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  1. #1
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    Reputation: manmythlegend's Avatar
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    May 2012

    Very new to this. How much weight could I drop ?

    Greetings ,

    Im posting a link to a bike I bought last summer. My intention was if I really enjoyed biking or wanted something lighter Id invest on a whole new bike as suggested. But frankly I really ,really love the look of the frame and I find upgrading enjoyable.(thus far)
    It seems silly to spend more on upgrade parts then on the bike itself but like I said the frame is what Im attached to.

    How much weight can I conceivable drop from this bike ?
    The only serious upgrade Ive considered were to a pair of BB7s but that may actually increase weight no ?
    Im wide open to suggestions including a 1x9 or 2x9 setup. (i do want to stay with a suspension fork)
    80% NYC streets 20% light off road. Id be fine with swapping wheels or tires for either or.

    Budget Im fairly open. Is 500$ reasonable for weight loss ?

    GT Karakoram 3.0 29er Bike
    -Fork: SR Suntour XCT-29", 100mm Travel, Steel stanchion, Alloy Leg
    -Frame: New 29" Wheel, Hydroformed, 6061-T6 Aluminum, Triple Triangle Design, w/ Zerostack Head Tube, Disc Mount, Replaceable Derailleur Hanger.
    -Crankset: Sountour XCT-30v2-T2, 44/32/22T
    -Bottom Bracket: Shimano BB-UN26
    -Pedals: GT Slim Line flat pedal
    -Front Derailleur: Shimano Acera, Fd-M360
    -Rear Derailleur: Shimano Alivio, Rd-M410, 8-speed
    -Shifters: Shimano Alivio, SL-M310, Rapid Fire
    -Cassette: Shimano Cs-HG30, 8 Speed 11-32T
    -Chain: KMC Z72
    -Rims: Alex DC25,29" w/CNC Sidewall 32h
    -Tires: Kenda Klaw XT, 29"x2.10"
    -Hubs: All Terra Alloy Disc, w / Quick Release Skewers
    -Spokes: 14g Stainless, Brass CP nipples
    -Brakes: Tektro Linear Pull
    -Levers: Tektro
    -Handlebar: All Terra 6061 aluminum Riser, 700mm width, 15mm rise, 31.8 clamp
    -Stem: All Terra 1 1/8" threadless, 3D forged, 4-bolt w/CNC face plate, 5-degree rise
    -Grips: Dual Density, GT wing w/ waffle
    -Headset: Tange Seiki 1 1/8" threadless, Zerostack
    -Saddle: WTB Pure-V Sport
    -Seatpost: All Terra alloy micro-adjust
    -Seat Clamp: All Terra Alloy QR
    -Average Weight: 33 pounds

  2. #2
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    Reputation: danmtchl's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
    To be honest with you, it would be cheaper to buy a new bike. You can find a deal on used bikes that have been upgraded and that are a year or two old. Buy the time you nickeled and dimed each part it would be cheaper to buy a complete bike.

    I am guessing this a entry level bike due to the parts spec. If you decide to keep the bike and just upgrade, I would start with the wheels and tires first. I would recommend a set of Pacenti built wheels which you can get on their website. That will easily take your five bills and then some.

  3. #3
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    Reputation: vapezilla's Avatar
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    Jan 2012

    Very new to this. How much weight could I drop ?

    Could be cheaper to buy a new bike BUT if your attached to it and its a good frame I say **** it go for it. If you think it's crazy to spend more on upgrades than the frame cost well I will say I am guilty and there are tons others that are equally crazy. I just put some Stan's arch wheelset and full 2012 xt groupset on my 1996 Klein pulse comp. and it rocks. It's your bike do whatever you want. Your not the only one attached to their precious frame

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manmythlegend's Avatar
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    May 2012

    Re: Very new to this. How much weight could I drop ?

    Thanks for replies.

    How much weight would different wheels shed?
    I would have guessed a new fork would have been the easiest way to shed weight since it's so easy to judge before and after weight, but wheelsets seem to be first for many.

    Yeah it's pretty nutty but hey its a hobby it's not supposed to be logical. Plus I feel like I know something better if I've modded or upgraded it.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
    Sell the thing and buy a cross bike. Seriously. Get a cross bike.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2010
    To be honest, I would suggest selling your bike and either getting a lighter complete bike or building one up. I tried to start with a stock bike that weighed around 13kg+ but at the end of the day, unless you are prepared to change everything but the frame, your weight savings won't go as far as you wish it will (especially after browsing through the lovely WW bikes around here).

    In the end, I sold my bike and built one with the parts I wanted. The upfront investment may seem a lot at first, but if you're headed the WW way, you won't regret it.

  7. #7
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    Feb 2012
    Second the Cyclocross bike, It's ridiculously easy to find one to love.
    For the same $500 you could buy a used CX bike and instantly drop 10lb of bike weight.
    Sell your current ride and you could get a nice used CX bike.
    Nervous about a rougher ride? put some 700x40 aka 29x1.6" tires on it. Many CX have the clearance.

    More hand positions, better in a headwind.

    TWO other simple options to drastically change the weight of your existing bike :
    A carbon front fork - should loose 3lb if done right - seriously, around town that fork is not helping you.
    New tires - MTB tires on city bikes drives me nuts, (90% of people in my area are riding obvious commuter bikes & too lazy to change to commuter oriented tire for the summer)
    - your current tires are not ridiculously heavy, but on road they are not efficient. Try some 700x35 semi-slick tires like Schwalbe Marathon Racer at less than 500g (be careful some marathons like the plus and mondail are heavy - but nearly bulletproof)

  8. #8
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    Reputation: manmythlegend's Avatar
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    May 2012
    ((Nervous about a rougher ride? put some 700x40 aka 29x1.6" tires on it. Many CX have the clearance.)))

    Thats kind of exactly what Im worried about. NYC has suck crappy roads and Im often having to get on the curb near some industrial areas where I ride to parks.

    Cycle Cross bikes do seem nice and certainly lighter. Gravity Zilla on BD.COM is apparently 26lbs (7lbs lighter than current)

    I may have to go and try one at a LBS though. Not sure what Kind of fit I would need on these types of bikes. At 6ft3 200 I loved how spacious and forgiving a MTB 29er is but the extra hand positions and dropped pounds seems like a huge plus.

  9. #9
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    Jun 2008
    $500 should get you about a 2lbs reduction in weight. As EVERYBODY else has said, you are better off getting a new bike.

  10. #10
    Moderator Moderator
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    May 2009
    Since you like your fork, consider trading it in to Suntour (if they still have their deal); for about $200 you should drop about 1.5 pounds (I THINK). Shop around for a good price on wheels (try the "English" sites) and shed another 1.5 OR SO pounds for the other $300. The other option (since you like your bike) might be to find a used bike with light components and swap them with yours, then sell the other frame with your components.

  11. #11
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    Reputation: manmythlegend's Avatar
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    May 2012
    So I got to try out some Cyclocross bikes this weekend and as much as I love the lightweight nature of them they dont feel right for me. I was just never a fan of the narrow drop bars and every time Id jump on a 29er for instant comparison Id feel right at home.

    I shopped around and Id have to go over 1000$ to get below 29 lbs for a bike my size. Technically I can sell current and buy new but "seemingly" its choosing between a new 29er at the right weight for 1k. Or upgrading and getting down to about the same weight for about 700$ or so.

    Im looking at going 1x9 just for a cleaner setup ,weight loss is just a bonus.

    Looking to buy these....

    Black Flag Comp
    Stan’s NoTubes™ BST Technology (w/Rim Tape)
    24mm Rim Width
    26″/27.5″ (NEW)/29er
    Cartridge Bearing, w/ Cro-Moly FH Body Hubs
    Quick Release, QR15, 20mm Thru-Axle Front Axle Options
    (All end caps included)
    Quick Release Rear Axle Options
    (12mm axle end caps sold separately)
    Wheelsmith Spokes
    Wheelsmith Brass Nipples
    24/24 (28 / 28 for 29er) Hole Count
    Cro-moly Skewers
    26″-1850g, 27.5″-1930g, 29er-1975g

    And one of these...

    2012 Marzocchi Corsa SL LR 29er Fork

    Travel: 100mm (80 or 120 w/spacer)

    Adjustability: Lock Out, Rebound, Air Adjust, Volume Adjust

    Spring Type: Spring/Air

    Steer Tube Diameter: 1 1/8'' Aluminum

    Stanchions: 32mm Aluminum

    Axle Type: 15mm Quick Release

    Brake Mount: Post Mount Disc

    Size: 29''

    Color: White

    Weight: 1850g

    suggested use: mountain/xc
    travel: 100mm
    wheel size: 29"
    spring type: solo air
    adjustability: spring via air pressure/external rebound/lockout
    steerer tube: 1 1/8" threadless alloy
    stanchions: 32mm aluminum
    crown: forged 6061 T-6 hollow aluminum
    brake: disc only/ post mount (74mm)
    steerer tube length: 265mm
    axle type: 9mm QR
    color: white
    weight: 1756g (3.8lbs)*
    condition: new - in oem packaging
    Last edited by manmythlegend; 05-06-2013 at 01:45 AM.

  12. #12
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    Apr 2010
    In order to avoid spending unnecessary cash when going the WW route, it is always almost advisable to choose your own parts starting from the frame because to get a bike off the shelf at your desired weight is never cheap compared to building one up (with the right choice of parts).

    Since you're gonna spend some cash upgrading, I suggest you spend them properly to get the best possible components within your budget and decrease the bike weight progressively rather than all at one go so that you will have more to spend on each component you're changing.

    I'd rather you use the $700 to get the lightest possible wheelset than split the $700 between a wheelset and a fork because at the end of the day, you would exhaust the 'opportunities' you have to decrease your bike weight.

    Regarding your choice of wheelset and fork, I'd have to say that both are too heavy still and it isn't worth it if you're deciding to invest in those. For example, a ZTR Crest 29er Stock Wheelset only weighs 1610g at $595. While that is more expensive than a $299 (at discount) Black Flag Comp, the 300+ grms savings is well worth the money in the long run. For the wheelset, I would sincerely suggest getting one custom built (i.e. choosing your own rims, spokes and hubs) if possible to get the lightest weight at a cheaper price. (Eg. Stans crest rims with DT rev/comp spokes with a2z/novatec hubs etc.)

    If your budget for now is $700, I would suggest upgrading your fork another time. There isn't any rush to decrease the bike weight and I feel it should be done with careful selection.

  13. #13
    I ride bikes
    Reputation: moefosho's Avatar
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    Apr 2013
    Here is my list of suggestions.

    1. Look for a cheap road/cross bike and find some smooth roads to take. You might have to ride further, but you will be going much quicker. I picked up a road bike with shimano 105 3x10 drivetrain, carbon fork, under 20 lbs and I got it for $200 bucks. Would I much rather be riding my mtn bikes? yes. But my road is much quicker for commuting/around town.

    2. You are starting with a heavy bike frame and all heavy components. If you want to be a weight weenie, that is not the bike/frame to start with. You will end up spending $1000 on a $500 bike and still have a $500 bike. You can probably find a used bike that is quite a bit lighter for $700.

    3. If you like your bike and want to upgrade it anyway, I would look into a carbon fork. Good brands go for around $150 on ebay all the time and they weigh about 1.5 lbs. That would shave 3.5 lbs off the front end of your bike. I know what you are thinking, "I need front suspension". For city light trail riding you dont. Riding a rigid will make you a better rider. It will make you take better lines. It will make you use your body as suspension. Taking 3.5lbs off the front of the bike will make it feel much more lively, and carbon does have some give and vibration absorption. After that, just upgrade the other cheaper parts when they brake or fail.

  14. #14
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    Reputation: Fastskiguy's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
    I'd just say that you should consider a rigid fork. At 6' 4" and 190# we're the same size and I race my rigid bike in Wisconsin. Hell some people race 24 hour races on a rigid fork so you can certainly handle rough roads and 20% off road riding. You save a ton of weight, maintenance, and pogo action. You get great acceleration, great handling, and save money. Suspension definitely has its place....but probably not on your bike. Good luck to you, it's a fun thread to follow


  15. #15
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    Reputation: manmythlegend's Avatar
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    May 2012
    I have some follow up on this. Took alot of different advice. Will post tomorrow or Friday.

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