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  1. #1
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    Light weight valves

    Ok, so I am collecting parts for a wheel build. They won't be super light mind you as I will be running Hope hubs but I've wanted them for a long time, got a good deal and they should be here in a day or so. In any case, I am going to need to get some valves and figure I will try to find some lighter ones to go with my Crest rims (which I will be ordering real soon). I have seen Stans of course but also saw a post where someone mentioned AC (assuming this is American Classic) and that they were red (which is cool because the wheels will have red hubs and nipples w/ black rims/spokes). Just trying to find out what is out there, what seems to work well, and if indeed they are available in colors or if that is even worth it.

  2. #2
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    Got my answer on the AC valves: Tubeless Parts

    Might just go with these unless you guys know of something better/lighter....

  3. #3
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    Interesting. Report back in on how much these weigh compared to Stans or Mavic valves.
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  4. #4
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    Well, I saw this posted in the "post your lightweight bikes" thread by ajay about his Cannondale
    "Tubes: Notubes Sealant 2x30ml + AC Red Valve Tuned - 66,1g"

    I believe his bike is a 26 though so of course the amount of tape would be different. None the less, the tape can't weigh that much so I am guessing maybe around 30-32g ea / per valve????

    None the less, my current wheels while bomb proof are quite heavy.

    Velocity VXC rims (eye litted)
    Stans conversion tape and rubber rim strip (I was in a rush when I swapped from 26-29 and just ran the same strip...long story w/ several problems in the process....)
    Brass nipples
    DT Swiss comp spokes
    WI hubs
    WI trials fw (run a ss) best fw out there but heavy at 203g!

    New wheels will be:
    Stans Crest
    DT allow nips (red)
    DT swiss comp spokes (black)
    Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs (SS) in red
    HBC 18t cog in red
    AC valves
    Stans yellow tape

    Not sure what I'll do about cog spacers and lock ring. Anything light out there? Available in RED??? Links??? Sorry, haven't run a cog set up on a bike in probably 4 years now.

  5. #5
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    The goal of this wheel build is to allow me to slap some meatier tires on the current wheels (WTB Bronsons) and use them for bad weather or off season and the new wheels with my Maxxis Ikon's for an over all faster rolling and somewhat lighter build for the summer.

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    viva la v-brakes!
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    Well, my Mavic valves come in at 5 g, so I don't know how much we're really saving here. Maybe the stan's weigh more since they are brass? I think the Mavics are steel. Anyway, good to know, not going to bother 'upgrading' but if I need to buy new ones due to damage I'll give the American Classics a try.
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  8. #8
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    I recently ordered the AC valves from outside outfitters. They are ridiculously light.

    Where'd you find a deal on the hope hubs?

  9. #9
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    Well, the hubs actually have a bit of a story behind them. I had basically bought something else from this seller in the past and had a bit of a problem. After all the drama we went thru trying to get the issue corrected with the manufacturer he ended up giving me a pretty steep discount when I mentioned I was looking at ordering some new hubs. It all went down a month or so ago but the guy honored his word and I got the pair for about $290. Nothing too ridiculous but I always wanted a set of them so I figured why not. I have seen them going on ebay for about $350 so I'm happy with the price I paid.

    Well according to what I read in the above posted link, it sounds like the AC's will work just fine with the Stans rims even though they have a rounded profile. Looks like I will just give them a shot first and see what happens.

  10. #10
    viva la v-brakes!
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  11. #11
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    I have AC Valves on my ZTR Alpine Rims. I have had 2 break so far (rear wheel twice), the metal fatigues and "rips" apart. Like the metal "uncoils" LOL.

    I want them to work for me but not looking good
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  12. #12
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    I'd suggest the duke's There large mass of square rubber is much nicer then the stans. it sits in the rim channel much nicer then the stans do.
    And even though the blue doesn't match the rest of the blue on my bike, its better then red.
    RAH!

  13. #13
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    i got some duke valves already. they look great. i ordered black ones. will test them in summer.

  14. #14
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    I got the AC ones today. Really nice and light

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRoNeTiK View Post
    I have AC Valves on my ZTR Alpine Rims. I have had 2 break so far (rear wheel twice), the metal fatigues and "rips" apart. Like the metal "uncoils" LOL.
    How do you manage to break them, was it using a foot pump or a hand pump? that's the only way I could imagine.
    Last edited by doccoraje; 04-14-2012 at 01:48 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRoNeTiK View Post
    I have AC Valves on my ZTR Alpine Rims. I have had 2 break so far (rear wheel twice), the metal fatigues and "rips" apart. Like the metal "uncoils" LOL.

    I want them to work for me but not looking good
    How did you break them? maybe over tighten? Do you have pictures?


    It's a cool update. Where's the cheapest place to buy them?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    It's a cool update. Where's the cheapest place to buy them?
    I ordered mines at Outside Outfitters - Marmot Tents, Osprey Backpacks, BMC Bikes, Niner Bikes, and more! (thanks to 2002maniac) they were cheaper than ebay.

  18. #18
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    thanks doccoraje will check out.

  19. #19
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    Here they are!


    Already installed on ZTR Alpine rims, 6 gram


    I had to bend the edge of the valve where it sits on the rim for a better siting and conformance...
    I hope they dont break!

  20. #20
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    I wouldn't use bent valves to save mere 7.8g/pair.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    I had to bend the edge of the valve where it sits on the rim for a better siting and conformance...
    I hope they dont break!
    I'm looking at the package that was posted and did you use that block of rubber that is above the O-ring and below the nut? Isn't that suppose to be on the outside under the nut? I don't see it in your picture.

  22. #22
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    I just received mine today also. 6.8 gr without caps.
    Sergio, some questions, why did you have to bend them, wasn't the rubber donut enough to conform to the rim shape? Also, any reason for not using the plastic washer?

  23. #23
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    No problems to report using the AC valves with stans arch. They sealed up just fine with a slightly squished o-ring. no bending required.

  24. #24
    STS
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    I don't recomend these aluminum valves
    I bought a pair, I was very carefull for not bending it when inflating, but anyway one of them broke WHILE RIDING, all the air out in 2 seconds. surely it was already damaged.
    it was at low speed when going over a rock, at high speed it would have been a disaster

  25. #25
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    I got 3.7g per valve, 6.3g for the stans.

    On 355 29er rim in the front and 29er arch in the rear.

    Got both tires to mount and seat on the bead. Problem was neither wanted to hold air around valve stem. The black nut above rim and rubber donut below. Assumed they would seal for the ride I was about to go on.

    Wrong............. rolled a rim off the front, tried using hand pump, no dice, tried using C02 got it to sit on the rim but just kept losing air around valve. For the record was riding Ignitor in the front, Saguro in the rear. The Saguro held air with the valve and ghetto juice for the remainder of the ride.

    I still have faith in these, but for whatever reason they didn't seal up as easy as the Stan's valve.

    Going to either use latex caulk to seal around valve hole and/or try taking that black spacer out from between rim and nut.
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  26. #26
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    Well mine showed up yesterday and I must say they look pretty sweet. A little bit darker red than I expected but other than that they look pretty good.

    This morning before leaving for work I put one of them thru my new Crest rim. I can see where I will have to crank down on the nut a bit to get the o-ring to create a seal at the rim. Granted the rims are built yet so there is no yellow tape on them yet. None the less, I can see where tightening down the nut could put some stress on the aluminum valve and potentially break it. I can also see where the o-ring might not be enough give you a good seal which makes the Dukes, Fulcrum, Caffelatex, Stans, a better design. With the rim itself being concave where the o-ring comes in contact with it really doesn't seem like that great of a design. I would thing that something more cone shape or tapered would work better. At this point, I still have time to get my hands on another set of valves and am leaning in that direction. I really don't want to waste my time getting the tire on the rim w/ sealant and all that crap only to pull it back apart to change the valves out because I couldn't get them to seal.

    I would think that you would want to use the little spacer/washer between the rim and nut as this provides a flat surface for the nut to sit on.

  27. #27
    STS
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    After breaking one of this valves (beeing careful with them) I only hope somone make them in titanium, that would be light and strong

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GFisher2001 View Post
    I got 3.7g per valve, 6.3g for the stans.

    On 355 29er rim in the front and 29er arch in the rear.

    Got both tires to mount and seat on the bead. Problem was neither wanted to hold air around valve stem. The black nut above rim and rubber donut below. Assumed they would seal for the ride I was about to go on.

    Wrong............. rolled a rim off the front, tried using hand pump, no dice, tried using C02 got it to sit on the rim but just kept losing air around valve. For the record was riding Ignitor in the front, Saguro in the rear. The Saguro held air with the valve and ghetto juice for the remainder of the ride.

    I still have faith in these, but for whatever reason they didn't seal up as easy as the Stan's valve.

    Going to either use latex caulk to seal around valve hole and/or try taking that black spacer out from between rim and nut.
    what valve brand are you talking about? as i said, american classic aluminium valves are no good, specially with rims which are not flat inside like stan's rims.

  29. #29
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    American classic tubeless rims use this alu valves right? Are they breaking that easily?

    I don't use the plastic spacer because I'm a weight weenie, and I think it's not necessary.

    Well I've ridden the bike 2 or 3 times with this setup and no problems and no air loss in the valve...

    I've bent the edges of the valve, but one can also grind down a bit on both sides to make valve sink well in the rubber o-ring and in the rim profile. Can you picture this?

  30. #30
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    btw the guys that break this valves tell me how do you break them? And post pictures.

    thanks

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaLoL View Post
    what valve brand are you talking about? as i said, american classic aluminium valves are no good, specially with rims which are not flat inside like stan's rims.
    I know Stan's makes two different valves for different rim profiles. I have used both, with success, in Arch and 355 rims, never any problems.

    These AC seem to be giving me some trouble. Rode yesterday for 2 hours and the valves (AC) held fine, (after an initial loss of air in my driveway) I was constantly on the lookout for rolling a tire though.

    At this point I truly wonder if my Ghetto Tubeless Brew is somewhat to blame. I always had great success with the Stan's. It worked in all tires on all of my NoTubes rims.

    I may need to alter my Tubeless brew or scrap that whole idea and just pony up the funds for some real Stan's.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    American classic tubeless rims use this alu valves right? Are they breaking that easily?

    I don't use the plastic spacer because I'm a weight weenie, and I think it's not necessary.

    Well I've ridden the bike 2 or 3 times with this setup and no problems and no air loss in the valve...

    I've bent the edges of the valve, but one can also grind down a bit on both sides to make valve sink well in the rubber o-ring and in the rim profile. Can you picture this?
    What rims are you using this on?

    Can you post pictures of your ground down valves? Sounds like there mounted and would be a PITA.
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  33. #33
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    They're installed on ZTR ALPINE rims as I said.

    They're not ground down, just a little bent up on the sides more or less parallel, where it sits on the rim. I don't have pictures of this work and my paint skills are bad.


    Still waiting for the pictures and trying to figure how you damage the valves.. Are you hitting on them?
    If they got damaged with no external intervention maybe they have a defect, ask for a replacement.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    How do you manage to break them, was it using a foot pump or a hand pump? that's the only way I could imagine.
    Floor pump, the red metal part with "Grooves" on them unraveled/broke enough so that the shiny silver valve part popped out of the red piece.

    AC replaced them, their customer service was great btw
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  35. #35
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    You crushed the internal thread with the valve core. Over tighten?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje View Post
    I just received mine today also. 6.8 gr without caps.
    Sergio, some questions, why did you have to bend them, wasn't the rubber donut enough to conform to the rim shape? Also, any reason for not using the plastic washer?
    I have mine with ZTR Alpines and didn't have to modify them in anyway, just FYI
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    How did you break them? maybe over tighten? Do you have pictures?


    It's a cool update. Where's the cheapest place to buy them?



    Red part unraveled/broke off too much so the groves on the shiny metal valve part could not longer screw into the red part

    P.S. Sorry for the crappy photos, camera phone
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  38. #38
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    Thanks for the photos.
    Over tighten is my diagnosis!
    Aluminium is soft, and we should be careful with tightening, and also the valve core doesn't need a lot of tightening.

    Well good to know that you got new valves for free, and you could install them as is.

    Are you using the AC valves now?

  39. #39
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    That is good to know. I am still debating as to whether or not I am going to run them. I am thinking that if there is an issue with getting the valve to seat against the rim on the inside (the o-ring side) that you could always add an addition/smaller o-ring on top of it. It would allow for better contact with the rim that way and perhaps compress enough to fill any voids between the rim and the larger/stock one.

    The shop that is building my wheels has some Stans valves on hand and I told him to set a pair aside for my wheels. I figure I would rather have a back up just in case. The hell with weight in this case. The last thing I want to be doing out on the trail is dealing with a catastrophic failure at speed or sitting on the side of the trail trying to get a new valve put in. Hell messing with the sealant and crap is a mess to start with.

  40. #40
    STS
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    They're installed on ZTR ALPINE rims as I said.

    They're not ground down, just a little bent up on the sides more or less parallel, where it sits on the rim. I don't have pictures of this work and my paint skills are bad.


    Still waiting for the pictures and trying to figure how you damage the valves.. Are you hitting on them?
    If they got damaged with no external intervention maybe they have a defect, ask for a replacement.
    when I have time I will take pictures
    But I can sure you it was not bent or hitting them, just inflated carefully 4-5 times
    They are the Duke ones, not the AC
    And I mounted them with Alu nut, only by hands, pressing the interior part with my fingers for good seat
    It broke in the middle of a track, thanks to god going slowly over rocks
    I even think the presure of the air when going over rocks broke it, but surely it was already weakened for any reason

  41. #41
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    I think we are adding too much drama here. So far this is an isolated case. I will test duke valves too, i will let you know how they perform, hope i don't get injured. Steel valves have failed in the past too.

  42. #42
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    I'm willing to give Duke a try but they do not respond to my emails about purchasing and at least 2 other dealers charge ridiculous shipping charges! (Shipping charge is costlier than the valves!)

    Has anybody got a few good recommendations where else I can buy these?

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