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  1. #1
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    Help me lose some weight!

    I'd like to take some additional weight off of my bike, if I can. I weigh 190 so I need stuff that won't snap on me. My bike is an Ibis Silk Ti.

    Components:

    Handlebar: Easton EA70 (don't want to use the EA90 because I like bar ends)
    Stem: Ritchey WCS
    Grips: Ritchey foam
    Bar Ends: Can't remember the name, but they weigh 70 g for the pair
    Headset: King
    Brake levers: Paul's Love levers
    Brakes: Paul's Motolight
    Fork: Fox Float RLT80 (heavier than SID, but I like it a lot more)
    Wheels: Mavic Crossmax SL
    Pedals: Crank Bros Twin Ti (can't use triple cause of my weight)
    Saddle: Selle Italia Flight Ti
    Seatpost: Thompson Elite (cut down)
    Cranks: Race Face Next
    Bottom Bracket: American Classic
    Chain Rings: Race Face
    Shifters: SRAM X.0
    Rear derail: SRAM X.0
    Front derail: Shimano XT
    Cassette: XTR
    Chain: XTR
    Tires: Michelin Comp S rear, WTB DNA (I think) up front. Both are UST.

    I realize the most obvious way I can lose some weight is to either run a normal lightweight tire/tube combo or use Stan's w/ a lighter weight tire. However, I'd like to see if there are other areas I can drop a little weight in first. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Craig T

  2. #2
    I love Pisgah
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    Those chainrings are heavy. So is that saddle at 235 gms. An SLR will save 100gms right there. Post is still relatively heavy, as much as I like Thomson posts.

    The tires scream for attention tho. heeeeeeavy. You could lose a ton of weight at THE most important location here by going to std tires and a Stans/Eclipse system. ..."Luke, give in to the force"....You' feel it right off.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig T
    I'd like to take some additional weight off of my bike, if I can. I weigh 190 so I need stuff that won't snap on me. My bike is an Ibis Silk Ti.

    Components:

    Handlebar: Easton EA70 (don't want to use the EA90 because I like bar ends)
    Stem: Ritchey WCS
    Grips: Ritchey foam
    Bar Ends: Can't remember the name, but they weigh 70 g for the pair
    Headset: King
    Brake levers: Paul's Love levers
    Brakes: Paul's Motolight
    Fork: Fox Float RLT80 (heavier than SID, but I like it a lot more)
    Wheels: Mavic Crossmax SL
    Pedals: Crank Bros Twin Ti (can't use triple cause of my weight)
    Saddle: Selle Italia Flight Ti
    Seatpost: Thompson Elite (cut down)
    Cranks: Race Face Next
    Bottom Bracket: American Classic
    Chain Rings: Race Face
    Shifters: SRAM X.0
    Rear derail: SRAM X.0
    Front derail: Shimano XT
    Cassette: XTR
    Chain: XTR
    Tires: Michelin Comp S rear, WTB DNA (I think) up front. Both are UST.

    I realize the most obvious way I can lose some weight is to either run a normal lightweight tire/tube combo or use Stan's w/ a lighter weight tire. However, I'd like to see if there are other areas I can drop a little weight in first. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Craig T

    If weight is your only concern then you need to loose those heavy tires, take out the tubeless rim tape from wheelset, get kenda's lite semislick tires that weigh 345g each and performance lunar light tubes that weigh 60g each. Those tires you have got to be around 800g each .The setup will be OK on hardpack XC with small hills. Once you go technical descents and climbs you will spin out and get snake bites on rock gardens. All from experience.Kenda sidewalls are extremely thin but weight is confirmed on scale ,so is tubes.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duckman
    Those chainrings are heavy. So is that saddle at 235 gms. An SLR will save 100gms right there. Post is still relatively heavy, as much as I like Thomson posts.

    The tires scream for attention tho. heeeeeeavy. You could lose a ton of weight at THE most important location here by going to std tires and a Stans/Eclipse system. ..."Luke, give in to the force"....You' feel it right off.
    Thanks for the info. What chainrings would you recommend? I've read here that sugino supershifter IIIs are light-and work well-but I haven't been able to find any for sale. Also, what post would you recommend?

    Thanks,
    Craig T

  5. #5
    Maromero
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    Low weight post

    How do you like this for a weight reduction Extralite the post UL 27.2 360 mm, claimed 168 gr, my previous Thomson 410 mm 280 gr.
    I almost forgot to mention, without the plastic rods 152 gr.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Get your freak on!
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    Ditto on the ZTires and the Seat reccomendations.
    Also, those tirchey foam grips run about 30grams more then Titec pork grings. But they sure are comfy

  7. #7
    w00t
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    Quote Originally Posted by doccoraje
    How do you like this for a weight reduction Extralite the post UL 27.2 360 mm, claimed 168 gr, my previous Thomson 410 mm 280 gr.
    I almost forgot to mention, without the plastic rods 152 gr.
    where did you get that seatpost?

  8. #8
    Maromero
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    Quote Originally Posted by extensive
    where did you get that seatpost?
    Light-bikes, a bargain with Dirtboy.

  9. #9
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    Second the earlier comment on Titec foam grips. Mine with end plugs toped the scales at 18 grams.

    I previously ran a Thompson elite setback post. Saved approx 100g switching to a USE Alien carbon post. Thompson posts hold their value well. If you already have one easy to sell on. I went for a 25mm post and shimed it to fit my 30.9 Spec frame. No problems - fit and forget.

    Also second the earlier comment on the saddle - I run an SLR. No comfort problems. Fit and forget.

    Have you looked into getting a Extralite seatpost clamp. The Ultraclamp is lots extra for the same clamp only with a Ti bolt instead of steel. Get a Ti bolt from anyone but Extralite.

    Have you considered an Easton EC90 SL bar - not sure if you can run bar ends on it though.

    USE do a Ring-Go-Star this replaces the star nut and saves weight.

    Al bolt tuning is good value for money. Shifter and brake bar mounts. Cable bolts on deraillers. front derailler frame mount. Ti bolts offer less weight loss per buck spent.

    Dusted74 do a very well priced bolt on skewer.

    Xpedo do a 198g mtb pedal Ti/Ti (not sure the weight limit) for under $200

    I run a DA 11-23 cassette and DA chain (shortened to 100 links). When the chain needs replacing I will get a PC89-R hollowpin.

    DA 11-23 cassette will save you 100g over XTR and likely cheaper too. 11-23 works out that you lose the top 2 largest cogs off a 11-32 XTR cassette. I find I can climb most things in the middle ring and 23 rear. Only on extended climbs do I need the granny.

    A 11-23 cassette also allows you to run a shorter chain.

    A DA7800 rear mech will be lighter and cheaper. The 10 speed model works fine with 9 speed shifters. Will cope with mud too. The shorter cage also allows for a shorter chain.

  10. #10
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    instead of running the DA cassette keep your mtb one and only run two rings up front. you lose the weight of the granny ring, can run a narrower bb and so lose a few grams there plus it's better for your knees.

  11. #11
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    a light granny ring weighs approx. 20g.

    the DA cassette saves 100g on an XTR cassette.

    more when you factor in the shorter chain. Each link on a chain is approx 2.5g.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tippster
    a light granny ring weighs approx. 20g.

    the DA cassette saves 100g on an XTR cassette.

    more when you factor in the shorter chain. Each link on a chain is approx 2.5g.
    Unless you live in the flatlands or have some serious leg power, an 11-23 or 12-23 doesn't leave you much granny. A 12-27 with a 20t granny chainring will give most people enough granny, although it'd be a tad heavier than the 12-23. But either way you're right, a roadie cassette will save more weight than a 2x9 and leave you with more granny range.

    But your cranks have to be a 5 bolt compact pattern, or your better off leaving the MTB cassette on there, cuz you won't be able to run a 20t chainring otherwise.

    BTW: I was in my LBS the other day and saw some Vuelta alloy rings that are ramped and pinned. Looked light and promising with a nice black finish. Cost about $35 for a 42t, $32 for a 32 t. I may pick one up to try it.
    If you want to play with electricity, more power to ya......

  13. #13
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    I'm running an XT crankset 44/32/22 with DA 11-23 cassette.

    My bike weighs 18lbs (8.15Kg) and I weigh 75kg.

    I've riden lots of steep and long hills in the middle ring.

    I'm perhaps strange in that I enjoy the challenge a hill offers, the steaper the better.


    I'm not super fit, but I would say I'm in fairly good condition.

    The only hills I can't climb with a 22 granny and 23 cassette would be ones where I couldn't get enough traction or where, despite leaning forward and getting my chest down to the stem to change my centre of gravity, the front wheel pops up.

    If you disagree with me (and I was sceptical too!) try not using the top 2 cogs on your XTR or XT cassette. The third one down is likely to be 23 teeth (70% certain - but check for yourself). Then throw yourself at a very steep and long hill, in the granny ring.

    I really wouldn't go back to an XTR or XT cassette now. I needed the 11T on my cassette as I do 150 road miles a week on my MTB.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tippster
    I'm running an XT crankset 44/32/22 with DA 11-23 cassette.

    My bike weighs 18lbs (8.15Kg) and I weigh 75kg.

    I've riden lots of steep and long hills in the middle ring.

    I'm perhaps strange in that I enjoy the challenge a hill offers, the steaper the better.


    I'm not super fit, but I would say I'm in fairly good condition.

    The only hills I can't climb with a 22 granny and 23 cassette would be ones where I couldn't get enough traction or where, despite leaning forward and getting my chest down to the stem to change my centre of gravity, the front wheel pops up.

    If you disagree with me (and I was sceptical too!) try not using the top 2 cogs on your XTR or XT cassette. The third one down is likely to be 23 teeth (70% certain - but check for yourself). Then throw yourself at a very steep and long hill, in the granny ring.

    I really wouldn't go back to an XTR or XT cassette now. I needed the 11T on my cassette as I do 150 road miles a week on my MTB.
    I don't doubt you. I went riding with a friend the other day, and while I'm chugging up the hill on the granny ring, he's cruising up on his middle chain ring. It ticked me off, the nerve.... . You just have to have the power to to do it, and I'm trying to develop that.

    BTW: I'm using a 12-27 right now, and I doubt that I would go back to an MTB cassette either.
    If you want to play with electricity, more power to ya......

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