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Thread: Hub weights.

  1. #1
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    Hub weights.

    Thought people would be interested in this. I gathered this data when looking to build a light weight wheeset.

    Weights were pulled from QBP and Universal Cycles site. I only included fast engagement hubs with J-bend spokes. I'm not a fan of proprietary spokes!

    Hub weights.-hubs.jpg

    BTW, my end build was:
    • Stanís Crestís 29, 32 hole (white)
    • DT Swiss 180 hubs, 32 hole front and rear.
    • Sapim CX-Ray bladed spokes (black)
    • DT Swiss Alloy nipples (RED)


    Total weight = 1490 grams

    Not the lightest they could be, but very stiff and strong.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by WalterN View Post
    Thought people would be interested in this. I gathered this data when looking to build a light weight wheeset.

    Weights were pulled from QBP and Universal Cycles site. I only included fast engagement hubs with J-bend spokes. I'm not a fan of proprietary spokes!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    BTW, my end build was:
    • Stanís Crestís 29, 32 hole (white)
    • DT Swiss 180 hubs, 32 hole front and rear.
    • Sapim CX-Ray bladed spokes (black)
    • DT Swiss Alloy nipples (RED)


    Total weight = 1490 grams

    Not the lightest they could be, but very stiff and strong.
    Also you should include true precision stealth hub (heavy, expensive, but good supposedly) and hadley, for the sake of comparison, and also xtr/xt/slx. Aslo phil wood and more lite white industries (these are probably the baddest ass of them all, durablity wise and in easy of service, and they have been around for as loooong time, tried and proven hubs). btw I own the true precision hubs and those are bad ass too, unlimited poe and heavy, you know there is meat inside, these will endure. just by holding them in your hand you know these are badass muddas. imo.

    Imo don't be too concerend about weight in the hubs since its the material/mass at the periphery that matters, not the one in the center, in the center you just want the engagement you want and also the durability/sealing, front hubs don't really matter, these last for like 30 years if maintained. Even the deore shimano ones.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  3. #3
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    also is it steel/ti or alu freehub material, alu is ****, steel is hard but durable (and it rusts but seriously its always oil at the spot so it doesn't really matter anyway), ti is softer than steel but lighter, and much more durable than alu. I would only opt for a hub with either steel frehub or ti, preferably steel. Steel is real. EDIT oh yeah i saw you had the WI in there. sorry...
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  4. #4
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    Kings were the standard I was working off...

    I looked at True Precision, Phil Woods, Hadleys and many others and ruled them out. My rationale was that if they weighed significantly more than Kings, I wasn't interested. I own about 5 wheelsets with King hubs, the oldest of which has been rolling for over 10 years without issue. The only reason I didn't use them on this build was that I wanted to get the bike (SC HighBall) down under 20lbs.

    My requirements were:
    1. No proprietary spokes - I have seen many dudes lose a week of riding from a spoke that couldn't be sourced locally (usually I9's)
    2. Fast engagement - Once you go fast click, you can never go back. This eliminated the Shimano's, America Classics, and others.
    3. Weighed less than Kings - this eliminated Hadleys, I9 Classics, Phil Woods, etc.
    4. No proprietary cassettes - Eliminated Kappius. Awesome hub, but what happens if they go out of business?


    RE: Freehub body material - aluminum is perfectly fine if you are using a SRAM XX cassette or other bonded setup.

    I'll add the other mentioned and re-post the table so others can use the data.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    ...Imo don't be too concerend about weight in the hubs since its the material/mass at the periphery that matters, not the one in the center, in the center you just want the engagement you want and also the durability/sealing, front hubs don't really matter, these last for like 30 years if maintained. Even the deore shimano ones.
    This is the weight weenie forum, so unfortunately, the weight of everything matters, and is the most important factor.
    In the real world that may not be the case, but in here, less grams rule, lol.

    Just look at some of the examples of bike builds in here. You won't find Chis King hubs on many 15 lb. bikes. Even if they are a more reliable choice.

  6. #6
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    Yeah I know. But some things just aint worth compromising with imo. and the rear hub is like the only fun mechanical part, that has moving parts inside it, so its subject to wear.

    What about extralite and tune? I bet these will (at least) last a few trips around the block and will perform exellent outside starbucks. No just kidding but they are light right.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  7. #7
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    What about extralite and tune? I bet these will (at least) last a few trips around the block and will perform exellent outside starbucks. No just kidding but they are light right.[/QUOTE]

    Why weigh more when you don't have to? I can't speak to the Extralites, but I have been racing and training in expert XC for about 10 years on Tune Mig/Mag and King/Kong hubs with absolutely no issues. I have the Tune Singlespeeder rear hub on my SS 29er as well. Bomber. Yes, you can have light and strong as long as you can afford the price of admission; although, they are not much more then a set of the Chris Kings these days with exception to the Tune SS hub rear which was about 680.00 USD a few years ago when I purchased. Hard to beat quality German engineering.
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  8. #8
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    Hope Pro 2 EVO rear hub has a claimed weight of 285, is 310 more accurate? 25gm is not a lot, but in WW terms that's like moon sized. Haven't been able to find a scale pic and mine are already laced.

    Also might be worth including the new I9 torch with claimed weights of 150-155/248-268.

  9. #9
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    FYI I just bought a Hadley QR 32 hole disk front hub it was 192grams. The 15mm axial would be a little less.

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    What about the Paul WORD hubs (I know I am a SS guy)? They claim 280g but I think that is with out the free hub.

  11. #11
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    Hub weights.

    Quote Originally Posted by jbell View Post
    What about the Paul WORD hubs (I know I am a SS guy)? They claim 280g but I think that is with out the free hub.
    The WORD hub does not have/use a freehub. Freewheel, yes. Freehub, no.

    The weight is w/o the freewheel, just as cassette hub weights are w/o the cassette.
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  12. #12
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    Freewheel, correct. That makes much more sence (I knew something felt wrong about that statement). I have a set of Pauls with a White freewheel laced to Stans 355 and a Paul front with a ZTR Flow for the front that I am thinking about using on a new Ti SS with a carbon fork. I want to keep the weight down as much as I can, would these be a good way to go? I am working on the other parts for the weight thing as well (I have never cared too much about weight but am tring something new this time).

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