Frame: 6011 hydroformed butted-aluminum mainframe and chainstays, TopSwing magnesium link
Fork:
FOX Talas 140RP24, 140mm/120mm/100mm adjustable travel
Component Highlights:
SRAM X.0 trigger shifters and rear derailleur;
Shimano XT crankset;
Avid Elixir CR brakes;
Bontrager Rhythm Pro Scandium wheels,
XDX 2.4-in. tires,
Race X Lite stem,
Race Lite OS Riser bar,
King Earl seatpost,
Rhythm Pro saddle
Lock on grips are kinda hefty, and i imagine that fork is kinda hefty too. If you are set on bar ends, then you probably could get a straight bar and save a whole bunch there. Could be a good oppurunity to go a lighterweight stem and non OS bar for a few more grams.
Wheels are a common starting point but I dont know enough about yours to comment.
Bar ends are just wrong on a 5.5" travel trail bike with riser bars. Time for you to face facts that you've bought the wrong bike if you want it to be light and have bar ends.
What would you do to a Roscoe III to lighten it up?
Personally, I would ride it until stuff broke. It doesn't need lightening up. If the tyres were not appropriate for my riding, I'd buy new ones. If the saddle was uncomfortable, I'd buy a new one. I'm a big fan of lock-on grips because... they are 100% secure and the weight is worth it to be able to dismantle the bar components to take the fork off for maintenance.
If you really want to get it down to 25lbs, you are going to have to change your approach entirely. You need to weigh every component to understand your options and how to spot the cost-effective changes. Dropping 3 lbs out of the weight may well change the sort of riding you will be able to tackle on the bike... because, for instance, you will be fitting tyres that perhaps compromise performance. That said, you are aiming for a bike 2 and a bit lbs heavier than a certain Ibis Mojo that has been doing the rounds recently.
Comments on your list:
UST Kendas ... UST are heavier than converted normal tyres. UST generally does not save weight with like for like tyre choices. Stans conversion does save weight, but isn't as secure. You have a world of choice of tyres. It doesn't look like you've done the necessary research.
XTR crankset... is ~100g lighter than XT. You save a chunk of weight for a chunk of money but the XT is a great performer.
XTR Fr. deraillieur... waste of money, but not much money.
Easton carbon seatpost... I've got one. It performs well. It gets scratched from height changes. A Thomson keeps its looks better. A Thomson Masterpiece can separate you from a lot of cash and is lighter. There are other options, but many will look out of place on a 5.5" travel bike.
WTB Rocket V Pro Saddle - saddles should be bought primarily because they fit you, but buying a heavy saddle like the WTB means you will not achieve your weight weenie target.
Your post suggests you have some thinking to do as to how you want this bike to end up. Your initial set of proposed changes need reconsidering.
That bike is just about as light as it needs to be if it does come in at that 27.9 lbs. It sounds like that may be a little too much bike for your purposes. What about the Hifi series?
I'd agree that the bike is pretty light already for an all mountain bike. I'd ask yourself why you want it lighter. Durability is a bigger factor usually with that type of bike. Also, i don't think the remote fox lockout will work with that fork (or at least with that damper on that fork)
I would get non UST Kenda Nevegals and convert them, Easton EC70 FR riser bar, Thomson seatpost (way more durable for that application), XTR crank, NO bar ends, do get your lock on grips because they rule, and save some cash up for a hot set of all-mountain wheels (Hope Pro2 with Stan's ZTR Flow rims, for example).
Oh, and I say if it's the right size, keep that RXL stem, since they're pretty darned light for how strong they are, and an OS carbon bar will be strong as well.
It adds up. $/gram is not that bad. Maybe better then upgrading to XTR cranks for example, and look how much people pay for a full XTR group on such bikes.
Ok, so here's the conclusion I've come to after doing my research (thanks to you guys...):
A 25lb XC/Trail MTB probably wouldn't be "reasonable",
especially for as "hard" as I ride.
I might have to give up strength in too many places.
I guess if post build I can get the bike down to stock HiFi weight (just over 27lbs),
but have it be near bulletproof and balanced right with a solid feel, that would be ideal.
I liken it to using a steel roadie for touring and an aluminum/carbon roadie for training.
The steel frame would be much more durable and comfortable and I'd get far more
out of it than I would out of the other two. For it's purpose, it would be right.
So, I guess the 27lb target for a built up Roscoe (including weight adding accessories
like bar ends and a remote fork lockout) would be right.
The HiFi I tested felt light and I wondered how it would take a beating,
but it (a Deluxe) did feel super "tight" (in the best ways)...solid.
So, if I could get a built up Roscoe down to that weight, I should be happy.
Same weight, way more technologically advanced (not that simplicity isn't
a great thing either) and much stronger.
It just depends on the starting point, a sub 25 pound durable FS trail bike is doable. This bike is sitting at 24.9 pounds with no real exotic parts, and I weigh just under 200 pounds "in season". If I put the adjustable travel fork back on it to give it 140mm travel capability, it jumps up to 25.3 pounds.
It just depends on the starting point, a sub 25 pound durable FS trail bike is doable. This bike is sitting at 24.9 pounds with no real exotic parts, and I weigh just under 200 pounds "in season". If I put the adjustable travel fork back on it to give it 140mm travel capability, it jumps up to 25.3 pounds.
I'm confused. Which adjustable travel 140mm fork is only 180g heavier than the SID Team?
I think 27lbs is a sensible target weight for a WW project that is still going to be ridden hard, making full use of 140mm travel. For the type of riding I'm thinking about, 160mm XC brakes wouldn't be sufficient and 2.2 Race King tyres wouldn't be the first choice.
Honestly, this will be the last time I mention the bar ends/riser bar combo ..:madman:
It just depends on the starting point, a sub 25 pound durable FS trail bike is doable. This bike is sitting at 24.9 pounds with no real exotic parts, and I weigh just under 200 pounds "in season". If I put the adjustable travel fork back on it to give it 140mm travel capability, it jumps up to 25.3 pounds.
Taking those 300g and adding in the 700g tyres (I'm more suggesting that the class of tyre, rather than any specific tire) the OP wants to run rather than the 480g of some Race Kings and we've added back 1.6 lbs compared to rockyuphill's build. The Thor gives you direct mounting for 180mm disk rotors, so the brake upgrade would be pretty much limited to the difference in rotor weights compared to rockyuphill's.
I think where the OP has got to is sensible. Adding 1.6lbs to rockyuphill's build gives us a 26.6lb build based on full XTR, but with tyre and fork choices that won't be limiting.
That said, in this month's MBUK group test of trail suspension forks, the Thor is marked down for a number of reasons. They particularly mention it having a very narrow sweet spot between small bump suppleness and big hit/brake dive handling and fiddly travel adjust controls. Their weight of 1908g probably included the remote.
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