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  1. #1
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    Help with weight loss? And a dual weight loss stratgy.

    I am not much of a weight wienie but, I have been thinking about a few upgrades to save weight. I have an 06 rush lefty and want to trim a few pounds off the bike. My dual strategy is to allow my self to spend say $75 on the bike for every pound I loose. Whats the point of spending $80 to save a quarter pound if I need to loose 10-15 pounds myself?
    Before I buy a tire I need to loose my own spare.
    The wheels are a nonstarter as is the hub since I just bought some Stan's flow and a 529 hub. I am looking for the most bang for my buck and am open to suggestions. The tires are in need of an upgrade and I am planning on going tubeless. Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    weigh what you have for each part put it all in a spreadsheet, then find parts you like and find their weight or put their claimed weight +3% into a spreadsheet and their cost.

    Make a formula which finds the weight savings, so old weight minus new weight then divide the cost by the weight difference, drag the formula down the column and add in the details for each part on the bike. This should give you the dollars per gram, I personally work on $2 a gram for sprung weight, $3 for unsprung weight and $4 for rotational weight per gram is justifiable for an upgrade.

  3. #3
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    The spread sheet is a good idea, thank you. Sprung weight? the wheels are both sprung and rotational as are the sprockets, do you count the crank as unsrpung or rotational?
    2+3+4=9/3=3 average per gram or $1,362 for a pound If I want to save 10lbs (not realistic with my bike) I can buy a heck of a bike that meets that goal. I may upgrade for the 2015 season for now I am more looking at the cheap stuff light tubes, grips, a carbon handle bar, seat post, seat etc. I am not looking to save 80 grams on my brake levers for $240.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by hedonistic View Post
    The spread sheet is a good idea, thank you. Sprung weight? the wheels are both sprung and rotational as are the sprockets, do you count the crank as unsrpung or rotational?
    2+3+4=9/3=3 average per gram or $1,362 for a pound If I want to save 10lbs (not realistic with my bike) I can buy a heck of a bike that meets that goal. I may upgrade for the 2015 season for now I am more looking at the cheap stuff light tubes, grips, a carbon handle bar, seat post, seat etc. I am not looking to save 80 grams on my brake levers for $240.
    Rotational is obviously wheels. Unsprung is the weight of things like the fork lowers, front wheel, skewers, on a FS bike rear wheel disc rotors etc, the lighter all this is the more responsive your fork/shock will be. Then sprung weight is the frame and drive train controls etc. It's least important. If you do long rides I find a light fork is great as it helps with manoeuvring the front of the bike around.

    I'm not saying pay that amount for your weight savings. I'm just saying that's my max amount. On a heavy bike it is quite easy to save weight at $0.50 a gram. Say you have bars that are 300 grams and you move to some mount zoom bars at 120 grams for $120. Then that is $0.66 a gram. But you may find after doing the spreadsheet that it will be cheaper to change seatpost and pedals over bars based on the $1 per gram ratio.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the clarification. I have some ideas now and I am leaning more towards a carbon frame fezzari than trying to make a heavy xc a light am.

  6. #6
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    don't forget trade value, you can sell those 300g bars for $20, reducing your $/g a little.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by shupack View Post
    don't forget trade value, you can sell those 300g bars for $20, reducing your $/g a little.
    Someone will buy them? Why?

  8. #8
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    because theirs is even heavier (or even bent) and you're selling them cheap. It's amazing what people will buy on CL/ebay. Many people don't care about weight at all, just "ooh, shiny!"

    I sold my 10yo xt front der for $25, it was scrap metal in my eyes....

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