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  1. #1
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    Quickest Way To Drop Some Weight

    Okay, so besides going on a diet.... cuz' thats not gonna happen...


    What is best/most cost effective ways to drop some weight on my bike??


    I'm riding an Aluminum Enduro/Trail bike and I'm willing to accept the added weight from the big beefy tires that I prefer to run (Maxxis DHF/DHR) ...


    What would be most effective and reasonably prices way to drop some weight..?

    - Cranks
    - Rims
    - Cassette
    - Wheel Build (rim,spokes,hub)


    It's gonna be one of the above... Entire wheel build will be expensive, but wanted to ask for opinions on this

    What should I do next to shed some weight?

  2. #2
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    Lighter wheels will make the biggest performance improvement of all those options. Both from a reduced overall weight perspective as well as a reduced rotational mass change.

  3. #3
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    Agree with wheels, although if you can get away with it, moving to a 1X setup would allow you to drop a ring, shifter, and front derailleur, assuming you are running 2X currently. That's among the best ways to shed weight, and cost can be minimal.

  4. #4
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    Changing only the rims and spokes for something lighter while keeping your current hubs would be a good thing. Chinese carbon rims with Sapim CX-Ray spokes may give you the best bang for your bucks.

  5. #5
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    If you do wheels and tires you will notice the weight reduction with every pedal stroke, climb, turn and downhill. It may Not be the cheapest option but it's the one that makes the biggest difference. Trust me I know how to build a light bike.
    My Bikes Kick Ass!!!

  6. #6
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    It's too hard to answer without knowing your exact current bike spec, and a budget helps too.

    As a quick example, if you've got a relatively entry level trail bike with a Sektor Silver fork, that may be ~2.2kg right there. Find a 2nd hand Revelation for $250 and you've just got yourself a fork with a nicer damper and dropped 400g off your front end.

    Also a lot of more entry-level bikes can have some crazy heavy bars/stems. Wheelsets can weight quite a bit too, however you probably don't want to compromise strength and a carbon wheel build often isn't cheap. Also consider where you want to loose it - maybe a front wheel first (cheaper, lightens the front, and it prob doesn't need to be as strong either). If doing a wheel build remember that rim weight matters more for rotating mass than hub etc.

    Cranks can weigh a lot, however unless you're running complete junk it's not cheap to drop 200g or so there.

    Don't go overboard with the amount of sealant you add to your tyres (you're running tubeless right?).

    If you're running a wide-range cassette (i.e. 11-46), re-analyse and re-consider what you really need. Common 11-36 10sp cassettes weigh quite a bit less than the cheaper 11sp ones, and they're much cheaper too.

    Essentially dropping weight is all about dropping little bits from everywhere unless you have unnecessary/overbuilt or entry-level parts.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lRaphl View Post
    ...Chinese carbon rims with Sapim CX-Ray spokes may give you the best bang for your bucks.
    Sapim Lasers are cheaper at the same weight (IIRC) if you're OK with some wind up when building.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by phreeky View Post
    It's too hard to answer without knowing your exact current bike spec, and a budget helps too.
    Couldn't agree more. Also, what riding you do and how much you weight. You can loose a lot of weight by going with 24h Stan's crest rims, but I wouldn't touch those wheels. they'd taco on me loading into the bike rack. Some riders (like me) want the 580gram rim.

    Not counting performance components people don't want to give up (steel handlebar for your twitchy nerves, wide tires cause you like the traction, that crazy internally geared hub). In general loose as much rotating weight as possible (tires > tubeless > rims > crankset > cassette > pedals > hub). crankset and cassette may be swapped based on how big the cassette is. After that, fork weight. After that, stationary weights (seat post, bottle cages, frame, stem, handlebar, drivetrain).

    Stationary weight is mostly irrelevant for normal riding except when extended climbing. Then, just like the spare tire around the gut, it's just added weight going up a hill. Use gears and suck it up.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  9. #9
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    This feedback has been a ton of help. I'm already running a 1x10 on the bike - no need for 1x11 as I'm fine with what I have - running 10-42 on the rear using a One Up Cog.

    Im looking at some new hoops and gonna build from there - realizing I can go lighter and wider with a small investment, then taking into recommendation some upgraded hubs and spokes.

    Im currently running a Fox 34 Float Evolution that I'm still happy with, and frankly don't want to spend the money upgrading the fork since it works great for my current needs.

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