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  1. #1
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    Scrub Workhorse Rotors

    These look pretty interesting and a bit more all purpose then their race day rotors. Not to mention the price is within reach, unlike the race day. Weight looks pretty good at 53g (per Fairwheel).

    I'm curious about performance. Has anybody used these and how do you like them? Do they have a tendancy to warp under long descents? This is the problem I have had with my current Formula rotors (although not as bad as my XX clean sweep). I'm not willing to give up any performance over my current setup of R1's with semi-metallic pads and R1 rotors so I'm not sure these will work for me.
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  2. #2
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    i'm currently testing one out with the kcnc x7 brakes.. only one ride on it though..
    RAH!

  3. #3
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    How are those KCNC brakes? Could you please post pictures of their weights preferably the front only without rotor, bolts, or adapter? May I know why you preferred them over R1? Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by facelessfools View Post
    i'm currently testing one out with the kcnc x7 brakes.. only one ride on it though..
    Any update to these rotors? They look nice, and the weight is good, just want to make sure they hold up for me.
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  5. #5
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    I've been using the workhorse rotor for 2 years + now. They definitely do not have all the power of a semi metallic pad on a steel rotor, but they have enough power for my purposes. I have got them so hot that I could smell them quite distinctly, and they've never warped.

    I know I could get more power by trying the Scrub specific pads. I'm running them with the OEM Formula R1 organic pads right now.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlownCivic View Post
    They definitely do not have all the power of a semi metallic pad on a steel rotor
    thats all i can really say so far :/ with the kcnc setup and srub workhorse and scrub pads it has incredible modulation. it doesn't have the force to lock the rear tire up unless its really loose so its helping keeping it rolling rather then sliding through turns. i can tell the kcnc's have a power potential because my front with the stock setup has some bite to it.
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  7. #7
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    I had the X7 KCNC brakes. They were always spongy and the levers had a ton of flex.If you go with these brakes I strongly recommend jumping up to a 180mm front rotor. Only a 25g increase and the power performance was worth it. I only had the brakes for a short while and then they failed and lost pressure.

    Fairwheel, did not recommend replacing them as they have had a high fail rate. They switched me out to a set of Ashima PCBs. These are just a tad heavier, but perform much much better. There is still some flex in the levers but not as bad as the KCNC. These also cost half the price of the KCNC and by far are the best value weight weenie brakes made. You can get a new set on ebay for about $140 per wheel. Hard to beat.
    Scott Scale 29er with Carbon Lefty at an insane 16.9 pounds.

  8. #8
    "They Call Me Bone'z"
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    my newest addition
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  9. #9
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    I have used the workhorse scrub rotors on a Formula R1 breaks, they were noisy, even with the recommended pad, noisy and lack of power, I do not know if the 45 gr saved per 160mm rotor against the Hope worth the weight savings, have two sets, 140, 160mm; maybe using anti-squeal

  10. #10
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    I have/had a Scrub 160mm workhorse rotor on the rear of my bike, i'm glad i never used one up front.

    It arrived bent which wasn't a great start and despite following the break in guide the braking was always subpar with it. To be fair i never had issue's with squeeling even in the wet but i found myself having to ride differently to accomodate not being able to stop as hard - which really ruined the whole thing for me.

    With my new build i'm sticking with Hope Pro rotors. 25 grams more but at least they work.

  11. #11
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    The other problem I see with the Scrubs is that you have to use their pads, which are not exactly lightweight. As a result, you get a lighter rotor but that's offset by having to use heavier pads (compared to alu backed pads). Even though they weigh 54g, you've got to add 10g into the equation for the heavier pads.

    I wonder what the braking performance of the upcoming 65g Airotor AI2 will be? If its better than the Scrubs then there's no real point in using them. I would imagine the AI2 is also not going to be super expensive.

  12. #12
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    Hmm, interesting. I just picked up a set of Scrub Workhorse rotors, used on ebay. 180mm front and 160mm rear. These are straight and of course broken in. I think the guy said they had a dozen rides or so and around 100 miles.

    I don't think you have to use their pads, but you have to use an organic compound pad.
    I am using organic XTR pads w/ alum backings and have not had any issues. Great power, and quiet. I admit that I got lucky buying these used, but the point here is that they are broken in, and this seems to be a critical factor for these rotors.

    This is what Scrub has to say about pads:
    If you are using a brake system that we do not currently offer Scrub Brake Pads for, Scrub still recommends that Kool-Stop is the best choice available.

    Even if you choose to use pads other than Scrub with your Scrub rotors, please be aware that sintered, semi-metallic or full metallic pads should never be used. Use only organic or resin pads!

    Use of any pad other than Scrub brake pads for MMC rotors may compromise performance and/or void any support that we may offer.
    Scott Scale 29er with Carbon Lefty at an insane 16.9 pounds.

  13. #13
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    Does anyone know where I can get the aluminum keeper that holds the outer breaking surface rotor to the inner mounting part. One of the keepers came out and my spokes broke about an inch off of it. Trying to find one & discovered Scrubs went out of bussiness March 2015. Any ideas?
    I'd rather be lucky than good!

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