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  1. #1
    Soy Chingon
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    I want to lighten a Trek 4900

    I want to lighten a Trek 4900 any sugestions

    It's almost all stock except for a new Bontrager seat and Shimano PD-M 545 pedals.

    here are the specs;
    Frame: aluminum
    Fork: Rock Shox Judy C, 3.15"" travel
    Component Group: Mountain Mix
    Geometry: 70.0/74.0
    Top Tube: 22.8""
    Chainstay: 16.9""
    BB Shell Width: Unspecified
    Seatpost Diameter: Unspecified
    Handlebar: Bontrager Crowbar Sport
    Pedals: aluminum ATB
    Saddle: Trek ATB
    Seatpost: Bontrager Sport
    Tires: Bontrager Jones AC
    Weight: Unspecified

    FULL SPECIFICATIONS

    FRAMESET:
    FRAME: Alpha Aluminum. Oversized power tubes. New bi-axial downtube. Wishbone monostay. Replaceable derailleur hanger. Disc mount.
    FORK: RockShox Pilot C, single coil, hydracoil damping, adjustable preload, magnesium lowers, 80mm travel

    WHEELS:
    WHEELS: Bontrager Corvair, welded, machined sidewall rims; Shimano 9-speed rear, alloy quick release front hub; 14G stainless spokes
    TIRES: Bontrager Jones AC, 26x49/54

    COMPONENTS:
    SADDLE: Trek ATB
    SEATPOST: Bontrager Sport
    HANDLEBARS: Bontrager Crowbar Sport
    STEM: Bontrager Sport, 15
    HEADSET: AHS 1-1/8" semi cartridge, sealed

    DRIVETRAIN:
    SHIFTERS: Shimano Alivio
    FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Alivio
    REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore
    CRANKSET: Shimano M-340-8 42/32/22
    CASSETTE: SRAM 5.0 11-32, 8spd

    OTHER:
    BRAKESET: Alloy linear pull
    PEDALS: Alloy cage, clipless adaptable

  2. #2
    JmZ
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    Pretty much the standard stuff...

    All of this will depend on what you are willing to do, and can afford. The thoughts below are general use advice, and may not work for your particular case depending on how much you weigh, or how abusive you ride. As with all free advice, it is worth what you paid for it.

    Hope it helps!

    JmZ


    Quote Originally Posted by gallorody
    I want to lighten a Trek 4900 any sugestions
    It's almost all stock except for a new Bontrager seat and Shimano PD-M 545 pedals.

    here are the specs;
    Frame: aluminum
    FORK: RockShox Pilot C, single coil, hydracoil damping, adjustable preload, magnesium lowers, 80mm travel
    Fork: Rock Shox Judy C, 3.15"" travel

    Wait till the end of the year, or see if there are any blow outs currently. The Judy is not known as a lighweight any more, and the Pilot even less so. Maybe see about one of the Noleens on E-Bay for $100, might be able to lose a pound there. For decent weight, some Maintou Black's, Scarebs, RS Duke's, are worth looking at. Lots of other choices too, but the $$ goes up quickly too.

    BB Shell Width: Unspecified

    Normally a great place for a bike co to hide a VERY heavy part. I would not replace until you relace cranks, or need to replace. At that time I would look for a UN-72 if square taper (XT level about 240g) or spline of appropriate type. (Depends on what crank you get, ask again if/when that comes closer)

    Seatpost Diameter: Unspecified

    Before throwing away the post, and even the handlebar, make sure you weigh them first. There are a lot of really heavy parts in this category, but also a few surprises. Trek System 1 (and I think System 2) were not all that heavy parts. I had a flat System 1 Handlebar as a cheap replacement from the local trek dealer. I was going to spend lots of money to put on a lightweight aluminum bar, but when I took off the Trek Bar... it weighed in at 140, the same as what the lightweight name brand bar was advertised at.

    Handlebar: Bontrager Crowbar Sport

    Pedals: aluminum ATB

    Clipless or clips? If clips think about clipless. Eggbeaters are real easy to learn, not terrible expensive, and most likely less weight than your current pedals. If staying clips, look for some dimension pedals at the local shop, at least one of the dimension models is about 275g, not too bad. I ran them for a very long time.

    Saddle: Trek ATB
    Seatpost: Bontrager Sport
    Tires: Bontrager Jones AC

    Wire or Kevlar? If wire, switch to most anything Kevlar and get a better and lighter tire. Popular ones vary depending on your riding location, style, and tolerance. It is possible to lose a substancial amount of weight here.

    WHEELS:
    WHEELS: Bontrager Corvair, welded, machined sidewall rims; Shimano 9-speed rear, alloy quick release front hub; 14G stainless spokes

    Wheels are another good place to lose some weight. Look at a decent set of lightweight wheels. Again can go crazy expensive or something a bit cheaper. Might want to consider a wheelset that will allow discs in the future if you might want to go that route too. A WTB Disc hubset, pick your favorite 450g rim, and Double butted spokes would be a decent place. Or change the hubs for some XT (non Disc) for regular rim brakes to keep to a budget.

    TIRES: Bontrager Jones AC, 26x49/54

    STEM: Bontrager Sport, 15

    See above about handlebar and seatpost.


    SHIFTERS: Shimano Alivio
    FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Alivio
    REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore


    These may produce some weigh reduction, but honestly wouldn't bother with 'em until they need replacement. Just ride 'em until they don't feel right anymore and replace with a better part.

    CRANKSET: Shimano M-340-8 42/32/22

    Might be worth to do a replacement here... these are very far down the shimano line. Search around for a set of LX cranks and matching BB. Improve shifting, stiffness and lighter weight.

    CASSETTE: SRAM 5.0 11-32, 8spd

    It is actually pretty light. Keep it. Sram 5.0 is right around the XT 8 speed weight.

    Good luck!
    JmZ

    From one flat land to another.

    Advocate as if your ride depends on it...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    i bought a gary fisher marlin, which is speced at about the same level as your trek, and was in the same boat. i broke my front fork and decided i really wanted to upgrade some other things and make the bike better. i added up how much everything would cost and decided to look for a good deal on a year end bike. i ended up with my fuel for a grand. i say just find a nicer used bike or wait till the end of this model year and upgrade to a whole new ride.

  4. #4
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    Upgrade Path

    I did they following to my 02 Gary Fisher Tassajara (similar to 4900 frame) as parts were worn out or just for better performance. I probably could have bought a new bike, but I liked the Tass frame and most of the parts I did replace were worn out. First, make sure you buy from reputable online store or LBS. Soemtimes, my LBS actually beat the online guys and I didn't have to pay for shipping. Here is what I would recommend and what I did:

    1) 03 Race Face XC cranks w/ ISIS (probably now go w/ XT...about same price)
    2) Duke XC 03 Fork - got this puppy for $180 installed at my LBS
    3) Avid 7 Vbrakes (Pricepoint)
    4) LX Shifter brake combo (nashbar)
    5) Thudbuster - If you ride hardtail, this thing just rules.
    6) XT front and rear derailleurs (Sweet ass deal from LBS again - same price as Jenson, but installed)
    7) Bontrager Mustangs (took of 200 gm off bike and alot stronger than Corvair that came stock. By upgrading rims, you will notice a nice increase in pedal efficiency. Keep the other rims and put slicks on them for road training.
    8) Speeplay frog pedals (got this after one moth of buying bike)

    I did this all over a period of two years and the parts are much lighter (bike before upgrades 28lbs - now 24lbs. And, it handles like a bat outta hell. I will say one thing. I am in the market for a FS ride now since moving to SoCa. The Tassajara was great for the burb of Chicago trail riding. And, if you think you are going to go FS, than forget everything I said and save $$ for a better ride. Have fun!

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