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  1. #1
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    Stock Rockhopper Weight?

    Hi There,

    How accurate are digital bath room scales? As I weighed my bike using my bathroom scales and I got a reading of 32lbs for my Rockhopper Disk 05. Prior to me buying my bike two LBS told me the Rockhopper weighed in the region of 28lbs. Are my bathroom scales incorrect? Or is the LBS telling a porky? As 4lbs is quite a weight to be out by. Has anyone on this board got a Rockhopper Disk 05 they could weight to clarify?

    Cheers,

    Danny

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangillow
    Hi There,

    How accurate are digital bath room scales? As I weighed my bike using my bathroom scales and I got a reading of 32lbs for my Rockhopper Disk 05. Prior to me buying my bike two LBS told me the Rockhopper weighed in the region of 28lbs. Are my bathroom scales incorrect? Or is the LBS telling a porky? As 4lbs is quite a weight to be out by. Has anyone on this board got a Rockhopper Disk 05 they could weight to clarify?

    Cheers,

    Danny
    I am 99% sure that it doe'nt weight 28lbs...

    My father rockhopper comp disc weight a little bit over 30lbs stock !

  3. #3
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    Older 2001 Rockhopper

    Quote Originally Posted by dangillow
    Hi There,

    How accurate are digital bath room scales? As I weighed my bike using my bathroom scales and I got a reading of 32lbs for my Rockhopper Disk 05. Prior to me buying my bike two LBS told me the Rockhopper weighed in the region of 28lbs. Are my bathroom scales incorrect? Or is the LBS telling a porky? As 4lbs is quite a weight to be out by. Has anyone on this board got a Rockhopper Disk 05 they could weight to clarify?

    Cheers,

    Danny
    I have a older 2001 Rockhopper A1 Pro model which weighed about 25.5 out the door.
    it did have some lighter stock parts like XT rear der.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangillow
    Hi There,

    How accurate are digital bath room scales? As I weighed my bike using my bathroom scales and I got a reading of 32lbs for my Rockhopper Disk 05. Prior to me buying my bike two LBS told me the Rockhopper weighed in the region of 28lbs. Are my bathroom scales incorrect? Or is the LBS telling a porky? As 4lbs is quite a weight to be out by. Has anyone on this board got a Rockhopper Disk 05 they could weight to clarify?

    Cheers,

    Danny
    your stock fork, wheels and tires are probably bricks. as well as the bars, stem, post, saddle.

    take the wheels off and weight them. figure 1/2 lb for the disks, 3/4 lb for the cassette, the rest of the weight will be the wheelset, tubes, tires. a decently light wheelset will be 4 lbs or less, tires 2 1/2 lbs or less, standard tubes about 1 lb. total weight = 7 1/2 lbs, 8 3/4 including disks and cassette. i suspect your complete wheels to be over 10 lbs.

    pull the fork off and weight it. remove the top cap and stem, disconnect the cable from the brake caliper. tap the steer tube with a 2x4 or a wooden mallet to dislodge the bearings. figure 1/2 lb for the caliper, bearing race negligible. a good light fork will be under 4 lbs, yours is probably 5-6 lbs.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chester
    I have a older 2001 Rockhopper A1 Pro model which weighed about 25.5 out the door.
    it did have some lighter stock parts like XT rear der.
    My 2001 Rockhopper A1 Comp Disk was just about 30 pounds on the hanging scale at the LBS. I don't think the bathroom scale should be off by more than 2 pounds.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by drunkle
    your stock fork, wheels and tires are probably bricks. as well as the bars, stem, post, saddle.

    take the wheels off and weight them. figure 1/2 lb for the disks, 3/4 lb for the cassette, the rest of the weight will be the wheelset, tubes, tires. a decently light wheelset will be 4 lbs or less, tires 2 1/2 lbs or less, standard tubes about 1 lb. total weight = 7 1/2 lbs, 8 3/4 including disks and cassette. i suspect your complete wheels to be over 10 lbs.

    pull the fork off and weight it. remove the top cap and stem, disconnect the cable from the brake caliper. tap the steer tube with a 2x4 or a wooden mallet to dislodge the bearings. figure 1/2 lb for the caliper, bearing race negligible. a good light fork will be under 4 lbs, yours is probably 5-6 lbs.
    Your right when I took my wheels of last to pump them up at the garage. I was amzed at how light my frame was after the wheels had came of. Could they be as heavy as 10lbs? Thats crazy if its true. I already have a new wheelset lined up its just a case of getting the money. Here is my new wheelset choice

    Nokian NBX Lite 2.0
    Continental Supersonic Tubes
    Hope Pro II Disc Hubs, Mavic 717 Rims, DT Rev Spokes

    Hopefully will shed loads of weight of my bike. Any takers gor a gestimate weight saving?

    Danny

  7. #7
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    sell the entire bike

    for about the 10th time... sell that bike and spend your "wheel upgrade" money on a different XC bike. start with something 25 lbs, then make upgrades. the wheel choice you have outlined is great, but the rest of the bike still weighs a lot.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevbikemad
    for about the 10th time... sell that bike and spend your "wheel upgrade" money on a different XC bike. start with something 25 lbs, then make upgrades. the wheel choice you have outlined is great, but the rest of the bike still weighs a lot.
    If you're going to upgrade just about every part on a bike, wouldn't it be more cost effective to start with a 30 lb bike, than a 25 lb bike?

  9. #9
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    Good job! no

    Quote Originally Posted by VT Mike
    If you're going to upgrade just about every part on a bike, wouldn't it be more cost effective to start with a 30 lb bike, than a 25 lb bike?
    no way. add up the cost of all the parts of a 25 lb bike, then check out the price of a new 25 bike... WAY less for a complete bike.

    Just to help illustrate my point...
    Say a 30 lb ht cost $1000 new. And a 25 LB ht costs $2000 new (probably less).

    Now go buy the same or similar parts. (I will guess low on costs). Wheels ($300+), tires ($80), fork($400+), seat($50+), post($50+), bars($50+), brakes ($200+), shifters... Oh, already hit $1000. Even if you are buying used.

    See the difference now?

    Never mind you still have a lesser frame. Even if you buy all the parts off EBAY, shipping still adds up.

    Since Danny keeps talking about his limited budget, a different bike is his best option. Search out a good XC hardtail online, with good wheels already on it, and sell your old ride. You will be upgrading everything.

    I am not trying to discourage the chap, just trying to encourage him to spend his hard earned cash wisely. If he is so concerned with weight (as many XC riders are) and wants to start racing, wants the advantages of light wheels, that is all GREAT! but then he needs to start with the right type of bike, not something that will take $2000+ to get to a race level.

    IMO

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevbikemad
    no way. add up the cost of all the parts of a 25 lb bike, then check out the price of a new 25 bike... WAY less for a complete bike.

    Just to help illustrate my point...
    Say a 30 lb ht cost $1000 new. And a 25 LB ht costs $2000 new (probably less).

    Now go buy the same or similar parts. (I will guess low on costs). Wheels ($300+), tires ($80), fork($400+), seat($50+), post($50+), bars($50+), brakes ($200+), shifters... Oh, already hit $1000. Even if you are buying used.

    See the difference now?

    Never mind you still have a lesser frame. Even if you buy all the parts off EBAY, shipping still adds up.

    Since Danny keeps talking about his limited budget, a different bike is his best option. Search out a good XC hardtail online, with good wheels already on it, and sell your old ride. You will be upgrading everything.

    I am not trying to discourage the chap, just trying to encourage him to spend his hard earned cash wisely. If he is so concerned with weight (as many XC riders are) and wants to start racing, wants the advantages of light wheels, that is all GREAT! but then he needs to start with the right type of bike, not something that will take $2000+ to get to a race level.

    IMO
    if you can find a bike for under $1k that's already under 25 lbs and you have the cash in hand, that's certainly a good way to go. but if you can't, you can spread out the cost of upgrades as well as find great deals on good light parts for less than that:

    wheels, 200: http://www.bobs-bicycles.com/index.c...93&product=412
    fork, 200: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...er+Air+05.aspx
    80 mm fork, but the stock head angle is 70 based on a 100mm. wait a bit more, keep an eye out for 100mm fork deals if you want.
    no need to upgrade the brakes.
    hardparts (stem, bars, post, saddle): 200

    so far, that's ~700 for parts, tax, shipping. 30 to install the fork if necessary, install everything else yourself. total outlay, ~1300 (assuming the bike was about 500 to start). weight should be around 26 lbs.

    the rockhopper frame is a good strong frame, not the lightest, but the bike can be returned to stock and sold for a minimal loss when he's ready to get a fancier frame.

    2k for an off the shelf bike at 25 lbs is still heavy, imo. it's really only a "good deal" or better option if you're looking strictly at msrp of aftermarket upgrades.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drunkle
    if you can find a bike for under $1k that's already under 25 lbs and you have the cash in hand, that's certainly a good way to go. but if you can't, you can spread out the cost of upgrades as well as find great deals on good light parts for less than that:

    wheels, 200: http://www.bobs-bicycles.com/index.c...93&product=412
    fork, 200: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...er+Air+05.aspx
    80 mm fork, but the stock head angle is 70 based on a 100mm. wait a bit more, keep an eye out for 100mm fork deals if you want.
    no need to upgrade the brakes.
    hardparts (stem, bars, post, saddle): 200

    so far, that's ~700 for parts, tax, shipping. 30 to install the fork if necessary, install everything else yourself. total outlay, ~1300 (assuming the bike was about 500 to start). weight should be around 26 lbs.

    the rockhopper frame is a good strong frame, not the lightest, but the bike can be returned to stock and sold for a minimal loss when he's ready to get a fancier frame.

    2k for an off the shelf bike at 25 lbs is still heavy, imo. it's really only a "good deal" or better option if you're looking strictly at msrp of aftermarket upgrades.
    I'm not after a super weight weenie bike. I'd be happy with 27/28lbs bike. As all the bits I replace I'll keep and I can return my bike to stock when the time comes to sell it. I'm still in Uni as well, hence why I couldn't spend more money in the first place. The upgrades I want to make are wheels and fork. I'll then replace other bits when they break or become worn. Will these two upgrades alone bring me down to 27/28lbs?

    Nokian NBX Lite 2.0
    Continental Supersonic Tubes
    Hope Pro II Disc Hubs, Mavic 717 Rims, DT Rev Spokes

    RS Reba Race 06

    Danny

  12. #12
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    Oh yes......was a 2000 A1 Pro purchased in March 2001

    Quote Originally Posted by VT Mike
    My 2001 Rockhopper A1 Comp Disk was just about 30 pounds on the hanging scale at the LBS. I don't think the bathroom scale should be off by more than 2 pounds.

    Well, I'm not sure how much your particular "Disk" brakes add to the weight, but you also must realize that the "pro" model had a number of different parts, wheels etc.
    From my memory, the plain (non disk) model of the comp MSRP was about $729 while the A1 Pro MSRP was about $929...

    Of course I did not pay that amount........

    Hey, I just remembered something......I purchased that bike in March of 2001, but in fact now that I think about it, it was a closeout of the 2000 model......
    So we are talking about a whole different model year.

    Anyway, I took it into another bike shop after taking off the reflectors, etc, and they weighed it at 25.5 pounds..........oh yes, also without bottle holder.
    I got a great deal on it at $599 plus tax. Put over 5,000 miles on it before I got a Stumpjumper which weighs under 23 pounds before doing anything to lighten it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chester

    Anyway, I took it into another bike shop after taking off the reflectors, etc, and they weighed it at 25.5 pounds..........oh yes, also without bottle holder.
    I got a great deal on it at $599 plus tax. Put over 5,000 miles on it before I got a Stumpjumper which weighs under 23 pounds before doing anything to lighten it.
    buying a used stumpjumper for under $400 would have been the best way to go, no doubt.

    i doubt your claimed weights, i have an m2 17" stumpy that weighed near 26 lbs stock. your 25.5 lb rockhopper seems quite off considering the component spec.

    regardless, the rockhopper the guy bought is realistically in the 30+ lb range.

  14. #14
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    I feel your pain...

    After a long break (sold my C-dale for college tuition) I purchased a Fisher Wahoo. I liked it for about a day and traded it for an '05 HKEK 3 months later.

    I basically paid $840 + tax. Manufactures claimed weight 27.2.bs

    After upgrades (and not doing my homework), I will have around $1175. (including Juicy 5's) It will weigh in at just over 26 lbs. (that's still with the stock brick of a fork RS Pilot SL)

    I could have saved a little more cash for a couple more months and bought a Stumpjumper for $1150 +tx and it would have already weighed in at just under 25 lbs.

    Pro's 'n' Con's:
    The Stumpy would have a Fox F80RLT vs my Pilot SL
    The Stumpy would have XT rear derailleur vs my LX
    The stumpy would have an XT octalink crank vs my LX Hollowtech II ( I win here)

    I probably would have put the disc brakes on the Stumpjumper either way and added a 1/2 lb, but still I feel like I screwed myself by not waiting a few months and buying something a little better instead of upgrading a sub-$1k bike.

    My biggest weight savings was the 33lbs I lost pedaling my porky HKEK for the last 4-5 months.

  15. #15
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    not just me

    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    After a long break (sold my C-dale for college tuition) I purchased a Fisher Wahoo. I liked it for about a day and traded it for an '05 HKEK 3 months later.

    I basically paid $840 + tax. Manufactures claimed weight 27.2.bs

    After upgrades (and not doing my homework), I will have around $1175. (including Juicy 5's) It will weigh in at just over 26 lbs. (that's still with the stock brick of a fork RS Pilot SL)

    I could have saved a little more cash for a couple more months and bought a Stumpjumper for $1150 +tx and it would have already weighed in at just under 25 lbs.

    Pro's 'n' Con's:
    The Stumpy would have a Fox F80RLT vs my Pilot SL
    The Stumpy would have XT rear derailleur vs my LX
    The stumpy would have an XT octalink crank vs my LX Hollowtech II ( I win here)

    I probably would have put the disc brakes on the Stumpjumper either way and added a 1/2 lb, but still I feel like I screwed myself by not waiting a few months and buying something a little better instead of upgrading a sub-$1k bike.

    My biggest weight savings was the 33lbs I lost pedaling my porky HKEK for the last 4-5 months.
    exactly! if danny was already starting with something around the mid 20's fine. after wheels he will feel like he also needs better (lighter) this that and and everything else.

  16. #16
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    Now the problem I'm faced with is that if I put all the stock stuff back on the Fisher, I could sell the bike for $500 if I'm lucky. Or trade it in on the Stumpjumper and probably get even less.

    Either way, I'm looking at spending another $600-$800 if I want to go up.

    I'm probably just going to get a Manitou Black Super Air, Pre-2006 Minute 2:00, or Reba. That'll save me close to pound over the Porky-Pilot.

    I mentioned that I didn't do my homework when I upgraded parts in my first post:

    Easton EA70 riser bar-250g - for a little more, I coulda' gotten an EC70 150g or Answer Carbon 165g

    Easton EA50 stem could have been a somewhat ligher stem for the money.I should have kept the stock stem and bought a U.S.E. Alien seatpost and saved almost 150g over the cheap Bontrager Sport.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    Now the problem I'm faced with is that if I put all the stock stuff back on the Fisher, I could sell the bike for $500 if I'm lucky. Or trade it in on the Stumpjumper and probably get even less.
    that's the problem with buying a mid level bike. crappy resale value, mediocre but still crappy parts:


    Either way, I'm looking at spending another $600-$800 if I want to go up.

    I'm probably just going to get a Manitou Black Super Air, Pre-2006 Minute 2:00, or Reba. That'll save me close to pound over the Porky-Pilot.
    the pilot is an upgraded fork over low end bikes that come with rst's or suntours. but as you found, it's still a crappy fork. same can be said for manitou axels, judy's, oem spec "good forks", etc.

    the black super air probably the best price/performance/weight balance fork atm. skareb supers are good as well, cheaper too, but with smaller stanchions. may or may not mean anything to you.

    I mentioned that I didn't do my homework when I upgraded parts in my first post:

    Easton EA70 riser bar-250g - for a little more, I coulda' gotten an EC70 150g or Answer Carbon 165g

    Easton EA50 stem could have been a somewhat ligher stem for the money.I should have kept the stock stem and bought a U.S.E. Alien seatpost and saved almost 150g over the cheap Bontrager Sport.
    dont make the same mistake again by settling for the ec70. get the ec90 on sale or find a comparable part for under $100. by comparable, i mean under or near 125 grams for 50-80 bucks.

    sette stems are 125 gms at 25 dollars. the use post is a nice post, but hard to find for less than $80-90. nice thing about them however, you can buy the 25.0 diameter post and get a shim to fit your frame. the shims are nice and light and it means you're not stuck buying an expensive post that may not travel with you to your next frame; just buy a new shim.

    buying mid level parts to replace your existing mid level parts is pointless. if you do that, then you're definately better off saving your money and just buying a better bike. but if you wait, save and buy top end parts (on sale or buy cheaper, comparable off brands), you'll be much better off with a component kit that will last.

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