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  1. #1
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    Sachs Quarz shifters

    I got a set of Sachs Quarz shifters recently.

    They were apparetnly on cannondale bike, that previous owner did not use.
    So there was no manual when I bought.

    They are very light, as all of you know @ 150g with cables.

    I just did not like the silver cables, so I have tried to replace them with black ones.

    Photo is after the cable have been changed on rear shifter.
    BUT... I could not work out that the small plastic parts under the screws are / were...

    Also on front shifters, there are springs inside.
    So before I get them apart, and never get to rebuild, could some of the owners help me with some manuals?

    Really appreciate your help!!
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitakeng
    I got a set of Sachs Quarz shifters recently.

    They were apparetnly on cannondale bike, that previous owner did not use.
    So there was no manual when I bought.

    They are very light, as all of you know @ 150g with cables.

    I just did not like the silver cables, so I have tried to replace them with black ones.

    Photo is after the cable have been changed on rear shifter.
    BUT... I could not work out that the small plastic parts under the screws are / were...

    Also on front shifters, there are springs inside.
    So before I get them apart, and never get to rebuild, could some of the owners help me with some manuals?

    Really appreciate your help!!
    I'm kind of confused, do you mean the cable or the housing, because pretty much all cable is silver and for the housing, you don't need to take the shifter apart to change it.

  3. #3
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    >Grawbass
    Yes, I must admit my comment was not so clear...

    I do mean inner shifting cables.
    I am using coated (kevlar?) shifting cable, and it is in black.

    When I got the grip off, I was able to pull the cable out. No problem.
    But when I try to put the (black) cable through from the other direction, it got stuck.
    So I had no option other than to take it apart.

    I cannot remember where I saw it (ebay?)
    but there was a manual attached in the original product.

    Does anybody know where I can download it? Or any experienced people show me "How to"?

  4. #4
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    The coating that's black is usually teflon.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  5. #5
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    undo everything you did. there is a little flap that is rubber. you shift down to the smallest cog number 9. and then push the cable from the end through the flap. As long as the shifter is on 9 you can push a new cable back through the flap, it takes some patience as its kinda like trying to thread a needle. The left side you set to 1 and do the same. You basically want the cable at its longest setting as far as shift position is concearned. if you have it on 7 on the right or 2 on the left the cable is actually wrapped around the body inside, and will not be able to be removed as the the cable end does not line up with the flap.

    good luck and if your still confused sounds like a trip to the lbs. but its actually very easy, maybe I did not make it sound that way.

    Will

  6. #6
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    >Dee Eight

    You are absolutely correct.
    On the package, it said "teflon coating". Thanks.
    (suppose kelver is a fibre like powercorz?)

    >Will
    Many thanks for your explanation.
    Sure to have some fun tonight fiddling with these small bits!!

  7. #7
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    Well, one thing cleared and another problem now....

    I got to find the "right" place for the plastic part shown previously on photo (under the screw). It is works as a bridge to make the cable to go smoother.

    But while I was doing this, now the dial part has come off.
    I know exactly what to do, but dont know how.

    The metal (brass) "trigger?" must be pushed down whilst the dial is inserted.
    This is actually very difficult as there are not so much space in between.
    So Photo #1 and #2 must be together.
    Photo #3, behind the green plastic display, metal part must be pushed down to get the dial (photo #2) in.

    So difficult to explain in words...
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kitakeng
    Well, one thing cleared and another problem now....

    I got to find the "right" place for the plastic part shown previously on photo (under the screw). It is works as a bridge to make the cable to go smoother.

    But while I was doing this, now the dial part has come off.
    I know exactly what to do, but dont know how.

    The metal (brass) "trigger?" must be pushed down whilst the dial is inserted.
    This is actually very difficult as there are not so much space in between.
    So Photo #1 and #2 must be together.
    Photo #3, behind the green plastic display, metal part must be pushed down to get the dial (photo #2) in.

    So difficult to explain in words...
    It should be very easy to put the shifter together: with the shifter ON the handlebar just jiggle around applying not much pressure and the part where the hand goes will fit nicely into the body of the shifter. You do not need to push down on the metal spring part to put it back together.

    By the way, if you are impressed with the weight of the shifters, keep in mind that they are quite long: I shave off about 1cm from mine further reducing the weight andnot compromising shifting at all.


  9. #9
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    >Davide
    Sounds very nice. I hope to post a good news very shortly.

    Re : shaving, that does sound very interesting.
    In fact, I was thinking of shaving the grip dimple a little, as I dont need so much grip to twist. (or even change to foam grips) So may be in conbination with your suggestion, they may cut many grams too.

    BUT that is obviously after getting these to work!!

  10. #10
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    Got it back in!!

    With a help from Davide, all pieces (not many...) got back in.

    As Davide said, lightly jiggling did work!!

    Also I found some docs on Sram website. So the metal part was heading wrong direction. http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/...M_MTB_E_99.pdf

    Thank you guys for your advises


    So now, change the topic to lightening Sachs shifter.
    I hope to shorten the twist grip, and may be shave some rubber.
    See how it goes.

    Currently right grip weighed 69g incl. shortened teflon coated cable.
    Left grip weighed 76g incl. uncut std. cable. (this side has spring inside, so it may be little heavier than the right one)

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