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  1. #1
    Mulleticious
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    New question here. How do I get it even lighter?

    Built this puppy up from eBay bits - to be as light as possible but on a tight budget.
    It handles like a dream. Current weight is around 22.1 lbs.
    Wondering what I should do to get it a bit lighter - what's the best bang for the $?

    All advice welcome.

    Build is as follows:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How do I get it even lighter?-imgp5620selective_800x600.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    I'd say tires. A pair of 2.2 Ikons will save you 3/4# for ~$120.

  3. #3
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    Chain,cassette, and tires stand out to me

  4. #4
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    You've got almost a 1/2 pound in bar ends - not sure if integral to your riding style or not, but that could be a big win.

    Next would be the chainstay protection which I don't see listed, but a Velcro strip (furry side) weighs almost nothing.

    Finally Al & Ti bolts depending on location.

  5. #5
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    Oh, and you could move to a full carbon saddle if your butt is daring enough.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lupob6 View Post
    Chain,cassette, and tires stand out to me
    Cassette??

  7. #7
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    You've got almost a 1/2 pound in bar ends - not sure if integral to your riding style or not, but that could be a big win.

    Next would be the chainstay protection which I don't see listed, but a Velcro strip (furry side) weighs almost nothing.

    Finally Al & Ti bolts depending on location.
    Hmmm - those bar ends are really useful when mashing up a big hill... but it's an idea.

    That is a velcro chainstay protector - doesn't add very much weight though, like you say.

    Not sure if the bolts are going to be worth it?

  8. #8
    cowbell
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    Those Ergons are carrying some chunk. My wife has them on her bike, but I can't see the point of them on my SS - perhaps it's a difference in riding style?

    The carbon saddle shouldn't be a big deal on an SS, I don't spend much time sitting on mine. Of course, there's not much flat trail where I usually ride either.

    As far as asking if the bolts are going to be worth it, that's for you to decide how much lighter you want the bike. If it's important to you, it's worth it.

    Me, I'm with the couple people who said focus on those tires. You can lose a fair amount of weight there and you'll really be able to feel it.

  9. #9
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    You could replace the Ergon grip/bar end combo with ESI Chunky grips and some light bar ends (MT Zoom, KCNC). It would save you about 120g.

    Mount Zoom » Ultralight Bar Ends 46g Mk2

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    That is a velcro chainstay protector - doesn't add very much weight though, like you say.
    Just to double-check my eyes (and sanity), the photo appears to show a wraparound chainstay protector, made of rubber or foam, with a brand logo on it.

    By Velcro, I literally meant you stick the fuzzy side of a Velcro strip to the chainstay. We're only talking a handful of grammage, but it's cheap to do. That and foam grips (if you're cool with giving up the bar ends) are cheapest bets.

  11. #11
    I like turtles
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    Tires and grips/bar ends.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  12. #12
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    Here are a few inexpensive ideas.

    Ditch the Ergons unless you absolutely love them. Ritchey WCS barends and grips would weigh half as much as you currently have. If you really love bar ends you could buy Extralite Cyberends but they cost a fortune.
    The bar and stem are heavy. You can get a Syntace stem for $50 and it weighs 100 or less grams in your size.
    The saddle is heavy but if you like it keep it.
    Switch the post to Rotor aluminum, $100 and save about 50 grams.
    Lighter chain when you wear this one out.

  13. #13
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Just to double-check my eyes (and sanity), the photo appears to show a wraparound chainstay protector, made of rubber or foam, with a brand logo on it.

    By Velcro, I literally meant you stick the fuzzy side of a Velcro strip to the chainstay. We're only talking a handful of grammage, but it's cheap to do. That and foam grips (if you're cool with giving up the bar ends) are cheapest bets.
    Aha! apologies. This one is wrap around but stays in place with Velcro. Will look out for your stick on version...

    I'd say tires. A pair of 2.2 Ikons will save you 3/4# for ~$120.
    I realise the tyres are heavy. But where I ride we have hawthorn, blackthorn and flints. Running tubeless is imperative. We have destroyed so many tyres, but found that the Nobby Nic snakeskin TL-ready almost lasts long enough to wear out. A lighter tyre probably won't pass the durability test. What about Racing Ralph snakeskin TL-ready though - they are lighter but do you think they are as tough?

    Thanks for the other ideas. I felt I needed the bar ends but could try riding without for a while. The stem is a possibility, although I think this carbon one looks really cool.

  14. #14
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    My 2X10 SIR9, currently at 8416gms. (Slightly different from the photos as I have replaced those tires, upgraded to 10 speed & carbon saddle)



    You may want to try out CX tires (300+ gms each) if you're on a shoestring budget.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireSpitter View Post
    My 2X10 SIR9, currently at 8416gms. (Slightly different from the photos as I have replaced those tires, upgraded to 10 speed & carbon saddle)



    You may want to try out CX tires (300+ gms each) if you're on a shoestring budget.
    That's a really nice backdrop - whereabouts is that?

  16. #16
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    foam grips cost $5

  17. #17
    Big Boy
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    The maxxis ikon with the exo sidewall are (IMO) as strong as the SS version from Schwalbe. Also, is it necessary to have a chainstay protector on a SS? I didnt think there was enough slack for the chain to hit.
    -It's time to shred some mild to moderate gnar!!

  18. #18
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    Money! Is the answer to the Question, How do I get it even lighter? My newest build is a Niner RDO Full Suspension that should be a tad under 17lbs with a 1x10 and Lefty but the retail price would be around $18,000. It costs a lot to do it but trust me after beating the crap out of my 13.9lb. SS Niner A9C for over 2 years there is NO going back.

    BTW, Great Bike!!! Steel IS Real! I'm gonna build up the New version of the SIR next.
    I got some pretty decent Niners!

  19. #19
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasnavy05 View Post
    The maxxis ikon with the exo sidewall are (IMO) as strong as the SS version from Schwalbe. Also, is it necessary to have a chainstay protector on a SS? I didnt think there was enough slack for the chain to hit.
    Hmmm - food for thought about the ikons.

    I have the chainstay protector to reduce wear from my heel which occasionally rubs the back of the chainstay - the paint on these SIR9's is absolutely sh!te, so soft and comes off easily.

  20. #20
    Always Learning
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    Built this puppy up from eBay bits - to be as light as possible but on a tight budget.
    It handles like a dream. Current weight is around 22.1 lbs.
    Wondering what I should do to get it a bit lighter - what's the best bang for the $?

    All advice welcome.

    Build is as follows:
    Sure you can do it, but you never mentioned your true motivation for cutting weight. Your comment that says "It handles like a dream" sums it up. Why mess with a dream (assuming it is a nice dream)?

    #1. Alligator Serrated Rotors at 160mm weigh only 92g each. They are only about $15.98 per side (can order from PricePoint). Assuming those are 160mm's on your bike, that would save you 102g (.22 lbs). $32 plus shipping.

    #2. I like the Nobby Nic up front and for your description of conditions. In spite of the weight, the Nics roll really fast with the center knobs rubber compound. You might want to go to a Snakeskin Racing Ralph 2.25 or Rocket Ron in the rear or the Ikon 2.2, but the Ikon with EXO will be lighter around 580g. The Ralph SS 2.25 weighs around 650g (even though claimed weight is 605g) and the Ron SS 2.25 - when it comes out - has a claimed weight of 605g. If you went to the Ikon 2.2 with the EXO, you would save 143g (.315 lbs). $70-80 includes shipping. Maybe even less if you score one on the 29"er tire swap thread.

    #3. Your sealant is listed as 190g. You really can get away with 2 ounces (or a little less) in each tire which should total 114g (56.69g per tire). That would save you 76g (.167 lbs).

    #4. Nothing wrong with bar ends, but do you really need the Ergon grip/bar end combo? Do you really need bar ends at all? If you don't need them or the flat paddle Ergon grip - why not just a foam grip or ESI grips? If you dropped the 220g Ergon grips to some nice Bontrager Race X Foam grips which have a claimed weight of 28g (mine always come in under that weight around 18-22g), that would save you 192g (.42 lbs) and they cost $9.99 from Bontrager plus shipping.

    All 4 steps above have the potential to cut 1.122 pounds off your total bike weight bringing your bike weight down to 21.03 for around $130 - 140.

    Then you ask the question - "Is that really going to turn my whirlybird Weight Weenie hat and improve my riding and enjoyment of the Niner SIR 9?"

    If you like your tires, your grips and the way the bike feels at 22 and change - why bother? What's in it for you in terms of performance benefits if you lose what feels good for you right now?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by roaringboy View Post
    That's a really nice backdrop - whereabouts is that?
    On the left is the Singapore Indoor Stadium and the right are some apartments in Tanjong Rhu.

  22. #22
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    Tyres - you can shave 100-200 grams using lighter tyres.

    Carbon rotors

  23. #23
    Gor'n Ridin'!
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    Just tires, assuming you are dead set on keeping the steel frame vs switching to alloy or CF which would certainly get you down into the teens in weight,

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambassadorhawg View Post
    Just tires, assuming you are dead set on keeping the steel frame vs switching to alloy or CF which would certainly get you down into the teens in weight,
    Thanks hawg - I'm enjoying the steel though, which is good for my back... Compliance etc.

    Gonna try lighter tyres, and have already binned those bar ends, although I'm missin 'em!

  25. #25
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    If you really want to get lighter, start chopping body parts off your self.

    If your not circumcised yet thats a start, then you could take a hand or a foot off.....
    Dont ever let the truth get in the way of a funny story....

  26. #26
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    ^ Hilarious Tone's!

    My rig has bar ends. I really can't live w/o them so I'd like to suggest this combo (grips/bar ends) if you really want to keep a set:

    *ESI Racers Edge foam grips- 50 grams per set
    *Edge bar ends- 50 grams per set

    These are what I use together. I understand that there are grips and bar ends that are even lighter so you may want to research this.

  27. #27
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone's View Post
    If you really want to get lighter, start chopping body parts off your self.

    If your not circumcised yet thats a start, then you could take a hand or a foot off.....
    ...as long as I don't need to cut my mullet off...

    My rig has bar ends. I really can't live w/o them so I'd like to suggest this combo (grips/bar ends) if you really want to keep a set:

    *ESI Racers Edge foam grips- 50 grams per set
    *Edge bar ends- 50 grams per set

    These are what I use together. I understand that there are grips and bar ends that are even lighter so you may want to research this.
    Will check it out...

  28. #28
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    Ritchey WCS bar ends and foam grips are lighter and inexpensive. They're both worth a try.

  29. #29
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    There has been a lot of discussion about the chainstay protector. Since the bike is a single speed, why have a chainstay protector at all? That would be the lightest and cheapest solution of all, and you don't really have to worry about chain slap with SS.

    I would also suggest a lighter seat. After wheels, a lightweight seat is a good area to lighten. The seat is far from the center of gravity of the bike and far from the ground, so it moves a greater distance when the bike is moving over terrain. For example, when you hammer on the pedals, rocking the bike side to side, the seat has to travel the longest distance of any part on your bike (assuming you have a semi-racy position with the handlebar lower than the seat). A lighter seat will save more energy than lightening many other parts of your bike. After all, isn't the point of making a light bike to save energy?

  30. #30
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    The cheapest solution I can find on your rig would be to drop the Bottle and Cage. This should save you about 1.3 lbs (when bottle is full) and only cost you a few minutes of your time.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernVelo View Post
    The cheapest solution I can find on your rig would be to drop the Bottle and Cage. This should save you about 1.3 lbs (when bottle is full) and only cost you a few minutes of your time.
    But then I would need to wear a Camelbak. Any wisdom as to whether the weight is better on your back or on your bike? I have always thought it best to have the lowest centre of gravity possible...

  32. #32
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    Most weight-loss for a buck

    edited

    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    Built this puppy up from eBay bits - to be as light as possible but on a tight budget.
    It handles like a dream. Current weight is around 22.1 lbs.
    Wondering what I should do to get it a bit lighter - what's the best bang for the $?

    All advice welcome.

    Build is as follows:

  33. #33
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Lighter seatpost - lots of options - Woodman makes a pretty damn light post, for how cheaply it can be found.SLR saddle - I've gotten quite a few with careful e-bay shopping for much less than retail. fuzzy Velcro on the stay where your heel hits vs. the protector you have on now.Tires, as others have said, though I'd rather run heavier tires I like and trust than have todeal with less traction/more flatsBrakes and crank, but then you're looking at more money.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  34. #34
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    Switch the seat to a Tioga Spyder (135g) or Specialized Toupe

    I've used the 143mm Toupe with Ti rails on my Specialized Rockhopper HT for AM riding, quite comfortable despite its looks. Although I stand on my pedals probably 70% of the time. Switched to the Tioga D-Spyder when my seatpost and seat both got stolen (locked outside with quick release seat clamp).

    I liked the Toupe more than the D-Spyder, but I would recommend both.

  35. #35
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    For a seat the Tune komm vor, 96 g max, rider weight 90kg. I have this one personaly. I just can not ride longer than 3.5 hrs, I weih 195 just under the max so it might be more comfortable for a lighter rider.

  36. #36
    Mulleticious
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    Thanks for all the advice. Gonna start trying one or two of these mods soon...

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crank Monkey View Post
    Switch the seat to a Tioga Spyder (135g) or Specialized Toupe

    I've used the 143mm Toupe with Ti rails on my Specialized Rockhopper HT for AM riding, quite comfortable despite its looks. Although I stand on my pedals probably 70% of the time. Switched to the Tioga D-Spyder when my seatpost and seat both got stolen (locked outside with quick release seat clamp).

    I liked the Toupe more than the D-Spyder, but I would recommend both.
    I had the Toupe. I'm a heavy rider too (240lbs). It's not bad if you're a regular rider. It can suck if you stop riding for a while and then start back up on a long ride.

    It was used, squeaked like hell at first but went away after I greased the rails. Rails were cromo I think but weighed 183g overall and Thomson Elite post.

  38. #38
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    Resurrecting this thread - took the advice on tyres, seat post, chainstay protector and saddle but...

    ...I couldn't live without the bar ends and paddle grips so I went back to them

    My specific question now is, is there a lightweight paddle grip / bar end combo just like the Ergons which is materially lighter?

    I have done some research and found the following combos which all look like they could do what I want, but there is no information on how light they are:

    SQLabs 711 Stuby
    Whyte bikes ergonomic grip
    XLC GR-G16
    Rose bikes BE-1

    Edit: distributor for the Rose BE-1 emailed me back - they are 287g for the pair which is 62g heavier than my Ergons!

    Further edit: the SQ-lab Stuby 711's are 320g for the pair! At this rate I'll be happily sticking with the Ergons...
    Last edited by BigwheelsRbest; 09-30-2013 at 02:55 AM. Reason: New data

  39. #39
    Mountain Biking Madman
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    How much weight did you lose by doing that?

  40. #40
    Mulleticious
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    Quote Originally Posted by -sparky- View Post
    How much weight did you lose by doing that?
    Around about a pound and a quarter

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