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  1. #1
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    Help Cutting fat Scott Spark RC 2013

    Hello guys,
    I need some suggestions of upgrade to cut some weight of my Spark 2013. Here is the actual config.

    Frame Scott Spark 900 RC 2013
    Wheels Mavic Crossmax SLR 2013
    Rear Tire Schwalbe Racing Ralph 29" SS 2.25
    Front Tire Schwalbe Rocket Ron Snakeskin 29" 2.25
    Tire Selant Stan's Notubes
    Fork Fox 32 F29 100 CTD Fit Remote Fork 2013
    Stem Ritchey WCS C-260 90mm
    Quick Releases Fox (Front) ; Dt Swiss (Rear)
    Cables Shimano
    Headset Ritchey Pro Tapered
    Front Derailleur Shimano XTR FD-M985 E-Type
    Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR RD-M986 Shadow P.
    Seatpost Ritchey WCS 1-BOLT 400mm
    Seatclamp SCOTT superlight Seatclamp
    Cassete Shimano XTR CS-M980-10 11-36T
    Chain KMC X10SL DLC Superlite
    Spacer Scott Carbon
    Front Brake Shimano XTR Trail BR-M988
    Rear Brake Shimano XTR Trail BR-M988
    Front Rotor ASHIMA Ai2 160mm
    Rear Rotor ASHIMA Ai2 160mm
    Handlebar Ritchey Wcs 2x Trail 700mm
    Grips Ritchey Wcs Ergo
    Pedals Crank Brothers Eggbeater 3
    Crankset Shimano XTR M985
    Saddle TIOGA SPYDER TWINTAIL
    Shifters Shimano XTR M980 I-Spec
    BB Shimano BB-91A Press Fit
    Extras Shelter Frame Protective Adhesive Kit Clear
    Twinloc Remote Control Shifter
    Blackburn Camber CF Cage Carbon
    Garmin K-Edge Support

    Ive already changes the Bottle Cage, Stem and Front and Rear Der. bolts all to Titanium.

    Any suggestions ?

    Thanks a lot,

  2. #2
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    -Swap out your brake pads to the ones used in the BR M-985 race brake. Model G01A. About 44 grams savings.
    -XX Cassette in place of XTR. About 75 grams savings.
    -Race Face Next SL or XC 2x10 crankset. About 90-100 grams savings.
    -I assume since you've chosen the snakeskin tires, you need them for durability. If not, the standard casing is about 180 grams lighter for the pair.
    -There are lighter wheelsets available.
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  3. #3
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    What is your budget and target weight? You can loose +/-400g by changing out the wheels.

  4. #4
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    How much does your bike weigh now and what is your goal? Seems like you've got all the light stuff on it already. Losing a few more grams is gonna be expensive.

    *CB EB 11 pedals
    *Thomson Masterpiece seatpost
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  5. #5
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    Some Sram XX brakes or Formula R1s should be lighter than XTR.

    1 x 10 setup or Singlespeed, or blow a ton of money on 1 x 11. Think I read that XX1 saved a pound of weight over XX.

  6. #6
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    I dont want to change the wheels, because it is expensive and i like the SLR set.
    The first priority is to change the seatpost, because mine weight 270g, i can save 100g here with USD 100.00.
    Do you guys recommend me the Thomsom Masterpiece or the KCNC Ti Pro Lite Scandium Seat Post ? The KCNC is 0mm Offset, dont know if its going to be ok with the 90mm Stem that i am using. And thomsom is 20mm Offset.
    Thanks,

  7. #7
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    Are you using the stock Shimano derailleur/brake housing? Might be able to save some grams there by upgrading to higher end housing.
    I'm always looking for new people to ride with. If you are on the Front Range, shoot me a PM and let's go ridin'.

  8. #8
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    I was able to get our customers Scott Spark 900 RC down to 19lbs 11oz.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumaking View Post
    I was able to get our customers Scott Spark 900 RC down to 19lbs 11oz.
    Hello puma, do you know something about Spark 900 2013 incompatibility with Shimano XTR (38T/26T) Crankset ?
    I created a topic here but no solutions appeared

    Spark 2013 and Xtr Incompatibility

    Thanks

  10. #10
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    With 38t no, I've ran 2x10 or 1x10 setups with a 38t up front, even a 38t Q-ring and those are oblong. You shouldn't have a problem with the 38t up front, even with any flexing.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumaking View Post
    With 38t no, I've ran 2x10 or 1x10 setups with a 38t up front, even a 38t Q-ring and those are oblong. You shouldn't have a problem with the 38t up front, even with any flexing.
    Any ideas ? About what is the cause of this problem that i have ?
    The chain is slapping on the frame and its scrathing the frame, i am afraid about crackin it.

  12. #12
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    You can do a really simple mechanics/racers tip. You can wrap that area in electrical to give it a nice buffer. I wouldn't worry too much, if you had deep gouges its one thing, but those little scratches are just messing with the paint.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumaking View Post
    You can do a really simple mechanics/racers tip. You can wrap that area in electrical to give it a nice buffer. I wouldn't worry too much, if you had deep gouges its one thing, but those little scratches are just messing with the paint.
    Wrap it in what ? something like Shelter ?

    Thanks for the help

  14. #14
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    apologies, meant to finish with Electrical tape.

  15. #15
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    I'm surprised you started off with such a big chain ring size, not often people go over 39t for 29ers.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumaking View Post
    I'm surprised you started off with such a big chain ring size, not often people go over 39t for 29ers.
    Hey Puma,

    i discovered something that i didnt realized before.
    I am using a XTR M985-E Front Derailleur, according to Shimano website it is for 40-44T Chainrings.
    I think that the correct one to use is the M985-E2, that according to shimano specs website is for 38T.
    Is it possible that this is the cause of the problem ??

    Thanks,

  17. #17
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    Nope, that would just affect your shifting into the big ring. Since E-type don't offer much adjustability if any, would either rub against the chainring or not be smooth going up. Like previously stated, we think its something else that might of caused that.

  18. #18
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    Do you have the switch on your M986 Shadow Plus RD flipped "on" to eliminate chain slap?
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumaking View Post
    Nope, that would just affect your shifting into the big ring. Since E-type don't offer much adjustability if any, would either rub against the chainring or not be smooth going up. Like previously stated, we think its something else that might of caused that.
    Puma, one last question. The FC-M980 Crankset is from the TRAIL xtr line.
    But the e-type front der. of Trail Xtr is only triple.
    And the FD-M985-E is only for 40-44T according to shimano website.
    So what XTR Front Der. is 100% compatible with this M980 double crankset (38T-26T) and with the Scott Spark 900 RC 2013 ?
    The FD-M985-E2 is for 38T outer ring. But i dont know if this E2-Type is compatible with the Spark 900 RC 2013 frame.

    Thank you very much,

  20. #20
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    If the E-type works on there, the E2-type will work on there just the same. They look and function identically. The only difference is the reach height of the cage as it moves over to place on or pull off the chain from the big ring.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    If the E-type works on there, the E2-type will work on there just the same. They look and function identically. The only difference is the reach height of the cage as it moves over to place on or pull off the chain from the big ring.
    are you sure about that ? i thought that the E2 type mount was different from the e-type version, i thought that the e-type is mounted on the BB, and the e2-type is mounted on the frame.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    If the E-type works on there, the E2-type will work on there just the same. They look and function identically. The only difference is the reach height of the cage as it moves over to place on or pull off the chain from the big ring.
    i think the Spark RC 900 2013 frame dont have the 2 holes that you need to screw the E2 Type on the frame.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by eimart View Post
    i think the Spark RC 900 2013 frame dont have the 2 holes that you need to screw the E2 Type on the frame.
    Then get the BB bracket for the E2. I'm almost positive the actual derailleur body is identical. Type-E can be used as a direct mount also if the BB mounting bracket is removed. In this case, if you cannot find an E2 with the BB mounting bracket attached, buy one separately and attach it yourself.I once bought a type-E with the BB mounting bracket attached only to remove it and use it as a direct mount FD.

    You can call Shimano tech support directly and ask to make certain if you are going to be using an E2.
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  24. #24
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    use the BB mounting bracket from your type-E onto the E2. It should connect exactly the same.

    Here's an E2 with the bracket already attached:

    Shimano XTR M985 E2 MTB Front Derailleur D Mount 2x10 TS DP | eBay
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    use the BB mounting bracket from your type-E onto the E2. It should connect exactly the same.

    Here's an E2 with the bracket already attached:

    Shimano XTR M985 E2 MTB Front Derailleur D Mount 2x10 TS DP | eBay
    Thanks for all the help my friend,

    i was looking at shimano tech about this XTR model.
    and looks like the holes that you use to fix the bb mounting plate on the drraileur are different on M985-e and M985-e2,
    You can see here,
    On M985-e2 the left hole is smaller than the left hole on M985-e

    here:

    http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830721102.pdf

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