 26pnds,its all xo and xx including cranks etc.The wheels are a little heavy as they are arch ex,
    I definitely agree with you. But in this case, its probably good that the OP went with X9. Unless you're REALLY well off or continually enjoying the podium XO or XX just doesn't make sense. I have three gray X9 type 2 short cages (1 on my bike, 2 brand new for when my current one dies) and I spent a little over $250.

    In this case I would probably ride the hell out the bike for awhile, go 1x10 (do it, you might have to walk a few hills initially but keep cranking and youll be fine) then save up and get a lighter cassette and maybe a carbon crankset.

  39. #39
    bike rider
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    Where you went wrong is doing a custom build without careful attention to weight and then caring about weight after it's done. Changing parts now will be too expensive to be worth it. In the future plan cuatom builds more carefully with attention to all your goals....or pay someone else to do it by getting a complete. When I do builds I firat establish performance and durability goals, then create 3 builds at different prices with weight as the difference. Then decide how expensive and light you want it.
    Keep the Country country.

  40. #40
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    That's a great idea from Lelandjt.

    Although I have only heard of one person that really does it. Petr of Weight Weenies Inc. From what I understand he can get some cheaper prices on some parts too.

    I think it is a better route doing it yourself in end for a few reasons. Taking the time to plan is a must on any kind of build, ww or not. Costs can go towards your build. Sometimes weight is outweighed by preference as an example you prefer XTR brakes etc. Only YOU can make it perfect for YOU.

    Only options are sell what you don't want and upgrade to lighter stuff if you must. Or live with it if you can. But it don't sound like your happy.

  41. #41
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    ^It's important to remember that you pay a premium for a custom build over buying a complete bike. To be worth it that build has to be better suited to you than what is available so without careful planning that results in a better bike you're just spending extra money to do it yourself. After all, you're basically saying you think you can do a better job speccing a bike than product manager who does it professionally and has access to OEM pricing on parts.
    Keep the Country country.

  42. #42
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    What's done is done. When you have the cash spec out purchases a little more carefully. Specially...since you're a racer. Looking for sales in advance helps land the nice stuff!

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce219 View Post
    Tires are heavy,cassette is an anchor and should have went xx or xo instead of x9,and on another note put more stans in your tires or they wont seal when you get a puncture,grips are heavy,not sure on your wheel weight or crankset weight,
    I have an epic comp medium that weighs just under 26pnds,its all xo and xx including cranks etc.The wheels are a little heavy as they are arch ex,

    This is very accurate and looks like he uses many of the same parts. My '10 Epic Comp 29 is 26.0 lbs and a large. Let me know if you want a build sheet on it.

  44. #44
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    look at it this way i probably canīt afford to change the post and saddle, and my carbon expert on that picture weighs 12,95kgs as it is.
    i will remove the spike tires as soon as i can although not until say late April perhaps depending how the weather is going to be.
    i will run S-Works Fast tracks tubeless perhaps or Spec. light inner tube.
    i would like to buy the roval carbon control wheels but canīt afford them i canīt probably afford new seat post or saddle so new SPD pedals likely BBB 294g lighter than any Shimano so iīm happy if i can get it under 11,6kg in that case i might have to loose the carbon S-works bar ends new grips no bottle cage then maybe it will be a little under 12kg.
    Now iīm no pro racer or even amateur racer so weight isnīt really that important but the looks of the bike is more important i want it to look Niiiice

    so like someone already said get the bike out and let it rip


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