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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by YB1
    Got to ask what you built this bike for...time trial handlebar, Di2, and cable operated disc brakes? It's an interesting combo, maybe like a dirt, uphill, TT bike?
    You left out the Look Road pedals.

  2. #402
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    The weight will be below 6 kg (13,22 lbs) when finished.

    Still waiting for tubular tires for my 980g Ax Lightness wheelset, and a lighter stem and cassette.

    It's not a tt bar, but a cutdown and reversed roadbar. The arm position is close to riding in the hoods on a roadbar, much more comfortable in long marathon races. Of course it's not ideal in technical terrain, but I have never been gapped in a technical section, so I don't see a problem with it. On the fireroads and gravel, it's more aerodynamic, and more comfortable. I can post a picture of it when finished, but you can see some pictures on an ongoing thread on WW, where you can see how I put the Di2 cables internally

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...p?f=10&t=71485

    The Look road pedals work great, I have actually completed Transalp Challenge with road pedals.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole
    I just put a Specialized spider on a Lightning crank, it fits no problem.


    Ole.

    Hmm, strange... When I found my loose spider (see my last post) I took the Lightning spider off and tried fitting a Specialized triple - it didn't fit.
    Looking at the crank and spider, it looks like it'll fit fine, but the splines didn't align perfectly and so the spider wouldn't seat flat.
    I didn't try to install the lockring though, because I had no intention to actually install the Specialized spider, just wanted to see if it would fit.

  4. #404
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    New question here. Advice please

    Just received my lightning cranks (thanks Nino!). 442gm for 'Extralite' version in 73mm BB, 175mm arms and ceramic/hybrid bearings.
    I have a Scott Scale LTD 2009 frame and wanted to check a few things about installation. Are you guys using a spacer on the drive side? The arm seems too close to the chainstay if I don't. And are you using the spider in the 2x9 position (with the protruding lip facing out) for 2x9 setup?
    I have the Extralite Gara and the chainline seems a bit too far outboard with the spider in 2x9 position. Quite a bit further out than with the Gara on my old 3x9 FSA cranks. I prefer a narrower chainline as I spend a lot of time in the larger cassette cogs and 42T chainring.
    Also, like a few others here, the cranks don't seem to spin very easily when installed. Is this because they are new? Or is there a trick? I have followed the instructions carefully.
    Lastly, is there a way to undo the spider lockring without the special tool - which (annoyingly) is not supplied with the cranks?
    Cheers

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmmaaaiiikkk
    Just received my lightning cranks (thanks Nino!). 442gm for 'Extralite' version in 73mm BB, 175mm arms and ceramic/hybrid bearings.
    I have a Scott Scale LTD 2009 frame and wanted to check a few things about installation. Are you guys using a spacer on the drive side? The arm seems too close to the chainstay if I don't. And are you using the spider in the 2x9 position (with the protruding lip facing out) for 2x9 setup?
    I have the Extralite Gara and the chainline seems a bit too far outboard with the spider in 2x9 position. Quite a bit further out than with the Gara on my old 3x9 FSA cranks. I prefer a narrower chainline as I spend a lot of time in the larger cassette cogs and 42T chainring.
    Also, like a few others here, the cranks don't seem to spin very easily when installed. Is this because they are new? Or is there a trick? I have followed the instructions carefully.
    Lastly, is there a way to undo the spider lockring without the special tool - which (annoyingly) is not supplied with the cranks?
    Cheers
    ahhh-you should have told me you are going to use the Gara rings. Those are supposed to be used on regular triple cranks, right? So the spider should be mounted for triple ,instead like it is, turned around for double. As you have it now it is supposed to be used with regular chainrings which then would have perfect chainline.

    There should be no spacer needed. I have the same cranks on my own Scott Scale as well.

    Bearings get adjusted by turning on that huge nut on the left side crank. It seems you have put too much preload then. Just loosen some and they should spin freely.

  6. #406
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    Thanks, Nino.
    I did mention that I was running a Gara, but no bother.
    How close is the arm to your chainstay? Mine really is very close to the stay, but I will give it a try without. If there is no flex I will be ok.
    As for the bearing, I tried it with the lockring backed right off and it is still not very free. It spins, but not as well as my old cranks, maybe they just need to settle in a bit.
    I don't know if the Gara is designed for a triple. I don't see why it matters really. The main ring is still hard up against the spider, so I don't see what the difference is between this and any other rings. I wanted the spacers for 2x9 (which you sent, thanks!) because I don't always use a Gara. I just find it shifts a lot better than, say, TA rings.
    Maybe I will see if my local bike shop can undo the spider lockring and try it the other way around. I am sure they don't have the lightning tool, but maybe something else will do the job?
    Cheers

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by YB1
    Got to ask what you built this bike for...time trial handlebar, Di2, and cable operated disc brakes? It's an interesting combo, maybe like a dirt, uphill, TT bike?
    I was thinking pure DH bike due to the lack of a chain and attention to aerodynamics.
    Keep the Country country.

  8. #408
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    So how much is a Lightning Spyder Lockring Removal Tool then? Not one of the half a dozen bike shops that I tried had a tool to remove the lockring. And nothing else worked. Lightning doesn't have a price on their website and no-one has responded to my email. So not really sure what to do! Hopefully they will reply soon. I really do think that they should include the tool with the crankset.

  9. #409
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    Best way to reach Lightning is to call them.
    I was expecting my removal tool yesterday, but it didn't show up. Hopefully today.
    Tool costs around $20

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattias_Hellöre
    Correct, I´m not really awake now.
    Very tired because of too much coffee

    But the SWorks cranks are better and more finely made than Lightnings side by side comparison really.

    But in WW the lightness is priority one.
    I agree with Mattias; the lightning cranks are not particularly well made in terms of finish.
    I have the 'extralite' version. On my set, the pedal inserts are not perfectly centred, the thread in one of the inserts was so badly machined that I had to clean it out in order to be able to thread the pedal in - even then it was difficult because of the poor machining - the paint quality on the metal surfaces is poor, as is the clear coat on the carbon, and the preload ring on the non-drive side was so stiff that it was difficult to turn (even though the instructions suggest turning by hand!).
    Other downsides I see - and these are not down to the quality of the manufacturing - are that the outer plastic seals on the bearings seem like an afterthought and do not look very watertight, you need to buy a special tool to change the interchangeable spider, and the cups can only be tightened and loosened by hand - they are easy enough to insert by hand with the supplied rubber sheet, but difficult to remove.
    The positives are that they are very light and (so far) have performed very well - and these are the two most important things.
    But I maintain that the quality of manufacturing is poor - the worst of any part on my bike, and the worst of any modern crankset I have seen. My previous set of FSA carbon cranks was much much better made in terms of finish. Maybe I just got unlucky, maybe not.
    So overall I am a little disappointed because I expected more from such an expensive crankset. But, as I say, they perform well and are very light.
    Do others agree? Or am I on my own (well ... with Mattias) in this opinion?
    By the way ... I am in no way trying to slight Nino here. He gave me good advice, a good price, and posted them without delay as soon as he received them. He is not responsible for the manufacturing of the cranks! I am just giving my honest opinion.
    Cheers

  11. #411
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    Creaking?

    Has anyone had any creaking issues with their Lightning cranks/ bottom bracket?

  12. #412
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    Guys, it's been a couple of months now since these Lightning cranks came out and I'm still taking my sweet time before I order a set for myself. Any of you guys had serious durability issues with their cranks aside from their crappy bearings? I'm asking because on a recent ride I smacked my XTR crankarm on a rock pretty hard that made a significant mark on it and it made me wonder if a Lightning crank could've survived such an impact. Can you guys please post pictures of your well worn/ridden/rock-smacked Lightning cranks please? Thanks guys.

  13. #413
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    You can't beat the performance and durability of the SRAM XX 156Q factor.


  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by levir
    You can't beat the performance and durability of the SRAM XX 156Q factor.
    Durability? You make me laugh! I have talked to a sponsored team over here in switzerland and they went through numerous BBs in half a year already...so durability seems definitely NOT a strong point of the XX cranks. The weight is ridiculous as well. I do like the Q-factor of the BB30 version and they say shifting is great howeever when trying out a XX equipped bike i wasn't all that impressed. The same guy from that team also mentioned that replacement rings are not too expensive which is another good point when compared to Shimano where you better buy a new crankset rather than just rings...
    Last edited by nino; 07-13-2010 at 11:00 PM.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by levir
    You can't beat the performance and durability of the SRAM XX 156Q factor.
    Sram -blind- fanboy Alert ˇ Alert ˇ Alert ˇ

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by levir
    You can't beat the performance and durability of the SRAM XX 156Q factor.
    But you sure can beat the weight!

    Seriously, though ... my lightning cranks ('extralite' version) have proved more durable than I thought. I have had a few rocks bang into them (nothing super hard, yet) and they didn't leave a mark. I doubt that they are as durable as a lot of cranks out there, but then they weigh hundreds of grams less.

    As with any lightweight parts there is a trade off for that weight; and clearly hollow carbon cranks that weigh 442gms with BB (that's what mine weigh) are going to compromise on durability.

    The bearings on the lightnings are a letdown - my ceramics lasted 3 weeks (!), but Tim kindly offered to replace them free of charge for the more durable steel ones (+10gms). I can't recommend the ceramic bearings.

    There is a little more maintenance as you have pay attention to the fact that the spider can come loose - mine did, but a little blue loctite seems to have fixed the problem.

    But ... bottom line ... great cranks, brilliant weight and performance ... probably not as durable as heavier ones.

  17. #417
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    I am definitely talking about the XX cranks and not the BB.

    Great choice if you are into racing, it sure felt like you are in the right gear all-the-time. Got to have legs to backed that up.

    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    Durability? You make me laugh! I have talked to a sponsored team over here in switzerland and they went through numerous BBs in half a year already...so durability seems definitely NOT a strong point of the XX cranks. The weight is ridiculous as well. I do like the Q-factor of the BB30 version and they say shifting is great howeever when trying out a XX equipped bike i wasn't all that impressed. The same guy from that team also mentioned that replacement rings are not too expensive which is another good point when compared to Shimano where you better buy a new crankset rather than just rings...

  18. #418
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    +1

    Agreed!


    Quote Originally Posted by mmmaaaiiikkk
    But you sure can beat the weight!

    Seriously, though ... my lightning cranks ('extralite' version) have proved more durable than I thought. I have had a few rocks bang into them (nothing super hard, yet) and they didn't leave a mark. I doubt that they are as durable as a lot of cranks out there, but then they weigh hundreds of grams less.

    As with any lightweight parts there is a trade off for that weight; and clearly hollow carbon cranks that weigh 442gms with BB (that's what mine weigh) are going to compromise on durability.

    The bearings on the lightnings are a letdown - my ceramics lasted 3 weeks (!), but Tim kindly offered to replace them free of charge for the more durable steel ones (+10gms). I can't recommend the ceramic bearings.

    There is a little more maintenance as you have pay attention to the fact that the spider can come loose - mine did, but a little blue loctite seems to have fixed the problem.

    But ... bottom line ... great cranks, brilliant weight and performance ... probably not as durable as heavier ones.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by levir
    I am definitely talking about the XX cranks and not the BB.

    Great choice if you are into racing, it sure felt like you are in the right gear all-the-time. Got to have legs to backed that up.
    Well-BBs are part of the crankset these days so if the BB dies it means the crankset has bad durability. To me it seems rhe XX is notr durable when i hear they went through numerous BBs during half a year even though it was a really wet parts of the year...

    Gearing on the other hand has not much to do with the cranks but rather with the choice of chainring sizes. You can have the same gearing in other cranks as well so that's nothing special , nothing which makes them better or worse than others. I personally wouldn't want the weird chainring sizes XX offers. It forces you to run the monster pizza-size 36t cassette which is not what i want at all.

  20. #420
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    Really? SRAM BBs are sold separately and not part of the SRAM XX crankset. You can choose a ceramic or standard bearings that is if you like to use SRAM BBs. Likewise, you have a choice of 32 or 36 rear cog.

    I am confident I did not disclose which BB I am using.

    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    Well-BBs are part of the crankset these days so if the BB dies it means the crankset has bad durability. To me it seems rhe XX is notr durable when i hear they went through numerous BBs during half a year even though it was a really wet parts of the year...

    Gearing on the other hand has not much to do with the cranks but rather with the choice of chainring sizes. You can have the same gearing in other cranks as well so that's nothing special , nothing which makes them better or worse than others. I personally wouldn't want the weird chainring sizes XX offers. It forces you to run the monster pizza-size 36t cassette which is not what i want at all.
    Last edited by levir; 07-14-2010 at 06:52 PM.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by levir
    Really?
    yes sir!

    You can also buy the chainringbolts separately so they are not part of your crankset as well...c'mon!

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    yes sir!

    You can also buy the chainringbolts separately so they are not part of your crankset as well...c'mon!

    Yes ... I see your point ...

    But I don't think that you can argue on one hand that a crankset is no good based on the BB that is available separately, and then on the other hand argue that the chainrings which are also available separately have nothing to do with the cranks! This is not fair arguing.

    Along these lines of reasoning, I would have to conclude that the Lightning cranks are rubbish because the BB bearings are poor (my ceramic bearings, as I have already stated, lasted only three weeks during one of the driest winters on record where I live!).

    But this is not the case, is it!? The Lightning cranks are very good!

    I am not wishing to start an argument, but just pointing out the flaw in this argument.

    For what it is worth, I think that the XX cranks are not what I would want - the BCD would not suit me, and I think that they are quite heavy.

    But we must argue fairly and from an unbiased position, otherwise, we end up in the kind of exchanges which sometimes demean this forum (and I am not referring to this thread in particular).

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmmaaaiiikkk

    But I don't think that you can argue on one hand that a crankset is no good based on the BB that is available separately, and then on the other hand argue that the chainrings which are also available separately have nothing to do with the cranks! This is not fair arguing.
    I wasn't talking about chainrings above but rather their sizes...the GEARING. The gearings is nothing special and nothing that makes one crankset better than another as you usually can adapt the gearing on most cranks...unless you have an XX with that weird BCD which makes it rather difficult to find different rings.

    My Lighning ceramic bearings are still running smooth. Maybe you had them thightened just a tad too thight right from the beginning? Anyway - you have the choice of more durable steel so no big problem. And the replacement bearings neither cost as much as do the ones of the XX.I was told the XX ceramic ones are really expensive and die even faster as well.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    I wasn't talking about chainrings above but rather their sizes...the GEARING. The gearings is nothing special and nothing that makes one crankset better than another as you usually can adapt the gearing on most cranks...unless you have an XX with that weird BCD which makes it rather difficult to find different rings.

    My Lighning ceramic bearings are still running smooth. Maybe you had them thightened just a tad too thight right from the beginning? Anyway - you have the choice of more durable steel so no big problem. And the replacement bearings neither cost as much as do the ones of the XX.I was told the XX ceramic ones are really expensive and die even faster as well.
    Ok ... perhaps I misunderstood your point. Sorry, if that is the case.

    You might be right about the over-tightening, but I don't think so. I was pretty careful. One of my bearings was full of dirt after a few rides! I think that the seals on the ceramics are not very good and that the plastic cover and tiny rubber o-ring is not very good at protecting the bearing beneath - most BB have a much more robust type of cover.

    But I still say 'thanks' for bringing my attention to the cranks. I think they are great.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisgarages
    Can you guys please post pictures of your well worn/ridden/rock-smacked Lightning cranks please?


    Lightning cranks survives at the moment , i have got them since february . Aragon's mostly hard rocky terrain and sand , riding among the forest terrain is still like desert very dry and rocky .


  26. #426
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    Thanks xctax! Have you ever bashed them against a rock? There aren't seem to be any major scratches at the end points of the cranks. Very nice trail!

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisgarages
    Thanks xctax! Have you ever bashed them against a rock? There aren't seem to be any major scratches at the end points of the cranks. Very nice trail!
    Mostly was rocks throwing to my cranks but i had big impacts in pedal zone that could be hiting both pedal and crank .
    I would not like to see any major scratches in my cranks ˇˇˇ
    Salu2
    Juan

  28. #428
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    I have taken some serious rock hits to the bottom of my cranks and so far no serious damage. I like to pedal through rock gardens and trail features to keep momentum going and also probably because of the amount of time I spend on a fixed gear that requires constant pedaling (tricky on a MTB fixed!). My version of the Lightening CS is the heavier of the two and I have the plastic dip on the ends of the arms to protect against impacts. So far these cranks are top performers, IMO.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lightning Carbon Cranks....light!!-p1000855.jpgweb.jpg  

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  29. #429
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    Thanks guys! Where'd you get those plastic dip/caps at the end of your crankarms? I would definitely put one on mine if ever I get those cranks.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisgarages
    Thanks guys! Where'd you get those plastic dip/caps at the end of your crankarms? I would definitely put one on mine if ever I get those cranks.
    The plastic caps are actually a plastic dip that Lightening installs/includes at no charge per request. It seems like a no-brainer to get these to protect against some of the small to medium impacts. The weight addition is very small, I think.
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  31. #431
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    Tips :

    1. Order the spider tool with your crank.
    2. Put blue locktite on the spider thread and on the main bolt thread.
    3. Use plastic spacer instead of the metal one. (less creaking, easier to tight the cups since the plastic compress a little)

    The cups on mine loosened a lot when tightened by hand. With some teflon tape and the gentle use of a pipe wrench , no more loosening or creaking.

    I bashed them heavily on a rock and the carbon is fine. Comparable to FSA crankset i've seen. Get the plastic dip if you can.

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnriden
    Has anyone had any creaking issues with their Lightning cranks/ bottom bracket?
    Warning: roadie response. I have Lightning (light version) on my Fuji SL/1.

    Yes on creaks. I need to periodically remove and grease my bearings. This is a quick operation, except as has been pointed out it's difficult to remove the bearings by hand, so I cheat with a wrench, which is prone to marking them. Perhaps the thread profile isn't as well matched as they should be.

    There's been quality control issues on these cranks, so it's possible a new set of bearings would solve the issue.

    The cranks come on and off super-easily. So it's just the BB cups which are a challenge.

    I really like the adjustable pre-load ring. My steel bearing set spins great with no play once I get the ring position dialed in. Hard to believe there's any significant power difference with ceramic.

    I actually think the cranks look quite good. If the logo hadn't been swiped from a truck, I wouldn't even mind that, although I could scrape off the sticker easily enough if I chose.

  33. #433
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    as for the bb cups and bearings
    right off the bat, i did not like the non splined cups, designed to be tightened by hand. then, just a few short weeks later, as with everybody else here, my ceramic bearings got real crappy.

    i got a set of empty vuma bb cups (and tool) from zipp and sent them out for a set of the top of the line enduro ceramic bearings to be installed

    many months later, smooooooth
    Racerick
    "The older I get, the faster I was"

  34. #434
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    After having a set of Enduro's turn to grinding dust on me when I'd installed them in a GPX BB, all that time thinking happy thoughts about all the extra speed I was getting out of my legs, I decided to stick with tried-and-true steel-is-real on my Lightning set. Since they turn much smoother than any SRAM or Shimano outboard crank I've used due to the load-adjustment (which SRAM now has, I believe), these comments aren't making me regret this investment of 10 grams or whatever it is.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerick
    as for the bb cups and bearings
    right off the bat, i did not like the non splined cups, designed to be tightened by hand. then, just a few short weeks later, as with everybody else here, my ceramic bearings got real crappy.

    i got a set of empty vuma bb cups (and tool) from zipp and sent them out for a set of the top of the line enduro ceramic bearings to be installed

    many months later, smooooooth
    Vumaquad cups works ?

    Which tool do they need ?

    Do they have some sort of seal over the bearings ?

  36. #436
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    yes, tim at lightening referred me to zipp after going through a couple sets of the garbage he supplies

    a friend of mine got the complete cups with bearings, but i didn't like the gold color of the cups, so i got the gun metal color w/o bearings

    a special zipp cup tool is used and made by pedros, but actually, i had tim at lightning get me one

    yes, of course they have a seal, both the zipp bearings (my friend got) and the enduro bearing i got

    by the way, the cups/bearings he got were under $150
    https://store.zipp.com/

    if i remember correctly, they dont sell the tool separately
    Racerick
    "The older I get, the faster I was"

  37. #437
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    The Zipp site shows multiple colors, but the order form doesn't allow color selection.

    I admit those bearings are tempting. Nothing at all wrong with my Lightning bearings, except for that pesky creaking which pops up periodically.


  38. #438
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    Have any of you seen details on this crank from Eurobike? Looks like a 28/40 but the card is too blurry to see a weight.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/10498357...urobikeFredag#


  39. #439
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    it says 675g for 175mm, in the link you can magnify it but its still blury
    RAH!

  40. #440
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    I just want to say that I´m very happy that nino has been censored from this forum. Truth is that i relly don´t care anymore, but a seller of crap should be banned. Not just for selling (the reason why he has been banned) but for been a stealer more than a seller. He still owe me some money and i will never get that back because he is not a real company, he paid no taxes and u can´t complaint anywhere about his activities cause he is not a reall company/shop, he is a lier, who lives in switzerland, which is a fiscal paradise, is not even european union. His behaviour is more like a southern italian rather than a swiss, and yes, under swiss law, he must have broke a few laws quite some times each, taxes evasion, etc... etc... if swiss government would know about his illegal activities without paying taxes, he would have quite some problems now...

  41. #441
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    Hey MaLoL maybe you should copy and paste your anti-Nino post into every weight weenie thread just incase some of us miss it :-)

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddy02
    Have any of you seen details on this crank from Eurobike? Looks like a 28/40 but the card is too blurry to see a weight.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/10498357...urobikeFredag#

    This is the crankset I've been waiting for.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerick
    yes, tim at lightening referred me to zipp after going through a couple sets of the garbage he supplies
    [...]
    by the way, the cups/bearings he got were under $150
    https://store.zipp.com/
    I looked at the Zipp store and all I see is a ceramic bearings for a 129$. Where did you see metalic bearings on their website?

  44. #444
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    Hello guys! I will be ordering a set already but the shop where I'm ordering them from only supplies them with ceramic bearings which I know lasts like a sneeze. Any of you guys know where to get replacement bb bearings or bb assemblies for these? Aside from getting from Tim of Lightning. He is so hard to communicate with. No response no nothing even I when I told them to send me the bill for my new cranks-still nothing.
    Last edited by morrisgarages; 10-01-2010 at 05:48 PM.

  45. #445
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    Any updates on these cranks? People still happy with them?

  46. #446
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    Happy? I'm sure that a lot of people are not happy with them, but after spending that amount of money they're staying quiet.

    Firstofall the sealing of the bearings sux - I had to replace them (metalic ones) after only one season. This year I will stay away from mud, maybe that will help. Second, the binder bold gets loose easily so be prepared to have your allen wrench with you all the time (loctite is a must!). But the worst thing is constant creaks - I hear it every turn and it's making me crazy. It looks like spindle spacer is not accurate enough but I'm not quite sure that this is the problem. Maybe it's just carbon nature.

    I can tell you this - if you don't mind getting "dirty" from time to time and you like to spend your time with your bike (not accually riding it - I do), you won't find lighter crank for that money. But (and it is a big BUT) you just want to ride it and don't like to mess with parts, buy a Shimano or Sram and you can forget about all that problems.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisgarages
    Any of you guys know where to get replacement bb bearings or bb assemblies for these?
    You can find them in any store selling mechanical bearings (which are sealed by design), they are same as Shimano or Sram but with a bigger inner diameter. Look for 42x30x7mm.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cezex
    Happy? I'm sure that a lot of people are not happy with them, but after spending that amount of money they're staying quiet.

    Firstofall the sealing of the bearings sux - I had to replace them (metalic ones) after only one season. This year I will stay away from mud, maybe that will help. Second, the binder bold gets loose easily so be prepared to have your allen wrench with you all the time (loctite is a must!). But the worst thing is constant creaks - I hear it every turn and it's making me crazy. It looks like spindle spacer is not accurate enough but I'm not quite sure that this is the problem. Maybe it's just carbon nature.

    I can tell you this - if you don't mind getting "dirty" from time to time and you like to spend your time with your bike (not accually riding it - I do), you won't find lighter crank for that money. But (and it is a big BUT) you just want to ride it and don't like to mess with parts, buy a Shimano or Sram and you can forget about all that problems.
    I have had Lightnings (special 'extralite' version from Nino) for about a year. I have had many races and hard muddy and rocky rides with them.

    First the bad: the finish is poor in comparison to the Speshs and the plastic covers and o-rings that (are supposed to) protect the bearings from water and mud etc. do a poor job of it. The ceramic bearings will be destroyed very quickly. Get the steel bearings. I have had no problems with the steel bearings, despite lots of water and mud. They still spin as smoothly as new.

    The good: very, very light, pretty durable (I have hit some rocks very hard with nothing more than a small chip - no worse than my old FSA carbon cranks), and stiff.

    Apart from the ceramic bearing issue, I have had none of the problems that Cezex mentions (above). The joining bolt has never come loose on me. The spider lock-ring has loosened once, but not again once some blue Loctite was applied. My cranks have never creaked.

  49. #449
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    This is what I've got after racing in mud. I got binder bolt loose during a ride couple of times (I haven't got a alley wrench back then with me) causing play on crank arms. As you can see the anodizing on the spindle is partially destroyed. I managed to clean it up so now it looks much better, but this change is irreversible. Fortunately that area does not interfere with anything.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lightning Carbon Cranks....light!!-img_8460.jpg  


  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cezex
    This is what I've got after racing in mud. I got binder bolt loose during a ride couple of times (I haven't got a alley wrench back then with me) causing play on crank arms. As you can see the anodizing on the spindle is partially destroyed. I managed to clean it up so now it looks much better, but this change is irreversible. Fortunately that area does not interfere with anything.
    Ah ... that's no good.

    But, to be fair, the damage is not caused by riding in mud. It is caused by riding when the cranks are not properly fitted.

    It is important to use blue Loctite or an equivalent and make sure that the main fixing bolt is securely fastened, and check it regularly for the first few rides, to make sure it is all ok.

  51. #451
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    Seems like the same sh!) is always being said and I

    feel like I need to support Lightning a little.

    First off I use these cranks on my everyday/race bike. They are my only pair so they get ridden a lot. Here's a little history on them. Bought them directly from Tim (who is super easy to talk to and deal with) 190mm standard version with steel bearings. After about 3/4 of a season of riding and racing my left crank arm snapped by the pedal insert. Called Tim and he said they had some failures on early models and would make me a new one and add material to the drive side arm. I also told him that my bearings were shot and he supplied me with new bearing along with the new arm. In my book job well done...

    Now riding with the new arm and reinforced drive arm (which I was a little skeptical of) the drive arm broke same spot as the previous. So I called Tim and explained everything and after a little wait, I requested that a complete new crankset to be made and he did while beefing the arms up more at my request.

    All the new parts are back together and have only ridden a couple of times so far, Winters here now. But I feel pretty confident in the arms.

    So it is true the Bearing do suck. When my current ones are fried I will buy the Zipp's, better bearings, you can replace them to your hearts content with any Enduros they make.

    Also you need to be diligent in setting up correctly and maintaining it too. After all these times taking on and off I found the ideal setting up procedure to last the longest. First be sure to clean the TI binding bolt with alcohol real good before applying alot of blue loctie. Next I use Phil woods grease on the spindle right about where the bearing race and spindle come in contact (keep the water out), Then I add a few drips of Pedros Syn lube around the plastic bearing covers. Slap all together and crank the binding bolt real tight and let sit for 24 hours. Wollla Done.

    You should be set for the season of riding without any odd incidents. Note I am a 220# rider on a XXL Sultan and I have hit the arms on rocks and threw rocks onto the arm. Relatively no damage. Strong cranks I love them.
    High Ho Sultan, Lets GO

  52. #452
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    Don't get me wrong - I never said that this is a bad crank. It has some issues to deal with but I'm still riding it. Tim is a very busy guy so he does not respond to emails ASAP, but he is also understanding - he suplied me with new bearings for free!

    But, to be fair, the damage is not caused by riding in mud. It is caused by riding when the cranks are not properly fitted.
    In fact it did. It happened after racing in muddy / wet conditions (of course the source of the problem was the loose spindle).

    First be sure to clean the TI binding bolt with alcohol real good before applying alot of blue loctie. Slap all together and crank the binding bolt real tight and let sit for 24 hours.
    I confirm. After many trials I came to the same conclusions - it's the key to successfull use of these cranks.

  53. #453
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    Well your lightning cranks broke twice and you feel that you should support ligtning a bit... NICE
    I'm also glad that you're confident in them. Confident that you'll brake them again? NICE


    I never liked them for the first time because they have bad design, bad looks bad engineering and F**** high pricetag for what you get.. ridiculous.

    I now know where they got the inspiration for the lightnings:

  54. #454
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    I couldn't post better sergio!!!!

  55. #455
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Ti warning!!

    Just a word of caution.

    The Ti crank bolt threaded into dissimilar metal, when exposure to a lot of water --- can completely seize (electrolysis) if you don't use Ti prep -- I know everyone wants the cranks secure, but they must be able to be removed at some point too, promise I know from experience.

    Also bb30 type bearings in cross bikes often become toast very quickly -- the bearing issue isn't unique to lightning--

    just my 2 cents or $700 advice



    Quote Originally Posted by 29or6to4
    feel like I need to support Lightning a little.

    First be sure to clean the TI binding bolt with alcohol real good before applying alot of blue loctie..
    Jt

    Here are a few Video Trail Guides I shot - just for fun:
    http://destinationproductions.com/cu...PassionTrails/

  56. #456
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    So what do you guys say? I mean the actual users of lightning crankset!

    Is it worth it? I am after durability and lightness.

    Ax lightness is well behind with their MTB cranks, THM has always been my dream, but could use the extra $ on something else

    Get it or not? Will be happy with it or regret it?

    Chris.

  57. #457
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    Lots of good info. I already decided on Next SL, even though their track record isn't perfect...

  58. #458
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    Next SL is another level, below. We are talking lightweight here. What I ask the users is whether Lightning is worth its low price for durabilty and performance.

    Chris.

  59. #459
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    So what do you guys say? I mean the actual users of lightning crankset! Is it worth it? I am after durability and lightness.
    Considering the hassle I would choose something else (but as far as I know others don't have as bad experieces as I had). But if your main goal is to loose wait and you mostly ride in dry conditions than you won't find anything better. Remember though, for me mud = problems (if you'll clean the BB every muddy ride than you'll probably ommit any problems with it).

  60. #460
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    As said above not all have had bad times. I went these cranks because of the avaiable length 190mm, stiffness, and the weight savings over my previous aluim 190's. You might find other options out there but if your lookin for longer or shorter than the norm these cranks are perfect. Good luck w your decision.
    High Ho Sultan, Lets GO

  61. #461
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    inner chainring bolts

    Does anyone know where you can get the 12mm chainring bolts and 5mm spacers for inner chainring for the lightning cranks in black? Thanks

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by hurtknee
    Does anyone know where you can get the 12mm chainring bolts and 5mm spacers for inner chainring for the lightning cranks in black? Thanks
    Chainring bolts - look at http://www.bikehardest.net.
    Spacers - I've just ordered mine in a small bike shop here in Poland. I did not find them anywhere else (didn't look for it to much though).

  63. #463
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    Hello,

    I just purchased some brand new Lightning mountain cranks. I am having difficulty installing pedals to these brand new/never used cranks. I fully understand that both L and R pedals are threaded differently and that to install a R side you turn clockwise while the L side you turn counter-clockwise. I have also greased the pedal threads. So, here is my problem.

    When I try to hand screw them in, the pedals will not engage into the crank threads. If I try to use an allen key, it seizes after maybe 1.5 turns. I do not want to proceed any further as I am afraid of damaging the threads. I have also tried installing pedal from opposite side of crank and get the same results. I have tried 5 sets of different pedals which include Eggbeater Sl, Eggbeater Ti, Eggbeater 4Ti, and Candy 4Ti, and Wellgo platforms. I have already tried cleaning them out with degreaser.

    I included some pictures of the crank arm threads and have removed the included washer so you can see better inside. Compared to other pics in this thread, my threads seem to have a black hardened residue instead of a clean shiny aluminum appearance on the outermost part of the opening......and it won't come off.

    Are my cranks defective?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lightning Carbon Cranks....light!!-roadsl-435.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images   

  64. #464
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    I had a similar problem. I used a sharp point to scrape out the first couple of threads of any burrs or nasty bits and then just said my prayers and screwed them in with some force and all was ok. The quality control and finish on the lightning cranks is poor. There is a lot of variation and most cranks have finish problems with the inserts or bolt holes/coupling joints with burrs or rough aluminium carbon bits. But the after sales service is (thankfully) excellent. So just do your best and if you can't get them in email Tim at lightning and he will provide some solution. He really is good about these sort of things.

  65. #465
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    Thank you for your advice. I was freaking out because these things aren't cheap.

  66. #466
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    You could thread the pedal in on the other side of the crank, this may help clean up threads on the correct side. Remove then thread pedal in correct side.

  67. #467
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    I tried it from the other side and it is just as bad. The pedal will not insert by hand and if I use the allen key it seizes after 1/2 turn. There is so much hardened gunk on both ends. I tried scraping it off but it is very hard and will not budge. I am going to reach out to Lightning tomorrow and see what they say.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29or6to4 View Post
    I requested that a complete new crankset to be made and he did while beefing the arms up more at my request.
    How much more did the beefed up set weigh?

  69. #469
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    One hint from my cranks: they can develop an annoying and persistent creaking. If so, it is likely the spider needs to be lubed and tightened. I also find the need to occasionally apply some oil to the spider. With this problem excepted, I really love my cranks. They are expensive, but for BSA cranks the weight is hard to beat at anywhere close to the same price, and with the adjustable pre-load the cranks spin super-smoothly.

    Another potential issue is with the recessed pedals. This reduces pedal stance (Q-factor) but makes is slightly harder to grip the flats with a pedal wrench and may well present a compatibility problem with pedal-based power meters like the Polar Look and the Garmin Vector (which is was just re-announced for this year).

  70. #470
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    Chase the threads with an appropriate tap... Park and Hozan offer pedal tap sets.

  71. #471
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    I called Lightning and spoke to Tim. He was very helpful on the phone and suggested I have the threads re-tapped. I am not a pro mechanic so I shipped them back to have It done professionally considering these cranks are brand new. I hope to get them back soon.

  72. #472
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    I got my Lightning Cranks back. I ended up sending them to Fairwheel bikes where I purchased them. What excellent service. They called me when they received my cranks and then they called me again to tell me they retapped the threads and successfully mounted several pedals just to be sure. If anyone is going to buy Lightning cranks, get them from Fairwheel bikes. I experienced some of the best service from these guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lightning Carbon Cranks....light!!-lightning-mounted.jpg  


  73. #473
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    That is a sick bike! Looks like something from the WeightWeenies forum.

  74. #474
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    Why is your rear QR on the right?
    I assume just quick slap together

  75. #475
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    It's because the bike's so light if he doesn't balance the weight of the quick-releases it will tend to steer to the left.

  76. #476
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    Yes it is a quick slap together. I am still waiting for my brakes and shifters. After I install all the parts, I need to cut the seat post. If you were wondering, the frame is a repainted 09 Scott Scale RC.

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddy02 View Post
    How much more did the beefed up set weigh?
    You know eddy I never did weigh them after but they still felt very light and did not look like a lot of extra material on the outside. I'll get the weight soon and check.
    High Ho Sultan, Lets GO

  78. #478
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    I've been using Lightning HDs on my Scott Genius LT freeride/enduro bike for 1 1/2 years now with no problems. I use this bike for lots of jumping at the Frisco and Valmont bike parks including the occassional case and one foot landing. Lots of full-on DH runs at resorts and coming down from high mtn passes. The bearings even still feel good.
    Keep the Country country.

  79. #479
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    Ride this Lightning crank on Stumpjumper.
    First rides I hade the same problem, than glued it thogether.
    Unfortunately it was too late, because this problem can results in broken crank axle.
    Very ugly, Lightning disappointed me.
    From Switzerland

  80. #480
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    I can tell you they'll sell you cranks without the sticker.
    Keep the Country country.

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