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  1. #1
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    Fatlightbike: Quick Lipo!

    Need some quick lipo on my build, the red numbers indicate unchangeable values. It's just some of the smaller components remaining that I would like to save some grams on...

    Seatpost, Saddle, Headset, Handlebar, Chain, Stem...

    On a tight budget ATM to get it build for summer (dec-feb for me) will look at more expensive upgrades later next year.

    I'm in NZ so 'Free International Shipping' locations are good like Wiggle Bike Shop Chainreactioncycles etc

    Anyway's suggestions most welcome
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatlightbike: Quick Lipo!-build.png  


  2. #2
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    Here is a bar option that I went with on my FatBack.
    I just picked up at Bontrager RXL bar for $80.00 from my LBS that uncut at 660mm weighed 123g on my park small part scale. I did have the FSA afterburner riser bar which weighed 223g on my scale.
    So 100g for $80.00. The bar lists for $100.00 if you cannot find it at a discount.

  3. #3
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    I've got a similar bike and built it to be light. Here's my $.02....ignoring the red numbers.

    Use light spokes and alloy nips - DT Swiss Revolutions (save ~50 grams)
    Go tubeless. (Q-tube SL's are the lightest available) (save ~400 grams)
    Carver O'Beast carbon fork (save ~460 grams)
    Alum raceface chainring + alum bbg bashgaurd if you're not already
    Eggbeater or another pedal (save ~140 grams)
    Unless you ride in severe cold, run hydraulic brakes (Hope M4's) (save ~300 grams)
    Run lighter rotors (Alligator/Ashima) instead of Avid's (save ~100 grams)
    Carbon bar (Easton, Enve, etc..) (save ~50 grams)
    Superlight chain (save ~40 grams)

    Running tubeless and switching rotors are the most cost effective.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by smthgfshy View Post
    I've got a similar bike and built it to be light. Here's my $.02....ignoring the red numbers.

    Use light spokes and alloy nips - DT Swiss Revolutions (save ~50 grams)
    Go tubeless. (Q-tube SL's are the lightest available) (save ~400 grams)
    Carver O'Beast carbon fork (save ~460 grams)
    Alum raceface chainring + alum bbg bashgaurd if you're not already
    Eggbeater or another pedal (save ~140 grams)
    Unless you ride in severe cold, run hydraulic brakes (Hope M4's) (save ~300 grams)
    Run lighter rotors (Alligator/Ashima) instead of Avid's (save ~100 grams)
    Carbon bar (Easton, Enve, etc..) (save ~50 grams)
    Superlight chain (save ~40 grams)

    Running tubeless and switching rotors are the most cost effective.
    Thanks, I'm def going to try running them tubeless after a little wearing in and the carver fork is pretty darn light but my bank balance says not till next year

    I've used the BBG's before and was going to put another on, hadn't checked weights on chainrings yet (have a blackspire on my 1x9) Gonna stick with platforms for now as it's nice and cheap and I don't have to buy shoes too.

    What do you think about hydro's on the beach? I was a bit worried about tearing thru some expensive brakes, hence the bb7's.

    Looked at some weights on the rotors which alligators were you suggesting I thought the most I could save was 50g total (104g each for the bb7's and 78g for the motion?)

    Carbon bar would be sweet, might pick it up when I get the new fork $$ permitting.

    Any suggestions on a light corrosion resistant chain? (again with all the beach riding that's going to be done it's a high wear component I didn't wanna splash out too much on.

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    On this theme, what if you really went for it and made a 1x10 drivetrain ww fat bike with high end parts, foam grips, minimalist saddle... How light can you get with these things? I'm guessing the wheels and tires are about 6lbs more than a ww xc bike and then a bit of a penalty with the frame but you can recover that mass back with the rigid fork... so maybe around 24lbs is the limit? Anyone seen one really tuned?
    If you believe that I've got some magic beans to sell ya.

  6. #6
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    I'm just sitting here scratching my head.

  7. #7
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    Those tires... holy smokes. Get rid of them for something lighter.

    Edit: My bad, didn't realize it was a fat bike you're building

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by customfab View Post
    I'm just sitting here scratching my head.
    dh bikes went all ww and so did bmx, why cant fatbikes?
    If you believe that I've got some magic beans to sell ya.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakomonster View Post
    dh bikes went all ww and so did bmx, why cant fatbikes?
    Trying to lighten up a fat bike is like putting a dump truck on a diet.

    But if that's what your into by all means, support our economy.

  10. #10
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    Marge Lites will save you almost a pound off of the wheel set, and ditch the Alfine for a 1x10. You could even run a granny ring only, plus a really small road cassette and a short cage road deraillier.

  11. #11
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    My Pugsley is 32lb,
    Also w/Alfine 8 HuDu, (and Nate UL)
    after all I've done with it, these are the most notable changes.
    47mm rim on front - less than 600g and huge improvement.
    Carver carbon fork.
    not a big fan of tubeless on fatbikes, I love my rims w/holes and covering up the big holes well without adding weight is difficult.

    Grossly overweight but love it anyway - Raceface Diabolus crank - 300g+ heavier than Atlas

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