Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67

    Lightening my 2013 specialized rockhopper 29er

    I'm in need of some help in lightening my rockhopper 29er any input is greatly appreciated and links to thanks in advanced

    Btw I'm a noob so I really do appreciate the help I'm just gettin back into serious biking after 8 years

    Thanks again Lightening my 2013 specialized rockhopper 29er-imageuploadedbytapatalk1343118995.541218.jpg
    And of course the bike for you guys to look at

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    28
    Wheels. Depending on your weight, but a wheelset with some good reliable hubs (Hope, DT, Shimano, or maybe some Tune or American classic ones if you want something lighter) + Stans crest rims should do the trick. Make sure you get a good builder to build them for you.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67
    I weigh 215 and I'm 6 feet tall

  4. #4
    T.W.O
    Reputation: pfox90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1,729
    Don't buy stans crests then, they have a weight limit of 190
    ------__o
    ----_`\<,_
    ---(_)/ (_)

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67
    ok do you have any suggestions of what i can do to reduce the weight of my bike

  6. #6
    MD Rider
    Reputation: Tim_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    67
    Remove your reflectors.

    Give us a spec sheet of what's on your bike already.

    Lightweight tires and tubes are probably the CHEAPEST route. Better wheels are going to lighten it up a lot, but you're going to spend around $500 to save 2-4 lbs there.

    How much does it weigh now?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67
    i dont know the exact weight dont have a way of weighing it

    here is the spec sheet you wanted
    FRAME Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum, 29er frame, fully butted w/ tapered headtube, forged dropouts, alloy replaceable der. hanger
    REAR SHOCK
    FORK SR Suntour SF13-XCM-LO 29", hydraulic damping w/ lockout, coil/MCU spring, 1-1/8" steel steerer, alloy disc only post mount lower, 30mm Hi-Ten stanchion, preload adj., 80mm & 100mm travel
    HEADSET Integrated 1-1/8" w/ lower bearing reducer, Campy-style, full cartridge bearings
    STEM Specialized 3D forged alloy, 4 bolt clamp, 6 rise, 31.8mm
    HANDLEBARS Flat bar, 6061 double butted alloy, 700mm wide, 10 backsweep, 4 upsweep, 31.8mm
    GRIPS Specialized Body Geometry XCT, Kraton rubber w/ gel, closed end, 132mm, lock-on
    FRONT BRAKE Tektro HDC 300, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Lightwave style rotor, 180mm
    REAR BRAKE Tektro HDC 300, hydraulic disc, dual piston, Lightwave style rotor, 160mm
    BRAKE LEVERS Tektro, hydraulic lever
    FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera, 9-speed, 34.9 clamp, high-mount, bottom swing
    REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Alivio, 9-speed, SGS cage
    SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Acera, 9-speed Rapidfire plus, SL type w/ optical display
    CASSETTE Shimano HG20-9, 9-speed cassette, 11-34
    CHAIN KMC X-9, 9-speed w/ reusable Missing Link
    CRANKSET SR Suntour XCR, 9-speed, Octalink
    CHAINRINGS 44/32/22, steel
    BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 73mm
    PEDALS Composite platform, w/ reflectors, 9/16"
    RIMS RH Disc, 29", alloy double-wall, 26mm, pin joint, 36h
    FRONT HUB Specialized MTB disc hub, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, QR, 32h
    REAR HUB Specialized MTB disc hub, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, steel cassette body, QR, 32h
    SPOKES Stainless, 2.0mm (14g)
    FRONT TIRE Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29x2.1", wire bead, 60TPI
    REAR TIRE Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29x2.1", wire bead, 60TPI
    INNER TUBES Presta valve
    SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry Rockhopper, steel rails, 143mm width
    SEATPOST Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm, 350mm or 400mm
    SEAT BINDER 34.9mm, alloy QR, nylon washer
    NOTES chainstay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual

  8. #8
    MD Rider
    Reputation: Tim_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    67
    Do you have a bathroom scale in your house? Weigh yourself, then pick up your bike and weigh you and your bike, then subtract your own weight from that total. It wont be super accurate, but it's better than nothing.

    Looking at the spec sheet, the RH with the A1 frame is the entry level. It's a little heavier than the M5, but it's also fitted with all the lower end components. Now that's not to say the components are no good - they work fine - but they are all going to be a little heavier than their more expensive models. With that in mind, I would replace what you can budget for with better stuff when the original stuff wears out.

    How much do you want to spend on this project? Unfortunately you might find that the cost of making your bike lighter plus the initial purchase of the bike will cost more than if you'd purchased the higher end RH or Stumpjumper. I've been in your shoes myself.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Trail_Blazer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    1,484
    tried to list these in the order of priority but the real world will vary some.


    Phase 1:
    These could possibly save you 1-2 pounds for pretty cheap if you shop around for the new parts and look for the best deals.

    Handlebars
    Seat post
    Stem
    Tubeless Kit for Tires
    ----------------------

    Phase 2:
    These can add up to more weight savings of 2-4 pounds but will cost more.

    Brake Levers
    Brake Calipers
    Cassette
    Bottom Bracket
    Shifters
    Front Derailleur
    Rear Derailleur
    ----------------------

    Phase 3:

    More expensive per item but weight savings could be the most significant too.
    Front Shock
    Rear Shock
    Wheels (Rim + Hub + Spokes)
    Carbon Bike Frame

  10. #10
    MD Rider
    Reputation: Tim_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    67
    I think he's already removed the rear shock listed in phase 3.

  11. #11
    Ridin' Furry
    Reputation: Huskywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    295
    Just go out and ride it man. At 200 pounds you shouldn't be worrying about weight on your bike just yet.

  12. #12
    ijd
    ijd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    50
    First thing I'd do is wheels, light tires & tubeless conversion. Ashima brake rotors are light and cheap so they can also be fitted if the budget allows. Are those pedals plastic? If they are I'd replace them with Wellgo MG1's or Shimano SPD's.
    Next thing I'd do is handle bars & seatpost. Other than that I'd leave the bike as is and upgrade parts as they wear out or get a higher end bike in a few years and put the upgraded parts (wheels, handle bar, seapost) onto the new bike.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,916
    Ride it until something breaks/wears out and then replace that part with something better and lighter.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67
    Thanx

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    777
    Well first of all it is a nice bike, I like that paint job. Depends on the budget. You may be like me and have to do it little by little. I would not do it in phases, but maybe you would. I personally would just buy what I can afford, IMO.

    First there is 454 grams in a pound. Most bike parts are all weighed in grams. You want to save a pound then you have save 454 grams somewhere on the bike.

    1. I would go with some Easton Haven Carbon bars, 170g. Depending on your weight, if your under 200lbs I would go with Easton EC70 bars, 155g. If you have money I would go with Schmolke Carbon Low riser TLO bars [these suckers weight 90g as opposed to your specialized bars that may weigh about 280g-300g].

    Depending on what you go with you could save from 220g-120g on nice carbon bar.

    2. I would go with a seat and seat post. THere is thread going on about this in "weight weenies" but I'll drop a couple of seats that are most comfortable and light. They both weight in at about 120g. The first is Selle San Marco Aspide Carbon FX, its available in black too. The second is the 2012 Selle Italia Kit carbino SLR Flow saddle. From your stock seat, which may weight in at about 280-300g or more, you could be saving around 180g! That is nice.

    Next a carbon post. I would go with the slick looking Fizik Cyrano carbon stem. It weighs in around 200g and would save you about 100g from your stock post. If you really want lighter you do a KCNC Scandium 152gm, this would save you about 150g or less, over your stock steel post.

    3. Front Shock. Well I recommend Rockshox Reba, light weight fork great reputation (weighs in at 1584g). Next in the Reba weight category I would recommend the Fox Float 29 shock, its been revamped for 2013 year with CTD technology and its now lighter than the 2012 Fox (now weighs 1710grams). Then you have the lightest of my recommendations and that is the 2013 Rockshox SID fork, weights are variable depending on which one you go with but the World cup SID starts at 1450g to heaviest SID XX at 1643g. Of course it all depends on funds. The shock will be the most expensive so far. All shock listed here could average around $600-$900. You will save probably around 250g on replacing a shock or more. THe best bang for your buck if on a budget would be the Reba.

    4. Crankset. I'll recommend one of the lightest. You could also go 2x10 for even lighter weight savings. RaceFace makes the "Next SL carbon" crankset (the 2x10 is 595g) (3x10 is 682g) now this is light! You could save another 250-300grams off your stock crankset. There is also XTR crankset 3x10 (755g), then SRAM Xo crankset 3x10 (780g).

    5. Brakes: I would only recommend XT or XTR brakes. THe XT brakes weigh in at 590 front and rear, XTR trail brakes are 516g front and rear combined. Then XTR race brakes are 480g front and rear. Best are XTR, not far behind are XT. I have XT and love em. These will save you aprox. 150g or more.

    6. Rear cassette: Go with a SRAM XX, it weighs in at 211g and will save you probably close to 200g.

    7. Cables: go with Power Cordz, these will probably save you around 50g.

    8. Derailleur: XTR Shadow plux is only 226g and may save you 80-100g.

    9. Shifters, XTR or XX, this would have to depend on your preference but there is some savings on weight to be had here.

    10. Wheels: This depends on your weight. Over 200 less options, under 200 many more options. This is one the best places to spend your money. IF you sell the bike you can keep the wheels and put them on your new bike. Weight savings depends on what you go with, carbon or aluminum, rim width, hubs, spokes, or stock build, etc. Too many to list to give a concrete weight or the actual savings.

    11. Tires. Lighter tires can also make a huge difference. Some can weigh as low as 490g and upwards of 950g and more. Seems like your weigh in at 670g and that is a respectable weight.

    So I hope this helps somewhat or gives you some ideas of what you can do. These are in no particular order, but only in the order you want and according to your budget. Many will probably disagree with my recommendations but that is all they are. IMO...

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    777
    I meant to tell you, as you now have suspected that to lighten a bike it costs and you will pay for it. The lighter you go more you pay. Some say the best thing to do is buy a bike that is already lighter, but again you will pay. I suspect that those spending 2-5 grand on a bike still cant leave it alone. YOu always customize, a little here and a little there.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: buzzo2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    67
    I'm gonna start doing some shopping prob start with wheels first then bars stem and seat post and saddle it's gonna be fun to manage my money since I already have a bad habit of spending money on my jeep which has fox shocks already and Ik it's not cheap to customize stuff already but I will post updates as I get them thank you all for the advice

    Time to go shopping

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    Well first of all it is a nice bike, I like that paint job. Depends on the budget. You may be like me and have to do it little by little. I would not do it in phases, but maybe you would. I personally would just buy what I can afford, IMO.

    First there is 454 grams in a pound. Most bike parts are all weighed in grams. You want to save a pound then you have save 454 grams somewhere on the bike.

    1. I would go with some Easton Haven Carbon bars, 170g. Depending on your weight, if your under 200lbs I would go with Easton EC70 bars, 155g. If you have money I would go with Schmolke Carbon Low riser TLO bars [these suckers weight 90g as opposed to your specialized bars that may weigh about 280g-300g].

    Depending on what you go with you could save from 220g-120g on nice carbon bar.

    2. I would go with a seat and seat post. THere is thread going on about this in "weight weenies" but I'll drop a couple of seats that are most comfortable and light. They both weight in at about 120g. The first is Selle San Marco Aspide Carbon FX, its available in black too. The second is the 2012 Selle Italia Kit carbino SLR Flow saddle. From your stock seat, which may weight in at about 280-300g or more, you could be saving around 180g! That is nice.

    Next a carbon post. I would go with the slick looking Fizik Cyrano carbon stem. It weighs in around 200g and would save you about 100g from your stock post. If you really want lighter you do a KCNC Scandium 152gm, this would save you about 150g or less, over your stock steel post.

    3. Front Shock. Well I recommend Rockshox Reba, light weight fork great reputation (weighs in at 1584g). Next in the Reba weight category I would recommend the Fox Float 29 shock, its been revamped for 2013 year with CTD technology and its now lighter than the 2012 Fox (now weighs 1710grams). Then you have the lightest of my recommendations and that is the 2013 Rockshox SID fork, weights are variable depending on which one you go with but the World cup SID starts at 1450g to heaviest SID XX at 1643g. Of course it all depends on funds. The shock will be the most expensive so far. All shock listed here could average around $600-$900. You will save probably around 250g on replacing a shock or more. THe best bang for your buck if on a budget would be the Reba.

    4. Crankset. I'll recommend one of the lightest. You could also go 2x10 for even lighter weight savings. RaceFace makes the "Next SL carbon" crankset (the 2x10 is 595g) (3x10 is 682g) now this is light! You could save another 250-300grams off your stock crankset. There is also XTR crankset 3x10 (755g), then SRAM Xo crankset 3x10 (780g).

    5. Brakes: I would only recommend XT or XTR brakes. THe XT brakes weigh in at 590 front and rear, XTR trail brakes are 516g front and rear combined. Then XTR race brakes are 480g front and rear. Best are XTR, not far behind are XT. I have XT and love em. These will save you aprox. 150g or more.

    6. Rear cassette: Go with a SRAM XX, it weighs in at 211g and will save you probably close to 200g.

    7. Cables: go with Power Cordz, these will probably save you around 50g.

    8. Derailleur: XTR Shadow plux is only 226g and may save you 80-100g.

    9. Shifters, XTR or XX, this would have to depend on your preference but there is some savings on weight to be had here.

    10. Wheels: This depends on your weight. Over 200 less options, under 200 many more options. This is one the best places to spend your money. IF you sell the bike you can keep the wheels and put them on your new bike. Weight savings depends on what you go with, carbon or aluminum, rim width, hubs, spokes, or stock build, etc. Too many to list to give a concrete weight or the actual savings.

    11. Tires. Lighter tires can also make a huge difference. Some can weigh as low as 490g and upwards of 950g and more. Seems like your weigh in at 670g and that is a respectable weight.

    So I hope this helps somewhat or gives you some ideas of what you can do. These are in no particular order, but only in the order you want and according to your budget. Many will probably disagree with my recommendations but that is all they are. IMO...
    Such a wealth of great info-should be a sticky for a beginner weight weenie

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8
    yeah lighter wheels

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •